A few dumb chainsaw questions

[dgeesaman]

I've been using a borrowed saw lately (an old school Homelite XL 14") and getting some stuff cleaned up around our property. But the time is coming for it to go back and I should be ready for winter and the fall storm season with my own. I've researched a bit and decided that I'd like a mid-size all-around farm/ranch saw. I've also decided that for another $100 I would be willing to buy a full "pro" line saw if it will work better in my hands and last longer. Based on these criteria I have been looking at Stihl and Husqvarna.

I will use it for:
- Clearing fallen trees (oak, shagbark hickory)
- Breaking down damaged oak pallets
- Removing a couple of junk pine trees and heavy shrubs around the house
- Firewood cutting, maybe. I have 4 acres of wooded land that I can consider for harvesting. Our forced-air allows wood burning or heat pump and I have a good cord of oak to try this thing out this winter.
- For any felling of heavy trees I'll call my boss from work because he does chainsaw work for fun and he has experience with that stuff.

So, some dumb questions:
1) It seems I can get a midrange saw (MS271 or 450) for $400, or for $100-150 more I can get a true pro quality saw. (MS261, 346XP). While that difference is not chump change, if the saw lasts longer, is more serviceable, etc I think that it's a reasonable upgrade to consider. I sense that with what the EPA is imposing on small engines, the average cost of a good saw is going to increase even more rapidly in the future, so the later upgrade will come at a steeper cost. Is this worth considering?

2) If I buy one of the "pro" class saws listed above, is there anything about it that is less appropriate for an occasional user?

3) I have a Neilsen 100B chainsaw grinder in my shop left behind by the previous owner. It looks to be in good shape and very sturdy. While I plan to use a guide/files for most sharpenings, grinding is apparently still required sometimes. Will this grinder serve the purpose? Anywhere I can get a manual?


4) I learned recently that outboard marine engines have a parts availability of about 10 years. Most engines last a lot longer than that, making life very difficult. Does this same crap happen with chainsaws? Between Stihl and Husqvarna, mid-range vs pro, is there a difference in long-term parts availability?

Thanks in advance.

 

[deerseeker001]

that would work fine.i sharpen my chain to 30 degrees.

 

[dgeesaman]

Referring to the grinder I assume?

 

[Turbys_1700]

It comes down to how much are you gonna use the saw, how big of a bar do you want to run, and how much do you want to spend...
I personally look at the weight as the deciding factor...
At my age I want a light and powerful power head...
I would look at Stihl, Husqvarna, Echo, Dolmar, not in any particular order...
Stihl has the most servicing dealers around here but I would not be hesitant on any of those I listed above...
The homeowner type saws are fine for most folk...

 

[deerseeker001]

yes set the grinder to 30 degree angle to grind the chain.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

We picked up a used 360 Stihl and forget what I paid but could have bought some new in the 200 series for the same money.

I just wished I had bought a professional grade chain saw when I bought my first one 25 years ago. I would have been $500-600 but it would have been worth it.

Unprofessional or professional grade saws all have issues if only used for five minutes every five years. :thumbdown:

 

[newbury]

I will use it for:
- Clearing fallen trees (oak, shagbark hickory)
- Breaking down damaged oak pallets
- Removing a couple of junk pine trees and heavy shrubs around the house
- Firewood cutting, maybe. I have 4 acres of wooded land that I can consider for harvesting. Our forced-air allows wood burning or heat pump and I have a good cord of oak to try this thing out this winter.

So, some dumb questions:
1) It seems I can get a midrange saw (MS271 or 450) for $400, or for $100-150 more I can get a true pro quality saw. (MS261, 346XP). While that difference is not chump change, if the saw lasts longer, is more serviceable, etc I think that it's a reasonable upgrade to consider. I sense that with what the EPA is imposing on small engines, the average cost of a good saw is going to increase even more rapidly in the future, so the later upgrade will come at a steeper cost. Is this worth considering?

When you move up to a "pro" saw you increase the chances of it lasting a long time. Saws won't get cheaper.

2) If I buy one of the "pro" class saws listed above, is there anything about it that is less appropriate for an occasional user?

Not really. Just try not to put ethanol in it.

3) I have a Neilsen 100B chainsaw grinder in my shop left behind by the previous owner. It looks to be in good shape and very sturdy. While I plan to use a guide/files for most sharpenings, grinding is apparently still required sometimes. Will this grinder serve the purpose? Anywhere I can get a manual?
View attachment 337048

Check on arboristsite.com, they have a sharpening subforum that's hard to find, it's under hot saws.

4) I learned recently that outboard marine engines have a parts availability of about 10 years. Most engines last a lot longer than that, making life very difficult. Does this same crap happen with chainsaws? Between Stihl and Husqvarna, mid-range vs pro, is there a difference in long-term parts availability?

Thanks in advance.

Stihl is very well supported. Parts saws are around for pro saws long out of production. I expect Husky is the same way.

 

[dgeesaman]

I just wished I had bought a professional grade chain saw when I bought my first one 25 years ago. I would have been $500-600 but it would have been worth it.

That's what I'm thinking about now, and why I'm leaning toward the bigger purchase.

Unprofessional or professional grade saws all have issues if only used for five minutes every five years. :thumbdown:

Yes of course. Just like lawnmowers, string trimmers, and marine outboards. Just imagine how much less frustration would exist in this world if the gas had no ethanol and people would follow proper long-term storage methods.

 

[TheRealWorld]

Stihl is the best saw made, but the most expensive. Also get a big one, saves time and is nice. Some of the cheap ones work guite well, but you will buy several if you take that route. Also find a capble person to teach you how to sharpen with a file, saves time and trips! Good luck.

 

[RobertBrown]

I don't think need to spend the extra money for the better saw. Doesn't soud like you are going to use it enough to matter.
A home owners will probably last as long if it is maintained properly. There just isn't that much to a chainsaw, the design has been the same for decades. Parts are available.
If you want to spend the extra money for the better saw that's fine but you could spend that money on some other stuff youll need.

 

[nikdfish]

Just bought a Stihl MS290 "Farm Boss" with an 18" bar at the local JD dealer. List was $389 (as I recall) but they cut me some slack. It replaces a Poulan 18" "Wild Thing" that was dieing of ethanol rot. Night and day difference between the Stihl still in the process of breaking in and the Poulan on it's best day. Wish I had gone this route years ago. BTW Stihl doubles the warranty on the saw if you buy a 6 pack of their mix oil when you buy a saw (also true with other Stihl equipment, trimmers, blowers, etc).

Since ethanol free is not an option around here, I've gone to using an additive to combat the effects of ethanol & using premium gas in the mix. Hopefully this gives the new equipment a better shot at a longer working life

Nick

 

[Gale Hawkins]

I don't think need to spend the extra money for the better saw. Doesn't soud like you are going to use it enough to matter.
A home owners will probably last as long if it is maintained properly. There just isn't that much to a chainsaw, the design has been the same for decades. Parts are available.
If you want to spend the extra money for the better saw that's fine but you could spend that money on some other stuff youll need.

I know how you feel because I felt the same way. What I found after getting the old used 360 Stihl was the lesser Stihl saws that I had owned and still own just do not do as much work and do not have the same feel. The chains on home owner grade saws just need more sharping and readjusting ALL of the time.

Bucking, jumping and hanging up are factors that I did not mention too.

Now there are many who have not business owning a profession grade chain saw. The 85 year old that sold me his 360 was buying a new easy start Stihl with what I was paying him. A $100 saw that will cut small storm limbs is all some will need. Even better for many is an electric chainsaw and they come in all grades too.

 

[JimRB]

Pallets might be hard on your chain, maybe not. I have never had an issue with chain tension and my homeowner Stihl saws. I do use Stihl mix and premium gas. So far I have not had starting issues. Saws sit around until I need them so it could be a few months or half a year between uses. I have a MS 210 and a MS 310. The bigger saw is heavy. I like using the small saw when possible. Also the smaller saw probably uses less fuel. I also hand sharpen. I can't see any need for machine sharpening but maybe that is just the way I use my saws.

 

[cycle_gator]

Brand choice is very personal. I have used Stihl and Husky and have no preference.
I have a 30 year old Homelite Super XL, at that time it was a homeowner saw, but is more like the proline saws of today. Still going strong. I also own a Stihl MS 185.

two big differences in these saws:
Weight Homelite weighs about 2x the Stihl, so they get used very differently. limbing trees, it is thhe Stihl, bucking firewood, it is the Homelite.
Fuel, the Homelite will burn just about anything. If the gas in the Stihl is olde than three months it is noticeably down on power, more than 6 months, it essentially refuses to run. My Dad's larger Husky is exactly the same, must have fresh gas to run right.

Chain sharpening -- I keep three to four chains sharp al the time. I gave up trying to do it myself and take them to someone with a grinder. The chains last just as long and they cut much, much better. If I were you I would learn how to use that grinder and then use that, exclusively.

 

[xring100]

MS261 260 026 are all an excellent light weight pro saw good power for their size. My dad still has his old 026 i cut a lot of wood with that when i was a kid. If your cutting mostly stuff less than 10" it is a good size. They will turn a 20" bar but are a slow for my taste if you load them up with big logs.
My small saw is a MS361 4.4 hp 12.3 lb head its lighter than the 362 slightly less power though 4.6 hp 13 lbd. My 361 works great with a 20" bar nicely balanced.

i believe Huskies in the range of the 362 are either lighter or have more power same is true for ms441 is 5.6 hp and 14.6 lbs ms461 6.0 hp 14.6 lbs
husky 372xp like my buddies is 5.3 hp 13.4 lb head if i had to have one saw it would be the 372XP and I'm a die hard Stihl saw fan.

My big saw is a ms660 7.0 hp 16.5 lbs
Would be very low on my list if i had to pick one saw. Its one of the highest power to weight saws on the market the 7 hp is awesome and my saw of choice when dealing with logs over about 12" or processing logs on my saw buck. It puts a smile on your face when in action but carry it around for a couple hours cutting small stuff and you'll dream for a small saw.

I believe the more power approach
good luck

 

[JimRB]

I like Xring's post. My MS210 is a bit low on power but I need a saw for cleanup, not firewood. I had a wild hair and got the MS310 which has enough power for my playing around. Xring has some sweet big boy saws.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Dad traded his gear drive McCullen (sp) for a Homelite Super XL and that had to be around early 60's and he die in 1993 owning several because he would buy for little or be given good ones by people who got too old to handle the weight. If he got a better one he used it but many were part saws. He had a mini Stihl at the end because he had quit heating with wood.

 

[Egon]

Get the Pro saw, two bars of different length, and several chains for each bar.o:thumbsup:

Be advised that chains are not created equally. Some are designed for safety. Others cut fast. If you overheat a chain chuck it or just use it for very rough work. Save chains near the end of their life span for the rough stuff.

 

[RandyBell]

I have a 036 PRO Stihl that I bought used a few years back for 100, I had to clean the oiler pump up to get it working. I down sized the bar to 18" just because I have numerous chains that size. I think it is the perfect size for most cutting, and I heat entirely with wood!
I don't think there is enough difference between the homeowner and the pro in the sizes you mentioned. I use True Blue Racing Fuel in mine to get away from the ethanol in the unleaded gas, it is expensive but you aren't using that much to hurt to bad. If it is going to be sitting a lot use stabil in your gas and try to run it empty before you put it away!

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Orcheln Farm and Hardware had some 40:1 premixed non ethanol 92 octane using synthetic 2 cycle oil they were clearing for $5 a quart. I wanted 50:1 but picked up two cans just in case. It is to be good for a couple years but do not know how old it is now. If a neighbor is hard up for saw gas I will just hand them a can maybe.