Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[nova3930]

The old manual for my Ford 917 lists Ford M1C137-A grease for the gear box. After I get the last cut of the year finished, I want to clean out the gear box and put all fresh grease in it. Anybody have an easy to find (ie order) equivalent of that M1C137-A grease? I would think any heavy duty lithium moly grease should work but I want to make sure....

 

[dieselscout80]

I run 90w gear oil in my 917. I may try 85/140w after I get the oil leaks sealed up.

 

[nova3930]

I run 90w gear oil in my 917. I may try 85/140w after I get the oil leaks sealed up.

I thought about just running 90W gear oil but the manual is really specific about using grease. I hate to think I know better than my fellow engineers that wrote the manual....

 

[IslandTractor]

I thought about just running 90W gear oil but the manual is really specific about using grease. I hate to think I know better than my fellow engineers that wrote the manual....

Understand your point but it probably doesn't matter. Many folks use grease if the gearbox leaks oil so I imagine the other way around works too. These are not precision devices and probably anything that lubricates will do the job.

 

[DavesTractor]

They make a "00" grease that flows when it warms up and then gels up when it cools. Not a bad option for an old gearbox that leaks a little but that does not get enough use to try to seal it up tight. I've seen guys use it and have yet to see a problem from it. Of course once you become your own chemical engineer, you are liable for any failures due to same! I think I had this as factory fill on an old Snapper rider mower.

 

[Xfaxman]

They make a "00" grease that flows when it warms up and then gels up when it cools. Not a bad option for an old gearbox that leaks a little but that does not get enough use to try to seal it up tight. I've seen guys use it and have yet to see a problem from it. Of course once you become your own chemical engineer, you are liable for any failures due to same! I think I had this as factory fill on an old Snapper rider mower.

"00" grease is thixotropic, it has nothing to do with temperature.
There have been several threads about using it in brush hog gear boxes, here is one: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/land-clearing-equipment/310102-grease-gear-case.html

 

[DavesTractor]

"00" grease is thixotropic, it has nothing to do with temperature.
There have been several threads about using it in brush hog gear boxes, here is one: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/land-clearing-equipment/310102-grease-gear-case.html

I learned a new word, and how this grease works, thanks!

 

[nova3930]

Understand your point but it probably doesn't matter. Many folks use grease if the gearbox leaks oil so I imagine the other way around works too. These are not precision devices and probably anything that lubricates will do the job.

Probably so. I've just gotten burned before thinking I know better than the guys that came before me. The spacers on my rear roller are a prime example. "WTF do I need this junk for" I say, only to leave my roller behind in the pasture lol

 

[IslandTractor]

Probably so. I've just gotten burned before thinking I know better than the guys that came before me. The spacers on my rear roller are a prime example. "WTF do I need this junk for" I say, only to leave my roller behind in the pasture lol

I fully appreciate your conservatism here. However, leaving out the spacers would be more like deciding you didn't need no stinking grease in the gearbox. Substituting gear oil is a milder and probably inconsequential deviation from the master plan. For all we know, they specified grease at the factory so they could load it up with grease there rather than hoping and keeping their fingers crossed that the future owner would add oil before putting it to work.

 

[IslandTractor]

FYI used 48" Rhino flail mower for sale Falmouth MA Rhino 48" 3 pt flail mower

I know nothing about this, just ran across it on Craigslist. Might be nice for a sub 30hp tractor. Not many 48" flails around.

 

[nova3930]

When I put my roller back in the last time, I dropped the height a notch. The old 917 cuts really well with it in that position. Short like a finish mower with not quite as good a cut.

I even managed to make it a whole cutting day without breaking the mower other than a lost blade....although I did break a stabilizer bar on the tractor

I've got a little more cutting to do before I stash it for the year, at which point I'm going to clean it up, empty the gear box and replace with 85w/140 gear oil.

 

[grey goose]

Well, I did it - and with no real-world experience either, just the knowledge you guys have shared in this mega-thread! Funnier still, I haven't even gotten my tractor delivered yet!

I found a used [well used] Befco H40 flail on our local craigslist. Drove out to look it over and was really hesitant because of the mods the owner did, but at $700, I just couldn't pass it up. The driveline cover is beat up but the cross bearings seemed good and there is no noise coming out of the rest of the bearings. There is plenty of oil in the gearbox. The 'Y' flails are worn but they look like there is plenty of material left to sharpen them. There was only one belt on it and that was dry-rotted.

The seller must have had serious problems with the factory roller because he engineered what looks to be a 6" oil field pipe on pillow blocks to replace it. Looks like it gives up any height adjustment for all that strength tho... We'll see come spring when I can test it.

Now, a question for the experts here:
> The top link connection has been welded to the front hitch support [see photos]. Will this prevent me from 'floating' the mower across uneven terrain? I still don't have a clear understanding of this mechanism so I guess I'll have to experiment a bit.

> The parts listing shows two versions of belts for this mower. Can anyone offer a clue as to how I can tell which 'version' I have? I haven't found a serial # yet either...

If anyone has a source for the operators manual for this beast, please PM me. I see I can get parts from German-Bliss. Are they any other trusted sources for parts?

Now at least I've got a winter project to keep me out of trouble.

Thanks to everyone for sharing all their experiences and advise in this forum!


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[IslandTractor]

Well, I did it - and with no real-world experience either, just the knowledge you guys have shared in this mega-thread! Funnier still, I haven't even gotten my tractor delivered yet!

I found a used [well used] Befco H40 flail on our local craigslist. Drove out to look it over and was really hesitant because of the mods the owner did, but at $700, I just couldn't pass it up. The driveline cover is beat up but the cross bearings seemed good and there is no noise coming out of the rest of the bearings. There is plenty of oil in the gearbox. The 'Y' flails are worn but they look like there is plenty of material left to sharpen them. There was only one belt on it and that was dry-rotted.

The seller must have had serious problems with the factory roller because he engineered what looks to be a 6" oil field pipe on pillow blocks to replace it. Looks like it gives up any height adjustment for all that strength tho... We'll see come spring when I can test it.

Now, a question for the experts here:
> The top link connection has been welded to the front hitch support [see photos]. Will this prevent me from 'floating' the mower across uneven terrain? I still don't have a clear understanding of this mechanism so I guess I'll have to experiment a bit.

> The parts listing shows two versions of belts for this mower. Can anyone offer a clue as to how I can tell which 'version' I have? I haven't found a serial # yet either...

If anyone has a source for the operators manual for this beast, please PM me. I see I can get parts from German-Bliss. Are they any other trusted sources for parts?

Now at least I've got a winter project to keep me out of trouble.

Thanks to everyone for sharing all their experiences and advise in this forum!

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1) Wait for Leonz to reply
2) I think you could just use a chain rather than toplink if you want the mower to float. You can run it in the rigid position however. I think that for rough cutting the rigid position is fine. You'd like the float if you are trying to cut real evenly though.
3) I'm a bit concerned about the big open space between the roller and the body. The mower relies on recutting material to mulch properly. Not sure if that gap will interfere with recutting. If it does just weld a plate over it to close it.

 

[IslandTractor]

Well, I did it - and with no real-world experience either, just the knowledge you guys have shared in this mega-thread! Funnier still, I haven't even gotten my tractor delivered yet!

I found a used [well used] Befco H40 flail on our local craigslist. Drove out to look it over and was really hesitant because of the mods the owner did, but at $700, I just couldn't pass it up. The driveline cover is beat up but the cross bearings seemed good and there is no noise coming out of the rest of the bearings. There is plenty of oil in the gearbox. The 'Y' flails are worn but they look like there is plenty of material left to sharpen them. There was only one belt on it and that was dry-rotted.

The seller must have had serious problems with the factory roller because he engineered what looks to be a 6" oil field pipe on pillow blocks to replace it. Looks like it gives up any height adjustment for all that strength tho... We'll see come spring when I can test it.

Now, a question for the experts here:
> The top link connection has been welded to the front hitch support [see photos]. Will this prevent me from 'floating' the mower across uneven terrain? I still don't have a clear understanding of this mechanism so I guess I'll have to experiment a bit.

> The parts listing shows two versions of belts for this mower. Can anyone offer a clue as to how I can tell which 'version' I have? I haven't found a serial # yet either...

If anyone has a source for the operators manual for this beast, please PM me. I see I can get parts from German-Bliss. Are they any other trusted sources for parts?

Now at least I've got a winter project to keep me out of trouble.

Thanks to everyone for sharing all their experiences and advise in this forum!

View attachment 398779
View attachment 398770
View attachment 398773
View attachment 398778

1) Wait for Leonz to reply
2) I think you could just use a chain rather than toplink if you want the mower to float. You can run it in the rigid position however. I think that for rough cutting the rigid position is fine. You'd like the float if you are trying to cut real evenly though.
3) I'm a bit concerned about the big open space between the roller and the body. The mower relies on recutting material to mulch properly. Not sure if that gap will interfere with recutting. If it does just weld a plate over it to close it.

 

[Reg]

Yes, I think that welded top link will limit your ability to float it.
Not necessarily a BAD thing though, floating it over humps or through dips that are too severe can be BAD.
{Unless/until you get good at timing your 3 pt lift height adjustments just before & after the humps and dips}

You could probably cut those welds out (I would) or use an hydraulic top link with a float detent (I probably wouldn't).

I think I would wait and see how the geometry works out when you have the tractor available to hook it up to.
If that top link is as long as I think it is you won't have room for a regular top link (as WELL).

At a guess the former owner welded it up because it kept loosening up and falling apart- nylok nuts might have fixed that.

 

[Reg]

Second thoughts, it isn't a top link, it is a bracket TO the top link.
It is fairly upright, a regular top link should fit into it without a length issue.

 

[Halftrack]

The welded top link is probably a modification I would have made to this flail mower. If you look at the 917 Ford flails, you fine tune the cutting height with the top link, longer cuts higher, shorter cuts lower. Look at it as though the flail rotor is hanging between the rear wheels and the rear roller. Your mower with the altered roller (further back) will tend to scalp more do to the distance between the rotor and roller. The main reason to take the lift arms out of the height adjustment is the single point top link allows the mower to rock left and right to follow ground contours.

 

[leonz]

Well, I did it - and with no real-world experience either, just the knowledge you guys have shared in this mega-thread! Funnier still, I haven't even gotten my tractor delivered yet!

I found a used [well used] Befco H40 flail on our local craigslist. Drove out to look it over and was really hesitant because of the mods the owner did, but at $700, I just couldn't pass it up. The driveline cover is beat up but the cross bearings seemed good and there is no noise coming out of the rest of the bearings. There is plenty of oil in the gearbox. The 'Y' flails are worn but they look like there is plenty of material left to sharpen them. There was only one belt on it and that was dry-rotted.

The seller must have had serious problems with the factory roller because he engineered what looks to be a 6" oil field pipe on pillow blocks to replace it. Looks like it gives up any height adjustment for all that strength tho... We'll see come spring when I can test it.

Now, a question for the experts here:
> The top link connection has been welded to the front hitch support [see photos]. Will this prevent me from 'floating' the mower across uneven terrain? I still don't have a clear understanding of this mechanism so I guess I'll have to experiment a bit.

> The parts listing shows two versions of belts for this mower. Can anyone offer a clue as to how I can tell which 'version' I have? I haven't found a serial # yet either...

If anyone has a source for the operators manual for this beast, please PM me. I see I can get parts from German-Bliss. Are they any other trusted sources for parts?

Now at least I've got a winter project to keep me out of trouble.

Thanks to everyone for sharing all their experiences and advise in this forum!

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Mule or no Mule in the stable you are now member of the Flail Mower Nations.

Your going ot have to experiment with the cut to see if you are happy with it as is.

Please upload a picture of the flail mower rotor and exposed pulleys when you have a minute.

Remove the V belt guard and you will have direct access to the drive and driven pulleys.

You can get a manual from the Befco main office folks in the carolinas for your mower.

I believe the replacement side slicer blades will cost you less than the trouble of grinding
them for now as you have no idea what he was mowing and how fast )(*&^%^&*(.
(I have the same 34 year old rear roller on my flail mower)

As you have examined the side slicer blades-I would order new ones from Flail Master.


IF you want to keep it you can add a front set of pneumatic caster wheels to keep the mower cutting level
at one mowing height BUT that would increase the potential for deer ticks and......................................

IT would keep the knives out of the sod/rocks if you did that but the rear roller business make me wonder how badly he really treated that thing.

You can always get original replacement parts from a Befco authorised dealer.
If you take this mower under your wing it would be a good way to understand how the flail mower works.

When you start mowing your going to find it will not cut very well as the mower will not be able to create high suction
(pressure gradient) to aid in slicing and lifting the cuttings up and over the flail mower rotor.


Please post more pictures when you have time.

 

[erda]

So, just trying to figure out a few things. Does a flail mower 'use' as much power as a rotary mower (bush hog)? Also, there seems to be a huge difference in price between some of the brands. Is there a 'substantive' difference?
Thanks.

 

[erda]

double post