Tire changing lubricants

[dclynch]

Now I am wondering if I messed up. I had a rear rim rust through and when I put the new tube and tire back on the new rim I didn't use anything then had tube filled with beet juice. Will never ever use Calcium Chloride again I replaced both back rims in 2 years and of course they split when I needed the tractor the most. I bought the tractor used and the tires were already loaded so I don't know how long the Calcium Chloride was in there before they rusted out.

 

[DB Pilot]

dclynch,

I was lucky with the rim. I didn't find very much rust on the rim and the CaCl had been in the tires tube for a long time. I had the CaCl put in my BX2200 rear tires with tubes, it ruined one rim but I was able to salvage the other. So final word on CaCl ... If done right with out spills the CaCl will not harm your rims. Problem is it will take several years to find out if all was done right. So like you I am done with CaCl. I have beet juice in the L3800. My only fear is that should I get a puncture I see no way to salvage the ballast during repairs. And usually I do not notice punctures until the next day when I see the tractor not sitting right. Looks like I'm going to use Anti-freeze, windshield washer fluid or some winter rated variant of that. :2cents:

 

[Soundguy]

Now I am wondering if I messed up. I had a rear rim rust through and when I put the new tube and tire back on the new rim I didn't use anything then had tube filled with beet juice. Will never ever use Calcium Chloride again I replaced both back rims in 2 years and of course they split when I needed the tractor the most. I bought the tractor used and the tires were already loaded so I don't know how long the Calcium Chloride was in there before they rusted out.

remember... rubber and paint don't rust.

don't matter what the tubes are loaded with. if none of it gets to metal.. you get no rust.

rusty rims and caclk comes from lack of maintenance.

if you get a tube leak.. or leaky valve stem. you break the stuff down, wash the rim and casing, and repair or repalce the tube ( I repalce. no need to do that work twice ).

standard practice i see is to cram in a new core or crank on a cap with a rubber under it to staunch the leak, and then not clean up the spill.

or.. if a slow leak.. just let it leak.

that's where you hit most problems....

 

[jimmysisson]

My problem with cacl (I use it) is some of my neighbor mowing is in a field that sprouts hawthorns. The spikes on them will go through the soft rubber between the ag ribs. If you don't see them to remove them (they break off at the surface) they'll sit in the rubber and the points eat their way through the tube. Eventually you get enough salt out of the tube to eat the rim if there's any flaw in the rim paint.
Good stuff for weight and price, but intolerant of flaws. Flaws I got.
Jim

 

[Soundguy]

might be time to boot them tires with a pieve of bailer belting or horse stall matting or similar// mudflap etc..

 

[DarkBlack]

A buddy of mine is an aircraft tech. They told him at one of the classes for changing tires on the Boeing 737 he maintains, to never use dish soap. Corrodes metal rims, and will break down the rubber compound due to the grease cutters.

Been using RuGlyde here for years. Still a partial jug in Pop's shop, and I know it was bought back in the 80's. Got a new jug myself in the mid- 90's, and still half of it left. A good dash on a shop rag goes a long way.

I've never seen an aircraft with steel wheels, or a tractor with aluminum wheels, but maybe someone has. Putting that fact aside, auto tires roll through 40,00 miles of asphalt, oil, snow, various rain acidities, mud winter road salt, etc.. I highly doubt the rubber tire is going to be damaged by a few grams of dish soap.

 

[Soundguy]

yup....

 

[arrow]

dclynch,

My only fear is that should I get a puncture I see no way to salvage the ballast during repairs. :

This is a valid concern about beet juice. I do not know how strong a pump or type is needed to extract it should you want to do your own tire repair. Someone around here must know if it can fall into the diy realm.

 

[Soundguy]

gravity it down using air pressure to help.. and straw out the rest..

 

[whitepine2]

I would use caution when using wd-40 if any amount gets into tire (a tubeless) and air pressure is added it could possibly explode. What is going on is just like the power stroke in a cylinder if it don't explode it could cause a thermal and build up super pressure then still explode in a short time

Whitepine2

 

[batwing]

I would use caution when using wd-40 if any amount gets into tire (a tubeless) and air pressure is added it could possibly explode. What is going on is just like the power stroke in a cylinder if it don't explode it could cause a thermal and build up super pressure then still explode in a short time Whitepine2

I never heard of that, have used wd-40 in a wet distributer to start a car and worked well with no explosion.
Ron

 

[Loadstar]

Getting awfully deep in here.

 

[whitepine2]

I never heard of that, have used wd-40 in a wet distributer to start a car and worked well with no explosion.
Ron

You very well might have but remember there is no compression in a distributor cap it's when air is introduced that causes the combustion much like a diesel no spark just compression.

 

[sparc]

I have a jug of RuGLYDE from NAPA. We just use dishsoap down at the motorcycle shop.

When I worked in aGoodyear tire shop years ago, RuGlyde is what we used exclusively. I thought it worked well.

I'd like to add that no matter what you use wear safety glasses. I didn't back in the 70s when at Goodyear, no one did for that matter, but I can remember getting some lube that sprayed up in my face when the tire seated on the rim.

 

[batwing]

You very well might have but remember there is no compression in a distributor cap it's when air is introduced that causes the combustion much like a diesel no spark just compression.

True have used WD-40 to start a diesel and starting fluid to seat a tire, I guess you need a little common sense to go along with it.
Ron

 

[DB Pilot]

That's a definite on the safety glasses. First thing I put on when entering my workshop. One little, tiny, invisible spec of something in your eye can end a productive day of work. From hearing protection, gloves to chainsaw chaps I'm not really thinking about safety, I just want to have dinner at home and not in the hospital. :thumbsup:

I also bought a remote tire inflator for setting the bead of the 13.6-28 tractor tire. Have tried it on the car tire and it is working great. Should be a nice tool for many years.

Today the L3800 right front tire decided to deflate and came half off the rim before I noticed. Tomorrow I get to clean that up and use the Ruglyde and remote tire chuck. :cool2:

 

[chopped]

By remote do you mean something like this?
Remote Mount Inflator
I made one that had a lead of about 4 foot, just enough to get behind a wall .

 

[DB Pilot]

Yes, That remote is similar. I found mine at Gemplers. It is 3' with a side mount or 90 degree clip to attach to the nozzle. If it was a straight in air chuck that would be too bulky for some tires.

 

[whitepine2]

Yes as I understand now if DOT stops you for safety check one of the checks is air in tire and if any starting fluid or other is found you are pulled from road until fixed you don't move.

 

[whitepine2]

Also for tubeless tires on farm tractors and off road antifreeze just a small amount enough to cover inside of tire will seal any small leaks Good for wheel barrows and boat trailers that are not used often.
Like some of you have had trouble with new tractor tires next door neighbor had this trouble,I aired it up and two days later flat off rim.This time antifreeze and air it's been five years and no flat,this works even on cracked sidewalls it will seal most times,try it you will like it