Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing

   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #1  

RSR

Platinum Member
Joined
Nov 29, 2017
Messages
732
Location
North Country, NY
Tractor
LS XR4145HC
Ok, now that the question of to finance, or pay cash, has been beat to death (with lots of good insight) let's move on to more fun topics. What type of tractor to buy?

Warning, I have never been accused of being terse, so this may get long.

While I haven't been convinced to finance a purchase, I'm getting ever closer to the amount I feel I need for a cash purchase. So maybe now is a good time to start figuring out what exactly I need, as that is currently causing a conundrum for me.

Ok, so here are the particulars:

5 Acres of land, ~1/2 acre of lawn (no plans to mow with a tractor), the rest heavily wooded, very rocky, and uneven, on the side of a fairly gentle hill. I should mention there is an additional 5 acres next to us for sell. If the seller was willing to sell it at a reasonable price, we would likely buy it. (Currently it's listed at 50% over market value, and has been on the market for 4 years). We bought our lace 5 years ago. The seller kept an additional 30 acres, that they really don't do anything with (they moved to Florida). We've told them we'd love to buy it, and maybe that opportunity may come up down the road, but who knows.

My tasks:
1) First and foremost, snow removal and road maintenance. I live on a private road, with about 1/8 mile to clear and maintain. We get around 70-90 inches of snow a year, and it is extremely cold; very common to have days where the high stays below 0. It seems a cab is a must. The plan is a rear mount (not front due to cost) snow blower. There are not any places to pile any significant amounts of snow along the road. The question, then, is how much PTO Hp do I really need to complete the task in a reasonable amount of time? Currently I have an Ariens 28 in. deluxe walk behind snow blower. An average snowfall (6-8 inches) takes about 2 hours to clear. The snow is usually pretty dry and fluffy. We do get 1-2 Nor'easters a year that can dump 12+ inches of wet heavy snow. That takes 3+ hours.

What I can't seem to get a handle on is, for example, if I have 20 Hp at the PTO, how much quicker can I expect to remove snow compared to my current setup? What about if I have 30 Hp at the PTO? If I could compare impeller size and RPM on my snowblower to RPM and impeller size on another model, it would be straightforward to figure out how much more quickly I would be able to move snow. However, it seems virtually impossible to find those specs. So, practical experience please?

2) Woods maintenance. The woods are currently a mess with downed trees, etc. We heat by wood (see next point) and there is a good 20-30 cord of standing (or downed) dead wood that is currently just inaccessible. I'd like to be able to get into the woods and build some paths for access. There are currently some small ones, but there is significant work to be done on this front. In addition, the bulk of the trees are hard maple, so if I had access into the woods, I would play around with doing some Maple Sugaring in the future when my 3 boys get older (you know, free labor and all). Now, as shown in the picture, we live on VERY rocky ground (primarily granite I believe). Boulders range in size from football to VW bus.

IMG_20181013_140326.jpg

My thought is a grapple and a heavy tractor would be needed for any serious progress on this front. There is no hurry, so I can just chip away at it a little bit at a time. The trade-off seems to be the size to handle/move large rocks with agility. Again, practical experience would be greatly appreciated here. I can calculate how much a granite boulder weighs, and try to estimate the needed lift capacity to move it around with say a grapple, but specs on paper are a lot different than real world experience as the center of mass is well past the pivot pins, not to mention the safety of it all.

3) Wood handling. We burn 20-25 face cord/year for heating during the winter. Currently I get a load that has been cut and split delivered, then stack it by hand in the wood shed, then once a week during the winter, move it to the garage. That takes a lot of time. In my mind, the way to handle this would be build up a bunch of wood pallet containers. Then, when the wood gets delivered, use a grapple to scoop it up and dump it in the pallet containers, use forks to stack the containers in the wood shed, and then simply transport them from the shed to garage with the tractor, as needed. That would save a ton of time if it could be done. Again, how much lift capacity would I really need to accomplish this? I can always build the carrying crates so they aren't as tall (just use more and stack them) to get the weight down, but there is a point of diminishing returns.

4) Landscaping. I'd like to harvest some of the rocks for building some retaining walls across the lawn. I'd like to move as large of rocks as possible, and have the capacity to lift and place them where I want with a grapple. Eventually, the plan is put in some walls, bring in a bunch of dirt, and terrace the lawn (which is currently just the side of a hill).

Tractor dealers:
Locally (< 30 minutes)
Kubota - Very good reputation
John Deere - Very good reputation (where I bought my snow blower)
Mahindra - New dealer (~2 years) another user on here had a very bad experience with this particular dealer

Reasonable driving distance (1-1.5 hours)
TYM - Seems to have a good reputation, but very small
LS - chainsaw shop that just started carrying them 1-2 years ago. Questionable.

Significant driving distance (1.5-2.5 hours)
Kioti (I'm not sure how big of a dealer they really are)
Possibly Branson and Yanmar

As I have researched tractors, I am leaning towards something like a Kioti CK4010SE (cab). But, if I could get away with less PTO HP, why not a CK2610, as they now come equipped with the higher capacity loader? I also like, on paper, the LS XR3135HC. Of course, at that point, for very little more money, why not bump up to a XR4140HC? And suddenly I have a 60Hp tractor ... You see where this leads me.

In reality, I think something like the Kubota B3350 makes a lot of sense, with good dealer support, etc. But I have a hard time getting over the price, and horribly anemic loaders.

So, this is where I'm at, suggestions, comments, etc. are greatly appreciated.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #2  
Ok, now that the question of to finance, or pay cash, has been beat to death (with lots of good insight) let's move on to more fun topics. What type of tractor to buy?

Warning, I have never been accused of being terse, so this may get long.

While I haven't been convinced to finance a purchase, I'm getting ever closer to the amount I feel I need for a cash purchase. So maybe now is a good time to start figuring out what exactly I need, as that is currently causing a conundrum for me.

Ok, so here are the particulars:

5 Acres of land, ~1/2 acre of lawn (no plans to mow with a tractor), the rest heavily wooded, very rocky, and uneven, on the side of a fairly gentle hill. I should mention there is an additional 5 acres next to us for sell. If the seller was willing to sell it at a reasonable price, we would likely buy it. (Currently it's listed at 50% over market value, and has been on the market for 4 years). We bought our lace 5 years ago. The seller kept an additional 30 acres, that they really don't do anything with (they moved to Florida). We've told them we'd love to buy it, and maybe that opportunity may come up down the road, but who knows.

My tasks:
1) First and foremost, snow removal and road maintenance. I live on a private road, with about 1/8 mile to clear and maintain. We get around 70-90 inches of snow a year, and it is extremely cold; very common to have days where the high stays below 0. It seems a cab is a must. The plan is a rear mount (not front due to cost) snow blower. There are not any places to pile any significant amounts of snow along the road. The question, then, is how much PTO Hp do I really need to complete the task in a reasonable amount of time? Currently I have an Ariens 28 in. deluxe walk behind snow blower. An average snowfall (6-8 inches) takes about 2 hours to clear. The snow is usually pretty dry and fluffy. We do get 1-2 Nor'easters a year that can dump 12+ inches of wet heavy snow. That takes 3+ hours.

What I can't seem to get a handle on is, for example, if I have 20 Hp at the PTO, how much quicker can I expect to remove snow compared to my current setup? What about if I have 30 Hp at the PTO? If I could compare impeller size and RPM on my snowblower to RPM and impeller size on another model, it would be straightforward to figure out how much more quickly I would be able to move snow. However, it seems virtually impossible to find those specs. So, practical experience please?

2) Woods maintenance. The woods are currently a mess with downed trees, etc. We heat by wood (see next point) and there is a good 20-30 cord of standing (or downed) dead wood that is currently just inaccessible. I'd like to be able to get into the woods and build some paths for access. There are currently some small ones, but there is significant work to be done on this front. In addition, the bulk of the trees are hard maple, so if I had access into the woods, I would play around with doing some Maple Sugaring in the future when my 3 boys get older (you know, free labor and all). Now, as shown in the picture, we live on VERY rocky ground (primarily granite I believe). Boulders range in size from football to VW bus.

View attachment 576509

My thought is a grapple and a heavy tractor would be needed for any serious progress on this front. There is no hurry, so I can just chip away at it a little bit at a time. The trade-off seems to be the size to handle/move large rocks with agility. Again, practical experience would be greatly appreciated here. I can calculate how much a granite boulder weighs, and try to estimate the needed lift capacity to move it around with say a grapple, but specs on paper are a lot different than real world experience as the center of mass is well past the pivot pins, not to mention the safety of it all.

3) Wood handling. We burn 20-25 face cord/year for heating during the winter. Currently I get a load that has been cut and split delivered, then stack it by hand in the wood shed, then once a week during the winter, move it to the garage. That takes a lot of time. In my mind, the way to handle this would be build up a bunch of wood pallet containers. Then, when the wood gets delivered, use a grapple to scoop it up and dump it in the pallet containers, use forks to stack the containers in the wood shed, and then simply transport them from the shed to garage with the tractor, as needed. That would save a ton of time if it could be done. Again, how much lift capacity would I really need to accomplish this? I can always build the carrying crates so they aren't as tall (just use more and stack them) to get the weight down, but there is a point of diminishing returns.

4) Landscaping. I'd like to harvest some of the rocks for building some retaining walls across the lawn. I'd like to move as large of rocks as possible, and have the capacity to lift and place them where I want with a grapple. Eventually, the plan is put in some walls, bring in a bunch of dirt, and terrace the lawn (which is currently just the side of a hill).

Tractor dealers:
Locally (< 30 minutes)
Kubota - Very good reputation
John Deere - Very good reputation (where I bought my snow blower)
Mahindra - New dealer (~2 years) another user on here had a very bad experience with this particular dealer

Reasonable driving distance (1-1.5 hours)
TYM - Seems to have a good reputation, but very small
LS - chainsaw shop that just started carrying them 1-2 years ago. Questionable.

Significant driving distance (1.5-2.5 hours)
Kioti (I'm not sure how big of a dealer they really are)
Possibly Branson and Yanmar

As I have researched tractors, I am leaning towards something like a Kioti CK4010SE (cab). But, if I could get away with less PTO HP, why not a CK2610, as they now come equipped with the higher capacity loader? I also like, on paper, the LS XR3135HC. Of course, at that point, for very little more money, why not bump up to a XR4140HC? And suddenly I have a 60Hp tractor ... You see where this leads me.

In reality, I think something like the Kubota B3350 makes a lot of sense, with good dealer support, etc. But I have a hard time getting over the price, and horribly anemic loaders.

So, this is where I'm at, suggestions, comments, etc. are greatly appreciated.
My impression is: With your plans of packing boulders, wood and a running a decent sized snowblower, nothing less than 35 horses. Go a frame size up from the b model Kubota at a minimum. Especially with the possibility of acquiring more acrage.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #3  
I used to have a L3240 which weighs 3500 pounds base tractor and lifted 1800 pounds to full height at the pins on the loader. I’d want something at least that big and not a lot bigger. I wouldn’t want something bigger than an L machine to get around in the woods. My full size backhoe is a joke for working in tight conditions. I’m not of the mindset that a tractor must be purchased from the local dealer but I wouldn’t want a tractor without a local dealership. My grandpa has a L3800 which is pretty much mine. He uses it twice a year and I I get it the rest of the time. My L3240 was way nicer. I’d take a used Grand series over a new economy for the same money any day.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #4  
With the close together trees, rocks all around and slopes... I would say to go buy a UTV of some sort. I would get my Yamaha Rhino in there, pull out a couple trees with chains and be gone while you and your tractor were still pulling out of the shop area. Or I would cut the trees and stack them into my bed and haul butt out of there to put it where it goes to rest.

I don't blow snow, so no comment there. I push mine over a cliff.

Your comment on anemic loader performance... that is a very subjective statement. What size loader do you use now? I have a B2650 with the hydraulic pressure "tweaked" a bit, it will give the big and heavy B all it wants and then some. I have oversized tires and wheels that are around 100 lbs heavier than standard and 800 lbs of fluid fill, 1800-ish lb tractor and 1000-ish lb loader with a 400-ish lb rear grader blade. Call it 4,200 - 4,300 lbs. with me sitting on it. I can pull the tractor into the air just fine with that anemic loader. Any more loader and you flat out need more weight in tractor. unless you like getting air every time you pull on the loader stick?

I would go with one in your local list personally, especially if you want OEM fluids, filters and parts. Driving 5 hours round trip plus time beating jaws at the parts counter means an entire day lost any time you need.... anything. Unless you buy a Kubota, then you call up Neill Messicks dealership and they drop ship to your door.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #5  
I would go with one in your local list personally, especially if you want OEM fluids, filters and parts. Driving 5 hours round trip plus time beating jaws at the parts counter means an entire day lost any time you need.... anything. Unless you buy a Kubota, then you call up Neill Messicks dealership and they drop ship to your door.
Don't most current brands do that ?
I don't own a Kubota and I Never go to the dealer for parts, filters, fluids.
I buy fluids locally and any OEM part or filter I ever needed over the past 17 years I've owned it I order online ( usually from Michigan Iron) and its shipped to my door
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #6  
Not sure about Mahindra, Kioti and other tier 2 brands and the ability to get OEM fluids and parts shipped at discounted prices quickly and easily.

I see Messicks as a pioneer in wholesale pricing OEM tractor parts out top the entire country.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I used to have a L3240 which weighs 3500 pounds base tractor and lifted 1800 pounds to full height at the pins on the loader. I’d want something at least that big and not a lot bigger. I wouldn’t want something bigger than an L machine to get around in the woods. My full size backhoe is a joke for working in tight conditions. I’m not of the mindset that a tractor must be purchased from the local dealer but I wouldn’t want a tractor without a local dealership. My grandpa has a L3800 which is pretty much mine. He uses it twice a year and I I get it the rest of the time. My L3240 was way nicer. I’d take a used Grand series over a new economy for the same money any day.
That sounds pretty close in line with what I was thinking. Hence, why I am leaning towards something like a CK4010. The problem is dealer support for a Kioti or LS.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #8  
That sounds pretty close in line with what I was thinking. Hence, why I am leaning towards something like a CK4010. The problem is dealer support for a Kioti or LS.
Sounds like you need to factor in competent dealer support. I've never had to use my dealer (3 hours away) however I know without a doubt that their support and expertise is available. Sometimes that comes with paying more.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Sounds like you need to factor in competent dealer support. I've never had to use my dealer (3 hours away) however I know without a doubt that their support and expertise is available. Sometimes that comes with paying more.
I think that's a reasonable consideration, even though it pains me to buy something I otherwise might not have due to price.

The question, then, for weighing risk, is "what percentage of new tractors require dealer support/service in the first 5 years of use?"

It would be great if manufacturers would publish that sort of data.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #10  
Unless your a mechanical dolt, I'd guess that honestly... very few.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #11  
A couple thoughts are...A heated cab is really nice if your dealing with a fair amount of snow in the winter.
On the other hand you have to be really careful in the woods with a cab, the O sh_t always seems to happen.

If it was me I would hire someone with a bulldozer to cut some roads for you. No wear and tear on your tractor and done in a day or two.

Loading wood on pallets to transport sounds like a practical and time saving idea.
I would think you would need at least need a larger frame tractor. The Kioti CK 2610 would probably also work...bigger size frame and tires with no emissions.

Good Luck with your search for a new tractor.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #12  
Kioti just came out with the new DK10SE series in 2018 which may work well for the OP. They look really nice and are a very nice size, 71 inch wheelbase and 60-ish inches wide, about the exact same footprint as a Kubota L3560 and the same weight (3500lbs ROPS, 4000lbs Cab). Kioti claims the loader can lift 2500lbs to full height at the pins. It also has a cool lever on the back to raise/lower the 3pt arms from outside the tractor.

I’m a died in the wool Japanese tractor guy but these new Korean tractors are making me look twice.

All New Kioti DK10SE HST Tractors - DK4210SE & DK4710SE Walkthru - YouTube
 
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   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #13  
I would not even consider an open station tractor for winter snow blowing. But it gets cold here. I mean REAL cold, not "cutesy" cold. Like all winter long it will NEVER warm up to 0 degrees. The only guys you see here moving snow on open stations are either soft headed, or poor. (Trying to be humorous here). But at 4am, when it's -40 F (raw air temp, not "wind chill"), and the wind is blowing at 20-30 mph... we call that WEDNESDAY. As in, just another day, and the snow has to get cleared anyway. A heated cab is worth it's weight in gold.

I've not seen a late model factory cabbed tractor that didn't have safety glass in the cab. Maybe some of the cheaper aftermarket cab kits don't? I dunno, haven't seen one that didn't. Point being, it is possible to break a window, yes. But just brushing by a small branch or two is not going to break a safety glass window. Think about it like the glass windows in your truck. Sure they can be broken, but it takes some extra effort to make that happen. If you can clear a path into the trees before hand, then running a cabbed tractor in the woods is a no-brainer (unless you're a no-brainer I guess).

I would definitely look at the heavier end of tractor chassis, get those rear tires filled, get a rear ballast (1000-1500 lbs minimum) for that 3pt hitch, and something with a FEL that can lift at least 2K, before you go diving into those woods picking up granite boulders.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I would not even consider an open station tractor for winter snow blowing. But it gets cold here. I mean REAL cold, not "cutesy" cold. Like all winter long it will NEVER warm up to 0 degrees. The only guys you see here moving snow on open stations are either soft headed, or poor. (Trying to be humorous here). But at 4am, when it's -40 F (raw air temp, not "wind chill"), and the wind is blowing at 20-30 mph... we call that WEDNESDAY. As in, just another day, and the snow has to get cleared anyway. A heated cab is worth it's weight in gold.

I've not seen a late model factory cabbed tractor that didn't have safety glass in the cab. Maybe some of the cheaper aftermarket cab kits don't? I dunno, haven't seen one that didn't. Point being, it is possible to break a window, yes. But just brushing by a small branch or two is not going to break a safety glass window. Think about it like the glass windows in your truck. Sure they can be broken, but it takes some extra effort to make that happen. If you can clear a path into the trees before hand, then running a cabbed tractor in the woods is a no-brainer (unless you're a no-brainer I guess).

I would definitely look at the heavier end of tractor chassis, get those rear tires filled, get a rear ballast (1000-1500 lbs minimum) for that 3pt hitch, and something with a FEL that can lift at least 2K, before you go diving into those woods picking up granite boulders.
I don't know that we get quite that cold, but we are definitely on that end of the spectrum. We go weeks without seeing temperatures rising above freezing, and it's not uncommon to go 3-7 days with temps never getting above zero.

I have a similar mindset. Most of the trees are maples with branches high up (no evergreens to push through). I figure a little yearly maintenance with a pole saw should make using the tractor in the woods manageable.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Unless your a mechanical dolt, I'd guess that honestly... very few.
Rock - so are you saying don't worry about local dealer support? As I said, I really only have access to the big two, and while I think their tractors are nice, I think there are better value options out there. I worry, though, as I don't have a way to tow it either, should it need to go to the dealer.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Kioti just came out with the new DK10SE series in 2018 which may work well for the OP. They look really nice and are a very nice size, 71 inch wheelbase and 60-ish inches wide, about the exact same footprint as a Kubota L3560 and the same weight. Kioti claims the loader can lift 2500lbs to full height at the pins. It also has a cool lever on the back to raise/lower the 3pt arms from outside the tractor.

I’m a died in the wool Japanese tractor guy but these new Korean tractors are making me look twice.

All New Kioti DK10SE HST Tractors - DK4210SE & DK4710SE Walkthru - YouTube
I was pretty excited when they came out with the DK4210SE, until I realized the PTO HP is less than the CK4010SE.

With snow blowing being my main priority, that is a concern.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #17  
5 Acres of land, ~1/2 acre of lawn (no plans to mow with a tractor), the rest heavily wooded, very rocky, and uneven, on the side of a fairly gentle hill.

My tasks:
1) First and foremost, snow removal and road maintenance.

2) Woods maintenance.

I understand your desire for a cab tractor. However your conundrum is that cab tractors and work in the woods is an impractical combination. Cabs are fragile.

I used to have a (Grand L) L3240 which weighs 3500 pounds base tractor and lifted 1800 pounds to full height at the pins on the loader. I’d want something at least that big and not a lot bigger. I’d take a used Grand series over a new economy for the same money any day.
I have the current small model Grand L, L3560. Heavy for its small size.

Buy a stick of PVC pipe. Cut it to 72", the width of the larger Grand L tractors equipped with R4 tires: L4060/L4760/L5060/l5460/L6060. Mark pipe with tape at 62", width of L3560 (L3240) equipped with R4 tires. Walk around your property testing pipe width between trees.

(Bear in mind that you may want rear wheels spread 2"-3"-4" wider than standard/default, to increase stability on sloping ground.)

When I went through this exercise the 72" wide tractors were ruled out.

Landscaping. I'd like to harvest some of the rocks for building retaining walls across the lawn. I'd like to move as large of rocks as possible, and have the capacity to lift and place them where I want with a grapple. Eventually, the plan is put in some walls, bring in a bunch of dirt, and terrace the lawn (which is currently just the side of a hill).

My thought is a grapple and a heavy tractor would be needed for any serious progress on this front. There is no hurry, so I can just chip away at it a little bit at a time. The trade-off seems to be the size to handle/move large rocks with agility. Again, practical experience would be greatly appreciated here. I can calculate how much a granite boulder weighs, and try to estimate the needed lift capacity to move it around with say a grapple, but specs on paper are a lot different than real world experience as the center of mass is well past the pivot pins, not to mention the safety of it all.

I would use an old car hood from the junkyard, attached to tractor Three Point Hitch cross-drawbar, as a sleigh to skid boulders. You can push large boulders onto the car hood with an unadorned FEL bucket and lift boulders modest heights where you want retaining walls, perhaps securing them with nylon straps during lift.

You will need heavy Three Point Hitch counterbalance when lifting boulders in the FEL to place for walls.

Kubota offers optional heavy duty SSQA buckets. With your conditions a heavy duty bucket would be advisable. The 60" heavy-duty, round-back bucket is option model L2296.

CROSS DRAWBAR: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/404017-tractor-three-point-hitch-cross.html
 
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   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #18  
The question, then, for weighing risk, is "what percentage of new tractors require dealer support/service in the first 5 years of use?"

No.

More properly two questions.

1. What percentage of neophyte tractor operators damage their tractor due to lack of experience during first five years of operation, to an extent requiring dealer repair?
[Neophyte operators do not know what they do not know.]

Answer: 100%


2. What percentage of neophyte tractor operators buy a too light tractor first, then operate it constantly at 100% trying to compensate, leading to repetitive damage requiring dealer repair?

Answer: 25%


It is not the hardware. It is the software.
 
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   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing
  • Thread Starter
#19  
No.

More properly two questions.

1. What percentage of neophyte tractor operators damage their tractor due to lack of experience during first five years of operation, to an extent requiring dealer repair?

Answer: 100%


2. What percentage of neophyte tractor operators buy a too light tractor first, then operate it at 100% trying to compensate, leading to repetitive damage requiring dealer repair?

Answer: 25%


It is not the hardware. It is the software.
You point is well taken.
 
   / Buying Advice: Tractor Sizing #20  
you said something about calculating the weight of the rock to give you an idea of loader lift capacity.
Don't forget to add the grapple weight into your figures. A heavy grapple will reduce loader lift capacity.

I used a 35 hp tractor for years and have done most anything I needed to do.
No grapple, only a thumb

Since moving to the farm last year. I purchased the mx5100. Though I hardly use it. Most of the time is still spent on the 35 hp yanmar
 

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