Shipping container for tractor storage

[Big Blue Florida]

We have about 20 containers between properties. Different sizes.
The biggest threat to our containers usefulness is the floor steel cross members rusting out.
This usually happens when set directly on mother earth.

Those w/ air circulation underneath holdup pretty well.

Rust control early on pays off.

Our refrigeration units are made mostly of AL & SS.

It should be noted, I'm speaking about the FL area.

They can run from free to 4K after set up. Location is important. The delivery can cost more than the container.

Keep in mind these containers have traveled the world & cargo, its anybody's guess. If you are going to be spending a lot of time inside, you might want to clean the surfaces.
They will stack well if you have the corner ratchets locks.

Most of the 20 ft units are useless for general shipping & are now cheap. They are to small & the standard has changed for overseas shipping.
The 40 ft are in need of special transport so will cost a bit more to get to your set up area.
Get a 60 ft & you have your own bowling alley. These are seemingly endless when walking to the other end w/o a flash light.

Security is high when an over shield is in place as seen in the above unit.
That is very clean looking.

 

[Big Blue Florida]

These are two 20 ft refrigeration units.
The roof is an old metal 20 ft wide roll up door.
Used treated 2X6s as cross members. Screwed down w/ SS fasteners.
Made ''J'' hooks to help hold roof to top container corners.
Note air space under container.
Set on RR ties.

 

[arizona98tj]

I called it a "single use" meaning it was used one time, then sold....your "1 tripper", same difference. And yes, they do cost more than one that has been around the world many times. This one has doors at both ends which is great because we all know that whatever it is you want to get out of the container, it is always going to be at the far end.

I decided to use it to store my Polaris 4x4 and some other things which had been in the garage prior to my getting the MF. The AC power in the garage, to run the tractor's block heater in the winter, was the decision maker as to what was getting stored where. Once I have about 8" of snow on the ground, the Polaris is put away for the winter....and the storage container sits until spring.

 

[arizona98tj]

Very nice! Is that a full size? What did you pay if you don't mind?

Yes, it is regular 20' container with doors at both ends. The cost was just under $3700 delivered. More info and pics here.

 

[ning]

(Sorry to necro an old thread)

I'm preparing a site for a container. I see posts stating that you should put the container on railroad ties, and some mentioning PT wood. However, PT wood in metal contact will likely increase rust...

So, questions:
- Will a container last well if you put it on a level bed of large gravel?
- If it's really best to put it on RR ties, how much of a gap should be beneath the container? I'd like to limit the ability for critters to live under it..
- How many ties would be good to use for a 40' container?
- I'm unfamiliar with the top of the container - if it's level, will water stand on it and rust it out?
- Should there be any tilt to the container - I understand that side-to-side can cause difficulty with door closing, but if there's a bit of front to back tilt for drainage, will that stress it at all?

Thanks!

 

[Big Blue Florida]

We use a lot of containers but rust is a factor here.
Rain is a constant. We lean all to one side to reduce puddles on top.

We also clean the tops & paint the topsides for another step of protection.
Never had a door stick from the listing to one side.

Cinder blocks for the under side to keep down the the under rust. Air movement helps to ****** rust.

As far as critters are concerned moth balls are used inside & under.

Our refer containers are mostly stainless steel & aluminum & are near air sight.
They are a bit shorter inside due to the o/s compressor & control box etc.
No wood floors so we fitted plywood to make them easier to slide items about.

Everything is well above grade & at least 6 inches.

 

[CMV]

(Sorry to necro an old thread)

I'm preparing a site for a container. I see posts stating that you should put the container on railroad ties, and some mentioning PT wood. However, PT wood in metal contact will likely increase rust...

So, questions:
- Will a container last well if you put it on a level bed of large gravel?
- If it's really best to put it on RR ties, how much of a gap should be beneath the container? I'd like to limit the ability for critters to live under it..
- How many ties would be good to use for a 40' container?
- I'm unfamiliar with the top of the container - if it's level, will water stand on it and rust it out?
- Should there be any tilt to the container - I understand that side-to-side can cause difficulty with door closing, but if there's a bit of front to back tilt for drainage, will that stress it at all?

Thanks!

You can put them on gravel but that's a lot of prep and expense. Will settle some, so would have to be leveled out again after ~6 months or so if you want it level.

The reason for RR ties, blocks, lumber, etc is to get a little airflow under it and prevent moisture from the ground coming up thru the floor. If you were to put it directly on the ground or your gravel bed held water, you might be fighting condensation issues inside of it forever. But a lot of people do just put them directly on the ground.

You only need support at the corners. They're designed to put all their weight on the four corners. More won't hurt anything, but that's all you need.

Yes, you want a slight slope from back to front unless yours has doors at each end and you will use both. If you have the doors open and catch a heavy rain, you want any water to want to find its way out of the front doors, not collect and pool inside.

The top is pretty much like the sides. Many have depressions from handling - a corner of another container hit the roof of yours somewhere making a depression/dent/divot. Places like that will collect water. If no damaged areas like that on top, it will shed water. In general you want them pretty level left-right. Too far out of level and doors can become difficult to swing. I have mine very slightly out of level to make water run to one side - i put a gutter on it and collect rainwater. Otherwise, it won't really collect water on the roof so you don't have to worry about that.

Mine is dark red/rust color. I painted the top a real light loam green color on mine. Thought that might help make it a bit cooler inside, but really just wanted to help with rust prevention and make it blend in a little better.

I had no luck with cinder blocks or solid concrete cap blocks for supporting mine. They all cracked and failed quickly. Small pieces of PT 2x8 stacked worked well for me and adjusting a corner 1.5" at a time makes it easy to get whatever type of level/angle you want.

 

[Cavjock22]

(Sorry to necro an old thread)

I'm preparing a site for a container. I see posts stating that you should put the container on railroad ties, and some mentioning PT wood. However, PT wood in metal contact will likely increase rust...

So, questions:
- Will a container last well if you put it on a level bed of large gravel? I would go to that expense unless the gravel is inexpensive. I would use solid cinder blocks, like mobile home style.. You only need to support the 4 corners...


- If it's really best to put it on RR ties, how much of a gap should be beneath the container? I'd like to limit the ability for critters to live under it.. A gap is good to keep air moving to keep the wood and metal dry... But I understand the critter problem...


- How many ties would be good to use for a 40' container?
I would use solid cinder blocks
- I'm unfamiliar with the top of the container - if it's level, will water stand on it and rust it out?
Yes but long time..
- Should there be any tilt to the container - I understand that side-to-side can cause difficulty with door closing, but if there's a bit of front to back tilt for drainage, will that stress it at all?
No tilt.. Doors will be effected..

Thanks!

see above for answers

 

[phastmac]

see above for answers

I put mine on a bed of large gravel. 2" to 4" size gravel. I put the bed of gravel on top of the ground in an area where there is good drainage, so I never see water around the gravel.

 

[Big Blue Florida]

If anyone elects the RR ties.....try to use new timber. There is more cost to this but they could out last some of us reading this now.

As for the critter & the needed air circulation, consider the 1/2 '' galvanized screen for your vent ports.

With the ties in place roll the screen over the top edge, down the outer face & tuck it under the bottom.
Use fence staples or something that is at least rust resistance.

Our cinder blocks are poured full of concrete when one shows signs of cracking we use the LS to lift a corner & replace w/ our new found used H Beam drops from a fab shop.

This is something some of you may want to consider too.
You can weld a couple together make a strong corner.

Depending on the use & traffic in & out the under supports may need some consideration.

 

[Big Blue Florida]

Here are a few pix of our supports for our containers sheltering our XG3025H

 

[Big Blue Florida]

Sorry about the the sideways pix but when you click on them they will right themselves.

This is all a home done job & the LS did the lifting.

The pix showing the 3 materials used (wood, steel & cinder blocks & one corner showing just steel & cinder block set in mother earth.
The steel was near free as these & other drop cuts were from a building fab job a good friend was doing a few years back.
They were going into the steel recycle bend. Pays to keep in touch w/ some fab shop owners & do a little tractor work for them.

The H beams were weld to the channel drop cuts for stability.
We tried to tape the two different corners just of reference for you.

 

[CMV]

That's slick with the roof covering area between them. I haven't been able to get cinder or cap blocks to work under mine. Ground must settle too much or something, but they crack very quickly. Those steel supports look incredibly stout though - no worries there

Yours look pretty high off the ground and the pic doesn't show the doors - can you drive in them?

 

[Big Blue Florida]

Here's a pix of our front doors & the span to cover the XG3025H.

By the way, all four doors open & lock shut smoothly. A bit stiff, cause they are not used as often as other doors on other containers.
There are grease fitting on most of these door hinges....suggest anyone lube them till the grease pushes outward.

We use our tractor too often to put it inside a container, plus we also use a security system around the place to alert us of unannounced occurrences.



This pix is of the front inside corner.
Note the RR tie is in the front of the steel but offering zero support.
This RR tie is for ramp support only, for when heavy objects are moved in or out.

These containers have zero wood in their construction, they're refrigeration units. But their outer frames are all steel & will rust.

 

[Big Blue Florida]

Suggestion about the under blocks support use.

We poured fill our blocks years back & some still cracked.
We also used a cement vibrator to better pack the wet cement. This allows some air to escape the casting & then you add to the sinking level on top.

Some of our best blocks were from an old demolished homestead, which we help the owner clean up & salvaged a few items. They were already filled.

Today we would look for solid blocks for use under containers & use pressure treated lumber between the top of the blocks & bottom of the container.
This should better lessen high pressure points upon the blocks.

We hope this helps.

 

[1Snowman]

Most containers are bent in one way or another. I have two with one having a bent floor - down an inch in the center over the length. I'd pass on anything less than 3 inches of clearance.

 

[CozInCowtown]

Take your tractor to the container dealer and give it a try!
I am sure they will not have a problem.
Fold down the ROPS!!

 

[DStrong836]

How about just airing down the tires a little?

 

[Jstpssng]

(Sorry to necro an old thread)

I'm preparing a site for a container. I see posts stating that you should put the container on railroad ties, and some mentioning PT wood. However, PT wood in metal contact will likely increase rust...

So, questions:
- Will a container last well if you put it on a level bed of large gravel?
- If it's really best to put it on RR ties, how much of a gap should be beneath the container? I'd like to limit the ability for critters to live under it..
- How many ties would be good to use for a 40' container?
- I'm unfamiliar with the top of the container - if it's level, will water stand on it and rust it out?
- Should there be any tilt to the container - I understand that side-to-side can cause difficulty with door closing, but if there's a bit of front to back tilt for drainage, will that stress it at all?

Thanks!

I put tar paper between the concrete and wood before building, to create a moisture barrier. It seems that you could do the same for the RR ties?

 

[Roadking52]

I am using a 40 HC (9?? to store a JD 3025e and a Polaris Ranger. Plenty of headroom and room to walk by both units. I can leave my rotary mower attached and store my spray rig with room left over. Mine cost $2776 delivered, but I am only about 150miles from the port it came from. Quick and easy security.