Backhoe Ripper tooth design - need your advice

[CDN Farm Boy]

Is there a reason the layout doesn't use the existing edges of the flatstock? Seems like a waste to cutout a square piece a 1/4" in from the edge rather than just having to cut 2 sides

 

[bluehog]

Is there a reason the layout doesn't use the existing edges of the flatstock? Seems like a waste to cutout a square piece a 1/4" in from the edge rather than just having to cut 2 sides

There are a couple of reasons - the waterject machine you use the outside edges of the stock to secure the workpiece in place so the material does not move around. But the main reason is that raw stock edges are not generally straight/square so you cut out your parts so you end up with pieces that need no further machining on its profile. There is some taper on the thickness... but it is minimal unless the material is very thick >1". A waterjet uses extreme high water pressure suspending a garnet (special sand) to create a fine diameter cutting stream. By maintaining the outer straight surfaces it is easier to place the remaining stock back onto the machine for future use. I will try to get a few pics and post them so you can see how the stock is held in place. Although some stock is wasted, it makes the overall process a predictable and safer when locating and removing the remaining stock. When all area of the material are used the leftover frame is sawed and sent to recycle.

 

[bluehog]

Just a quick update... the work is in progress and all parts have been completed on the waterjet, a big thanks to my bud Jimmy G. who completed my parts in a timely manner. I have almost completed the required machining, doing the second side cutting edge on the blade today. So all parts should be delivered to the welder tomorrow I hope. My bud Ron S. has provided some awesome welding so far. I had planned on finishing the bushing bores at a couple different stages... but after each weld step it has shown me that the structural steel is subject to flex/warping so I will wait until all welding is complete to finish the inline pin bores. My only regret so far is I wish I would have left more stock in the bores as I only left 0.060" but everything is still in good shape I just have to monitor the existing locations to maintain full cleanup when final welding is done. Planning on completion mid next week! I'll try to post some pics by the weekend.

 

[bluehog]

The pics of the waterjet didn't come out very good... tough to get focus in that area. Last two pics show the pin support frame ready for welding. I placed threaded rod with nuts to support the spread during the weld process. The assembly still warped a bit but still useable as the pin bores are undersize and will be sized after all welding is complete.

 

[IslandTractor]

Man, I wish I had access to one of them waterjet thingies. Slick!

 

[bluehog]

Here are a few shots machining the blade. I did this after work on the Matsuura 800 vertical mill that I was operating at the time.

 

[bluehog]

Next challenge was to bend the back scoop plate to the shape of the blade. Since I used 1/2" instead of the 3/8" I originally planned on (which saved me from buying another 24" x 24" plate) I put several slots with a 1/4" ball endmill to give a weak point to allow the bend. I used a hydraulic press at each channel and formed the shape the best I could... still took 15,000lbs to bend it! Assembled the blade to the base with a couple bolts to make it easier on my welding bud... will remove bolts after complete. I had to put a name on it as the guys in the shop were giving me a hard time about that... so it got dubbed "STUMP SLAYER". Well its ready for final welding!

 

[IslandTractor]

Looks great.

We will need some slaying photos soon.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

Man, I wish I had access to one of them waterjet thingies. Slick!

And the rest of the equipment too!

Holy crap Blue, nice fab work! Almost be a shame to get it dirty or scratch it

 

[bluehog]

Looks great.

We will need some slaying photos soon.

If all goes well I'll be testing it out last week of October... pics will be posted early November. Got about 2 dozen stumps to eliminate so we'll see how I do.:thumbsup:

 

[IslandTractor]

If all goes well I'll be testing it out last week of October... pics will be posted early November. Got about 2 dozen stumps to eliminate so we'll see how I do.:thumbsup:

Expect a learning curve. Smaller stuff with just rip out but bigger stumps and roots require some strategy. Basically, either work at the root close in buy chewing at it or driving the point through it or alternatively, pivot the BH away from the stump and rip the root a few feet away where it is smaller. On big stumps I work around them by changing tractor position by 90 degrees after ripping the roots I can easily reach. Keep moving around rather than stretching to reach. Don't try to rip a big root with the BH fully extended as you won't have as much leverage. Use both curl on the ripper and pulling with the dipper or up with main boom. You'll probably develop your own style just try different techniques. It is not simply like digging with a narrow bucket. Also, check the stability of the stump occasionally by putting the ripper over it and pulling. Two things to look for: first is how loose it is and second is to judge where the remaining stabilizing roots are based on how it pivots. I actually only rarely use the ripper to completely remove the stump. Once it is good and loose, I turn the tractor around and get the grapple under then use low range to push and lift. Often faster than completing the job with ripper alone. Besides, you will need the FEL end to move the stump anyways so don't hesitate to use the one two punch. It can also help identify the one root that needs more ripping. On a big stump I might reposition half a dozen times and
push with the grapples a time or two before winning.

 

[bluehog]

And the rest of the equipment too!

Holy crap Blue, nice fab work! Almost be a shame to get it dirty or scratch it

I have been getting a lot of feedback from fellow employees... everyone is excited about the fab. Got the final welding done and will post pics probably tomorrow. I need to see if I can get it into the sandblaster so I can clean it up and get a few coats of paint on it before inauguration day

 

[IslandTractor]

I have been getting a lot of feedback from fellow employees... everyone is excited about the fab. Got the final welding done and will post pics probably tomorrow. I need to see if I can get it into the sandblaster so I can clean it up and get a few coats of paint on it before inauguration day

The paint won't last long.

 

[bluehog]

The paint won't last long.

I know.... but gotta get the first pics before the christenings

 

[bluehog]

Expect a learning curve. Smaller stuff with just rip out but bigger stumps and roots require some strategy. Basically, either work at the root close in buy chewing at it or driving the point through it or alternatively, pivot the BH away from the stump and rip the root a few feet away where it is smaller. On big stumps I work around them by changing tractor position by 90 degrees after ripping the roots I can easily reach. Keep moving around rather than stretching to reach. Don't try to rip a big root with the BH fully extended as you won't have as much leverage. Use both curl on the ripper and pulling with the dipper or up with main boom. You'll probably develop your own style just try different techniques. It is not simply like digging with a narrow bucket. Also, check the stability of the stump occasionally by putting the ripper over it and pulling. Two things to look for: first is how loose it is and second is to judge where the remaining stabilizing roots are based on how it pivots. I actually only rarely use the ripper to completely remove the stump. Once it is good and loose, I turn the tractor around and get the grapple under then use low range to push and lift. Often faster than completing the job with ripper alone. Besides, you will need the FEL end to move the stump anyways so don't hesitate to use the one two punch. It can also help identify the one root that needs more ripping. On a big stump I might reposition half a dozen times and
push with the grapples a time or two before winning.

I have printed your comments and will stick them in my backhoe manual tube so I make sure I have them with me. I'm looking forward to practicing the technique in the field. I know there will be a learning curve and I accept the challenge as these stumps gotta go! I also have purchased four 12" sawzall wood blades for those difficult roots that won't cooperate. I really appreciate the time you put into verbally training us newbies and all the suggestions as well. You are a long ways away from me... but I owe you a few :drink:

 

[bluehog]

Almost complete... just have the pin bores to cut to size. Hoping to complete early this week if the machine is available for me to use after work hours. My welder friend (Ron S.) did an awesome job providing welds that will outlast not just mine but my grandkids needs! :thumbsup:

The tip came out as I had hoped with the welds filling in the chamfers I had provided (I was a bit concerned about this ). I was hoping to put some "hardface" welds on the tip & cut edge prior to the first use... but it looks like that may have to wait until later, unless I can find a local source for a small quantity of rod (I don't need 10lbs, the good stuff is pricey!)

 

[IslandTractor]

Looks real nice.

 

[wedge40]

IslandTractor - I followed your thread before. What is the largest stump you've managed to dig up to date? I'm looking at a new tractor in the future and I could get a small CUT and a Mini-Ex or a larger tractor with basically a BH90x.

Wedge

 

[IslandTractor]

IslandTractor - I followed your thread before. What is the largest stump you've managed to dig up to date? I'm looking at a new tractor in the future and I could get a small CUT and a Mini-Ex or a larger tractor with basically a BH90x. Wedge

It was an oak. Diameter was a few inches less than 36" at waist height as I recall. Took a few hours to dig out. It was big enough that I couldn't lift it out of the hole and needed to use the BH to drag it out but then I could lift it a foot or two with grapple. My grapple opens about 46" and it was pretty full as I recall.

 

[Coyote machine]

I just dug out a stump from the driveway ditch at my flip property. I leave a bout two feet of stalk on stumps i know I'm going to be ripping out. This gives me the ability to use the stalk to leverage the stump and roots to see what is still holding the stump in the ground. In this case I was close to a maple I wanted to save on the upside bank above the stump. So I had to not disturb the maple's roots any more than necessary. I find if I can uncover the main roots or the tap root by using the ripper to scrape dirt away from the stump it gives me better ability to position the hoe where it is needed to accomplish the least effort and faster results. Periodically I will use the bucket of grapple to push or pull on the stalk to access what is left to rip. In this case in low range with diff locked I was able to force the stalk over and break the remaining roots by shear force of will and some tractor muscle. I find stumps that I have cut and left for some time will often break free sooner than ones recently cut. This is usually because the stump and roots have begun to die and harden and hard roots are more likely to give way under pressure than live ones, IMPE. New acronym: In My Personal Experience, (IMPE). BTW, getting off the tractor to use a sawzall blade is not allowed! International rules of stump removal prohibit any getting off the tractor or leaving the stump for anything but 1 10 min break per 2 hrs competition time frame.

I was wondering if you have a finished weight of your stump slayer? It looks good, but heavy to move around...