A little bit more technical advice please

[Soundguy]

smoke on throttle up is likely valve guides.

at least you know the top end is oiling.

gen sounds like a 6v...

DO check gov for adjustment. wrong spring tension will cause hunt and bounce.

 

[MickeyC]

Thanks Soundman. I went to the dealer today to get some parts for my finish mower and got a Ford/NH genuine parts rotor for the distributor, so I will try it and see what I come up with. Still ran great today with your masking tape trick. Yeah I have a feeling the govenor linkage needs to be adjusted. Like I said when I got it, it was missing a spring and the throttle wouldn't hold pass half throttle without holding it by hand. The battery trickle charged for about 32 hours and when put back in today, she fired right up and re-fired a couple more times after that... Thanks soundguy. I will get to that linkage and let you know.

 

[Soundguy]

if you didn't get the 6$ oem clip.. that oem rotor likely won't fit any better than a tisco one. unless you leave the masking tape on.. then it will likely work fine.

 

[MickeyC]

Soundguy, the rotor I bought doesn't seem to have any place/spot that I can see or saw on the IPL at the dealership where a clip would go...? Maybe you can tell what/where I am overlooking. This rotor is just black plastic push on type from what it looks like...

 

[Guesseral]

The clip is basically a steel spacer that slides over the top of the distributor shaft to take up the slop, they all need this clip it is just the way they are built.

 

[MickeyC]

Thanks Guesseral, that's makes sense... I will have to see if I can the find that clip/space on an IPL.

 

[kf4uda]

Here is a link to a diagram of the distributor. The clip is item #38:

Official New Holland Online Parts Store and Online Parts Catalog for New Holland and Ford Tractors.

Here is a link to purchase one or at least see a better picture:

Ford Electrical System 8N12213 Rotor Clip

Good luck

 

[MickeyC]

Thanks kf4uda, I was able to view the second link of the part, but not the NH IPL link for some reason. I have tried that part look up before and had no luck either. I get the point from the pic on that second link, and I know for sure I do not have that clip on the distributor drive shaft. Appreciate the links and help, thanks.

 

[kf4uda]

Not sure why the link is not working for you but here is a screenshot of it.

 

[MickeyC]

Thanks Chris, that's the ticket. Looking at that diagram.... I need to go out and check, but I think I am missing a couple other things too. The gasket for sure. I appreciate the diagram.

 

[Guesseral]

The gasket usually comes with the dust cap. If you look on ebay you can get all of these items, and many more they are made in china, turkey or what not but the ones from the dealer probably are to. The only thing I really would advise getting from the dealer would be the points. I have got some bad sets of points even from TSC. I really have no idea where the ones from the dealer are made but I would think they would be better or at least they should be.
I like to shop for my (old ford) parts on ebay because my dealer is so far away and if I buy all of my items from the same store and combine shipping they come direct to my door. I guess I am lazy or is it because I get more beer drinking time that way!:thumbsup:

 

[Soundguy]

'even' from tsc?

really?

it's well know TSC points are about the junkies crappiest you can buy. they are horrid tisco points.

soft plastic rubbing blocks. pooly formed stampings with holes in the wrong spot. there is seemingly no hard coating on the breaker surface..a dn they corode if you stare at them for 2 minutes.. or, if not stareing.. they corode on their own as soon as you look away... theor springs and insulation grommet at the pivots are junk and most of the time the breakers don't strike square. for a 4$ set of points.. they cost about 3.75$ too much.

best bet are standard ignition / blue strak / BW

premium pierced / ventilated echlin are nice as well.

expect to pay up to 18$ for a premium set that can last a decade or more if cleaned with paper..e tc. I havn't repalced a set of quality points in years. i clean a few now and then.. and I changes any tisco that come to me asap.

did i mention tisco points are worse that anything 'lucas prince of darkness' ever dreamed up ?

The gasket usually comes with the dust cap. If you look on ebay you can get all of these items, and many more they are made in china, turkey or what not but the ones from the dealer probably are to. The only thing I really would advise getting from the dealer would be the points. I have got some bad sets of points even from TSC. I really have no idea where the ones from the dealer are made but I would think they would be better or at least they should be.
I like to shop for my (old ford) parts on ebay because my dealer is so far away and if I buy all of my items from the same store and combine shipping they come direct to my door. I guess I am lazy or is it because I get more beer drinking time that way!:thumbsup:

 

[MickeyC]

I have the dust cap guesseral, just no gasket under it. I recently got the tractor the way it is and I am slowly going through the all the routine maintenance and any other issues that come up with the help from the fellow members on here, and what's covered in my manual. Soundguy thanks for the info on the points. I know I asked you about the gen. Just for advance info and bouncing thoughts around in my head... what does the gen/alt swap involve?

 

[Soundguy]

the swap involves buying or making the correct brackets. minor change to the wire harness, buying the alt.. and perhaps a belt and pulley change, plus addition of a diode, resistor or lamp into the wire harness, maybee, depending on setup... if going from 6 to 12v.. then you need a new battery.. need to remove the old vreg. need a new coil and lamps...

if you have a working genny.. I'd keep it.

 

[MickeyC]

Hey soundman, I caught one of your threads on another site while looking for info and just wanted to check a couple part numbers with ya.

Points # cd8081x

Condensor # fd75x

Dis. Cap # fd128

Rotor # fd108

These are all good numbers for the standard igniton parts...? Need to take a second look, but I may need a breaker plate too. Do you have a p/n for one of those by chance? Thanks soundguy.

 

[Soundguy]

front and sidemount ignition info:

no need for a breaker palte # it's either a front or side mount. impossible to swap the 2.. so just order by type. YTMAG has them.. ps your #'s apepar to be for sidemount..e tc..


Ford 9-2-8n Front mount distribuitor ignition service:

gap points to .015

Front Mount distributor...
Points:
NAPA #CS35
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-6769X (Premium)
Condensor:
NAPA #FA200
Standard Ignition #FD-71
Rotor:
NAPA #FA300
Standard Ignition #FD-104
Distributor Cap:
NAPA #FA350
Standard Ignition #FD-126

Side-Mount Distributor: 8n thru 4 cyl thousand series

gap points to .025

Points:
NAPA #CS749
NAPA HEAVY DUTY PIERCED (ventilated) #CS753
Standard Ignition #FD-8081
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-8081X (Premium)
Condensor:
NAPA #FA66
Standard Ignition #FD-75
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD75X (Premium)
Rotor:
NAPA #FA67
Standard Ignition #FD-108
Distributor Cap:
NAPA #FA352
Standard Ignition #FD-128

side mount points hold down screws #8-32 X 3/16
FORD AUTOMOBILE dealer parts counter. come with built-in lockwasher. p/n 355047-S7 (#8-32 X 0.19)

 

[MickeyC]

I need a little help here... I have been trying to figure the electrical and wiring on this 4000. Here is what I know. It has a 12v battery. The neg is to ground. It has a generator. With ignition switch turned on coil meters almost 12v. Voltage regulator on the steering column has 6v stamped on it. As I read the schematics in the back of the I&T manual, wires & colors seem to follow both diagrams...? The 12v diagram seems to be closer, but the 6v diagram shows the coil and distributor that follow also. Is there any identifying facts features? Or do I have some kind of mix up 6v system with a 12v battery like soundguy mentioned. If so what is the best way to get this figured out? Thanks for any help.

 

[Soundguy]

sound slike a 6v reg.. 6v gen.. and a 12v battery.

that's the common 'moron' conversion to 12v that someone stuck you with.

 

[Guesseral]

sound slike a 6v reg.. 6v gen.. and a 12v battery.

that's the common 'moron' conversion to 12v that someone stuck you with.

Hay be nice now! That's how Dad did it for years when we were farming! Of course I really don't think he had the money to do it any other way!

 

[Soundguy]

it's one thing when you ( your family that's using the tractor ) does it.

it's another when you sell it to someone jiggered up like that.. and then leave them in the dark about it.