Front plow or rear blade

[powerscol]

During this last storm I noticed the neighbor using his rear blade (angle type,, not box). He was driving forward and plowing behind. Did a good job. He did have so snow go over the top, but it is a BX unit. If it got too deep he used his bucket for some of the snow. It got me to thinking this might be another way to go. I do have a box blade, that will push straight back, but bucket works better.

There are lots of choices out there on both units - thoughts?

Meanwhile still looking for a good SSQA set up.

 

[Thomas]

I have that setup and like it a lot rear blade pull snow from buildings etc. scrape driveway down to gravel,front blade plow and push snow banks way back.

 

[Looking4new]

I have a rear blade and use the loader to shove the piles back. In previous winters when I was a lot younger I used a front end loader for snow removal, so I am no stranger to that system.
My snow blower didn't get on this year. My arthritic hands won't allow me to work with cold steel, cold nuts and bolts and cold tools.

 

[Deadman]

The rear blade makes you either back up non stop and strain your neck, or drive forward and drive down all your work and struggle as the tractor is always in the snow, so traction is reduced.
Front blade makes sense to me, but it far more expensive and complicated. Most use rear blade because its simple and cheap.

 

[Billrog]

I plow a few miles of rd. with a rear blade every snow fall never found it a problem. Far more versatile around buildings and you have the loader to pile the snow.

 

[powerscol]

Ok now for the question. Who makes a good rear blade that uses hydraulics, that can be rotated 180 degrees for backwards operation too. I am finding a lot of the hydraulic ones cant be turned around.

Happy new year

 

[powerscol]

I have that setup and like it a lot rear blade pull snow from buildings etc. scrape driveway down to gravel,front blade plow and push snow banks way back.

I am curious as to how you have the plow blade attached to the bucket? Can it be angled? Looks like a neat set up.

 

[nybirdman]

Be cautioned on "pushing"with any type of rear blade;your can break some expensive parts quickly.Tractors were designed to pull not push.
You don't need an hydraulic angle rear blade for snow removal;nice but you don't need it.Just a blade wider than your track when angled.
I use a 8ft.front blade and a 7ft.rear for my snow removal duties.
For anyone with a BX;Kubota sells a front mounted blade;I believe manual operation.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Ok now for the question. Who makes a good rear blade that uses hydraulics, that can be rotated 180 degrees for backwards operation too. I am finding a lot of the hydraulic ones cant be turned around.

Happy new year

There are several, but they are not cheap. Here are a few. Bison unit is probably the cheapest, but then you get what you pay for. I like the LP unit the best. Whatever you get, be sure to get skid shoes for it.

Land Pride
Bush Hog
Bison
Rhino

 

[Thomas]

Made with 1/4" steel.
Bottom plate from cutting edge to first curl in bucket,piece 1/4" plate added to bucket back side for strength.
Frame fasten in place with 4- 5/8" grade 8 bolts.
Front of frame weld 1/4" L's for support less stress on frame bucket when pushing.
2- 3/4" grade 8 bolts for pins.
Plow ears/pin holes have 2- 1/4" L's.

Manuel pin swing for blade setting.
Plow $100,Iron etc. $60.
7 years done everything I ask of it and more.

 

[Billrog]

The one I bought came ready for a hydraulic cylinder but I installed one myself because they wanted another $1,600 & I happen to already have a cylinder which cost no where near that price. If I want to plow backwards I just back up don't bother turning the blade less chance of bending the top link if the blade hooks on something.

 

[RjCorazza]

I have used a county line 7' rear blade for years, mostly plowing forward. I also usually just leave the blade in the forward position when plowing backwards. A big plus for me is while plowing unfamiliar driveways I can easily find the driveway edges by pushing the snow into the grass without tearing up turf.
I am in the process of acquiring a Landpride RB8426 with hydraulic angling. The blade can be turned 180 degrees, but it requires tools. I really don't anticipate ever turning it around though.

 

[Grouseman]

Be cautioned on "pushing"with any type of rear blade;your can break some expensive parts quickly.Tractors were designed to pull not push.
You don't need an hydraulic angle rear blade for snow removal;nice but you don't need it.Just a blade wider than your track when angled.
I use a 8ft.front blade and a 7ft.rear for my snow removal duties.
For anyone with a BX;kubota sells a front mounted blade;I believe manual operation.

I use a landscape rake, and I push a lot I hope I am not damaging any thing? Help me out on this with and suggestions thanks.

 

[Billrog]

Had a home made hydraulic rear blade for 20+ years now I've had one of these for the past 2 winters. Seems to be holding up well haven't broke it yet & I plow my skid trails with it.
MK Martin | Grader Blade

 

[camshawn]

I like the snow plough out front where I can see it. I have hydraulic angle so I can push the snow to the left while going down the hill instead of to the right going uphill. I have a back blade that I set at about 40 deg to the right and use a hydraulic cylinder to offset the whole blade further right a few feet (decreasing the angle) This allows me to push back the windrow into the ditch while keeping the tractor on the driveway. The fine control of the offset is handy around the gates and mailbox.
The front blade combined with the rear offsetable has cut the time to clear our driveway in half.
Cam

 

[powerscol]

There are several, but they are not cheap. Here are a few. Bison unit is probably the cheapest, but then you get what you pay for. I like the LP unit the best. Whatever you get, be sure to get skid shoes for it.

Land Pride
Bush Hog
Bison
Rhino

Thanks Brian - I am beginning to think to go back to a manual set unit. I see some are offset able too. The ones I really like can be offset and tilted to cut ditches with - could come in very handy around here for other uses.

 

[powerscol]

Made with 1/4" steel.
Bottom plate from cutting edge to first curl in bucket,piece 1/4" plate added to bucket back side for strength.
Frame fasten in place with 4- 5/8" grade 8 bolts.
Front of frame weld 1/4" L's for support less stress on frame bucket when pushing.
2- 3/4" grade 8 bolts for pins.
Plow ears/pin holes have 2- 1/4" L's.

Manuel pin swing for blade setting.
Plow $100,Iron etc. $60.
7 years done everything I ask of it and more.

Thanks for the pictures - I like what you did.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks Brian - I am beginning to think to go back to a manual set unit. I see some are offset able too. The ones I really like can be offset and tilted to cut ditches with - could come in very handy around here for other uses.

While any of the "good" units will run $2500 and up, look on e-bay. There have been several TBNers that have gotten $3000 units new, used for under $1500 and that would be well worth every cent IMO. I had a customer in southern Co that bought over $20,000 worth of implements, all basically new, just been sitting out on this guys ranch for $6000. :shocked: Some pilot that bought this stuff new and then never went out to his ranch. So the deals are there. Trust me, at the bare minimum get a unit that has all 3 functions, even manual and we can make the angle function hydraulic.

I want to get a Land Pride RBT3584 for my 32hp tractor, basically the same size as yours, but no $$$ to do that yet.

 

[powerscol]

Brian - we have similar taste. I was looking at the same unit RBT3584, What kind of pricing did you find. It also does not mention cushion valves, or are they needed? The other unit I liked was the RB3784, but specifications are a little less/ Brush Hog has a 91 series unit, but the mull board is not as high and tilt is less. No local dealer either.

Ill start searching locally - got a box blade to sell first, or the boss unit will kill me. I wish there was a way for Craig's List to notify me when there are postings on what I want.

Thanks for your help - this is looking like a better way to go for my snow conditions and the other work it can do.
Happy New Year

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian - we have similar taste. I was looking at the same unit RBT3584, What kind of pricing did you find. It also does not mention cushion valves, or are they needed? The other unit I liked was the RB3784, but specifications are a little less/ Brush Hog has a 91 series unit, but the mull board is not as high and tilt is less. No local dealer either.

Ill start searching locally - got a box blade to sell first, or the boss unit will kill me. I wish there was a way for Craig's List to notify me when there are postings on what I want.

Thanks for your help - this is looking like a better way to go for my snow conditions and the other work it can do.
Happy New Year

If I remember correctly, $2300 with no manual adjusters or hydraulics. So just the plain blade with skid shoes. I had thought about-considered the 91 series, but was finding costs to be higher and the actual moldboard is no where as nice as the LP unit. The RB3784 is an ok unit, but to much $$$ for what you are getting IMO. For just a few $$$ more you can have the RBT 3584 and that is simple a lot more blade.

At 700+lbs this is a very nice unit to be using behind our 30+hp tractors. Can actually get some work done with it.

This would be a little brother next to my RBT45108. You can definitely roll some dirt with these.