Adding rear remote and 3rd function FEL Kubota L4240

[RickB]

That would be useful, it's not something I'd considered. My Branson's factory remotes don't offer float.

Apparently float is only unnecessary if you do not have it. Having it then giving it up would be an inconvenience for most.

 

[Fallon]

Apparently float is only unnecessary if you do not have it. Having it then giving it up would be an inconvenience for most.

Yup. I use float on my toplink all the time. When mowing it's always in float. I dont use it much on the sidelink though. The current Kubota rear remote valves suck bad (on valve # 6 or 7 now under warranty). My toplink valve holds finally but I've given up on the sidelink valve holding. Going to put in a piloted check valve to counter the leaky valve. That will basically break float on that cylinder.

You can definitely run TnT without float, but it adds a lot of value, especially on the toplink.

 

[Michael In Tennessee]

Yes, you can use your backhoe loop to run your valves. Just add appropriate length hoses to connect to the existing hoses. This is what I did on my MX4800. I added my valves down near where the OEM valves would fit. One of the backhoe hoses would reack, but I needed a 2 ft hose to reach the other connection. On the fender, two short hoses would be needed.

The 21 gpm valve is likely too larger. I suspect something in the 10 gpm range is more appropriate. A too large valve makes feathering controls difficult. Also, don't forget you need a valve with power beyond capability and the appropriate PB sleeve. To will also need a tank return line nad need to Tee into the existing tank return line under the right side of the tractor. I had to source a swivel Tee for that and then remove the existing Loader tank line which has a 90 degree end for one with a straight end.

 

[/pine]

I admit I've never pulled a mower or cutter but I have had most other common attachments on my 3PH in the nine years I've had hydraulic T&T...and I've never used the float detent but once or twice to see the results (mostly grading implements) and immediately took it out of float...I like to constantly make minor adjustments on the fly...

...most of what I read about using mowers and cutters....a short piece of chain is used rather than a solid link...

 

[brianrohr13]

It's only $26 for the float option. Is there a reason not to have it at that price? I mean, why not have it? It's there if I need it, it's there if I don't need it, right?

 

[Fallon]

It's only $26 for the float option. Is there a reason not to have it at that price? I mean, why not have it? It's there if I need it, it's there if I don't need it, right?

It adds a couple inches to the bottom of the valve. It can be a hair confusing for a few seconds if you dont know how it operates. A proper install probably negates the first issue unless you are super cramped. You should have the 2nd issue sorted out already or within 5-10 seconds of operating the valve the first time. So no, not really any good reasons to avoid it at that price.

 

[Fallon]

I admit I've never pulled a mower or cutter but I have had most other common attachments on my 3PH in the nine years I've had hydraulic T&T...and I've never used the float detent but once or twice to see the results (mostly grading implements) and immediately took it out of float...I like to constantly make minor adjustments on the fly...

...most of what I read about using mowers and cutters....a short piece of chain is used rather than a solid link...

I use float a bit with the box blade, but not often. Lift the 3pt up a ways & leave it in float. That packs & smooths a little without cutting as it rides on the back facing cutting edge. Basically the same effect as back dragging with a bucket.

Float & chain (or the flex link on any mower made for a long time) accomplish the same thing on a mower. With a quick hitch I dont have to unhook my top cylinder to put on a chain. With the QH, it's easier than messing with some of the flex links. With a QH & TnT I can generally hitch up without getting off the machine unless there are hydraulics or PTO to attach.

 

[brianrohr13]

The 21 gpm valve is likely too larger. I suspect something in the 10 gpm range is more appropriate. A too large valve makes feathering controls difficult. Also, don't forget you need a valve with power beyond capability and the appropriate PB sleeve. To will also need a tank return line nad need to Tee into the existing tank return line under the right side of the tractor. I had to source a swivel Tee for that and then remove the existing Loader tank line which has a 90 degree end for one with a straight end.

Here's some specs I found on my tractor. How do in interpret this information for valve sizing?

Pump flow: 9.8 gpm [37.1 lpm]
Total flow: 14.7 gpm [55.6 lpm]
Steering flow: 4.9 gpm [18.5 lpm]



He's the specs from the valve in had picked out. Is that 12gpm for each of the 5 valve? Not really sure what Y valve means.

Specifications for Y valves
Flow 12 GPM (nominal) to 16 GPM maximum
Pressure 3000 PSI maximum
Adjustable relief 1500-3000, factory set at 2000
Open Center with Power Beyond
Inlet and Power Beyond Ports SAE 8
Outlet Port SAE 10
Work Ports SAE 8

 

[RickB]

A 10 GPM valve is enough. From a practical standpoint I think you will find a 12 GPM valve more common and that will work just fine as well. As stated, 21 is too much.

 

[RNeumann]

Here's some specs I found on my tractor. How do in interpret this information for valve sizing?

Pump flow:9.8 gpm [37.1 lpm]
Total flow:14.7 gpm [55.6 lpm]
Steering flow:4.9 gpm [18.5 lpm]



He's the specs from the valve in had picked out. Is that 12gpm for each of the 5 valve? Not really sure what Y valve means.

Specifications for Y valves
Flow 12 GPM (nominal) to 16 GPM maximum
Pressure 3000 PSI maximum
Adjustable relief 1500-3000, factory set at 2000
Open Center with Power Beyond
Inlet and Power Beyond Ports SAE 8
Outlet Port SAE 10
Work Ports SAE 8

If I’m not mistaken the pressure relief and setting is in your loader control. I don’t think you need a pressure relieving valve.

With 37 acres and the bailer I would make sure everything is designed for the flow. QDs can be a choke point, along with the valves. Your operation isn’t the “typical” homeowner who uses a bit here and there. You are asking a lot form that machine (and I’m sure it will do great!) and I would just make sure your new valves etc aren’t adding heat (from restricted flow) to the equation.