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steveessie
Member
It would be nearly impossible to do it on both sides unless you took off the side metal walls, correct?
How to fix this?
- Thread starter steveessie
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It would be nearly impossible to do it on both sides unless you took off the side metal walls, correct?
/pine
Super Star Member
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Are the new posts fastened to the bottom cord?...just curious...but engineered trusses are not meant to have additional (beyond the design) bearing points...
SPIKER
Elite Member
I'm in the camp of using 3/4 solid core plywood (not OSB) and GOOD Construction Adhesive such as PL400 and a but load of screws.
Cut a hunk of plywood higher than the truss bottom cord and higher up onto the vertical joint where it broke out (big triangle)
Glue the joint that is split/cracked put bottle jack under the low point of the truss.
jack up slowly to compress the joint into the glue.
apply good amount of glue to the clean truss and slap on the 3/4" and screw it down with a bunch of #10+ size screws.
Mark
Cut a hunk of plywood higher than the truss bottom cord and higher up onto the vertical joint where it broke out (big triangle)
Glue the joint that is split/cracked put bottle jack under the low point of the truss.
jack up slowly to compress the joint into the glue.
apply good amount of glue to the clean truss and slap on the 3/4" and screw it down with a bunch of #10+ size screws.
Mark
/pine
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Not to step on any toes...but nails should be the preferred fastener IMO...when the most force is shear...screws work best under tension their shear strength can't compare to nails
easiest with a nailer but even a $25.00 palm nailer would limit the labor and is actually easier than using screws and a cordless...again...IMO...
easiest with a nailer but even a $25.00 palm nailer would limit the labor and is actually easier than using screws and a cordless...again...IMO...
Jaylegger
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Remove the existing gusset plate and put a longer one that reaches the bottom of the beam in it's place.
jhasafety1
Bronze Member
I agree with the plywood and adhesive, don't over think or over engineer the problem.
SPIKER
Elite Member
Pine the SCREWS are there to pull the GLUE JOINTS and Plywood together & hold it till the glue drys.
Once dried you could probably remove the screws with little ill effects as the glue will pull the plywood & truss apart prior to giving up it's bond.
The Screws are not best in sheer as they are harder than nails is true however.
Around here codes have grown so that Lag Bolts or THRU bolts are used on ALL of the top/rim joists to the poles. No longer just Nails on them.
Mark
/pine
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You are right about the glue (if of good quality like you mentioned...)...
however even drilling a single 1/2" hole (let alone a series of them) in an engineered truss member can void the liability of the truss manufacturer/engineer...many girder etc. trusses are designed to have either extra members and or flitch plate bolted to the bottom cord and always come with drilling instructions as per the engineer's design...
LuPai
New member
If you know which plant the trusses came from you can take pictures with dimensions to them. They can send it in for a repair. They may charge you but we do them for free usually. It should be painless just do it exactly as they say. It will not be sheetrock screws and plywood. Most likely a scab with a specific nail pattern. Just make sure you use the pattern and the nails they spec.
smiley
Platinum Member
Doesn't look like a problem to me. It's on the end wall where even the siding would carry some of it's load, so the simple fix would be to sister on a 2X and if you're still worried about it, just run another 2X under it down to the girts. That would carry way more load than the original truss.
