Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[bruceha2000]

The A/C cab is nice, but a 72" Hustler would likely get the job done quicker, and better.

Unless he passes out from heat stroke

 

[hunt4570]

Unless he passes out from heat stroke

Well then he's done mowing...

 

[bruceha2000]

True, done mowing but the mowing wouldn't be done! Besides, depending on his terrain, the tractor might be a more comfortable ride. But then I know nothing about Z-turns, might be Hustler is the Cadillac (remember when those were a status symbol?) ride of Z-turn mowers.

 

[John0829]

I mow once a week unless rain pushes it back, usual cut is taking 1" to 2".

Try mowing more often,,
if the grass is the correct height when you start,, it will look great after cutting,,

I mowed 4 acres yesterday,, not a tire track,,,

 

[Lnk]

I mow once a week unless rain pushes it back, usual cut is taking 1" to 2".

Wow, seems like I am mowing every 3 days right now. Must be nice. Oh, and 8inches each time

 

[troverman]

True, done mowing but the mowing wouldn't be done! Besides, depending on his terrain, the tractor might be a more comfortable ride. But then I know nothing about Z-turns, might be Hustler is the Cadillac (remember when those were a status symbol?) ride of Z-turn mowers.

I own a side landscaping business, and I run zero turn mowers and tractors with flail mowers. Zero turn mowers take more skill to operate (well) when compared to a tractor or riding mower. However, once you know what you're doing, they are simply the fastest and best way to mow grass, by a long shot. All of them have spring seats, and a couple of brands, like Ferris, have full front and rear suspension. But I don't equate a tractor and flail mower to a zero turn - two completely different purposes. A tractor and flail mower is overkill for just weekly lawn maintenance, and won't leave nearly as good a cut, nor get it done as fast, nor be capable of getting in and out of tight spots. The zero turn mower is also likely more stable on sidehills, even though they have a tendency to want to turn or slide downhill. However, the zero turn mower is not designed for any type of "rough" terrain, gets stuck very easily in any type of mud or even in wet areas, and quickly gets overwhelmed in grass that is between 8-12" tall or greater. So they each have a purpose. A flail mower is designed for tall grass with light brush or vines - with the idea being you can mow less frequently; something like a field. A finish mower would be designed for just grass and more frequent mowings, with a better cut quality.

 

[John0829]

Sure proud my grass does not grow that fast. I know some who mow more frequently but I hate mowing. I mean I REALLY HATE mowing! As time has taken its toll on me it takes me 11+ hard non-stop hours to mow and trim all that we (I) keep maintained. A few years ago I could do it all in 1 day but now I have to break it down into 2 days. Oh, the place looks nice but I have other/better things I want to do with my time than push or sit on a mower (tractor) or pack a trimmer.

My dream come true would be to mow it once in the spring and it stay that way till fall or second best be able to mow only once a month.

Wow, seems like I am mowing every 3 days right now. Must be nice. Oh, and 8inches each time

 

[hunt4570]

Sure proud my grass does not grow that fast. I know some who mow more frequently but I hate mowing. I mean I REALLY HATE mowing! As time has taken its toll on me it takes me 11+ hard non-stop hours to mow and trim all that we (I) keep maintained. A few years ago I could do it all in 1 day but now I have to break it down into 2 days. Oh, the place looks nice but I have other/better things I want to do with my time than push or sit on a mower (tractor) or pack a trimmer.

My dream come true would be to mow it once in the spring and it stay that way till fall or second best be able to mow only once a month.

And I like mowing.. relaxes me, all I have to do is ride around.. easy peasy compared to the other stuff I do..

 

[troverman]

I enjoy mowing as well, although it gets old after 30 acres or so...

 

[bruceha2000]

My dream come true would be to mow it once in the spring and it stay that way till fall or second best be able to mow only once a month.

Astroturf!!

I own a side landscaping business, and I run zero turn mowers and tractors with flail mowers. Zero turn mowers take more skill to operate (well) when compared to a tractor or riding mower. However, once you know what you're doing, they are simply the fastest and best way to mow grass, by a long shot. All of them have spring seats, and a couple of brands, like Ferris, have full front and rear suspension. But I don't equate a tractor and flail mower to a zero turn - two completely different purposes. A tractor and flail mower is overkill for just weekly lawn maintenance, and won't leave nearly as good a cut, nor get it done as fast, nor be capable of getting in and out of tight spots. The zero turn mower is also likely more stable on sidehills, even though they have a tendency to want to turn or slide downhill. However, the zero turn mower is not designed for any type of "rough" terrain, gets stuck very easily in any type of mud or even in wet areas, and quickly gets overwhelmed in grass that is between 8-12" tall or greater. So they each have a purpose. A flail mower is designed for tall grass with light brush or vines - with the idea being you can mow less frequently; something like a field. A finish mower would be designed for just grass and more frequent mowings, with a better cut quality.

Agree with all that you said. It would take me forever to mow my yard with the tractor and a flail. Not that huge and way too many "obstacles" to make it reasonable to do even the more open areas. It will be used to mow the fields. And, there are few areas of the yard that could be described as flat or smooth. I'm not sure a Z turn would be much faster than my garden tractor because there is no way I could mow at speed. I could use a 100 or so yards of good topsoil

 

[hunt4570]

I enjoy mowing as well, although it gets old after 30 acres or so...

Yeah, I have maybe an acre- acre and a half I do with the little rider, and 2-3 hours at most usually with the Kubota and a flail, a couple fields and a bunch of paths and roads around the place. My larger field a guy down the road hays, so he pays me to mow it!!

 

[John0829]

My larger field a guy down the road hays, so he pays me to mow it!!

Now that's the way to do it!

 

[troverman]

...I'm not sure a Z turn would be much faster than my garden tractor because there is no way I could mow at speed.

You'd be surprised...it's not the speed so much as the time spent turning around. I was mowing a 5 acre commercial property with a Simplicity Legacy XL riding mower, 60" deck, hydraulic decklift, electric cut height adjustment, power steering, 25-horse Kohler V-twin. This thing was like the Cadillac of riding mowers. However, I saved an hour and a half with the zero turn...and it is only a 52" at that. With the rider, you get to the end of a row and make a 3 point turn...every time. With the zero turn, you just pivot and you're on your way.

 

[hunt4570]

So I've been reading about belts, and the way these flails are adjusted as far as the skids to roller are adjusted, and belts are adjusted.
Getting ready to put belts on my Caroni TM1900 so I pulled out the little manual I got with it and it stated how to adjust for correct "stretch" on the belts, but it does not anywhere state what that correct stretch (deflection?) is!! so I wonder what the correct adjustment is...
Also referring to the skids location, the manual states to have the skids and the roller at the same height. The discussion here a couple pages ago people were saying to have the roller lower than the skids, apparently that is not the case, at least according to my Caroni manual.

 

[Lnk]

So I've been reading about belts, and the way these flails are adjusted as far as the skids to roller are adjusted, and belts are adjusted.
Getting ready to put belts on my Caroni TM1900 so I pulled out the little manual I got with it and it stated how to adjust for correct "stretch" on the belts, but it does not anywhere state what that correct stretch (deflection?) is!! so I wonder what the correct adjustment is...
Also referring to the skids location, the manual states to have the skids and the roller at the same height. The discussion here a couple pages ago people were saying to have the roller lower than the skids, apparently that is not the case, at least according to my Caroni manual.

Set your skids as high as you can, they are there to protect the rotor from hitting the ground. That is all. They do nothing else. I would set them 1" below the rotor or so. They should not dig, scuff, slide. If the mower was laying on the ground, it would keep the rotor off the floor. Don't overthink this.

 

[troverman]

The belt should have a little deflection in it, but not a lot. I would say if you press with your fingers in the center of the belt travel, 3/4" to an inch or so of deflection. If you over-tighten, it stresses the bearings on the pulley shafts, and doesn't allow slip as easily when your mower contacts a hard object. The "belt" is essentially your shear bolt / slip clutch and protects the gearbox. Under-tighten and the belt will slip in heavy grass, causing poor performance and generating a lot of heat on the belt and causing early belt failure.

Some flails have an automatic spring tensioner, others have a manual tensioner. Some use multiple v-belts; others use banded belts. Properly adjusted, belts should last a long time. Keep in mind, new belts will stretch. I'd set the tension on a new belt, then run for 5 hours or so and adjust the tension again, then maybe again in another 5 hours and it should be good for a while.

 

[hunt4570]

The belt should have a little deflection in it, but not a lot. I would say if you press with your fingers in the center of the belt travel, 3/4" to an inch or so of deflection. If you over-tighten, it stresses the bearings on the pulley shafts, and doesn't allow slip as easily when your mower contacts a hard object. The "belt" is essentially your shear bolt / slip clutch and protects the gearbox. Under-tighten and the belt will slip in heavy grass, causing poor performance and generating a lot of heat on the belt and causing early belt failure.

Some flails have an automatic spring tensioner, others have a manual tensioner. Some use multiple v-belts; others use banded belts. Properly adjusted, belts should last a long time. Keep in mind, new belts will stretch. I'd set the tension on a new belt, then run for 5 hours or so and adjust the tension again, then maybe again in another 5 hours and it should be good for a while.

Thanks, I adjusted deflection at between 1/2-3/4...
My Mower is a Caroni, it has 3 v belts and the adjuster has an adjustable threaded rod attached to a spring then to the "idler pully" that tensions all three belts at once. so maybe "semi-automatic"?

So, as far as my skid/roller setup, setting it down on a concrete floor it seems it can be 1/2 inch high or low of the roller. It was at 1/2 inch lower so I moved it up to the next position which puts it at 1/2 inch higher than the roller.

Heading out to give it a try..

 

[troverman]

Yeah, that adjustment is how my Vrismo is, although the Titan mower I have is the more archaic full manual adjuster.

As for the roller and skids...if your tractor and flail is parked on a flat surface, the skids should be parallel to the ground with the mower setting on the roller. If the skids aren't parallel, adjust the top link until they are. Then lower them or raise them as you see fit. They are for the purpose of protecting the drum and knives.

 

[hunt4570]

Well rats!! What have I done now??

So I went mowing a little bit and it seemed like it had a new squeal so I came back and readjusted the belts a little looser. When I started it back up and engaged the PTO it made a big racket so I quick shut it down. New belts look fine, I disconnected the PTO shaft and it seems to be locked up, tried turning over with the belt pully by hand and it wont budge!
I'm pretty religious about greasing it all the time, and the gearbox is up to the line...

Whatcha think , and where do I go first?

I'm thinking taking the belts off and that should narrow it down to the rotor or the drive, yes?

 

[Lnk]

Well rats!! What have I done now??

So I went mowing a little bit and it seemed like it had a new squeal so I came back and readjusted the belts a little looser. When I started it back up and engaged the PTO it made a big racket so I quick shut it down. New belts look fine, I disconnected the PTO shaft and it seems to be locked up, tried turning over with the belt pully by hand and it wont budge!
I'm pretty religious about greasing it all the time, and the gearbox is up to the line...

Whatcha think , and where do I go first?

I'm thinking taking the belts off and that should narrow it down to the rotor or the drive, yes?

Yes, that will determine what is locked up. Make sure when you raised the skids the bolt isn't hitting the drum or debris cutter on the inside of the side panel. I don't have a caroni, but undo what you recently did. I bet it is there.