A little bit more technical advice please

[MickeyC]

Yeah I see what are saying... Man that looks like it would be ultra tight. Another question... When changing the tranny, hyd, diff... What kind of multi oil do you suggest for all three? And to check after refilling... Fill tranny to the fill plug on the fight side of the case right above the floor board. And fill the diff and hyd to the correct level on the dip stick with lift arms in raised position... Correct?

 

[Soundguy]

utf oil meeting m2c134 spec ( most meets it ).. tsc has some for 32$ / 5g right now ).

trans, seperate sump filled to check plug right side as you said.

hyds is a seperate compartment. fill as per dipstick on left by pto shifter..

diffy is a seperate sump.. fill to check plug on left rear of trumpet housing.. big pipe plug..

 

[Soundguy]

ps.. lift arms make lil difference. hyd cyl holds? 8oz oil? out of 2g? I doubt you can see that on the stick.

if you have / had large SA external hyd sinstalled.. you would check with those extended. that sump has space to hold quite a bit more oil.. at least a gallon more..e tc.. so reasonable 'overfill' is a NON issue.

some of my fords with loaders with large SA luft cy;s sucked the sump dry just getting the boom up.. then I filled it to the bottom of the safe hatch on the stick.. and all was fine when relaxed.. oil didn't run out under the seat or anything..

 

[MickeyC]

Thanks soundguy, I really appreciate it. I did get the FO-20 manual but these questions aren't covered that I saw anyways. I asked the same tranny, hyd, diff question at the dealership and the guy told me the hyd, diff is all the same case and was all one In the same... So thanks for the clarification. You are correct on the aux hyd valve... It is AICO and it is leaking from the spool valves where the levers are connected. I have no plans on using it right away, but just don't like the leaking. The way the valve is set up is with only one line coming out of it to a qd to the back. And I did not follow you completely when you explained the oil tube might not be connected under the valve cover...?

 

[Soundguy]

Thanks soundguy, I really appreciate it. I did get the FO-20 manual but these questions aren't covered that I saw anyways. I asked the same tranny, hyd, diff question at the dealership and the guy told me the hyd, diff is all the same case and was all one In the same... So thanks for the clarification. You are correct on the aux hyd valve... It is AICO and it is leaking from the spool valves where the levers are connected. I have no plans on using it right away, but just don't like the leaking. The way the valve is set up is with only one line coming out of it to a qd to the back. And I did not follow you completely when you explained the oil tube might not be connected under the valve cover...?

dealership guy is poorly informed. you'd think he might know his job better... reflects poorly ont he manager that trained him and the dealership in general.

the later series had a common hyds and rear.

the oil doesn't free flow up thru the head and lube the top end .. it goes thru a tube.

check yer exploded parts diagram for the head and valve train and I think you will understand.. otherwise when you pull the valve cover.. I KNOW you will understand...

edit... was gonna try to post a pic.. but having connection trouble I guess..

 

[MickeyC]

Yeah the parts guy... he is part owner in the family business..... Thanks for the proper info. I did read somewhere on a form... Some said multi in the tranny, hyd. And some kinda gear oil is better in the diff, but other say the seals between the cases aren't that great and they can mix...? What would be best?

 

[Soundguy]

if you don't know the quality of the seal between hyds and rear.. go utf in all 3.

if you know the seal is tight.. you can go gear oil in the diffy and utf in the hyds. trans can get utf or gear oil. your call. just don't put plain hyd oil in the hyds.. IF it did leak into the diffy it would dilute the lube qualities needed in the diffy.

some like to buy just 1 type of oil pail / bulk.. etc.. and go utf.. etc.

 

[MickeyC]

Thanks again soundguy, I will get it done and for sure have some more questions to come along.

 

[MickeyC]

Hey soundman, I have been plugging away on the 4000 trying to go over everything real good before I put it to work. Changed all the fluids, filter, plugs, ect... I had a little oil seeping from the rocker cover gasket (top) and the push rod cover (side) so replaced both of those. New horizonal oem type exhaust. Got a new gauge kit, still gotta get to that... But a couple quick questions. I was going over the 3 point lift and all its linkage and found a couple bad bolts I feel I should replace. The two square head bolts that hold the lower lift arms to the lift fork rod and the fork rod with the leveling box. I was wondering where I could find the bolts, or what to even call them. Thanks for any help.

 

[Soundguy]

check the exploded parts diagram.. they may be listed by parts # or mention procure locally if a common bolt/nut.. etc.

 

[MickeyC]

Hey soundman, well I got everything tighten up and gone over, and had a chance to run it today for a while. I scraped a couple driveways and I noticed after the tractor got warmed up and worked it a good bit it seems to cough a little bit with a couple back fire pops. I first noticed it under load and it seems to gallop a little bit back and forth, on and off the govenor. I did put a new screen and bowl gasket on the sediment bowl when I services everything. I am running fresh gas with ethenol treatment mixed in. I did check air gap on the points and set them to .025". I did notice when I checked air gap there was no gasket under the dust cap and the rotor has a good bit of play back and forth on the post. Cap seems to be ok. The way it was running I am thinking that it is a Timing issue...? Or something to do with the cap, rotor...? It ran fine before it got good and warm. And had not shown any signs of that the other half dozen times I have fired it up to check things out of to move it in and out of the garage or anything. Any thoughts...? Thanks.

 

[Soundguy]

4000 4 cyl right?

does the rotor hav ethe lil clip on the dizy shaft? the rotor should fit TIGHT tot he shaft.

if you lost the clip.. it's 6$ from NH for a clip that has less metal in it than a paperclip.

for the time being a piece of masking tape over the dizzy shaft with the rotor pushed down on it will accomplish the same thing.

that MAY be it as that will play with advance settings.

if that's not it.. see if a hair of choke helps.

 

[MickeyC]

Thanks soundguy... Correct 4cyl (63' 4000) I did fire her up again today and same thing. Now it doesn't even want to respond to throttling up, It takes a couple seconds to catch up. But when it does it runs just find till it starts to pull on the govenor... I will try the masking tape trick. I did try a touch of choke, and no help... Just get too rich and wants to choke out. I know I need to get a new rotor, cap and maybe some new points. But I wondered if I shouldn't worry about the points and just get an electric ignition...? Any thoughts on the electric ignition? And a couple questions that should be self explanatory, but i just don't know. I have a 12v system I believe, I have a 12v battery and neg is ground, but I believe I have a generator...? How efficient is that compared to an alternator? And the air cleaner... I mean I have changed the steel wool elements in the 2n before, but this air cleaner on this 4000... the bottom retainer doesn't seem to come out so I can replace them. It looks like the bottom (retainer disc) is tack welded to the center through tube of the air cleaner housing...? Thanks for any help in advance soundguy, Much appreciated.

 

[kf4uda]

Electronic ignition is somewhere around $135. A tune up kit with points, condenser and 4 spark plugs can be had for less than $20. That's why I stay with points.

 

[Soundguy]

If YOU WANTED TO GO TO THE CONSIDERABLE EXPENSE OF ei.. i'D RECCOMEND GETTING THE POINTS SYSTEM WORKING 100% first!!

that said.

if the rotor is LOOSE on the dizzy shaft. fix that beofre anything else.

genny are not as efficient as alts.. but they work. I have a 12v genny on some of my units. battery stays up.. I just don't idle around all day.

you can't troubleshoot furthere till you get the rotor stuck in place.

 

[MickeyC]

10-4 soundguy I will get on it. You are right I have idled a good bit while trying to get everything said and done, and the battery needed a jump yesterday. Not much experience with the gen. The 2N had a alt on it when I got of and never had a problem. Is there something I am missing on the air cleaner as mentioned above? Thanks soundguy.

 

[Soundguy]

on gennies.. idleing doesn't produce a usefull charge level.. must be idled up. on an alt.. heck.. 400 rpm turns thm on and they are probably charging near as good as a genny near full tilt.

I like the look of a genny.. I also like the fact they are robust. you hook them up wrong and they don't fry in 400 nano seconds like an alt will.

that said.

are you SURE you have a 12v genny.. or did some idiot just leave the oem 6v genny on there , hooked up and toss in a 12v battery.. seen that..

 

[MickeyC]

I am not sure on the gen.... 6v or 12v? I have yet to get my meter on anything yet. You are right, could be wrong battery. I will try to get to the masking tape trick and do a couple quick meter readings after diner tonight. Thanks soundguy. I will let you know...

 

[Soundguy]

the stock 12v gennies had cooling vents at the rear.. that may have covers over them. though a 6v gen with no vents could be rebuilt as 12 by gut swapping..

 

[MickeyC]

Ok, Mr soundguy... The masking tape on the distributor shaft worked. Although I did notice a couple things after I did it. 1. I must have changed something with the combustion cause it with blow a little smoke while throttling up quickly. Never got that outta it before doing the same. 2. It still seemed to bounce off the govenor at the top half of the throttle. But seemed to even out as I ran it longer. I think I need to go through the manual and do the check on the govenor/throttle linkage adjustment check. I did have to replace a missing compensating spring under the battery box and tighten the spider spring on top of the bell housing to keep from the throttle from running back down by itself...? I did do a little metering... Here is what I got... 12.03v battery terminals engine off. 12.00v coil engine off ign switch on. 11.54v battery terminals engine running. 8.9v outside small post of gen engine running. 9.0v big post of gen engine running. The generator has no vents or covers or anything....? It doesn't seem to be producing enough recharge the battery. I pulled the battery and put it on my trickle charger, but I gotta figure out something to give it a better charge. Thanks for any help you can send my way.