Shipping container for tractor storage

[Mark 42]

The top is pretty much like the sides. Many have depressions from handling - a corner of another container hit the roof of yours somewhere making a depression/dent/divot. Places like that will collect water. If no damaged areas like that on top, it will shed water.

I have an idea:
You could put some temporary support on the floor inside (e.g. railroad ties) to distribute the load... the use a hydraulic jack with a post to push up the center of the roof (and/or push out any dents) and make a slightly domed roof. Of course, you risk splitting a wall/roof seam if you push too hard, but as long as you don't overdo it, it seems viable.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Pictures of my friends container as promised.

 

[Doofy]

Pictures of my friends container as promised.

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Very nice but I sure wouldn't want that door falling on my head.

 

[Industrial Toys]

Nor a sadistic operator at the controls if you don't quite make it in on time. Cylinders are after all, double acting!

 

[Big Blue Florida]

I wonder why he did away w/ the original double doors.

What he offers is a bit of shade over the steel double originals.

 

[Industrial Toys]

He cut down a 40 foot and did not get the end with the doors for one. Yesterday, he mentioned that having barn doors would get "OLD". Maybe it's hard to put a man door in one side of a normal door.

OR, I guess, because he can. He is an incredibly talented and capable young man who astounds me every time I go there.

 

[newbury]

Pictures of my friends container as promised.

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Nice, but it looks like the hydraulics could cost as much as the container.

 

[Industrial Toys]

This young kid does hydraulic hoses, tubing and fittings. He has a better selection and stock than probably anybody in a 100 KMS radius. Maybe more. That helps! Shame doesn't begin to describe how he makes any of the "dealers" around here look! Remember, this is canada. He made me up some stainless hydraulic hose yesterday.

 

[Big Blue Florida]

We think he has done a first rate job.

Might have done things a touch different but it works for what he wants.

What is that on the roof ?

 

[RayfromTX]

I put tar paper between the concrete and wood before building, to create a moisture barrier. It seems that you could do the same for the RR ties?

Off topic but wanted to let you know that tar paper isn't a barrier to water vapor and is only a very short term barrier to liquid water. In your case it is going to be water in vapor form that you are concerned with. If there is moisture in the concrete slab, it will travel in vapor form through the felt paper into the wood plate. In fact, the perm rating of the felt paper is higher than that of of wood meaning it will travel more easily through the tar paper. One last note about this is that the permeance of the tar paper actually goes up in damp conditions. This occurs because the fibers expand in the presence of moisture and create more and larger pathways and more surface area for the water molecules to travel on and through.

Water molecules are smaller than small. One billion water molecules placed edge to edge is only 12 inches. They are around 3 angstroms across in size. Their molecular force will move them from wet to dry.

What you need to be using for your required isolation is a vapor barrier. Modified bitumen is a vapor barrier as is heavy polyethylene. If you have limited moisture levels in the concrete(not likely) and a strong drying potential out of the wood(possible) the wood may be able to dry as quickly as it is wetted and it will survive with tar paper but it is the drying making it survive and not the tar paper. We got away with this method for decades but as we build tighter and more well insulated buildings, we reduce the energy flow through the walls and; therefore, we reduce the drying potential. This has led to a need to manage the wetting more effectively. BTW, the blue foam that is used between plate and slab is also not a vapor barrier. It is intended to act as a gasket for air leakage.

The code says that any wood in contact with concrete must be pressure treated. If you use a vapor barrier, it is no longer in contact but if you use tar paper, it is effectively still in contact.

I'm sorry for the off topic post but this is an important issue. It also explains rust forming on steel in contact with concrete. Hopefully others can use this info to help make decisions on equipment storage solutions.

 

[Industrial Toys]

What's on the roof? I thought a mattress at first sight. I think it's just some checker plate bed for a truck or something, stored out of the way.

 

[Garson]

Sorry to be negative about container storage, but if you go to the building suppliers and ask for second grade lumber you can build a stud framed storage building near the same price. Used steel roofing will help keep the price down. Use 4" of gravel for foundation and floor, set the walls on RR ties or flagstone if that is cheeply available, and then you can have a 9' high, 9' wide sectional door that most tractors will pass nicely through. Make it 12' wide and you can have a side workbench and room to hang hoarder things- chains, welding materials, etc. Even if it does cost you more, you will thank yourself every time you enter the shed and your construction skills might soon have you building more storage. Vertical boards for siding is a real saver also. Never throw anything away! : )

 

[Industrial Toys]

I got my 40 foot container for nothing and found someone to move it a hundred miles for peanuts.

Owning one though, I can say they have their merits. With all kinds of other buildings around here, always needing this or that, a shipping container is pretty much maintenance free and indestructible. No worry about wind or ice storms, heavy snow. None of that. Animals won't damage them. That in itself is worth alot.




Only had it a few days here. Stood here for a year or two. then painted it GREEN and moved it into a forest, to make room for a drivewhed. That's anohter plus. You can readily move them.

 

[navyjoe]

I知 thinking about getting one, too. My tractor (with cab) is just over 8 feet tall. In this case, I need to go with a high cube container. A normal container is not tall enough. I contacted a local dealer and a 40 foot high cube is $5500 plus delivery. Less than the cost of building a pole barn, plus it will be rodent-proof. I just had mice chew thorough some wiring and need a safe space for my tractor.

I have 25 acres with 2 tractors and 2 cats. No mice get near my tractors!:cool2:

 

[bruce0777]

Top of cab at a manufacturers reported height of 100.7in. I measured the entrance at 101.5in

Get a High Cube roof is very high.....I got two 40 ft shipping containers Over 5 years ago HC high cube one half of container is my tool boxes other half is a 8 N ford tractor. An hour after they dropped it on the ground I had it blocked with my forklifts help and moved in all my tool boxes too and dropped in a few drop cords for power and a gas 20 LBS propane bottle with heater and presto instant work shop work with lights $2200 deliver from wilmington NC Tiger Direct .com A few days after I bought the first one they dropped the price a $100 so I had them bring another one USED of course new was like $5200 with $400 shipping..or so... My other containers has anywhere up to four ford in it at any given times ford 3000 ford two of the 8n's and a John Deere 1944 They are too hot to work in during the summer if left in the sun between 10 am and 5 pm ..... ZERO regrets on my shipping containers !!! Animal & Bug proof water proof very secure buy a heavy duty Master lock for one or both doors and privacy proof no one knows whats in it...

 

[MoArk Willy]

I worked for a retail company that used these for excess seasonal storage. I usually was the person to purchase and locate them on property.
If you get a good container that doesn't leak it will last for many years....painting the top with mobile home coating will reflect the heat and help keep it dry.
The only word of advice I can offer is put it on blocks to allow air flow beneath. If you set it flat on the ground it will sink. Not much, but enough to hamper door fitment create a depression in the ground that will trap water.
After that happens rainwater will collect and stay under the unit. When that starts your floor will begin to rot along with the steel structure holding it up.
Keep an eye on the humidity in the container. If the walls start to sweat you have a problem that you must take care of.
Setting it directly on the ground may seem very handy but it is a sure way to start the rust and rot issues.

 

[bruce0777]

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[bruce0777]

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[m5040]

How hard is it to get out of the cab?

 

[Arizonacowboy]

Im toying with the idea of a shipping container for storing tractor and other equipment on our new property. The ID of the container door is 101.5 tall at its smallest point. Specs for the tractor im eyeing are 100.7in tall with Ag tires. I have no way to test fitment before purchase......



Thoughts please.

I was considering a container also but opted to build a covered 澱arn? no walls. I discussed it with my neighbor since the only place I could put it on my acre lot was adjacent to the property line. He said he didn稚 care so I built it for very little....10 years later he turns me in to the county for non permitted structures and set back violations. I have been cited by the county and have paid them $900 thus far in required fees and I have an attorney representing me as I am a 100% disabled Veteran. I have had to pay the attorneys $7,000.00 thus far in fees. Will not receive a final ruling until later this month but if I have to remove everything it値l be another 4-5 grand. But if I had chosen a container it would have not been a violation as it is not considered a structure!!!!!!! My situation is IN THE TOILET!!!!!!