Yanmar 2000BD Not started for 2 years

[bookman51]

I tried to start the tractor this evening. Battery charged up fine and engine turns over fine. But no start. Checked fuel. It is,getting to the filter but not out if the filter. Took fuel line off going into filter and fuel came out. Made sure fuel valve on and tried to bleed it. Nothing. Took fuel line off going out of the filter with valve on. Nothing. Tomorrow i am going to get a new filter. If it were one of my 40s and 50s farmalls i would say screen at top of sediment bulb plugged with crud. Dont know about this tractor but i hope to find out tomorrow.

 

[California]

IIf it were one of my 40s and 50s farmalls i would say screen at top of sediment bulb plugged with crud.

The outer side of the paper filter serves the function equivalent to that Farmall screen.

Tomorrow while you have the filter bowl off, turn the shutoff back on and verify that fuel is arriving at the (missing) filter bowl.

Then keep in mind the recommended bleed sequence to refill the bowl and the line beyond the bowl:

1) bleeder screw by the shutoff. (bowl input) Bleed until no bubbles.

2) screw to the right of that. After the bowl fills, fuel should come out that bleeder without bubbles.

3) bleed the screw down on the pump inlet fitting.

Observing fuel at those three bleeders, there is no need to disconnect fuel lines.

And the common wisdom is that there is never a need to open the high pressure lines beyond the fuel pump. The pump will eventually push any air out through the injectors so don't introduce more!

I would bet that rather than a totally blocked filter element, you have air somewhere before the fuel pump.

 

[bookman51]

The outer side of the paper filter serves the function equivalent to that Farmall screen.

Tomorrow while you have the filter bowl off, turn the shutoff back on and verify that fuel is arriving at the (missing) filter bowl.

Then keep in mind the recommended bleed sequence to refill the bowl and the line beyond the bowl:

1) bleeder screw by the shutoff. (bowl input) Bleed until no bubbles.

2) screw to the right of that. After the bowl fills, fuel should come out that bleeder without bubbles.

3) bleed the screw down on the pump inlet fitting.

Observing fuel at those three bleeders, there is no need to disconnect fuel lines.

And the common wisdom is that there is never a need to open the high pressure lines beyond the fuel pump. The pump will eventually push any air out through the injectors so don't introduce more!

I would bet that rather than a totally blocked filter element, you have air somewhere before the fuel pump.

Thanks but if the fuel filter not blocking it would i not have fuel flowing out when i take the line going out of the filter off and turn the fuel on? I guess i will find out later this morning. Thanks again.

 

[California]

Any news?


Guys I think he got it running and is out joyriding, having too much fun to come indoors and post.

 

[clemsonfor]

if you follow the bleed procedure esp after you put a new filter in I but this thing roars to life.

 

[bookman51]

Any news?


Guys I think he got it running and is out joyriding, having too much fun to come indoors and post.

Sorry, but it has been raining here and I ran into other things I needed to do first. I plant to get back to the tractor late this afternoon and will give a report when I do. Thanks for all the good advice.

 

[bookman51]

Sorry, but it has been raining here and I ran into other things I needed to do first. I plant to get back to the tractor late this afternoon and will give a report when I do. Thanks for all the good advice.

I worked on the tractor late this afternoon. The fuel on and off switch was not seated properly. I got it reseated and got the fuel turned on. I bled the lines at the proper places but then it looks like there is a leak in the fuel line between the fuel filter and the injector pump I got the tractor started but it only ran for a few seconds and died. I assume maybe air was getting into the fuel line. So, tomorrow I am replacing the fuel line. In addition, the battery did not stay up long. So, putting in a new battery tomorrow. Good news that the tractor runs; bad news is that it will not run long.

 

[mercdv]

Since you decided not to drain the fuel at least use a glass jar or glass cup to check it for water before you start letting a bunch of it run through the engine. It will let you know whether or not the fuel could be causing rough idle if you experience that once it is running. The best time to sample it is while you have a fuel line loose or changing the fuel filter so you don't have to take one off again later. Glad you got it to run for a bit...that is a good sign.

 

[California]

...use a glass jar or glass cup to check it for water...

These have a semi-transparent filter bowl where water will be evident, and I think he said he had that filter bowl off to diagnose why fuel wasn't arriving to the bowl. As you noted, it still would be a good idea to dump the filter bowl into a small jar to better see any water.

Here's a photo I posted long ago showing the Yanmar filter bowl, the new one in the photo. Installing the proper fuel filter assembly was one of the minor things I needed to remedy when I bought a sound but neglected YM240 in 2003. It had an aftermarket fuel filter, so I went to a gray-market importer and bought an OEM Yanmar filter assembly that I watched them take off a (VN) 'Factory Reconditioned' warranty return tractor.

As shown in the photo, the 'Factory Reconditioned' bowl and element were clearly salvaged from something unrelated! That stubby filter element and bowl were never used by Yanmar. I then bought the proper element and bowl from Hoye.

Yanmar had a shorter filter element but not as short as this mystery element in the photo. This one doesn't even touch the bottom of the bowl to hold it snug against the outlet pipe it slips onto. The photo is an illustration how the VN 'Factory Reconditioned' Yanmars may have been built from mismatched parts.

Bookman51 we're all rooting for you! I think you'll love it when you get the minor bugs out of it.

 

[mercdv]

These have a semi-transparent filter bowl where water will be evident, and I think he said he had that filter bowl off to diagnose why fuel wasn't arriving to the bowl. As you noted, it still would be a good idea to dump the filter bowl into a small jar to better see any water.

I figured it would be easier for him to see it in the jar because who knows how dirty or discolored his fuel bowl might be and I didn't recall if the 2000BD has a water indicator ring in the bowl like some other tractors do. You know how it is...kind of hard making suggestions without seeing photos of the tractor he is working on. I'm certainly not that knowledgeable about the specifics on the Yanmar like you are. I am just super eager for him to get it running successfully. I'm probably being a little overkill on the fuel thing but I encounter so many tanks with water in them, stale fuel, or gummed up fuel lines that I just default to draining the tank to start fresh on items that sit 2+ years. Well, that is on anything that has less than a 10 gallon tank. I'm not about to drain a 55 gallon boat tank without testing the fuel first....lol. OKAY OKAY...I'll shut up about fuel now and will stop bringing it up. :laughing:

I'm hoping after he replaces the line that she fires right up and there will be no need for anything else but I'm here to offer suggestions in case she doesn't. Feel free to correct me if I suggest something stupid or say something wrong. I know enough to know there is always someone out there that knows more than me and can teach me something new.

 

[California]

I'm probably being a little overkill on the fuel thing but I encounter so many tanks with water in them, stale fuel, or gummed up fuel lines that I just default to draining the tank to start fresh on items that sit 2+ years. Well, that is on anything that has less than a 10 gallon tank.

... I know enough to know there is always someone out there that knows more than me and can teach me something new.

We all learn from one another in this Yanmar forum. The 'YM' Yanmars are orphans, with the US versions rudely abandoned when Yanmar departed the US market in the 80's (to go build the smaller John Deeres) and the near identical Japan-market YM's refused any support by Yanmar-USA. So the conversations here, and the parts from Hoye, are what keeps these top quality machines viable as they move past the 40 years old mark.

Your experience is clearly broader, while I and a couple of other frequent posters here have owned for many years the US or Japanese versions of what Bookman51 is working on. My own experience in 2003 was near identical to what he is doing right now. I was told my YM240 had been semi-abandoned for a decade (and it looked it!) and run only occasionally when the owner needed to use the loader. The fuel smog burned my eyes so bad that I'm sure it was pre-1994 full-sulphur diesel that easily could have been many years older than that since the seller had an old rusty elevated tank that sat unused for the same decade that my Yanmar had been infrequently used. As soon as that aged fuel was replaced starting became effortless. Based on limited experience I think fuel up to maybe 5 years old is no big deal aside from water or algae contamination and that will be apparent in the filter bowl.

Back then I spent a month on stuff just like Bookman, putting that original fuel filter on it, replacing the trashed idiot-light cluster that was dangling down past my knee, replacing fluids and filters, the smashed headlights, tightening every bolt which ended the squeaking as it rolled along. Now in the 15 years subsequent it has needed near nothing. All it needed for a second life was substantial neglect remedied and then rational maintenance. I expect Bookman's experience will be similar.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Wow.. it actually started after sitting?? that is amazing..
I would have thought the injection pump & injectors would have been frozen solid from old fuel.. and engine oil..
I love to hear stories about "barn finds" & old machines, sitting for YEARS that roar to life.!! {w/ a little TLC}
I did one last week that sat for years, was overheated & had a cracked head.. he paid 200.00 for it..
The customer replace the head, changed the oil & drained & cleaned the tank BUT it was REAL slow to start & wouldn't idle, AT ALL..
I got the pump & injectors.. rebuilt them & gave them back to the customer..
He called me a few hrs later to tell me it was purring like a kitten..
The inj. pump was gummed up so bad from old burnt engine oil, that the control rack would barely move BY HAND.. let alone w/ a wimpy governor spring in the engine..
The injectors were just as bad.. the spray pattern was all over the place, instead of a nice cone pattern..
HE HAD LESS THAN 350.00 in fuel system repair, 200.00 for the tractor & IDK what he paid for the head.. BUT.. he's got himself a REAL NICE running machine for less than $1000.00..

 

[rScotty]

We all learn from one another in this Yanmar forum. The 'YM' Yanmars are orphans, with the US versions rudely abandoned when Yanmar departed the US market in the 80's (to go build the smaller John Deeres) and the near identical Japan-market YM's refused any support by Yanmar-USA. So the conversations here, and the parts from Hoye, are what keeps these top quality machines viable as they move past the 40 years old mark.

Your experience is clearly broader, while I and a couple of other frequent posters here have owned for many years the US or Japanese versions of what Bookman51 is working on. My own experience in 2003 was near identical to what he is doing right now. I was told my YM240 had been semi-abandoned for a decade (and it looked it!) and run only occasionally when the owner needed to use the loader. The fuel smog burned my eyes so bad that I'm sure it was pre-1994 full-sulphur diesel that easily could have been many years older than that since the seller had an old rusty elevated tank that sat unused for the same decade that my Yanmar had been infrequently used. As soon as that aged fuel was replaced starting became effortless. Based on limited experience I think fuel up to maybe 5 years old is no big deal aside from water or algae contamination and that will be apparent in the filter bowl.

Back then I spent a month on stuff just like Bookman, putting that original fuel filter on it, replacing the trashed idiot-light cluster that was dangling down past my knee, replacing fluids and filters, the smashed headlights, tightening every bolt which ended the squeaking as it rolled along. Now in the 15 years subsequent it has needed near nothing. All it needed for a second life was substantial neglect remedied and then rational maintenance. I expect Bookman's experience will be similar.

Yes, well said! That's why Yanmars are so much fun to work with.They were designed to last a long time and be rebuildable. I like to think that every once in a while something mechanical comes along that is such a combination of decent price, inspired design, and quality construction that it becomes a cult machine. Like the old BMW motorcycles, vintage Chevy PU trucks, Colt revolvers, South Bend lathes, .....it's a long list and an inspiring one. On this forum we tend to think that the older pre-modern YM model Yanmars - US and Greys both - are contending to become cult tractors. We'll know in another 20 years or so. In the meanwhile, the "YammerHammers" will just keep on keeping on. The quality and inspired design is certainly there. Yanmars were among the first of the compact tractors imported to the USA, but few know that they weren't initially designed for US consumers. These little tractors had been manufactured for years as a popular farm tractor for Asia's little irrigated farm plots. That's the land they grew up on and where they got to be so good.
rScotty

 

[mercdv]

We all learn from one another in this Yanmar forum. The 'YM' Yanmars are orphans, with the US versions rudely abandoned when Yanmar departed the US market in the 80's (to go build the smaller John Deeres) and the near identical Japan-market YM's refused any support by Yanmar-USA. So the conversations here, and the parts from Hoye, are what keeps these top quality machines viable as they move past the 40 years old mark.

Your experience is clearly broader, while I and a couple of other frequent posters here have owned for many years the US or Japanese versions of what Bookman51 is working on. My own experience in 2003 was near identical to what he is doing right now. I was told my YM240 had been semi-abandoned for a decade (and it looked it!) and run only occasionally when the owner needed to use the loader. The fuel smog burned my eyes so bad that I'm sure it was pre-1994 full-sulphur diesel that easily could have been many years older than that since the seller had an old rusty elevated tank that sat unused for the same decade that my Yanmar had been infrequently used. As soon as that aged fuel was replaced starting became effortless. Based on limited experience I think fuel up to maybe 5 years old is no big deal aside from water or algae contamination and that will be apparent in the filter bowl.

Back then I spent a month on stuff just like Bookman, putting that original fuel filter on it, replacing the trashed idiot-light cluster that was dangling down past my knee, replacing fluids and filters, the smashed headlights, tightening every bolt which ended the squeaking as it rolled along. Now in the 15 years subsequent it has needed near nothing. All it needed for a second life was substantial neglect remedied and then rational maintenance. I expect Bookman's experience will be similar.

I think the difference I have seen now is that the new fuel just doesn't last as long as the old fuel because of the reduction in sulfur content. It now seems to grow the "nasties" faster and gum up sooner, imho. That fuel mandate started in 2006. Before that, I didn't see much problems in my diesel vehicles even after they had been sitting for a really long time. It has been a different story recently for me.

I think it is funny what you say about the Yanmar. I'm sitting here with my Yanmar that happens to have JD written all over it. I love my little JD (Yanmar....cough cough). The only thing I don't like is the possible rear PTO issue because of the cruddy Tuff Torq design but that isn't Yanmar's fault. I've always loved the looks of the old Yanmars and the Mitsubshi. I actually surf looking for those to come up on CL daily. The only problem...I have no place to keep them so I just look at the deals and dream...lol. There is a Yanmar YM2210 sitting on my local list that looks like it was well kept and going for a decent price if it isn't a scam and I'm bummed I cannot go look at it. I've heard a lot of good things about the Yanmar and I really want an older one. That is why I have been lurking in this sub-forum. I'm hoping to retire in a few more years so I can start looking at moving out of the suburbs and start my tractor collection. I'm gathering knowledge so I can one day make that dream a reality. I'm just a giant idiot with a wrench that likes to tinker...lol.

 

[bookman51]

I am still slowing working on the tractor. I got a new fuel line today. I had the local auto place test the battery and it will still hold a charge. About 95% of the time when I do this, they say of course you need a new battery, but the folks at this place are old school and I trust them. So I am going to charge it up again and give the tractor a shot again tomorrow. I probably will replace the fuel filter at the same time. Yesterday I was working in a light shower. I got it run for a few seconds, but then the battery got weak and I discovered the fuel leak between the fuel filter and the injector. I will let folks know how it goes.

 

[California]

You are starting it with compression relieved for the first couple of revolutions, no?

And I wouldn't make a trip to town just to get a new fuel filter element. They are good for years. If the present element and bowl look clean, that's sufficient for the moment. One other point: YM240 and I assume YM2000 came with a strainer in the neck under the fuel fill cap. I suggest order this from Hoye if you don't have it.

 

[mercdv]

If you can, post a few shots of what you are looking at with the fuel filter bowl just far enough away to see some of the lines coming in/out of it. It will certainly give us a better idea of the condition of things so we can make better suggestions. California is right that you don't need a new filter just yet since you didn't drain the whole system. If you feel inclined you could rinse the filter real well with fresh fuel, just take a small can of fresh fuel, drop the filter in for several minutes, and then dunk the filter in and out several times. It probably isn't necessary at this stage of the game. Ignore what I said initially about the fuel filter because that was only if you were going to drain the whole system and start fresh. I'm in 100% agreement with California at this point. You might have to circle back around to something once you plug all the leaks. Also remember that it is a 12 volt system so you can use your truck battery to assist when the other battery gets too low.

 

[normde2001]

I am very easily confused, but how can the battery not hold a charge for you, yet the shop says it is good. Charge to 13.2 v and let sit for a day, (of course properly filled with distilled water), unattached, (after trying to start the tractor). If it maintains 12.8 v or so it is good, if 12.5 or less, replace it. BTW, my YM2000B has a clear glass filter bowl and I can tell at a glance if there is water or anything but diesel in the bowl.

 

[bookman51]

I got the tractor started today. I replaced a leaking fuel line from the fuel filter to the fuel injector pump. I charged up the battery. Cleaned up the oil filter bowl and replaced the oil filter. And, it fired right up. I drove it about 20 minutes.

There are a few problems. The right rear wheel was frozen up, but it came loose with some persuasion. The owner before he got sick had told me that the brakes needed work. I have not looked at the manual, but does anyone know how hard the brakes are to work on them? Looks like an exterior brake mechanism, which might make it easier.

The box blade on the rear end slowly came down as I drove. I would stop and lower the lever clear down and then bring it back up, and the box blade would come up. I don't know if by setting that some seals started to leak or not. I did this several times.

Also, I raised the loader bucket, but as I drove down the road it could not operate the bucket or the loader. I stopped and eventually it started working again. By the time I finished driving the tractor and had parked it, the loader, loader bucket, and rear blade seemed to be functioning fine. I did not check to see if fluid was low, but did not see any leaks in any of the hydraulic hoses, etc. I don't know if fluid low or air or water got into the line. Anything particular I should know about the hydraulics of this tractor?

There is some fluid coming out of a hose that goes into the engine above the fuel injector pump. No much fluid but some.

There is a small leak in the rear end near where one of the lift arms comes out. It is not much, I could live with it if were my tractor.

By in large, a neat little tractor. The widow was quite happy to get it running. She said her late husband has among his happiest when he was out on the tractor, and hearing it run brought back some memories. Thanks for the help.

 

[winston1]

Thank you for helping the lady.