Talk Me In/Out of the Stihl MS261

[CliffordK]

I’m not aware of 1 box store in PA/DE/NJ/MD that sells Stihl.
That Rural King Store might be a “chain”, but if their focus is farm & ranch supplies, that passes the smell test for me as a legit Stihl dealer, especially if they repair them and offer parts.

I'm not sure about Stihl "dealers" around here, but the saws are literally everywhere.

We have a local building supply store, Jerry's, which had a large Stihl display. All gas.
Right next door, the farm and garden store, Wilco also had Stihl chainsaws including the electric ones.
I went to the logging store, Roberts today, and behind it they had the "saw shop" that appeared to be nothing but Stihl saws.

 

[CliffordK]

I saw this at the local pawn shop a couple of day ago.

 

[Hay Dude]

@Hay Dude, forgive me if you already posted it on the thumb thread, but is the thumb on that loader purchased or home grown? I just bought a new fork and frame for my CUT, and am already turning thoughts toward thumbing it. I move a lot of logs around, and the old chain choker slings on bucket hooks are getting slower and heavier, each year.

That is an HLA single arm log grapple. It’s attached to a separate set of HLA forks. I highly suggest this grapple. It’s really rugged and it does exactly what you want it to do. The also make a double arm log grapple, but I prefer the single. It uses heavy, clamp style cradle to bolt to your forks. The HLA forks are a perfect fit. Other forks may require a little modification.

Agriteer in Leola, PA is an HLA dealer. Great to deal with.

If I were to have a double arm, it would be for a brush grapple. I’m looking at used double arm brush grapples as we speak. Have mountains of brush to move. I may start a thread on suggestions for a medium sized brush grapple.

 

[xyz123]

NGK just put out a bulletin on how to discern a China plug from a real NGK Japan plug and it's quite enlightening. The go into great detail on how to determine that, from the printing on the insulator to the machined ring above the threaded portion to the wire elctrode and how to tell.

back in the day, a plug was a plug. I guess now you can counterfeit just about anything and I knew Torch was a Chinese brand. HF would never use a domestic plug, not that there are any today anyway. Had a buddy that worked at Champion before they sold out to a Chinese firm.

This has nothing to do with counterfeit plugs. That's been known for many years now.

This has to do with REAL NGK plugs are made in China too. If your plugs are not marked made in Japan on plug. It could be a real NGK plug made in China or one of their many other countries they use now days.

 

[WinterDeere]

Thanks @Hay Dude. That HLA setup looks like exactly what I need. I’m 75 minutes east of Leola, not a terrible drive.

 

[Hay Dude]

Thanks @Hay Dude. That HLA setup looks like exactly what I need. I’m 75 minutes east of Leola, not a terrible drive.

Great people to work with.
Grab an HLA catalog. You’ll be broke in no time!
I could own 10 of their attachments!

 

[WinterDeere]

Agriteer in Leola, PA is an HLA dealer. Great to deal with.

Just bought one. Should have it in less than two weeks.

 

[Hay Dude]

Just bought one. Should have it in less than two weeks.

WOW that was quick!
Pallet forks and grapple?

 

[WinterDeere]

WOW that was quick!
Pallet forks and grapple?

Heh... I don't mess around.

I already bought new JDQA FEL forks and frame two days ago, they're on the way now. If I could find a nice 3-point to JDQA adapter, I think I might just totally sell off my old 3-point pallet fork rig.

You may remember I had another thread a few months back, looking to adapt that old 3-piont pallet fork rig to my JDQA, and install a thumb on it. However, the thing was under-rated for my application, and between the 3-point hardware, JDQA hardware, and thumb, it was all getting pretty heavy, not to mention a cumbersome rig. I'm thinking that it's better to adapt JDQA to 3-piont, adding the weight of the adapter to the 3-point, rather than putitng that extra weight out on the loader. My tractor is only a Deere 3-series, not the beasts you run.

 

[WinterDeere]

@Hay Dude, what do you think of trying to use 48” forks with thumb for moving logs? I bought the 48’s because that’s my standard pallet depth, and also the longer forks work better for setting and retrieving pallets from a pickup truck bed. But I anticipate I’ll want some shorter forks for picking logs from piles, with the thumb, as the long ones can probably be a bit more cumbersome at that task.

 

[Hay Dude]

@Hay Dude, what do you think of trying to use 48” forks with thumb for moving logs? I bought the 48’s because that’s my standard pallet depth, and also the longer forks work better for setting and retrieving pallets from a pickup truck bed. But I anticipate I’ll want some shorter forks for picking logs from piles, with the thumb, as the long ones can probably be a bit more cumbersome at that task.

That‘s what I run and they are fine for logs. I think stubby forks are generally better for plunging into log piles, but the 48” forks have too many additional uses I need too much.
I don’t know what your loader can handle. If your loader is smaller, 36” might be better. I think you can choose what forks you match with your frame. They usually have 3,4,5 foot there.

 

[WinterDeere]

Deere 320R loader on a 3033R tractor. I think lift is 2125 lb. at the JDQA pivots, or 1650 lb. 24 inches off the pivots. Extending that math, it's going to be only 1200 lb. lift out at the end of 48" forks, but I suspect my curl force is a bit higher than that, if it's really needed to get a log stabbed up off the ground and rolling back on the forks.

The backstop, forks, and thumb are each 200 lb., so take 600 lb. off that "at the pivots" number, and some fraction of that off the 24" and 48" numbers. I won't be able to lift every log I bring home, but I will be able to lift most of them, and drag the rest!

I use choker chains or tongs on bucket hooks to fetch logs out of my solid-side trailer, lifting them over the side. Short forks with a thumb might make that easier... or I might end up stabbing thru my trailer floor and crushing the side rails with the thumb.

 

[Hay Dude]

I have log lifting tongs like those somewhere. Haven’t used them in about 20 years.

 

[WinterDeere]

I have log lifting tongs like those somewhere. Haven’t used them in about 20 years.

Come back in 20 years. Now that I have "the thumb", I may be able to say that, too!

Actually, the tongs are pretty handy, if you have a bunch of logs in the same range of diameters. I have one pair that's good from about 6" up to maybe 18", and another pair that overlaps them, maybe 12" up to 30". Switching tongs is a PITA, especially handling the big'uns without pinching a finger, but you can get pretty damn good at dangling them just right and picking and dropping logs without ever leaving the seat of the tractor.

I'm just a homeowner, not running any professional logging operation. But it's a very big and very old home, and we use a heck of a lot of wood.

 

[JeepHead]

I have a serious need for a grapple but haven't gotten one yet. I just added a second 2 spool valve to my tractor for rear remotes but may use one of those to control a grapple. We just bought our new place this past summer and it was timbered right before we purchased it. Apparently, the logging company and former owners got into a massive disagreement part ways through the project and the owners forced them out. So now, I have probably over 150 trees laying on the ground and at least that many tree tops. So, I have quite a mess to clean up!

 

[Hay Dude]

I have a serious need for a grapple but haven't gotten one yet. I just added a second 2 spool valve to my tractor for rear remotes but may use one of those to control a grapple. We just bought our new place this past summer and it was timbered right before we purchased it. Apparently, the logging company and former owners got into a massive disagreement part ways through the project and the owners forced them out. So now, I have probably over 150 trees laying on the ground and at least that many tree tops. So, I have quite a mess to clean up!

That’s what I’m cleaning up. Massive tree fall & debris.
I have trucked 35 loads of “stubby” logs and 10 loads of long logs off the property and we’re about 1/2 done.
The brush is in massive piles, but none of it has been chipped or burned.

This is the damage that 110MPH straight line winds do to a property. There were over 100 80’ tall trees here on this 20 acre patch and only about 5 remain, and they are heavily damaged.

There’s another 100 acres of property damage that will just be left for nature to deal with.

 

[JeepHead]

The two saws I picked up this weekend - I had been looking for a Echo 4910 for a bit because Echo discontinued them. They are basically the same exact saw as the pro series 501p with minor differences. The local Echo dealer had a used one that looked to have never been used and sold it to me for 1/2 price. I brought it home and did a muff mod on it, a base gasket delete, and tuned it. It not only sounds wicked but it'll cut right with my other 50cc pro saws.

The Stihl 026 I bought for hardly nothing. It needs a crank seal but that's no biggie. I modded the muffler on it too and picked up loads of power. I haven't gotten around to checking the squish on it yet but will probably do a base delete on it as well. I did buy a new 16" lite 04 bar for it and a new sprocket...

 

[JeepHead]

That’s what I’m cleaning up. Massive tree fall & debris.
I have trucked 35 loads of “stubby” logs and 10 loads of long logs off the property and we’re about 1/2 done.
The brush is in massive piles, but none of it has been chipped or burned.

Oh man, sounds like we're in the same exact boat! The tree tops I have to deal with are out of control. I have no idea how to even manage them. I don't have a clearing to burn anything unless I drag them to my back yard and the girlfriend wouldn't be too happy about that...

 

[Hay Dude]

I’d round up a dozen local Amishmen and tell them to bring chainsaws and meet at your property and start bucking. They’ll work for $20+/hour all you want.

The guys that helped me brought their own Stihl 362’s and went to town while I ran the excavator and cleaned up what they cut/bucked.

Worked out great so far.

 

[JeepHead]

I’d round up a dozen local Amishmen and tell them to bring chainsaws and meet at your property and start bucking. They’ll work for $20+/hour all you want.

The guys that helped me brought their own Stihl 362’s and went to town while I ran the excavator and cleaned up what they cut/bucked.

Worked out great so far.

I have considered talking to some of the local logging companies and see what they will offer me because I have a ton of white and red oak laying on the ground - some that are 30" plus trees. The contract was for $94K worth of timer and I was told they left most of it laying after the argument...

But yeah, I am in the heart of Amish country, they drive right past my house every day in their wagons lol. They do work cheap. They just did a ton of work on my sister's new place and came in over 2/3 cheaper than any other bidders and way over-built, the quality was top notch!