Backhoe Ripper tooth design - need your advice

[Coyote machine]

The end tooth is a replaceable tip. I will be mostly dealing with trenching in clay bases soil with a large amount of volcanic rounded rock. So I figured the solid tooth that you and Island Tractor have would get worn and damaged... so a replaceable tooth seemed logical... to me at least. I know that Island Tractor is not fond of it either. I am a bit worried about the weld of that item to shank as all the force will be of those welds.

In post #19 on page 2 I showed a few pics of the adapter and the replaceable tooth

IT and I are both in New England ~ AKA Rock land! There is hardly anywhere that has more rocks left over from glaciers ripping through the land than here. If you think you'll break off a 1/2" piece of steel in clay and volcanic ash formed softballs I'd be the first to admit surprise. I think you would be better off just having the end of the ripper tooth one integral piece. You could always weld on a replaceable tooth later if you started to experience premature wear..... Remember KISS principle; keep it simple stupid. IT has more use on his ripper, maybe he can comment on longevity of the end tooth?

 

[IslandTractor]

IT and I are both in New England ~ AKA Rock land! There is hardly anywhere that has more rocks left over from glaciers ripping through the land than here. If you think you'll break off a 1/2" piece of steel in clay and volcanic ash formed softballs I'd be the first to admit surprise. I think you would be better off just having the end of the ripper tooth one integral piece. You could always weld on a replaceable tooth later if you started to experience premature wear..... Remember KISS principle; keep it simple stupid. IT has more use on his ripper, maybe he can comment on longevity of the end tooth?

My ripper has been used quite a lot and I use it both for roots and to dig out rocks. After three seasons of use, the paint is gone but you'd need a sensitive micrometer to detect any metal loss from anywhere on the blade. I've probably lost more due to rust than wear. If that ever does happen I can weld a bit more steel onto the tip. 15 minute welding job.

My concern about the replaceable tip, and it is not a big concern, is that it is wider than the pointy tip on my ripper. There are times when I use the tip to tear up a rotten stump and it is nice to be able to put all the pressure into s single point rather than a 1 inch blade tip. Probably not critical. I just don't see the advantage for a non commercial implement and think it would be much simpler to just use a single piece ripper with a couple of supporting pieces on each side just as MIE did mine.

 

[Coyote machine]

Agreed. 2nd what IT said above.

 

[bluehog]

Alright, alright, alright! :ashamed:
You guys have convinced me to drop the replaceable tip design. I will redraw and post my final design. I hope to order the material tomorrow!

 

[MichiganIron]

Immitaion is the finest form of flattery !!!

 

[bluehog]

Immitaion is the finest form of flattery !!!

You are so right! I originally asked you guys last year about a replaceable tip and you stated it was not available. I then I procrastinate too long and decide to make my own with the replaceable tip (that I felt was SO important!) Now I scrap the tip idea thanks to sensible advice from your satisfied customers ( IslandTractor & Coyote machine) and I find myself with what I could have just got direct from you! But now my timeframe (3 weeks) does not allow me to have you build for me... MY BAD! :duh:

But this is good practice for me to fab something since I have access to all the equipment. It also has allowed me to use SketchUp 3D modeling software (free version) and get to understand that as well.

 

[bluehog]

SCRAPPED THE REPLACEABLE TIP IDEA! Here is the latest, refined, solid tipped version

I changed the teeth to be raised from the interior of shank profile rather than sunk into it. This gives it a slightly thicker mid section. I still plan on putting a cutting/knife edge at least on the first 3-4 teeth and the tip as well.

 

[IslandTractor]

SCRAPPED THE REPLACEABLE TIP IDEA! Here is the latest, refined, solid tipped version

I changed the teeth to be raised from the interior of shank profile rather than sunk into it. This gives it a slightly thicker mid section. I still plan on putting a cutting/knife edge at least on the first 3-4 teeth and the tip as well.

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=337482"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=337483"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=337484"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=337485"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=337486"/>

That's pretty much the MIE design which I happen to think is the simplest and best. I do wonder about your 1" main blade. I thought it wasn't quite that thick but could be wrong. I would have to defer to Coyote as I am not near mine.

 

[Coyote machine]

That's pretty much the MIE design which I happen to think is the simplest and best. I do wonder about your 1" main blade. I thought it wasn't quite that thick but could be wrong. I would have to defer to Coyote as I am not near mine.

Main blade is: 1/2" thick on my MIE designed ripper(claw) tooth. That's what's needed. If you want to double that dimension that's your choice, overkill for sure, but nonetheless your decision.
Time you got that we are here to assist you. :confused3: We know what is best, now go to your room!:laughing: No desert for you.:laughing:

 

[bluehog]

The main shank is 1" with 1/2" tooth reinforcement at the tip and constructed with A36 steel with a quench hardened beveled cutting edge. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...-added-ripper-my-woods-bh90x-ripper-00006.jpg

Now you got me confused guys... Island Tractor on post #6 stated 1" thick with 1/2" sides on tips. Coyote machine you have 1/2" thick with 1/2" sides on tip? Is 3/4" a compromise?:bawling:

 

[IslandTractor]

Now you got me confused guys... Island Tractor on post #6 stated 1" thick with 1/2" sides on tips. Coyote machine you have 1/2" thick with 1/2" sides on tip? Is 3/4" a compromise?:bawling:

If I said 1" thick earlier, I was wrong. The reinforced tip is more than an inch but the main body of the ripper is what coyote says. Mine is straight and true and it has a big chunk cut out of the middle due to some rather exaggerated concerns about total weight. If you did 1/2" with additional 1/2" side supports at the tip you'll be fine.

 

[Coyote machine]

The curved arc with the teeth on the inside and backside is: 1/2". It is the thing that looks like a half moon. I measured it myself. 1/2", 1/2", 1/2"
Your move.....

 

[schmism]

so what about just going to the heavy equipment bone yard and buying an existing ripper shank. and welding it to a frame with ears.

might need to cut those down a bit if you pick something from like a D6 and up.

 

[bluehog]

so what about just going to the heavy equipment bone yard and buying an existing ripper shank. and welding it to a frame with ears.

might need to cut those down a bit if you pick something from like a D6 and up.

If I have to ever fab this again with the replaceable tip... I think your suggestion is a valid one. My main concern was the pressure on the tip adapter welded to my design. This approach would take away that concern. I did see these available when I returned the Series 23 adapter & tip(s) I had purchased from HEM in Phoenix. HEM was good about refunding me without a restocking charge.

 

[bluehog]

Just an update... I have ordered my stock and will be working on this next week. I decided on the 3/4" for the shank/blade and since I had to purchase my stock in a 24"x24" sheets, I chose to upgrade all the 3/8" items (front & back plates and mid gussets) to 1/2" rather than buy a whole square of both 1/2" & 3/8". Although I just added extra weight it will save me some ca$h.

I will keep you informed and if I can get some pics of the fab process I will post them here.

... The MIE ripper design was worked out by myself and MIE based on a design I saw of a ripper made by a British company for much larger excavators so the overall shape and proportions resemble that one but scaled down...

Immitaion is the finest form of flattery !!!

:drink: I just want to say thanks everyone for the suggestions... especially IslandTractor & MIE for initially taking the time to fab the awesome original design! :thumbsup:

 

[IslandTractor]

SCRAPPED THE REPLACEABLE TIP IDEA! Here is the latest, refined, solid tipped version

I changed the teeth to be raised from the interior of shank profile rather than sunk into it. This gives it a slightly thicker mid section. I still plan on putting a cutting/knife edge at least on the first 3-4 teeth and the tip as well.

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=337482"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=337483"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=337484"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=337485"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=337486"/>

Before you cut, double check your pin diameters. Just measured mine. Main is 1.5" and the second is 1.25. Mine is BH90x so may be different from your BH9000.

 

[bluehog]

Before you cut, double check your pin diameters. Just measured mine. Main is 1.5" and the second is 1.25. Mine is BH90x so may be different from your BH9000.

My pins are identical... but thanks for taking a final look at things before the fab begins. I will keep everyone informed of the progress. I have my design laid out for the waterjet to cut out all components. I will be starting with the bushings/collars for the pin guides (hopefully tomorrow) while I wait for the waterjet to open up.

 

[IslandTractor]

My pins are identical... but thanks for taking a final look at things before the fab begins. I will keep everyone informed of the progress. I have my design laid out for the waterjet to cut out all components. I will be starting with the bushings/collars for the pin guides (hopefully tomorrow) while I wait for the waterjet to open up.

Wish I had a waterjet!

 

[bluehog]

Wish I had a waterjet!

Same here! They are incredible at what they are capable of doing & quickly. It is nice having access to it :cool2:

Here is the file view for the 1/2" stock

Here is the file view for the 3/4" stock

 

[Arc weld]

If you wanted to use ripper shanks like the ones in the picture, it's highly unlikely you'd have any success welding them. They are a heat treated wear resistant alloy. If you could make them so they are pin on would be a better option. You could cut or have cut steel shanks to fit the pin on teeth. Then you don't have to weld an adapter on. Rippers for excavators usually have more curve to the shank.