Pole Barns Basics - what to do, what to avoid

   / Pole Barns Basics - what to do, what to avoid
  • Thread Starter
#11  
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The concrete pour looks good. I hope the rebar placement was good, there's a vapor barrier, that it is not on loose fill, etc. The seller would not supply the name of the concrete company.

The stairs were in the back of the garage on the plan submitted to the town, but were installed towards the middle of the garage. Those two 2x4s are the only verticals not part of the outside framing.

Handrails don't extend to the top of the steps and there is no structure/barrier around the opening in the loft's floor. Don't know how a CO was issued with a 3'x10' hole in the floor of the loft. But the concrete pour, loft floor and steps were probably installed AFTER the inspector left. He "believed" the concrete hadn't been there when he inspected. The inspection was in late 2022. The electrical signoff sticker was dated November 2022.

The toothed "mending plates" hold the ends of the loft's floor joists (?) together. They are the only things connecting the long boards together across the 30 ft. width. And they are all (with a few exceptions) in a straight line from front to back. They aren't in the middle, they are offset by 1 or 2 feet. I was wondering if the two different board lengths were supposed to alternate each time, so the "mending plates" are offset from the adjoining ones and there wouldn't be one long straight weak point for the full depth of the building (40 ft.)?
 
   / Pole Barns Basics - what to do, what to avoid #12  
That's scary

You need to get a support under that floor where the joists meet.
 
   / Pole Barns Basics - what to do, what to avoid
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Well.... I think we see what you mean. That photo kinda says it all.
Is that pex or power draped over the drywall screw?

Structually, many MEs consider that three fully engaged threads will develop the full strength of a nut.... the rest are for backup. However, those are ridiculous. Surely those joints were not inspected.

BTW, with the GRKs It makes no sense to put multiple structural screws on the same vertical line. Might want to offset them laterally.

rScotty
That line draped over the drywall screw was the 50 ft. extension cord that fed power to the HbrFrt chained LED shop lights. The extension cord plugged into the one wall outlet. Lights were turned on by plugging it in. No switches. Other than the garage opener lights, those gave the only lighting. The extension and the LED shop lights were removed the day before we closed on the house.

GRK structural screws - I agree with the idea of installing them laterally, to fully tie the post and boards together!

The locksmith (former master carpenter) pointed out that when two boards met over a post, their ends butted up AT the post. Putting carriage bolts right where the board ends touch is NOT a good joining method. So there might be holding power issues with those bolts because the nuts are not fully engaged, but also because some of them are at the board ends.
 
   / Pole Barns Basics - what to do, what to avoid
  • Thread Starter
#14  
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The small rear door for the riding mower. Yes, that was hand-crafted. Yes, those are straight daylight views at the top and bottom, no overhangs, not drip edges, no gaskets or seals. You are correct - it is not water-tight.
 
   / Pole Barns Basics - what to do, what to avoid
  • Thread Starter
#15  
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The loft. Images captured from a video. Second photo shows the top of the stairs (behind the video control icons).
 
   / Pole Barns Basics - what to do, what to avoid
  • Thread Starter
#16  
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Photo from back corner of garage towards the front, showing one year (or less) of erosion on one side of the garage. This is the downhill side, the right side back in post #7. Seller had piled old 2x6 boards there, to try to reduce erosion from roof runoff. He took those boards with him, just before the closing.

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Photo from back corner of garage, across the back wall's width. The concrete pier shown is the same one that is at the extreme right side of prior photo in this post.
The ground slope is steeper to the right of this photo. Around 70 ft. away is a very steep gradient.

My amateur idea for the sides is to dig sloped trenches in the roof drip zone, install sleeved drain pipes and then backfill with gravel.

For the structure's back wall, because of the strong slope, I think a retaining wall could be built 5 ft. to 8 ft. from wall, with drain pipes and gravel again. All drains would be extended a few feet beyond the right side of the second picture, towards the steep slope and the creek at the bottom.

But there is no clear path around the barn toward the back yard seen in the background. Maybe a second, lower, retaining wall is needed to cover the drainage pipes and to provide a level surface for small equipment (Kubota BX size) to access the back yard. The well is in the front yard, so back yard access would be for septic, tile field, etc. That second retaining wall isn't vital now, but there's a fenced area between the house and barn preventing passage. The far end of the house does not have much room between multiple tree trunks and the air conditioner unit. There are also natural gas pipes and sprinkler water lines on that far side.


I know I give too much info. A habit I picked up over many years of dealing with specs on building and modifying computer systems. I would tell team members "Give them what they need, not just what they ask for." And then I would have to explain to the dismayed users (who wrote the initial specs) that I meant the final product should be better than their initial request's wording. Talking through their business requirements and then asking "what if" questions would give them what they really required.

After 38 years in computers, I can say that only ONE system user every handed over PERFECT specifications for EXACTLY what he NEEDED. Every variable, every combination of variables, every condition and contingency - all thought out before we first met to discuss his project. He told me everything that was needed, from memory. I wrote it all down as he dictated complex rules as if he was calling out a grocery list.

That guy was in charge of all service departments and all service personnel training for a national car manufacturer. He might not have been the Dos Equis "most interesting guy in the world", but he was damned talented.
- He knew the names of each of the hundreds of mechanics working in the service areas of all the dealerships.
- He successfully raced motocross bikes, as in winning trophies.
- He could talk, in detail, about any aspect of the engines and transmissions used in their cars.
- He played classical 12-string guitar. Talented enough that people at the corporate HQ looked forward to his concert at the annual holiday part.
- His Christmas cards were incredible pencil LINE drawings of detailed holiday scenes. Artwork, actually.

I'd tell new users of that guy's talents, and that he had thought of EVERY aspect of the programming he needed. I'd say "Let me hear your list of talents. Match or beat his expertise and I'll think we don't need to discuss your specifications."

// Sorry, just an old guy trying to take his mind off of worries about the new barn!! //
 
   / Pole Barns Basics - what to do, what to avoid #17  
Drain tiles and lots of backfill and I think you will be OK on the erosion. The bracing your loft has to the rafters gives you some capability. It may be ok for light storage, especially if you keep the load away from the center. The plates on the joists look pretty worthless for floor loading. It wouldn't be cheap, but I would consider doubling the joists with one to span the joints.

You could try to rebuild those doors into something that would have a jamb, but I think I would just scrap them and see if I could rework it for a small overhead door.
 
   / Pole Barns Basics - what to do, what to avoid #18  
Would spouting on the roof and pipe the runoff into the trees solve the erosian problem for the same or less cost than drains?

Inside, since the joins are almost on centre, I would just bite the bullet and put in a row of support at the gangnail joiners to stop the mezzinine floor from sagging. In my area you could not get compliance with a line of unsupported joins like that. Also check there are no time bombs with the stairs as you say they don't match the plans.
Good Luck.
 
   / Pole Barns Basics - what to do, what to avoid #19  
could be better, but i've seen worse. How are the poles anchored to the Piers? I think you could put fill and seed around the building and be ok. Or gravel. I put stone 3 ft out from my pole barn, no gutters. I've had no erosion.
 
   / Pole Barns Basics - what to do, what to avoid
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Drain tiles and lots of backfill and I think you will be OK on the erosion. The bracing your loft has to the rafters gives you some capability. It may be ok for light storage, especially if you keep the load away from the center. The plates on the joists look pretty worthless for floor loading. It wouldn't be cheap, but I would consider doubling the joists with one to span the joints.

You could try to rebuild those doors into something that would have a jamb, but I think I would just scrap them and see if I could rework it for a small overhead door.
I did a close-up shot of that small lawn mower door, so there was no perspective. It is only about 5 feet high. If you meant an overhead roller door, like security doors on urban stores, maybe . . . I was wondering if the classis sideways sliding barn doors would seal tight enough to keep the chipmunks out.
 
 
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