L2501 - Liquid Ballast Options

   / L2501 - Liquid Ballast Options #42  
Since the original question was about the various options, what is wrong with Rim Guard (beat juice)? At least according to their sales literature, does not seem that much more expensive than some of the other options discussed here.

Disclamer, I have Rim Guard. Was part of the deal on my new tractor and therefore was not a significant cost in the overall deal.

Buy the way, if you are wondering how much fluid it is going to take to fill your size tires, the Rim Guard website has a huge table of volumes for tire sizes. It is a downloadable PDF.
 
   / L2501 - Liquid Ballast Options #45  
You may want to consider a rear weight box instead;unless you are using a rear blade for snow removal.May-be a combination weight box and rear blade.
Based on my experiences a decent 5' rotary cutter, 200lbs of crap on the back (far back for more leverage) of said cutter AND loaded rears isn't enough. At least when pushing the loader hard.
 
   / L2501 - Liquid Ballast Options #46  
Well my rears were loaded with NAcl and some leaked.
Not pretty!
So with new tires installed I now have 'beet juice' as ballast.
I was lucky as the truck tire shop was well equipped and wire brushed my pitted rims and painted them B4 installing my new tires.
Problem was the new tires weather checked so badly over 6 months that they offered complete credit (well replacement) except they no longer manufacture them any more.
SO, today I have $900. new tires very weather checked and no alternatives but possibly to drain them and get them foam filled.
Wish I had known that B4 replacing the 'shoes'.
Making matters worst I am having trouble finding a tire foaming facility.
It is that or to find a close truck tire replacement* (18" tires). So far the tire rep has been of no help. The tire MFG has changed ownership, like 3 times. (Goodrich became Goodyear and now is Michelin) and the rep won't answer my emails. (well he did the first and promised to call back next day, (not))

NB, I like my CUT, does all I want but the tire problem will get the best of me yet.

* as U know ratios need to be respected if U want to avoid drive train damage.
 
   / L2501 - Liquid Ballast Options #47  
Well my rears were loaded with NAcl and some leaked.
Not pretty!
So with new tires installed I now have 'beet juice' as ballast.
I was lucky as the truck tire shop was well equipped and wire brushed my pitted rims and painted them B4 installing my new tires.
Problem was the new tires weather checked so badly over 6 months that they offered complete credit (well replacement) except they no longer manufacture them any more.
SO, today I have $900. new tires very weather checked and no alternatives but possibly to drain them and get them foam filled.
Wish I had known that B4 replacing the 'shoes'.
Making matters worst I am having trouble finding a tire foaming facility.
It is that or to find a close truck tire replacement* (18" tires). So far the tire rep has been of no help. The tire MFG has changed ownership, like 3 times. (Goodrich became Goodyear and now is Michelin) and the rep won't answer my emails. (well he did the first and promised to call back next day, (not))

NB, I like my CUT, does all I want but the tire problem will get the best of me yet.

* as U know ratios need to be respected if U want to avoid drive train damage.
You might be surprised how long they least, even being a weather checked. You could drain them & put in a tube. Will likely Las a VERY long time that way without spilling any juice. Might not be the prettiest, but will be the cheapest.
 
   / L2501 - Liquid Ballast Options #48  
Run em til they blow.
 
   / L2501 - Liquid Ballast Options #49  
Let's see, -40C is the same as -40F. Some of us do tractor at -40. That's what heated cabs are for.

OP,

Why don't you stop diddling around and just put Rim Guard in your rear tires. Iirc, Rim Guard is good for -40F(C), and I can't feel any ill effects from running it in my tractor rears at a true -40F air temp (no cheating "wind chill" garbage).
 
   / L2501 - Liquid Ballast Options #50  
That's a clever mental math trick. But Celsius and Centimeters never really get used alot in the U.S. except for healthcare, lab work, and some instruction manuals. So I try to relegate conversions to my handy cell phone apps and keep my personal mental processing power available for math and memory. Like you - I learned some mental math tricks like doing square roots manually and I'm constantly catching errors at checkout counters.

Now if the U.S. switches to the measurement standards of metric like the rest of the world - I'll have to get yet another math method engaged :)

Lets see -40C = -40 x 2 = -80 - 8 = -72 + 32 = -40 F And the result of the formula is . . . . nobody wants to be outside on a tractor at -40 "anything" LOL.

That "mental math trick" was very useful to me in my past life.
International aviation weather reports/forecasts are all given in metric measure.
Telling 418 mostly American passengers that the temperature forecast for arrival in the US would be 13C, would not have been helpful to them.
Telling them it would be 55F was a lot easier for them to understand.
Easier for me too!
 
   / L2501 - Liquid Ballast Options #51  
...................................................

OP,

Why don't you stop diddling around and just put Rim Guard in your rear tires. Iirc, Rim Guard is good for -40F(C), and I can't feel any ill effects from running it in my tractor rears at a true -40F air temp (no cheating "wind chill" garbage).
As per OP:

"beet juice is not available in my area."
 
   / L2501 - Liquid Ballast Options #52  
You might be surprised how long they least, even being a weather checked. You could drain them & put in a tube. Will likely Las a VERY long time that way without spilling any juice. Might not be the prettiest, but will be the cheapest.

They are tubed. (as were the old ones)
As I approach 80 I just do not want a flat at -32 deg in the cold of winter so I was trying to be preventative.

Now really not wanting a mid winter failure I (BRR) wish to avoid a possible problem so I'll gladly accept a rough foam tired ride.

After all of that recently I came from doing my daughter's drive to finding my rear very deflated.
I pumped it up and after 6 snow events it has retained pressure just fine. Go figure.
That rear had even leaked ballast onto he snow. Only thing I can guess is that the ballast (beet juice) has sealed up whatever had caused the leak. Go figure.

I have had to do cold winter repairs in the past at real cold temps and did not enjoy that. (like changing a block heater at -30) No thanks! I won,but my fingers and toes lost out!
Shucks I don't take any chances, I leave my block heater on all winter! **** the hydro bill as long as it starts.
The local snow contractor would cost me $1000K to do my drive (if and when he gets around to me) so the hydro cost is acceptable.
Ain't country living great? OK the air is clear, fauna and flora interesting and noise pollution non existant. (as long as hydro power continues) internet is another topic. LOL.
 
   / L2501 - Liquid Ballast Options #53  
Ford 2000; gas 3cyl; 4/1 trans.....Here in Georgia we seldom get more than a couple days in the winter where the temperature is proceeded by a minus, thank God. So, I found a local contract fuel and lube company (they fuel heavy equipment on job sites) who was able to order me a 55 gallon drum of -20 degree WW fluid. I put some in front tires and most in back to get a bit more weight down low. Cost for the drum delivered was about $140. Front tires are tubeless, rears have tubes. No problems so far.
 
   / L2501 - Liquid Ballast Options #54  
I simply asked to get the opportunity to visit with someone that's witnessed this phenomenon. Kinda like Bigfoot. Haven't found anyone that can testify to this. If I chained my dog with only source of liquid being antifreeze, after a couple days he might drink it. Otherwise, ain't happening. :)

With liquid ballast my primary concern is rust. Certainly wouldn't use a product that's acidic.

You raise a very good point. Like many, (most?) I've been hearing about the dangers for so long that I have never wanted to risk it. Could it have been a problem at one time, so the AF manufacturers added a deterrent?
I discussed the possibility with my vet years ago, and he said that you only have about a 3 hour window to save your pet. If memory serves me they use a vodka drip to counteract the poisoning... it kind of reminds me of my college days.
 
   / L2501 - Liquid Ballast Options #55  
Sweet, isn't it.

Maybe it used to be. It's definitely not anymore. And another point from reading this thread what are you supposed to do with used antifreeze? There's plenty of places to recycling used motor oil but no such thing that I'm aware of for antifreeze.
 
   / L2501 - Liquid Ballast Options #56  
Maybe it used to be. It's definitely not anymore. And another point from reading this thread what are you supposed to do with used antifreeze? There's plenty of places to recycling used motor oil but no such thing that I'm aware of for antifreeze.

The first time that I saw antifreeze used as ballast was from a garage who was charging to install used antifreeze. We can get rid of it at times, as long as it isn't contaminated; but try gettingrid of 4 gallons which is mixed with oil because a head gasket failed. Then they wonder why people dispose of it improperly. :confused:
 
   / L2501 - Liquid Ballast Options #57  
I've always disposed of oil responsibly. Antifreeze I've dumped because I don't know what else to do with it. I'm lucky to catch half of it ever if I tried to dispose of it properly. Then after I flush the system I'd be dealing with 20 gallons of diluted antifreeze.
 
   / L2501 - Liquid Ballast Options #58  
I remember my father pulling the oil plug and letting it run onto the gravel driveway to keep the dust down... we've come a long ways since then. A lot of garages around here have waste oil burners and are happy to take oil oil; especially this time of year when they've been burning it all winter.
 
   / L2501 - Liquid Ballast Options #59  
OK, I for one am not a fan of filling tires I much prefer iron bolted on. I don't care for
3 pt weight blocks or depending on implements for rear ballast as far as I'm concerned they just get in
the way and are a pain to connect and drop all the time, that being said.
If you want the tires loaded for weight use the heaviest material you can, with beet juice not being available
and even when it is it's quite expensive. None of my tractors have liquid ballast at this time and I have repaired
and or replaced rims in the past from being filled with calcium and I have had flats and leaks on filled tires and
been doused with it a few times I'm going to say the best and most economical way to liquid ballast tires quite often
will be calcium chloride and water, yes it is corrosive use a tube and rinse and wash everything well if and when
you get a leak take the time to wash the rims and everything that could have contact with the calcium.
I had to repair a rim this last summer because it rusted thru on my 574 IH it is **** near 50 years old so a $300
rim broke out over 50 years wouldn't be to bad and I just did a bunch of welding to repair it didn't even spend the $300 for a new rim.
So in conclusion go old style and fill it with calcium chloride and water using a tube and rinse well, it will be moderately inexpensive
way to provide freeze protection and give you weight your looking for.
 
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   / L2501 - Liquid Ballast Options #60  
Down to votes now? I would go with windshield washer solution.
1. mild for the environment and the rim
2. Not too expensive - my tires each hold 30 gallons and the cold weather stuff would put roughly 470 lbs both tires - the -20f stuff can be had on sale for $1.50 a gallon at Walmart and other places or you can buy it by the 55 gallon drum for about $130 (plus shipping) here
3. Wheel weights are also great, if you can find them to fit but they are costly
4. I like having loaded tires myself, they help with FEL work but are NOT the end all/be all for a CUT with a heavy 4n1 bucket or grapple - when I take my BH off to swap it to my snow blower, for example, I find that my unloaded 4n1 (admittedly a bit too big for my tractor) makes my loaded rear tires so light that they can't gain traction in the snow and I have to move to 4wd to make way to my blower - I can't imagine how it would be without the loading.
 
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