Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Pull type blower verses snow berms

[degerb]

Thank you for your input.. I'm originally from the Soo area so I can relate to snow but even we didn't get dumped on like you guys up at Marquette! Here in N. Idaho as we are quite dry so we don't get a lot of snow at one time. A foot or so at a time is about it, that happening about 6 or 7 times a year. So I'm still thinking a rear pull might do the trick.

 

[kco]

Your snow conditions sound similar to mine degerb--i.e. several dumps of snow but 12" or under. I have a Meteor pull-type and think it is ideal for my conditions. I agree with CDN Farm Boy's suggestions, especially the one about not needing a cab. Your temperatures are likely similar to mine (Armstrong BC) and I don't find it cold as long as I dress right. But we get very little wind here. There are times when a cab would be nice but it would prevent me doing a lot of other work in the bush, so it isn't practical for me(plus I can't afford it). The other factor is, I've always enjoyed winter--even in my 1960's lineman days in Manitoba. I have a much harder time with summer heat. That's when I'd really like an air conditioned cab.

As Farm Boy suggests, a hydraulic chute turner is very handy. My layout calls for frequent chute direction changes so I would not be without it. I don't have the extra port for the deflector and do not need to change the deflection very often. But it would be nice, and I may eventually add an electric linear actuator for that function.

As Farm Boy says, Meteor and Lucknow make good blowers. Pronovost and Normand are more substantial but perhaps overkill. Another blower that looked as substantial is the Erskine brand from Minnesota. They make a good looking pull type. It would have been my first choice but the shipping was expensive. It won't be as bad to your area.

Good luck on your search.

 

[WilliamBos]

Inverted pull blowers are the best way to go. My next blower will be a pill. Dasd ran one for over 30 years hooked to our MF 35, never once got stuck!!

 

[smfcpacfp]

Here's my thoughts:

1. If you are only doing your own snow, you don't NEED a cab regardless of what anyone tells you. Are they nice to have? You bet! Bundle up, plan your direction with the wind and you can survive just fine without. I've got 25 yrs doing my own snow with open stations, 1/4 mile lane in the wide open wind.

I always chuckle when I see a post like this, and you see it often on snow removal forums. CDN Farm Boy is correct, you don't need the cab. I have yet to see anyone with a cab say, "I hate this cab, especially in the winter." I feel like replying, "You don't NEED an indoor toilet, you could just go out in the woods and dig a hole to do your business. Think of the money you save on plumbing, heating and floor space. However an indoor toilet is nice."

Regarding the cab... If I had to go out in an open station tractor in the dark, in a blizzard all bundled up with my ski mask, snowmobile suit, heavy duty gloves and -100 Cabela boots on, it would be a task I would dread. Instead I can't wait to put my light sweatshirt, pajama bottoms, no gloves and light boots, get in my warmed up tractor and get out in that blizzard at night and throw the snow around. The nastier the blizzard, the more fun it is to be in the cab. What would be an unpleasant task in an open station tractor, is a blast in a cabbed, heated tractor.

 

[aczlan]

I always chuckle when I see a post like this, and you see it often on snow removal forums. CDN Farm Boy is correct, you don't need the cab. I have yet to see anyone with a cab say, "I hate this cab, especially in the winter." I feel like replying, "You don't NEED an indoor toilet, you could just go out in the woods and dig a hole to do your business. Think of the money you save on plumbing, heating and floor space. However an indoor toilet is nice."

Regarding the cab... If I had to go out in an open station tractor in the dark, in a blizzard all bundled up with my ski mask, snowmobile suit, heavy duty gloves and -100 Cabela boots on, it would be a task I would dread. Instead I can't wait to put my light sweatshirt, pajama bottoms, no gloves and light boots, get in my warmed up tractor and get out in that blizzard at night and throw the snow around. The nastier the blizzard, the more fun it is to be in the cab. What would be an unpleasant task in an open station tractor, is a blast in a cabbed, heated tractor.

I agree. We have a aftermarket cab on our BX2660, it leaks air all over the place, but it keeps most of the wind (and all of the snow) off of you and it makes it very enjoyable to be out plowing snow when it would be nasty in the open station B7500.

Aaron Z

 

[degerb]

Hey Aaron, what kind of cab do you have? I've been looking at the Sims cabs, nice but pricey.. I thought about the Regal canvas types but they went out of business last winter. I will admit the thought of an open cab with snow falling off the trees and dumping on me as I drive under them, leaves me kind of cold:laughing: I have a JD 166 with a 40" Berco blower now, so I'm no stranger to that sort of thing!

 

[degerb]

Thanks kco.. Yes I think we both have similar winters, a foot of snow followed by a short warming trend and then more snow. Very little powder snow here unfortunately, unless we get a nor'easter out of Manitoba!

 

[aczlan]

The one on the BX2660 is a Curtis cab. IMO, if you just want something to keep the snow off you (then pull in the summer), get one from the Original Tractor Cab company. Where I used to work, we had on one a Cub Cadet GT3200 and it was much cheaper than a Curtis (1/3 the price), but it was decent quality (if you are just going to use in the winter).

Aaron Z

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

I always chuckle when I see a post like this, and you see it often on snow removal forums. CDN Farm Boy is correct, you don't need the cab. I have yet to see anyone with a cab say, "I hate this cab, especially in the winter." I feel like replying, "You don't NEED an indoor toilet, you could just go out in the woods and dig a hole to do your business. Think of the money you save on plumbing, heating and floor space. However an indoor toilet is nice."

I agree, that would be the "Are they nice to have? You bet!" part of my comment. And a rather interesting comparison you make.

To use you own analogy, if you were in the midst of a full day's work in the bush and had to go #1, would you drive to the heated bathroom of the house or just go beside a tree?

Do you agree that it makes more sense to use what ya got (and help others to use theirs to the best of abilities) rather than telling someone that they can't do snow with an open station? There is often much confusion in the difference between NEEDS and WANTS when in reality they are very different.

 

[degerb]

Hey guys I agree with both of you, excellant points. There is definitely a difference between needing and wanting. That old saying "If Wishes and Buts were Candy and Nuts what a Merry Xmas we would have" is very true. We have a lot of tall fir trees that I have to plow under. I will admit after a heavy snowfall and when those big wads of wet snow is coming down on my head and down my neck, it really makes me wish for a nice warm cab! I checked Curtis Cabs and The Original Cab Co.both of which require a ROP to attach them. Both are designed for a much smaller tractor than I currently have. I guess until my ship comes in I'll just have to suffer and make do with an open cab and enjoy the fresh air!

 

[aczlan]

I checked Curtis Cabs and The Original Cab Co.both of which require a ROP to attach them. Both are designed for a much smaller tractor than I currently have. I guess until my ship comes in I'll just have to suffer and make do with an open cab and enjoy the fresh air!

Odd, the Original Cab Co. cab on the Cub GT3200 where I used to work did NOT require ROPS attachment (which is good as it doesn't have one)
You might make a frame out of 3/4" PVC and drop a golf cart canopy over it. Should be under $250 for everything.

Aaron Z

 

[smfcpacfp]

I agree, that would be the "Are they nice to have? You bet!" part of my comment. And a rather interesting comparison you make.

To use you own analogy, if you were in the midst of a full day's work in the bush and had to go #1, would you drive to the heated bathroom of the house or just go beside a tree?

Do you agree that it makes more sense to use what ya got (and help others to use theirs to the best of abilities) rather than telling someone that they can't do snow with an open station? There is often much confusion in the difference between NEEDS and WANTS when in reality they are very different.

Where I live, all I have are trees. My outside is my#1 toilet. I agree you should use what you have if feasible. I ordered what I wanted and needed, when I ordered my tractor. I am not familiar with anyone who confuses NEEDS and WANTS. Why would anyone give up what they WANT if it is more than what they NEED, if wants are feasible. I guess masochists think that way, but not I.

I think we agree essentially, but the original idea here was would a pull thru blower would handle road berms well. I really don't know since I don't have a pull through rig. Personally I think it would be difficult if the tractor would not push thru the hard pack snow berm. There is no doubt that that a front blower with have little problem with issue. I deal with that issue all of the time.

 

[CDN Farm Boy]

I think we agree essentially, but the original idea here was would a pull thru blower would handle road berms well. I really don't know since I don't have a pull through rig. Personally I think it would be difficult if the tractor would not push thru the hard pack snow berm. There is no doubt that that a front blower with have little problem with issue. I deal with that issue all of the time.

I
4. To deal with a plow ridge bigger than you can drive thru, raise the blower to the top, back up over the ridge (stop when the back tires start to climb the bank), drop the blower and pull ahead. Repeat as necessary.

I've removed 5' high x 10' wide plow ridges with this method. And the ridges are usually half ice when I get to them as it's usually people that come home after a few weeks south and want their driveway opened.


About the only down side to a pull type is you can't move a pile like you can with either a front mount or conventional rear mount if the blower is the same width as the tractor. If the blower is wider than the tractor, you can nibble into the bank.

 

[PILOON]

Another consideration for pull type is your tractor weight.
While mine is conventional back up type, I notice that in certain snow conditions the snow simply compacts under my wheels as my tractor being a 20 hp CUT lacks the weight to doze thru.
Then follows a bumpy ride. I wonder if a pull would be practical on a CUT?
A heavier tractor would simply squish thru to the road bed.

In these parts the pull blower is mainly used by contractors in suburbs where houses are every 500 ft. The guys back up to the garage doors and drive off to the next house. all of 10 mins per client! Most use 8 ft pulls on 100 hp tractors (cabbed)

 

[rmorey]

Just a tip...if you get hydro rotation on the pull type blower, set the stops BEFORE you use it. That thing can put 2500 lbs of wet snow down your neck, before you realize what happened. Ask me how I know!

 

[degerb]

I will primarily have to deal with berms thrown up by plows parallel with the road way. I don't have too many piles to deal with. Nibbling away at the berms makes sense! My question is this.. What width is the norm for a pull type or inverted blower or is there such a thing? My tractor's track width is 60", which width would be best a 68" or a 75". My 50 hp tractor will handle both, but at this point I think I am going to go with a Martin Meteor 68" with with hyd chute rotation.

 

[kco]

I will primarily have to deal with berms thrown up by plows parallel with the road way. I don't have too many piles to deal with. Nibbling away at the berms makes sense! My question is this.. What width is the norm for a pull type or inverted blower or is there such a thing? My tractor's track width is 60", which width would be best a 68" or a 75". My 50 hp tractor will handle both, but at this point I think I am going to go with a Martin Meteor 68" with with hyd chute rotation.

I have a 75" Meteor pull-type and no experience with the 68". The 75" is heavier built than the 68" and they are rated at 50hp for the 75" and 35 hp for the 68". I think these may be maximum horsepower ratings since my DK35SE HST (with just 28 hp PTO) has no trouble with the 75" (my dealer assured me it would handle it). Other TBNers who know more about equipment (i.e. 99% of them?) may have a better idea regarding blower hp ratings. It may be worth asking MK Martin (Meteor manufacturer) about it. I talked to them when researching blowers a couple of years ago and they were very helpful as were others I contacted.

As I said in another post, the Erskine looked like the best of Lucknow, Meteor and Erskine, but they were expensive for shipping to my location. The Lucknow also looked good but Meteor won out due to shipping (plus I think I liked Meteor's chute rotator better).

Cheers

 

[JerryK]

The bigger blowers usually have a larger gear box, which should be sized at least as large as the avail HP. Hard for a little tractor to tear up a big one, but easy for a big tractor to tear up a little one. Most of these gear boxes are just standard off the shelf stuff, used on blowers and bush hogs/etc. They are designed for standard jumps in HP, say 30, 60, 100. Same with the PTO shaft.. Bigger rating is always better. You should shoot for at least 2-3 inches wider than your tire track, if not 4-6". You can add width with wings if you have too, but if you are buying new the next bigger size is usually a good long term investment. I run mine just outside of my right tire, and sticking out on the left. This helps with the PTO shaft alignment [PTO's usually are offset just to the left of center looking at the rear of the tractor]. Plus gives me lots of clearance on the left [between tire and mailbox/etc.], which is my usual cutting edge whilst blowing. Also depends on how tight you set your side to side stabilizers. You can have a lot of side to side slop if you don't have them or they are setup too loose.
I still don't see the facination with a pull type, other than being able to blow forward. I have a big heavy CUT, and don't see how it could work trying to drive thru heavy snow pulling one. And the bank cutting thing, you'd be adding to the packing of the bank by driving over it. Most larger cuts are not that uncomfortable sitting side sadle going backwards. And you don't have to stare at it 24/7, much more than running a backblade/etc. I sit looking over my right shoulder, left hand on steering knob, right avail to raise/lower or rotate chute. You can do some creative remodeling of things that are in your way to be comforatable. And the cab thing, there are lots of shinny N.H. and Case cab'd tractors around here. Most of the duct taped cab repairs I have seen are the back left top corner... Northern Michigan hardwood forests are hard on cabs...

 

[Deerherd]

In these parts the pull blower is mainly used by contractors in suburbs where houses are every 500 ft. The guys back up to the garage doors and drive off to the next house. all of 10 mins per client! Most use 8 ft pulls on 100 hp tractors (cabbed)

Can somebody explain to me why this is better and or easier? You still have to back up the full length of the driveway and you have now run over/packed down the snow TWICE. My old neighbor had a pull type and he was constantly scraping these frozen tracks by hand off his paved drive.

He spent WAY too much time being a traffic hazard trying to whittle away the big piles at the road when a single trip in each direction with a rear blower would have taken care of it. Never mind the fact he would have to get towed out of the ditch three to four times a year. He didn't have to edge his driveway though, he removed three feet of sod every winter.

I need to purchase a blower in the next month or two and keep looking at the pull type because of my 2800' drive. I ordered a plow that will be used 90% of the time but other than going in reverse, the benefits of the rear blower seem to far outweigh the pull type or am I missing something here?

 

[rmorey]

Can somebody explain to me why this is better and or easier? You still have to back up the full length of the driveway and you have now run over/packed down the snow TWICE. My old neighbor had a pull type and he was constantly scraping these frozen tracks by hand off his paved drive.

He spent WAY too much time being a traffic hazard trying to whittle away the big piles at the road when a single trip in each direction with a rear blower would have taken care of it. Never mind the fact he would have to get towed out of the ditch three to four times a year. He didn't have to edge his driveway though, he removed three feet of sod every winter.

I need to purchase a blower in the next month or two and keep looking at the pull type because of my 2800' drive. I ordered a plow that will be used 90% of the time but other than going in reverse, the benefits of the rear blower seem to far outweigh the pull type or am I missing something here?

Deerherd,

Most long driveways are gravel covered. As a result, you need to leave a small covering of snow on the driveway to limit the gravel thrown into the ditch by the blower.

In the normal course of blowing out my driveway, I would start up the tractor, blow down the rh side of the driveway to the road, clean up the entrance with the fel, then blow back to the house on the lh side. I dont back and forth anywhere.