Yanmar 2000BD Not started for 2 years

[bookman51]

Thank you for helping the lady.

Thanks. Just passing along some of the help I have gotten over the years.

 

[California]

That's good to hear you got it running! :thumbsup:


The brakes on these are simple. Two shoes expand into an 8 ? inch drum, same as old cars. This drum is on an intermediate shaft forward of the rear axle. Follow the brake linkage back, pull the cover, everything is obvious. The common problem on these is the shaft won't turn freely where it goes through that cover. Dis-assemble, clean, re-install. It is a good idea also to swap the leading/trailing brake shoes to equalize wear. Oil leaking past the seal behind that drum is less common, but more work to remedy.

With inconsistent hydraulic service I would clean the 'strainer' in the bottom of the transmission, and replace the fluid - slightly under 5 gallons.

See Hoye's parts diagrams related to these projects.

 

[mercdv]

Good deal, glad you got it running. If you decide to tackle the brake issue and it gets to the point where you need to start removing pads and springs, since it is drum brakes you might need to borrow a brake service kit. It makes things simple if you have to start removing the pads. Now that you have it running, I'll tap out and let California take over since he is more familiar with the specifics on the older Yanmars. I could help you if I was standing in front of it but I don't know the layout of them to mentally walk you through it like he does. bookman51 you certainly seem like good folk. I know she appreciates you working on that tractor for her and frankly so do some of us. Good luck with anything else you try to take on with regards to that machine. :drink:

 

[bookman51]

That's good to hear you got it running! :thumbsup:


The brakes on these are simple. Two shoes expand into an 8 ? inch drum, same as old cars. This drum is on an intermediate shaft forward of the rear axle. Follow the brake linkage back, pull the cover, everything is obvious. The common problem on these is the shaft won't turn freely where it goes through that cover. Dis-assemble, clean, re-install. It is a good idea also to swap the leading/trailing brake shoes to equalize wear. Oil leaking past the seal behind that drum is less common, but more work to remedy.

With inconsistent hydraulic service I would clean the 'strainer' in the bottom of the transmission, and replace the fluid - slightly under 5 gallons.

See Hoye's parts diagrams related to these projects.

Thanks. she does have a parts and service manual. I will have to take a look. Right now I am in the midst of changing a clutch in one of my tractors (Cub 154), and I do not know how much more I want to tackle right now. I appreciate the good information. P.S. I just looked at the parts diagram at Hoye. Does not look too bad to replace the brake pads. Of course, it depends on what is frozen up with rust and what kind of springs suddenly go sprong when I open up the cover. And eyeballing the tractor, it does look a little like tight working conditions getting to the brakes. I just changed out a headlight bulb on my Honda Fourtrax 300. One would think that a simple job, but then a previous owner had installed a wench, and I had to get it loose and moved around and then feel my way to removing and reinstalling screws. What should have been a 5 minute job was more like an hour and a half job. Thanks again.

 

[bookman51]

Good deal, glad you got it running. If you decide to tackle the brake issue and it gets to the point where you need to start removing pads and springs, since it is drum brakes you might need to borrow a brake service kit. It makes things simple if you have to start removing the pads. Now that you have it running, I'll tap out and let California take over since he is more familiar with the specifics on the older Yanmars. I could help you if I was standing in front of it but I don't know the layout of them to mentally walk you through it like he does. bookman51 you certainly seem like good folk. I know she appreciates you working on that tractor for her and frankly so do some of us. Good luck with anything else you try to take on with regards to that machine. :drink:

Thanks and see my response to California.

 

[California]

I wish I had those special brake spring pliers. As a substitute I grasp the hook part of the spring with small vise-grips, then use a long screwdriver as a lever against that.

Bookman, Yanmar used a thin paper gasket for a watertight seal between that brake cover and its housing. It isn't needed when you put the cover back on, because we don't run our Yanmars half submerged in a rice paddy like they were designed for.

Photo from Yanmar-Japan's 'Export' page:

 

[bookman51]

I wish I had those special brake spring pliers. As a substitute I grasp the hook part of the spring with small vise-grips, then use a long screwdriver as a lever against that.

Bookman, Yanmar used a thin paper gasket for a watertight seal between that brake cover and its housing. It isn't needed when you put the cover back on, because we don't run our Yanmars half submerged in a rice paddy like they were designed for.

Photo from Yanmar-Japan's 'Export' page:

Oh yes, now I recall working on the brakes on a Ford 850 a few years ago and using vise grips and a screw driver to get springs back on. I am kind of tempted to let the new owner do that, but I will tell him about the need for brakes. But who knows, maybe I will get a fresh wind and tackle it. If I do, I think I will bring it to my shop where my tools are, adn I can work inside. I suppose it is in the manual, but is there hydraulic fluid anything special or can I just use what I find at a local farm store? Thanks again.

 

[California]

The simplest fluid is sufficient. 'JD-303' equivalent is what Yanmar specified in their US manuals.

If you live in a cold climate - use the tractor for pushing snow etc - or have a Yanmar with PowerShift (A/T with hydraulic-activated controls) then later multigrade fluid is preferable.

I've found Autozone sometimes beats TSC's price on JD303. I think both come from the same Williams refinery.

 

[mercdv]

I wish I had those special brake spring pliers. As a substitute I grasp the hook part of the spring with small vise-grips, then use a long screwdriver as a lever against that.

That's old school....well...old school as in I stopped doing that once I found a friend who had the kit I could borrow. :laughing:

 

[California]

That's old school....well...old school as in I stopped doing that once I found a friend who had the kit I could borrow. :laughing:

Old school- yep! First car I opened the brakes to inspect was my '49 Chev. Swapped the identical leading/trailing shoes as I described above to get another year or two. And soon bought the brake spring pliers etc as needed because I did all my own work. Learned enough doing my own maintenance on old cars, out of necessity, to pass the tech part of a state teaching credential in automechanics.

Later I was no longer poor and had brakes etc done by a shop so I didn't keep tools that I thought I would never use again. But now, retired and playing with two elderly Yanmars - I'm back to hands-on. Neither Yanmar has needed a pro mechanic in the 15 years since I bought the first one. Its a combination of equipment designed to be owner-maintained, and remembrance of stuff I learned long ago. And as illustrated in my longwinded posts, my interest in sharing and encouraging others to do their own work continues.

These Yanmars are excellent quality and extremely simple. So long as one isn't killed by gross neglect, reasonable maintenance should provide good service for many years to come.

 

[mercdv]

That's great...I'm getting close to retirement too so I hope to settle down with a few tractors like you. I got 5 more years to go then I'm out. I'm more of a tech guy myself but I'd say I'm a fair mechanic. You are the type of person I like to sit down with so I can learn a few things. Sucks you are on the other side of the country from me. It is like I tell my boys..."If you want to learn something about a specific item, go find someone who owns one that is in good shape and who does all the work on it themselves." Unfortunately, I'm one of those true "jack of all trades." I can do just about everything and anything you throw at me on an above average level but I'm not a master of anything. My goal in 5 years when I retire is that I become the master of something. Not sure what that will be at this point but it will be something. I simply have a desire to learn as much as I can about as many subjects as I can. About 12 years ago, I decided tractors in the CUT range of tractor and below were going to be on the list of things I know. To give you an example, today I spent roughly 15 hours researching more tractor related subjects and that is nothing out of the ordinary for me. I'd say I typically spend at least 5-6 hours a day researching. I literally have six various technical books sitting on my coffee table that I'll read over the next couple of months. I crave knowledge but that has completely stifled my creativity. In my lifetime, I've had a few jobs where working on equipment was a major part of the job (golf course maintenance being one). I'm not great at mechanical stuff but I do have some decent skills. My area of true expertise is in computer/security fields. I've been doing that solid for over 25 years now. I love forums like this because I can give some advice in the areas I know something about and then I can tap out when I know someone else has more knowledge than me. Forums have also been a great resource for me once I figure out who really knows their stuff and who is full of crap.

In a nutshell, I've come to appreciate Yanmar because of guys like you, the old Yanmars, and the one I own...sorry JD...you can slap your name on it but we all know who makes it. You better believe when I get more land and more storage an old school Yanmar will be part of my collection.

 

[Scotty Dive]

If you live in a cold climate - use the tractor for pushing snow etc - or have a Yanmar with PowerShift (A/T with hydraulic-activated controls) then later multigrade fluid is preferable.

What is the multigrade option.....? That description is me....northeast with powershift and push lots of snow...

I have always used the tsc 303

 

[clemsonfor]

That's great...I'm getting close to retirement too so I hope to settle down with a few tractors like you. I got 5 more years to go then I'm out. I'm more of a tech guy myself but I'd say I'm a fair mechanic. You are the type of person I like to sit down with so I can learn a few things. Sucks you are on the other side of the country from me. It is like I tell my boys..."If you want to learn something about a specific item, go find someone who owns one that is in good shape and who does all the work on it themselves." Unfortunately, I'm one of those true "jack of all trades." I can do just about everything and anything you throw at me on an above average level but I'm not a master of anything. My goal in 5 years when I retire is that I become the master of something. Not sure what that will be at this point but it will be something. I simply have a desire to learn as much as I can about as many subjects as I can. About 12 years ago, I decided tractors in the CUT range of tractor and below were going to be on the list of things I know. To give you an example, today I spent roughly 15 hours researching more tractor related subjects and that is nothing out of the ordinary for me. I'd say I typically spend at least 5-6 hours a day researching. I literally have six various technical books sitting on my coffee table that I'll read over the next couple of months. I crave knowledge but that has completely stifled my creativity. In my lifetime, I've had a few jobs where working on equipment was a major part of the job (golf course maintenance being one). I'm not great at mechanical stuff but I do have some decent skills. My area of true expertise is in computer/security fields. I've been doing that solid for over 25 years now. I love forums like this because I can give some advice in the areas I know something about and then I can tap out when I know someone else has more knowledge than me. Forums have also been a great resource for me once I figure out who really knows their stuff and who is full of crap.

In a nutshell, I've come to appreciate Yanmar because of guys like you, the old Yanmars, and the one I own...sorry JD...you can slap your name on it but we all know who makes it. You better believe when I get more land and more storage an old school Yanmar will be part of my collection.

Why not buy this tractor, you kind of know the history and you can probaly pick it up at a fair price.

Also where in SC are you?

 

[California]

If you live in a cold climate - use the tractor for pushing snow etc - or have a Yanmar with PowerShift (A/T with hydraulic-activated controls) then later multigrade fluid is preferable.

What is the multigrade option.....? That description is me....northeast with powershift and push lots of snow...

I have always used the tsc 303

Tractor Supply's multigrade 'Traveller Premium' is the next step up from their single-grade '303' UTF.
Traveller Premium Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic Fluid, 5 gal. at Tractor Supply Co.

Multigrade flows better at low temperature. This will help the PS to shift more securely before it is thoroughly warmed up.

One of the customer reviews says this improved operation of his Powershift Yanmar, and lessened squealing in the hydraulic system.

 

[rScotty]

Apparently JD's venerable 303 spec has been obsolete for 40+years now. But in its day it was a darn good hydraulic fluid and became the standard. But today, since there is no legal specification or requirement for saying something meets the non-existant JD303 specs, anyone can truthfully say their oil meets a non-existant spec.

Some lube manufacturers even go so far as to "compare" their hydraulic fluids to the nonexistant JD 303 spec. Of course that's just marketing BS. Anyone can make any comparison they want to something that doesn't exist.

All too often, comparing to JD303 today is a catch phrase that enables irresponsible oil retailers to cash in on the premium prices charged for hydraulic fluid relative to other light oils.
You can see this philosophy in operation at most any tractor supply house. I'm guessing that most of supply houses don't even know what they are supporting.

My recommendation: Read some of the industry literature. Decide for yourself. An easy-reading & decent place to start is:
https://www.nu-tierbrands.com/site_...oser_look/did_you_know_john_deere_303_thf.pdf

Here is some legislation about products labeled as meeting JD303 from a farm state:
Consumer Protection Alert

Get smart, read up, decide for yourself
rScotty

 

[California]

Tractor Supply doesn't say much about their SuperTrac 303. The distributor claims it is suitable where JD 303 or J20A was specified. However for ambient temperature outside the range +32 to + 104 F and for equipment made after 1974 they note 'Misapplication may cause severe performance problems' and recommend their 'Premium Universal Tractor Hydraulic Fluid (J20C)' instead.
http://www.smittysinc.net/userfiles...erS_SuperTrac_303_Tractor_Hydraulic_Fluid.pdf

I wondered if SuperTrac 303 is the same as Warren's Coastal 303 that I used to buy at Autozone Answer: I see the MSDS's are different.
http://www.smittysinc.net/userfiles/productLiterature/SuperS_Tractor_Hydraulic_Fluid_SDS_051615.pdf
http://www.warrenoil.com/MSDS-Spec/SDS/Coastal/WUI027 - SDS - Coastal 303 Tractor Fluid.pdf

In researching that, I found both products now Discontinued at several places.

rScotty's link likely explains the Discontinued:

MDA Removes 303 Tractor Hydraulic Fluids From Sale, 303 Manufacturers Recall Product

Missouri retailers of tractor hydraulic fluid (303) have been notified by the Department that these products are misbranded because they fail to meet any current tractor manufacturer's specifications. The John Deere (JD) 303 designation is 57 years old and has been obsolete for 43 years. In addition, there are no specifications available for 303 Tractor Hydraulic Fluids and, as such, products making only 303 claims cannot be tested to assure compliance with any known specification.

... the Department sampled 14 different 303 fluids, many claiming to work in almost every tractor. All 14 of these 303 fluids failed to meet current specifications and were found to be underperforming to the point that damage was likely to result.

I see MDA also banned some deficient brands of antifreeze, ATF, and motor oil.

 

[clemsonfor]

Good deal, glad you got it running. If you decide to tackle the brake issue and it gets to the point where you need to start removing pads and springs, since it is drum brakes you might need to borrow a brake service kit. It makes things simple if you have to start removing the pads. Now that you have it running, I'll tap out and let California take over since he is more familiar with the specifics on the older Yanmars. I could help you if I was standing in front of it but I don't know the layout of them to mentally walk you through it like he does. bookman51 you certainly seem like good folk. I know she appreciates you working on that tractor for her and frankly so do some of us. Good luck with anything else you try to take on with regards to that machine. :drink:

I know I am probably late here. The brakes are simple on these. Most of the time getting something unstuck is the hardest thing. There 2 identical springs and identical shoes that can be flipped end for end for longer service. Also a cam pin that can be repositioned when the shoes wear down. I have a complete post on dissassembly and repair or fixing including the drum and even shaft seals.


The leak that was In the rear by the arms is probably the o ring on the lift arms. It's just to stop splashing fluid and stuff from running out, there is no pressure on it. Seems most of these leak from the arms. I have a post on this as well.
The hose that goes to the engine above the injector pump that is leaking is the blow by tube. Any small amount of oil here is just oil vapor that is pushed out the hose with the blowby. It forms the oily residue and drips out of the hose, this is normal and is fine. You don't have a problem if it does not look like a little exhaust pipe there blowing out smoke and slobbering oil all the time the engine is running.

The 3pt falling is probably due to a worn valve or mostlikely the big piston o ring. Winston and I both have detailed posts on removal and replacement of this o ring. I also kind of touch on the valve. There a few o rings in there but they do just wear out. But if your lift drops and does not return itself automatically I beleive your feedback rod is either missing or disconnected. Because if it starts dropping it should open the valve a little bit and allow more fluid to fill the lift piston. I guess the main o ring could just be that bad that it can't overcome the leak?

 

[clemsonfor]

Tractor Supply doesn't say much about their SuperTrac 303. The distributor claims it is suitable where JD 303 or J20A was specified. However for ambient temperature outside the range +32 to + 104 F and for equipment made after 1974 they note 'Misapplication may cause severe performance problems' and recommend their 'Premium Universal Tractor Hydraulic Fluid (J20C)' instead.
http://www.smittysinc.net/userfiles...erS_SuperTrac_303_Tractor_Hydraulic_Fluid.pdf

I wondered if SuperTrac 303 is the same as Warren's Coastal 303 that I used to buy at Autozone Answer: I see the MSDS's are different.
http://www.smittysinc.net/userfiles/productLiterature/SuperS_Tractor_Hydraulic_Fluid_SDS_051615.pdf
http://www.warrenoil.com/MSDS-Spec/SDS/Coastal/WUI027 - SDS - Coastal 303 Tractor Fluid.pdf

In researching that, I found both products now Discontinued at several places.

rScotty's link likely explains the Discontinued:



I see MDA also banned some deficient brands of antifreeze, ATF, and motor oil.

But it says they don't meet today's specs. That's not what the fluid claims?? The fluid claims it exceeds the 303 spec. Sure it's a 50 year old one and may not be a good option for your 10 year old JD that lists hy gaurd or whatever but that's not what the fluid was saying though, right??

 

[clemsonfor]

Why not buy this tractor, you kind of know the history and you can probaly pick it up at a fair price.

Also where in SC are you?

Got you confused with the OP. Sorry for confusion.

 

[California]

But it says they don't meet today's specs. That's not what the fluid claims?? The fluid claims it exceeds the 303 spec. Sure it's a 50 year old one and may not be a good option for your 10 year old JD

I think Missouri Ag claimed there is no valid 303 spec to compare these products against. Real 303 contained whale oil which is a superior lubricant but today anything containing it would be illegal to sell.

So conformance with the retired 303 spec is legally impossible and their assertions can't be true. I think Missouri Ag further claimed various brands of 303 aren't the same product, depending on vendor. And some vendors of 303 claim it is suitable for nearly every tractor, a lie that could lead to expensive damage.

So in the absence of any standard to compare present '303' against, they banned it in that state to protect their consumers.


I run the stuff in my simple manual-transmission YM240 and in my backhoe. I think anything roughly similar to UTF is sufficient for these. For harder commercial service, I would probably step up to modern name brand lubricants.

For the PowerShift YM186D I think uniform viscosity and proper detergent additives are more important to keep the hydraulic valve bodies and clutches in good condition so I use J20C-conforming Traveller Premium. Still a cheapskate choice, but I think that is sufficient.