murphy1244
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2011
- Messages
- 16,335
- Location
- Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota 1120 RTV Kioti DK-40, MF-135, Ventrac 4500Y
I run the PTO to help warm up too.
My NX6010
- Thread starter MinnesotaEric
- Start date
- Views: 474769
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MinnesotaEric
Super Member
Testus interuptus!
Today, after hitting a couple of the bypass spring coils with map gas to detention (pun!) them and then testing the thermostat function on my stove again, I tossed everything back together and got all but maybe half a gallon of the anti-freeze back in before I started up. The good news is that at idle, the tractor now can build some heat, and after the T-stat opened I was able to get a little more anti-freeze in.
However, after I put the stock 13 pound radiator cap on, I started to smell antifreeze. And so I got my hose out and washed off all of my spills. The antifreeze smell came back immediately and so with the engine running I began to look around at the things I disturbed. Turns out the bottom of the upper radiator hose is weeping antifreeze through the spiral wraps just as was suggested when I first mentioned I have an antifreeze leak somewhere but hadn't located the source last month.
Anyway, it is a little too soon to give a result of the T-stat transplant other than to say that with a leaking upper radiator hose, the engine got some heat in it at idle and seemed to warm up faster (I drove around my neighborhood in high gear, giving my neighbors something to talk about), and it seemed to regulate at the same operating temperature on the temp gauge inside the cab, but it never really did build up much pressure due to the leaky hose.
Since I need to chase up north, and don't want to wait for Kioti parts and the upper radiator hose is basically a straight bit of hose, I think I'll chase off and get a better-made-then-stock Gates hose with the same inside diameter and cut it down to size and retest to try and get a determining result.
Today, after hitting a couple of the bypass spring coils with map gas to detention (pun!) them and then testing the thermostat function on my stove again, I tossed everything back together and got all but maybe half a gallon of the anti-freeze back in before I started up. The good news is that at idle, the tractor now can build some heat, and after the T-stat opened I was able to get a little more anti-freeze in.
However, after I put the stock 13 pound radiator cap on, I started to smell antifreeze. And so I got my hose out and washed off all of my spills. The antifreeze smell came back immediately and so with the engine running I began to look around at the things I disturbed. Turns out the bottom of the upper radiator hose is weeping antifreeze through the spiral wraps just as was suggested when I first mentioned I have an antifreeze leak somewhere but hadn't located the source last month.
Anyway, it is a little too soon to give a result of the T-stat transplant other than to say that with a leaking upper radiator hose, the engine got some heat in it at idle and seemed to warm up faster (I drove around my neighborhood in high gear, giving my neighbors something to talk about), and it seemed to regulate at the same operating temperature on the temp gauge inside the cab, but it never really did build up much pressure due to the leaky hose.
Since I need to chase up north, and don't want to wait for Kioti parts and the upper radiator hose is basically a straight bit of hose, I think I'll chase off and get a better-made-then-stock Gates hose with the same inside diameter and cut it down to size and retest to try and get a determining result.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
I knew that was what you would find on that anti-freeze "weep"
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MinnesotaEric
Super Member
I ran out of light to fire up the tractor and make noise in my neighborhood warming it up to temperature (I try to be a good neighbor).
Nevertheless, here is what I have to share:
Near as I can tell, James, the stock upper hose failed because it was overtightened from the factory. The factory hose clamps cut into the hose providing a weak point for a future failure. In the photo below the stock upper radiator hose that failed is on the left and the replacement Gates hose is on the right. Notice the quality difference?
And because it is me, along with replacing the upper radiator hose, I winged the stock hose clamps that damaged the hose as they tighten into the weeds in favor for double loop hose clamps that don't damage hoses when reasonably tightened (these clamps can take torque).
And since it is too late to make noise and remain a good neighbor, I'm pressure testing at 13 psi the entire system.
Nevertheless, here is what I have to share:
Near as I can tell, James, the stock upper hose failed because it was overtightened from the factory. The factory hose clamps cut into the hose providing a weak point for a future failure. In the photo below the stock upper radiator hose that failed is on the left and the replacement Gates hose is on the right. Notice the quality difference?
And because it is me, along with replacing the upper radiator hose, I winged the stock hose clamps that damaged the hose as they tighten into the weeds in favor for double loop hose clamps that don't damage hoses when reasonably tightened (these clamps can take torque).
And since it is too late to make noise and remain a good neighbor, I'm pressure testing at 13 psi the entire system.
OP
MinnesotaEric
Super Member
Sometimes, the bear gets you. My tester showed my system was still losing pressure.
Sigh. Because I want to get out of town and back up north, I had RTVed up the stock thermostat gasket and reused it. Sadly, the gasket didn't hold a seal. This time I took the time to make a new gasket out of gasket material I keep around.
But no good deed goes unrewarded and when I was loosening the rearward bolt of the T-stat housing, the bolt stuck in my swivel socket as I pulled it up, and as I thought, "Noooooooooo!!!" and the radio played Beck's, "I'm a loser, Baby, so why don't you kill me!", the bolt did a Peter Pan and vanished behind the water pump housing.
The first step of bolt recovery was to get a lot more space under the hood. I decided the best way to do with was to use a pair of tie-downs and hook the ends to the cab mirror mounts and hook the tie-downs together under the hood. When I pulled the pin to the gas rams, I then lifted the hood up and tightened the tie-downs to hold the hood straight up.
I then proceeded to tear apart the turbo induction plumbing to gain access to the water pump.
I don't know about you, but my mind tends to wander, and so while taking things apart trying to find the missing bolt, it occurred to me that all this sensor is doing is measuring pressure differential and that a test tube with the proper restriction could do the same thing.
And this sensor? An O2 sensor or an exhaust temp sensor? A test tube with fittings? I should consult the service manual to determine what these sensors are doing.
Anti-freeze leak number 2 turned out to be a dealer installed leak from the optional heater core.
The problem with the optional heater core is access. It is a 30mm hex with no room for a wrench swing or a socket and so the tech likely tightened the heater core as best as he could. My solution, 30mm is close enough to 1-1/8" and so I used my 1-1/8" wrench and an extra-long 1/2" wrench to snug this rascal up. I snugged the heater core up, but the pipe tape looks like I may need to pull the core out, re-pipetape it, and do a fresh install.
I suspect I may still have yet another anti-freeze leak, but I had to quit to go in and watch the Walking Dead. I'll hit the system again with my pressure tester on Monday, weather permitting.
Sigh. Because I want to get out of town and back up north, I had RTVed up the stock thermostat gasket and reused it. Sadly, the gasket didn't hold a seal. This time I took the time to make a new gasket out of gasket material I keep around.
But no good deed goes unrewarded and when I was loosening the rearward bolt of the T-stat housing, the bolt stuck in my swivel socket as I pulled it up, and as I thought, "Noooooooooo!!!" and the radio played Beck's, "I'm a loser, Baby, so why don't you kill me!", the bolt did a Peter Pan and vanished behind the water pump housing.
The first step of bolt recovery was to get a lot more space under the hood. I decided the best way to do with was to use a pair of tie-downs and hook the ends to the cab mirror mounts and hook the tie-downs together under the hood. When I pulled the pin to the gas rams, I then lifted the hood up and tightened the tie-downs to hold the hood straight up.
I then proceeded to tear apart the turbo induction plumbing to gain access to the water pump.
I don't know about you, but my mind tends to wander, and so while taking things apart trying to find the missing bolt, it occurred to me that all this sensor is doing is measuring pressure differential and that a test tube with the proper restriction could do the same thing.
And this sensor? An O2 sensor or an exhaust temp sensor? A test tube with fittings? I should consult the service manual to determine what these sensors are doing.
Anti-freeze leak number 2 turned out to be a dealer installed leak from the optional heater core.
The problem with the optional heater core is access. It is a 30mm hex with no room for a wrench swing or a socket and so the tech likely tightened the heater core as best as he could. My solution, 30mm is close enough to 1-1/8" and so I used my 1-1/8" wrench and an extra-long 1/2" wrench to snug this rascal up. I snugged the heater core up, but the pipe tape looks like I may need to pull the core out, re-pipetape it, and do a fresh install.
I suspect I may still have yet another anti-freeze leak, but I had to quit to go in and watch the Walking Dead. I'll hit the system again with my pressure tester on Monday, weather permitting.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
I agree, one does not miss the walking dead. Be sure to catch the follow up on talking dead too!. Emily (Beth) was looking fine!:thumbsup:
OP
MinnesotaEric
Super Member
With the rain coming down, tonight I finally circled the wagons around the chainsaw carrier I've been thinking about.
When finished, the saw will rest on 1/4" wide 10 pound closed-cell foam. The grip teeth are free the none of the chain teeth take any weight. If I find a nice handle, I'll weld on a nut plate and use the handle as a press.
In other news, before it rained I pressure checked the cooling system, and this time, the system held pressure. I guess I fixed everything last night, after all. I then checked the anti-freeze and it is only good for 10-20 below. In colder climates, we mix anti-freeze and water 60/40 for maximum protection. I'll drop the stock anti-freeze tomorrow and put in 60/40 mix of the ten year stuff.
When finished, the saw will rest on 1/4" wide 10 pound closed-cell foam. The grip teeth are free the none of the chain teeth take any weight. If I find a nice handle, I'll weld on a nut plate and use the handle as a press.
In other news, before it rained I pressure checked the cooling system, and this time, the system held pressure. I guess I fixed everything last night, after all. I then checked the anti-freeze and it is only good for 10-20 below. In colder climates, we mix anti-freeze and water 60/40 for maximum protection. I'll drop the stock anti-freeze tomorrow and put in 60/40 mix of the ten year stuff.
grm61
Platinum Member
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MinnesotaEric
Super Member
Today, I painted my chain saw holder which is now in the oven getting the paint baked on. While rattle-canning the chainsaw holder, it occurred to me that if Republicans gain the senate, then we may find favorable conditions for the resolution of Fannie and Freddie, and shares in each company should experience a momentary pop on enthusiasm alone. As a result, I purchased a 1000 shares of FMCKI preferred in today's afternoon session. I then ran out and purchased $20.00 in Mega Millions tickets too because I'm feeling lucky.
If the trade works out, I'll buy a PTO-driven forest mulcher.
If the trade works out, I'll buy a PTO-driven forest mulcher.
murphy1244
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2011
- Messages
- 16,335
- Location
- Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota 1120 RTV Kioti DK-40, MF-135, Ventrac 4500Y
Notice the full cage, I like that.