My NX6010

[grm61]

Eric, Ive been thinking about your concerns with the warm up on you NX series tractor
Your a smart guy and very determined..
So take whatever you want of this, if any, of this and put in your think tank.

I'd like to share some of observations of my DK45 in cold weather.


Some things to ponder...My tractor for instance....is 2.2 liters in displacement, it holds 8 quarts of ice cold oil....a 7.4 or 8.1 liter big block chev gas pot holds 7.5 quarts .....over three times the displacent.... and gas...holding less oil than the little tractor motor.... d.That is a lot of oil to warm up for a small displacement diesel motor with aluminum oil pan dissipating heat rapidly with the engine fan blowing cold air accross it./B]. on top of that diesels run cool.

The tractor is not going to make any heat at dead idle when it's cold out.

I'm sure you probably have a point and shoot infrared thermometer...take some reading on your oil pan.
I fired my tractor up last winter at O degrees F, the reading on the oil pan was +1F, after 15 to 20 minutes of running approx. the coolant temp had reached normal operating temp..needle was between the dots...the oil temp was up to 27 degrees F:shocked: It takes quite a while when it is cold out for these little motors to heat all that oil and coolant, and cold cast iron...also remember diesels run cold, yours should do slightly better with the oil being pumped through the turbo.
.

When you were talking about your coolant leak...you referred to the block heater as a heater core...probably just a mix up in terms....
FWIW, the heater core, (think small radiator) is in your roof, the coolant lines you will see going up through the cab frame to the top, the heater fan blows cold air across this also....I/m sure you probably know this, but just throwing it out there to not leave anything out.

I know your tractor has auto throttle, and I don't know if you can turn it off??

Things I noticed on my 45...when COLD out...I fire my tractor up At idle, after a couple minutes I bump it up to 1250 to 1300 let it run for 7 minutes or so then bump it up 1450 to 1500..a few minutes after that the coolant temp it up between the dots.

If I do that same procedure, and turn the heat on (think water valve) and turn the heater fan on it will barely come off cold during that time....So I don't turn the heat temp up (water valve) until I have heat in the motor... If I do things in this order it will warm up fine...but not at idle, I follow this routine in the summer as well, takes less time though, When it is real cold I will run it for twenty minutes or so before I use it, lots of cold iron and oil to get warmed up, I run the pto as well to help warm the hyd oil.

When I'm clearing snow and need to get off the tractor for a while I leave it run about 1400 to1500 with the heater blowing and it will stay up at normal, if I knock it back to idle it will slowly cool down.
For me, not a big deal to modify my driving style a little in the winter, these thing are made to work hard in all seasons.

You will figure out this winter what works for you, hope maybe some of this might help.

Good luck







My tractor also has a aluminum oil pan that dissipates heat very well, the engine fan also moves a lot of air that aids in the cooling effect of the oil as well.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric, Ive been thinking about your concerns with the warm up on you NX series tractor
Your a smart guy and very determined..
So take whatever you want of this, if any, of this and put in your think tank.

I'd like to share some of observations of my DK45 in cold weather.


Some things to ponder...My tractor for instance....is 2.2 liters in displacement, it holds 8 quarts of ice cold oil....a 7.4 or 8.1 liter big block chev gas pot holds 7.5 quarts .....over three times the displacent.... and gas...holding less oil than the little tractor motor.... d.That is a lot of oil to warm up for a small displacement diesel motor with aluminum oil pan dissipating heat rapidly with the engine fan blowing cold air accross it./B]. on top of that diesels run cool.

The tractor is not going to make any heat at dead idle when it's cold out.

I'm sure you probably have a point and shoot infrared thermometer...take some reading on your oil pan.
I fired my tractor up last winter at O degrees F, the reading on the oil pan was +1F, after 15 to 20 minutes of running approx. the coolant temp had reached normal operating temp..needle was between the dots...the oil temp was up to 27 degrees F:shocked: It takes quite a while when it is cold out for these little motors to heat all that oil and coolant, and cold cast iron...also remember diesels run cold, yours should do slightly better with the oil being pumped through the turbo.
.

When you were talking about your coolant leak...you referred to the block heater as a heater core...probably just a mix up in terms....
FWIW, the heater core, (think small radiator) is in your roof, the coolant lines you will see going up through the cab frame to the top, the heater fan blows cold air across this also....I/m sure you probably know this, but just throwing it out there to not leave anything out.

I know your tractor has auto throttle, and I don't know if you can turn it off??

Things I noticed on my 45...when COLD out...I fire my tractor up At idle, after a couple minutes I bump it up to 1250 to 1300 let it run for 7 minutes or so then bump it up 1450 to 1500..a few minutes after that the coolant temp it up between the dots.

If I do that same procedure, and turn the heat on (think water valve) and turn the heater fan on it will barely come off cold during that time....So I don't turn the heat temp up (water valve) until I have heat in the motor... If I do things in this order it will warm up fine...but not at idle, I follow this routine in the summer as well, takes less time though, When it is real cold I will run it for twenty minutes or so before I use it, lots of cold iron and oil to get warmed up, I run the pto as well to help warm the hyd oil.

When I'm clearing snow and need to get off the tractor for a while I leave it run about 1400 to1500 with the heater blowing and it will stay up at normal, if I knock it back to idle it will slowly cool down.
For me, not a big deal to modify my driving style a little in the winter, these thing are made to work hard in all seasons.

You will figure out this winter what works for you, hope maybe some of this might help.

Good luck


My tractor also has a aluminum oil pan that dissipates heat very well, the engine fan also moves a lot of air that aids in the cooling effect of the oil as well.

Thank you for your thoughts. I mess up nomenclature all of the time. And names. I try not to, my bad. Bad enough that I do it when talking but my auto-spell changes words on me all the time. Gets really bad when it is trying to auto correct an option chain. At any-rate, I cannot be revving up an engine at 10 degrees or less to warm it up. The tractor will be stored in my sister's unheated pole barn and tasked with whatever they want. For that reason I'm also considering a circulation engine heater such as Zerostart's 8000 series. According to their literature, a 750 watt heater should take a stone cold engine to 120 degrees in about half and hour of being plugged in.

A 330-5036 in this
http://www.phillipsandtemro.com/userfiles//Industrial Tank Circulation Engine Heater Sellsheet.pdf

Or a 3308001 in the 8000 series for a 750 watt circulation heater.
http://www.phillipsandtemro.com/userfiles//Series 8000 Tank Circulation Heater.pdf


If anybody wants to go off the deep end and find all kinds of products that keep fluids like brake lines from freezing and fuel lines from freezing, to external cab heaters, here you go.
Phillips & Temro - Literature

Edit: After hunting around, I decided to go with the industrial 1000W application. The least expensive source I found was here: ZeroStart - 330-5048 - 1000W Industrial Circulation Heater

 

[k0ua]

I'm still trying to get over the one with the trough and the bat lol

yeah, that was a little tough, but Rick was right, those Terminus folks messed with the wrong bunch.

 

[grm61]

Thank you for your thoughts. I mess up nomenclature all of the time. And names. I try not to, my bad. Bad enough that I do it when talking but my auto-spell changes words on me all the time. Gets really bad when it is trying to auto correct an option chain. At any-rate, I cannot be revving up an engine at 10 degrees or less to warm it up. The tractor will be stored in my sister's unheated pole barn and tasked with whatever they want. For that reason I'm also considering a circulation engine heater such as Zerostart's 8000 series. According to their literature, a 750 watt heater should take a stone cold engine to 120 degrees in about half and hour of being plugged in.

A 330-5036 in this
http://www.phillipsandtemro.com/userfiles//Industrial Tank Circulation Engine Heater Sellsheet.pdf

Or a 3308001 in the 8000 series for a 750 watt circulation heater.
http://www.phillipsandtemro.com/userfiles//Series 8000 Tank Circulation Heater.pdf


If anybody wants to go off the deep end and find all kinds of products that keep fluids like brake lines from freezing and fuel lines from freezing, to external cab heaters, here you go.
Phillips & Temro - Literature

Edit: After hunting around, I decided to go with the industrial 1000W application. The least expensive source I found was here: ZeroStart - 330-5048 - 1000W Industrial Circulation Heater

what is wrong with the block heater that's. presently on the tractor, does it not work?

 

[TSO]

Eric... I don't know if you're over thinking the tstat issue, or the pre-heater, or if there is such a design flaw that forces the issues to be addressed...

But at least on my tractor, it only takes a couple mins for her to warm up enough to start blowing warm air out of the vents. And maybe only 5-10 mins max for the air to turn hot. That's with storing it in a non heated barn, no block heater.

I doubt that Massey unlocked some patented secret there, my buddies Kubota seems to warm up quickly as well.

I'm just saying, it might have been prudent to see just what kind of factory performance you would have actually gotten in the winter, before making any changes. .... ?

 

[murphy1244]

Running the PTO will help too.

 

[RDrancher]

Running the PTO will help too.

Maybe the third time will work Murph...

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Eric... I don't know if you're over thinking the tstat issue, or the pre-heater, or if there is such a design flaw that forces the issues to be addressed...

But at least on my tractor, it only takes a couple mins for her to warm up enough to start blowing warm air out of the vents. And maybe only 5-10 mins max for the air to turn hot. That's with storing it in a non heated barn, no block heater.

I doubt that Massey unlocked some patented secret there, my buddies Kubota seems to warm up quickly as well.

I'm just saying, it might have been prudent to see just what kind of factory performance you would have actually gotten in the winter, before making any changes. .... ?

From my own experience of starting this tractor in sub 40 degree weather, I do not like the extended warm-up time while under load. Remember, a Tier 4 machine plugs its own particulate filter faster while warming up or if left idling, and so it gets shut off when jumping out for a few minutes or more. This means, for me that the tractor is starting from "not warmed up" throughout the day. Performance stinks when cold and the exhaust filter gets plugged. Right now, the tractor claims that it doesn't need a regen cycle, but the tractor has lost enough power that is cannot drive its own weight up a 6-7% grade in high gear. So, I have a 60 hp tractor that isn't acting like a 60 hp tractor. As a result, while I have it where I can try things, I'm trying things. Also consider that last year the coldest night they had at my sister's was forty below zero and so I want a provision to be able to warm up the engine from an outlet if needed since I'm moving there within the next year.

 

[TSO]

From my own experience of starting this tractor in sub 40 degree weather, I do not like the extended warm-up time while under load. Remember, a Tier 4 machine plugs its own particulate filter faster while warming up or if left idling, and so it gets shut off when jumping out for a few minutes or more. This means, for me that the tractor is starting from "not warmed up" throughout the day. Performance stinks when cold and the exhaust filter gets plugged. Right now, the tractor claims that it doesn't need a regen cycle, but the tractor has lost enough power that is cannot drive its own weight up a 6-7% grade in high gear. So, I have a 60 hp tractor that isn't acting like a 60 hp tractor. As a result, while I have it where I can try things, I'm trying things. Also consider that last year the coldest night they had at my sister's was forty below zero and so I want a provision to be able to warm up the engine from an outlet if needed since I'm moving there within the next year.

Wow, hadn't even thought about the tier 4 complications .... But that power loss phenomenon would really chap my gluteous maximus! No offense, but your trials and tribulations with this tractor are making me really glad I have this tier 3 Massey, even though there was a time I had seriously considered the NX6010 for the extra PTO HP.

I'm looking forward to the day when the tinkerage is complete and your start using this thing regularly ...interested to see how it holds up

 

[95ram]

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I've owned many (17) diesel pickups. Diesel's should never be left idling in sub zero temps. Your RPM's should be bumped up 1250-1500 to keep cylinder temps high enough to allow full fuel burn. If left sitting at idle, you're going to run into cylinder wash. I've always bumped my idle up 12-1300 after 1-2 min at idle. I do this with all of my pickups and tractors and haven't had a problem to date. By doing this you will also have faster warm up times.