My NX5510H

[DieselBound]

3/8 would be fine. No reason to even use 1/2" on the front even you can stay 3/8 there also if you wanted.

I can't remember what options EA had when I ordered the grapple, other than AG or flat faced: I think everything is 1/2".

Really appreciate everyone's input. I've learned a lot in a very short period of time

Will be measuring for lengths of hoses and then place a parts order. Will also be needing to figure a mount for that bulkhead connection: or perhaps just kid of tie it up; note sure that I need a clean solution when I doubt that I'll be taking the FEL off (especially now with a good FEL).

 

[holeycow]

Grease all your electrical connectors that you can get at including the ground strap bolt.

Check all lines for abrasion points/routing. I put some heater hose around the airconditioner lines under the hood where they insisted on touching something sharp-ish. I pulled some wires out of the bottom corner of the cab tubing to have the loom guard contact an edge, rather than the small gauge wire insulation outside the guard. I put a few pieces of heavy tape here and there to protect some things...**** maybe.

Tiny details that can eliminate future issues.

Don't know about yours and I haven't seen it mentioned on here, but my 2013's windshield washer reservoir had a tendency to occasionally jump out of it's moorings (hitting the occasional bad bump). I fixed that by putting a piece of about 1" packing foam from something behind it to take up the jiggly space and snug it up. Been good for a few years now.

Thought I would mention that just for the heck of it and since you will be crawling all over your tractor pretty soon doing that install.

Oh, make sure the air intake system is sealed up proper. That one always worries me with any new motor.

You may have already done these things...sorry if I am preaching to the choir.


Anyway, good to hear your loader was replaced and everything is straightened out.

 

[DieselBound]

holeycow, thanks for the input. I'll review this thread for all such tips and look to apply them as I can: when I get my garage built I'll be able to go through things.

 

[DieselBound]

Doing some work the other day and encountered an odd situation. I was shifting into gear (lots of in and out of the tractor- safety switches are a pain!) and hit "M" and stepped on the travel pedal and nothing! I shifted into "H" (because the lever went into it fairly easily) and same thing. Poking around I decided to step on the reverse travel pedal- MOVEMENT! Step on the forward travel pedal and NOTHING. Can't recall what I did (perhaps flipping on/off the Linked Pedal switch?), but it started operating correctly again and I had no further issues.

Speaking of shifting, the shifting is really bad. I find that I'm constantly having to battle to get it to go in gear. It seems that altering the engine rpms helps.

Switched out the pallet forks for the bucket. More and more I can see how a front-mount camera is going to help. I believe that the replacement monitor is due to arrive later today: will have to wait as I need to get on with getting my woodshed built.

 

[DieselBound]

Looking over my bits for the hydraulics for the FEL 3rd function and was wondering whether I should utilize "adjustable" or standard fittings. Examples are for 90 degree elbows (which is what I need).

Standard:
2501-06-08 | 3/8" JIC Male x 1/2" NPTF Male Pipe 90°

Adjustable (# 9059-06-08):
9059 | SAE 37° Flare (JIC) x BSPP Adjustable 90º Elbow

Clearly, the adjustable one is quite a bit more expensive. Just wondering whether it's worth the added expense.

 

[Citydude]

I used adjustable. Especially useful in tight areas.

 

[DieselBound]

I used adjustable. Especially useful in tight areas.

Ack! With so many bits I lost track of what these were really doing. The elbow here would be used at the back end, the connection to the quick coupler. As such I'm thinking that it's moot to go adjustable because that elbow is going into the coupler and the coupler isn't fixed on the other side (going in to the female coupler): the lay of the hoses themselves will dictate how the elbow directs out from the coupler.

I was caught up thinking about the elbow that I'm attaching directly to the hydraulic top link, which ends up with no free movement/swivel as it anchors to the cylinder. Here an adjustable elbow makes sense (in order to fix/force the alignment).

 

[Citydude]

Ack! With so many bits I lost track of what these were really doing. The elbow here would be used at the back end, the connection to the quick coupler. As such I'm thinking that it's moot to go adjustable because that elbow is going into the coupler and the coupler isn't fixed on the other side (going in to the female coupler): the lay of the hoses themselves will dictate how the elbow directs out from the coupler.

I was caught up thinking about the elbow that I'm attaching directly to the hydraulic top link, which ends up with no free movement/swivel as it anchors to the cylinder. Here an adjustable elbow makes sense (in order to fix/force the alignment).

Yes, no need for the adjustable type on the couplers. I was thinking coming off your valve where alignment is paramount.

 

[holeycow]

On the hydraulic top link. Idk, but I just walked into Princess Auto in Grande Prairie, Alberta one day and in about 20minutes of humming and hawing I was out the door with a toplink, premade hoses, fittings, and bushings (cat1 to cat2 issues). Came home and in about 1/2 an hour I was picking up bales. I already had some good hardware to use for pins and a couple of hydraulic ends.

My problem is that I have to be really careful to lower and raise the 3pt with the toplink in the extended position or the outfit will "over centre" and be stuck in the down position. Not exactly stuck, but I would be sure to destroy something if I tried to raise the 3pt or extend the link.The cat1 link is a little too short in the closed position. It works really well except for this annoying detail.

You might wanna just go to a supplier and "build these things in your hands".

Anyway...

 

[bgruss75]

Speaking of shifting, the shifting is really bad. I find that I'm constantly having to battle to get it to go in gear. It seems that altering the engine rpms worked.

I had/have the same issue. Seems as it warms up to operating temperature it gets smoother to shift as well as the more hours I put on it. I'm up to mid 20 hours and things seem to be settling in.

 

[DieselBound]

On the hydraulic top link. Idk, but I just walked into Princess Auto in Grande Prairie, Alberta one day and in about 20minutes of humming and hawing I was out the door with a toplink, premade hoses, fittings, and bushings (cat1 to cat2 issues). Came home and in about 1/2 an hour I was picking up bales. I already had some good hardware to use for pins and a couple of hydraulic ends.

My problem is that I have to be really careful to lower and raise the 3pt with the toplink in the extended position or the outfit will "over centre" and be stuck in the down position. Not exactly stuck, but I would be sure to destroy something if I tried to raise the 3pt or extend the link.The cat1 link is a little too short in the closed position. It works really well except for this annoying detail.

You might wanna just go to a supplier and "build these things in your hands".

Anyway...

I'm all good on the top link: parts ordered several days ago. What I'm currently fussing about is hydraulics for a 3rd function to/on the FEL: lots of bits here because I'm going to put in another set of disconnects between the tractor and the FEL.

 

[DieselBound]

I had/have the same issue. Seems as it warms up to operating temperature it gets smoother to shift as well as the more hours I put on it. I'm up to mid 20 hours and things seem to be settling in.

I'm up to 7 hours. I seem to recall some folks mentioning lubing up some of the cables; one would think that the factory would have done this if it was of any help: seems that the behaviors would be reversed, in that new it would shift better and that over time, as the grease/lube wore off, it would get stiffer. Just kind of find it hard to believe that this is acceptable from the factory. I'll give it some time.

 

[DieselBound]

Good news/ bad news day on the tractor front.

Bad news: cab is leaking (again), and appears to be worse:



Dealer says that they just haven't had problems like this with cabs before.

Good news: replacement monitor showed up and tests good

Hydraulic bits for the top link are due to arrive soon. I was looking forward to getting this in and getting the monitor and cameras installed, but now the tractor is going to be back at the dealer's! I'm glad that I'm facing this when I don't have a big need for using the tractor.

 

[holeycow]

Unfortunately, most things are assembled "dry" at factories. Really annoying. Every bolt I take out I grease before putting back in. Just a light skim on the threads means that that bolt will come out easily in 20 years...

That is a real bummer about your leaky cab. Not typical of any cabs, although it does happen. Anything can be fixed. Just make sure they get it right. Shifting improves over time. Be careful with it. Don't force anything. My DK is still stiff at times with 1300 hrs. Some of it is me, some is the design. If I were a better shifter-man, the tractor would shift better. When I get it right, it shifts like butter. This happens a little better than 75% of the time now. Up from 50% or less when new. My old Deutz shifts like a sports car. My Kioti will too eventually, or at least like a decent pickup truck. I know yours is HST, btw.

Typical hood release issue for example: the release cable became dry very quickly, becoming stiff to operate. I have since lubed it thoroughly many times. I think the cable should be impregnated by now. The little pull release is getting smoother and smoother as things wear in. I am sure that I would have been locked out of my engine compartment by now if I hadn't diligently prepped the cable. Now I gotta keep the dirt outa there.

 

[cutthroat]

That is exactly where my NX6010 is leaking at. Having my headliner replaced next week. We (dealer and I) believe source of leak was from the grommet around the outside light wiring being unseated. Is your rubber grommet seated properly? Appears can be pulled out just by rotating light up or down. I have a thread in the Owning/Operating forum with pictures.

-Craig

 

[DieselBound]

That is exactly where my NX6010 is leaking at. Having my headliner replaced next week. We (dealer and I) believe source of leak was from the grommet around the outside light wiring being unseated. Is your rubber grommet seated properly? Appears can be pulled out just by rotating light up or down. I have a thread in the Owning/Operating forum with pictures.

-Craig

Craig, yeah, I recall reading your issue (and was wanting to revisit it).

Dealer says that they hosed it down pretty good and had no leaking. Not sure how well they went about it.

Although I'm pondering storing the tractor in my new garage, it will still get more than its share of exposure to rain (it rains a LOT here!). I really can't have a leaking cab. Funny, I spent years (on and off, and more as a very limited hobby) sealing up my old truck. My 23 year-old truck is more water-tight than the tractor! And this isn't a boast on the truck, either: I still haven't got it 100% sealed.

I'll call the dealer and pass along the note. On one hand I'd prefer to not have a water damaged headliner; on the other hand I don't know that I want to wait a long time for them to get a new one in and installed. If this is a factory issue then having to replace the headliner might be more incentive for them, factory, to do a better job sealing things up.

 

[holeycow]

You don't want that moisture to turn into stinky mildew...I would do my best to dry that up fast and keep it dry until your new headliner comes in.

Bummer.

Crooked loaders, leaking cabs; what is going on over there in Korea? Sheesh.

 

[DieselBound]

You don't want that moisture to turn into stinky mildew...I would do my best to dry that up fast and keep it dry until your new headliner comes in.

Bummer.

Crooked loaders, leaking cabs; what is going on over there in Korea? Sheesh.

Dealer has it now. Only a couple of days exposure. Will see whether they end up replacing the headliner or not: may not be needed.

 

[DieselBound]

Yes the fitting is actually a short straight bspp to jic then a jic to jic 90, to make it taller than the other hose, when I first put mine together I thought I was going to need to have that hose go over the top of the other one. Worked out better to just clock them both to the side, I just haven't installed my other short fitting back on.

Just discovered that a shorter fitting won't work! Once you have one installed there's not enough clearance to tighten a second one. I just picked up (from Tractor Supply) an NPT swivel adapter (female to female to connect to the fitting that was shipped with the cylinder) and an elbow (NPT to JIC). This stack of fittings really sticks up- 3" (not fully tightened); the other one is about 1" (not fully tightened).

Have not heard from the dealer on the status of my tractor. Been too wet to use it and I've been too busy with other things (wouldn't have had time to install the hydraulic top link or the cameras+monitor).

 

[vlcakc]

DieselBound: Not trying to be a smart a**, but was curious if you had second thoughts about dealer proximity since you posted on my thread given the issues you've had with you new tractor. Here's what you posted before:

"My Kioti dealer is probably a good 1/2 further away than my Kubota dealer. I didn't feel that the distance was great enough to be concerned with. I don't expect to be hauling the Kioti to the dealer's: it "might" happen, but generally I'm not seeing that the [CUT] tractor-knowledgeable owners are needing to do this- most tend to be able to deal with the little stuff. A LOT depends on how supportive the dealer is: if they're good/easy to work with then that might offset them being further away (than a closer, less easy-to-work-with dealer). Over the long-haul I'd want a tractor that I like over a dealer that I liked. I don't want to diminish the importance of a good dealer (I did note that I find it important), just that sometimes people over-state the importance and so doing sacrifice getting a tractor that would be better for them."

I'm getting ready to select a new tractor and still feel that the dealer proximity is important to me. Thanks, Vic