Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[CADplans]

Add some pinstriping and custom graphics...you'll be the envy of all the locals.

My inherited Maytag Neptune washing machine (first residential front load washer) was about to be discarded. I got a new control circuit board for it and now I may do a custom pain job on the cabinet...maybe a metallic plumb with yellow accents.

As for my 2003 Massey Ferguson tractor, it is repainted in original factory colors and looks almost new. I am adding some custom LED lighting for nighttime mowing (Chinese flail mower with forged hammer flails).

Photos when you done with the repairs...

For me,, factory original paint only please,,, :confused2:

My paint guy knows I am a stickler for factory paint,, and he insures me this is how this machine left the factory,,,

The only variation from factory is that this is base coat - clear coat,,,

:laughing:

 

[Fallon]

The Mott (Alamo) 72 Fine Cut I just bought is still straight with no bends or broken welds, rusty here and there. Best I can tell, all the bearings are original and sound. I believe the one I have is from the 1970's-80's was county owned and well maintained. New set of blades and hardware were just under $200. If you are comfortable with a wrench, parts are avail from Flailmaster. My vote is for the Alamo SHD88.

Ya, an Alamo is going to be a beefy industrial machine. Caroni or a Woodmaxx is a consumer unit, good ones, but still cheaper & lighter. A used machine is likely to need replacement bearings, seals & blades sooner, but frames, hoods & what not will last longer. Faded paint, possibly worn or stripped fasteners & the usual used machine issues.

 

[cscholz]

Ya, an Alamo is going to be a beefy industrial machine. Caroni or a Woodmaxx is a consumer unit, good ones, but still cheaper & lighter. A used machine is likely to need replacement bearings, seals & blades sooner, but frames, hoods & what not will last longer. Faded paint, possibly worn or stripped fasteners & the usual used machine issues.

Is there a way to tell the age of the Alamo given the serial number? And it appears there may be a couple of dents in the hood - seems like as long as they are pushing out they won't have any negative impact on the blade rotation. Is there any reason to be concerned about those kinds of dents?

I have no issue wrenching a bit to replace blades, bearings and/or seals. But I don't weld so I'd want to avoid anything requiring that kind of work.

BTW, am I correct in seeing that the Alamo SHD uses just 1 drive belt?

Carl

 

[retiredfarmer]

It is more that the one arm can float independent of the other so the mower can twist sort of independent of what the tractor rear wheels are doing.

Here is a picture of a pair on ebay.

A little modding to fit this tractor.

 

[def38]

And it appears there may be a couple of dents in the hood - seems like as long as they are pushing out they won't have any negative impact on the blade rotation. Is there any reason to be concerned about those kinds of dents?

If there are visible dents in the hood, that may mean that a large rock or log got caught in the machine while under power. I would carefully inspect the rotor shaft to insure that it was true and not bent.

 

[def38]

For me,, factory original paint only please,,, :confused2:

My paint guy knows I am a stickler for factory paint,, and he insures me this is how this machine left the factory,,,

The only variation from factory is that this is base coat - clear coat,,,

:laughing:

The muffler needs a bit of work!

 

[Fallon]

If there are visible dents in the hood, that may mean that a large rock or log got caught in the machine while under power. I would carefully inspect the rotor shaft to insure that it was true and not bent.

My old 917 hood looks like popcorn almost. Probably helps you figure out how I only paid $100 for it. But it worked just fine. I'll agree & disagree on the rotor. Ya, walk away from a bent rotor. I'll let you figure out how straight the mounting bars on the rotor are... There was a little vibration with a proper set of knives installed, but not enough for it to run fine for about 4 years. More noise & vibration came from that crack in the hook (no that's not bad pixies on the photo) I never bothered to weld up.

My new Peruzzo Brush Bull has a way thicker hood. I assume the Alamo would be similar while the Woodmaxx, Chinese & cheap Italians would be similar to the Ford's hood thickness. While lighter duty the Ford is still hanging in there after being well used for 20-30 years. A few dents wouldn't phase me at all. A lot wouldn't either if the price were right.

 

[wims8899]

Does anybody have a source or part number for new roller bearings on a John Deere 25A ?? Those suckers aren't cheap from John Deere or Flail Master. I saw some guys in this thread who used a New Holland part number for bearings that were the same but it looks like they don't make that part number anymore.

The bearings on mine are the three bolt design with I think the hex center.

I just picked up the mower and was able to free up the main drum fairly easily.

I didn't try too hard on the roller drum bc I figured they'd be cheap and easy to replace.

Maybe I'll just try a littler harder to free it up.

 

[retiredfarmer]

Looking at a Ford 917 Flail mower that is set up for fine cut. Are the blade drums the same for the 917's with the fine and coarse cuts? Can this be converted over to a coarse cut by just installing new coarse cut blades?
Thank you.

 

[D2Cat]

If you need a bearing of any type, for just about anything including a flail mower, might check with a local industrial bearing supply company. There you can often find products in stock, or they will have the next day, at prices considerably less than other places. Best to take the old bearing off and have it with you. They can mic and come up with what's required. Or have the original part number and use it to inquire.