What brand bar do you run?

[crazyal]

I'm getting close to needing to replace the 24" bar on my Dolmar. It looks like it's the same bar as a large Husky saw uses so there should be a world of options. In the past on my Husky I would just get a stock replacement from the big box store. I figured I would see what others use. Is there much of a difference with the higher end ($$$$) brands? I don't really need a light weight bar as the saw seams balanced well to me but I wouldn't rule one out.

 

[ericm979]

I have used Stihl, Husky, Tsumura and Bailey's house brand bars. And a couple others I can't remember now. The Tsumura light weight bar's rails seem to wear slower than the Stihl bars. But it's noticeably whippy. I've not bent it but I'm careful when I'm cutting stuff- I'm not on a time schedule. It's not a huge difference in weight but does make a noticeable change in the balance of the saw. The Stihl white paint tends to look dirty and beat up fast. Husky's grey paint lasts longer.

There's a bunch of different bars from Baileys- laminated, light laminated (holes in the center layer) and also bar made from solid steel (but still a roller nose). The nicer ones have replaceable ends so you just swap in a a new one if the roller dies.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I've been buying Oregon roller nose bars, they have worked fine for me,

SR

 

[5030]

Same here, replaceable sprocket nose with a grease hole. Not a fan of Stihl sprocket nose bars. No grease hole and not a replaceable nose either.

Had a friend lock up a new Stihl roller noose plunge cutting oak. dealer said he overloaded the sprocket, wasn't getting enough bar oil. 44 bucks later, another bar. No mo plunging I guess.


Bailey's has a good selection. Fair prices too.

 

[oosik]

I prefer Oregon Roller Nose.

 

[RandyT]

I'm getting close to needing to replace the 24" bar on my Dolmar. It looks like it's the same bar as a large Husky saw uses so there should be a world of options. In the past on my Husky I would just get a stock replacement from the big box store. I figured I would see what others use. Is there much of a difference with the higher end ($$$$) brands? I don't really need a light weight bar as the saw seams balanced well to me but I wouldn't rule one out.

The larger Husky's and the Dolmar/Makita saws both use the Oregon D009 mount. All the major saw manufacturers use Oregon rebranded bars as OEM.

 

[xyz123]

Tsumara makes a great bar and rails last longer then the Oregon.
GB makes a great bar too and longer lasting rails then the Oregon's too. But got to be sure the Aussie made ones.

Both in same price range too. I buy both depending on the deal I get.

 

[yomax4]

My Stihl bars of late don't seem to last as long as they did 10 years ago. Both rail and bar groove seem to last about half as long. Something has changed.

 

[xyz123]

Here is 24" Tsu in 058 3/8. You didnt mention gage you used. $46 plus shipping. HV2458TSU -HUSKY TSUMURA BAR 24" 3/8'' PITCH .058 GA. 84-DRIVERS *MADE IN JAPAN*

Light weight Tsu in 050 3/8 24" $68 plus shipping HV2450TSULI - HUSKY TSUMURA ULTRA LITE BAR 24" 3/8" PITCH .050 GAUGE 84-DRIVERS *MADE IN JAPAN*

 

[5030]

Don't get too concerned with rail wear. I flip my bars every time I switch loops and when I replace the loops (I run 2 loops per saw), I replace the bar, no exceptions. When I flip any bar I check the rails for wear and burrs and file them as needed. The trick if you will to mitigating bar wear is using a good bar oil and tensioning the chain properly. I keep my bar oilers on the plus side all the time.

 

[Ortimber]

Stihl lightweight bars here. Are they the best? I have no idea but they work great for me.

 

[5030]

My Stihl bars of late don't seem to last as long as they did 10 years ago. Both rail and bar groove seem to last about half as long. Something has changed.

I'm sure. Just like the saws have changed. More plastic, higher price.

 

[yomax4]

Don't get too concerned with rail wear. I flip my bars every time I switch loops and when I replace the loops (I run 2 loops per saw), I replace the bar, no exceptions. When I flip any bar I check the rails for wear and burrs and file them as needed. The trick if you will to mitigating bar wear is using a good bar oil and tensioning the chain properly. I keep my bar oilers on the plus side all the time.

I always flip and file after every chain gets dull. I like CAM2 bar oil and always run oilers at 3/4 or a little more depending on which saw. Tension is a bit variable depending on tightening in the woods or in the shop. Maybe I just expect too much from the bars. I saw on here where people are getting years of bar life and I just don't get that. I do cut about 10-12 cord of hardwoods a year but that goes pretty fast once piled up. Thanks !

 

[yomax4]

Here is 24" Tsu in 058 3/8. You didnt mention gage you used. $46 plus shipping. HV2458TSU -HUSKY TSUMURA BAR 24" 3/8'' PITCH .058 GA. 84-DRIVERS *MADE IN JAPAN*

Light weight Tsu in 050 3/8 24" $68 plus shipping HV2450TSULI - HUSKY TSUMURA ULTRA LITE BAR 24" 3/8" PITCH .050 GAUGE 84-DRIVERS *MADE IN JAPAN*

All my saws are 3/8 050 72. I've looked at these bars but have never tried them. I'll have to give them a read. Thanks.

 

[WoodDuck]

I run Tsumura Lightweight bars. Long lasting for a decent price. Heard nothing but good things about Cannon bars, but they're crazy expensive for my tastes.

 

[crazyal]

I'm running a .050 chain right now and have a few Sthil spares (24" bar). If the bar was longer I would look into going with .058 or even .063 but for 24 inches oiling shouldn't be a problem. I'm not hard on the tip but in the winter I do get lots of wear on the rails. I do sharpen the chain on the bar but usually remove it about every 6 tanks to make sure the groove and oil hole is clean. If needed I'll file the bar down. It seams like grit gets mixed in with the ice and when it becomes water and wears the bar. I can't complain as it's the original bar and probably has had several dozen chains over the years and it still has life left in so it'll be a backup. Right now I'm leaning towards a 24" Tsumura in .050". I don't see the advantage for me with going with a lightweight bar. I've never bent a bar in my life but it seams like I would days after putting on the saw, lol. I've never owned one so this seams like a good time to try one.

 

[Hay Dude]

Stihl & Oregon

 

[prs]

Oregon here and their round chisel chain too. As long as I do my part about keeping the groove clean, roller nose greased and oil running well they do not wallow out or wear down much.

prs

 

[hslogger]

I run Tsumura Lightweight bars. Long lasting for a decent price. Heard nothing but good things about Cannon bars, but they're crazy expensive for my tastes.

Cannon bars are pretty much aimed at the pro handfaller market.

 

[WoodDuck]

Cannon bars are pretty much aimed at the pro handfaller market.

Gotcha! Nothing pro about my work! I'm just a hack! I'll get by using my Tsumuras for what tree butchery I do! If I was looking to majorly upgrade anything, I'd spend my money to have the saw ported by a reputable saw builder before I'd spend big bucks on a bar. That's just my personal preference though, some of the "pros" you referenced might run ported saws already anyway. Cheers!