Hauling tractor with a car trailer?

[wkpoor]

My thinking is a Hyd. tilt bed and you could use ramps when if needed for mutiples.

Thats sounds good for a tilt. Hydraulic tilt will give way more flexibility and with ramps you will be covering another base.

 

[LBrown59]

Hasn't been an issue for me at all. Thats the big scare everyone has. My drop deck actually gave me fits a couple of times loading cars with long wheel bases. My low slung Cobalt drives right on. Overall I find a deckover has more plus's than minus's. Once you make the transition to the ramps basically your on. Palleted item are no longer a fuss. And the load up higher hasn't been an issue at all.

What do you think about the idea of putting 13 inch wheels on a deck over instead of 15 or 16 inch wheels in order to get it to set lower to the ground?

Thats sounds good for a tilt. Hydraulic tilt will give way more flexibility and with ramps you will be covering another base.

Sounds good to me but there is still the matter of the hight .

 

[Diamondpilot]

13" wheels would require 5 axles to carry any weight.

Chris

 

[LBrown59]

13" wheels would require 5 axles to carry any weight.

Chris

Why would 13'' wheels make that much difference?

 

[wkpoor]

Load capacity goes up with tire size. Keeping things monetarily reasonable 15" will give load "D" and 16" Load "E". There is a 14.5" lowboy size for load G or H but cost goes up. Also 16" rims have a higher load tire available also. I don't know of any 13" wheels and tires rated for what you want to do. My FIL has just what you are thinking about only his are 12" rims or maybe smaller like 8". However his capacity on a tandem is about 2K max. Really limits the versatility. I would build or buy a trailer keeping with standards so down the road things are easy. Last summer a friend and another buddy went after an old farm tractor out of state. Got a flat on the way back. Needed a rim and tire. Had a heck of a time finding them because it turned out his rims and bolt pattern were not common. From now on I will only have 16" 8 bolt as they are easy to come by. 5 lug can have any one 5 different patterns.

 

[Diamondpilot]

13" rims and tires have about a 1,250# load limit. They can also only fit 7" or 8" brake assemblys in them. While just going up to a 14" tire allows for a 1,750# load limit and a 10" brake assembly.

Not enough capability on the tires and wheels to use 13" for a car hauling trailer.

Chris

 

[singleken45]

I have borrowed a few times friends car haulers . Once when I hauled a badly deteriated 8n Funk conversion out of a brushy place to my shop/garage . A problem I had was that the tractor was so badly gone , it was hard to tie all ares down tite due to it falling apart . I think that a solid flatbed trailer would've made that haul somewhat easier . Then a couple other times I had to haul my 640 to a tractor dealer to have some excessive repairs done that I wasn't knowledged enough to do myself . Then I borrowed a different car hauler to bring the 640 back home . And lastly , I had to borrow the trailer again to return my 640 back to that shop because of some poor work . Then again to return it home . So , using a car hauler will work as long as it's heavily built (not one of those landscaping type) . I'm trying to decide myself which style I want to build for hauling my tractors & a vehicle if necessary . HTH ! God bless, Ken

 

[Soundguy]

Welcome ken.

, using a car hauler will work as long as it's heavily built (not one of those landscaping type) . I'm trying to decide myself which style I want to build for hauling my tractors & a vehicle if necessary . HTH ! God bless, Ken

yep.. no way I'd get a landscape trailer.. they are not as stiff.. usually have expanded metal floors and drop gates instead of ramps.. some have less underpinnings as well. usually don't cost THAT much different than a 16' car hauler anyway.

have a good'un

 

[Diamondpilot]

Welcome ken.

yep.. no way I'd get a landscape trailer.. they are not as stiff.. usually have expanded metal floors and drop gates instead of ramps.. some have less underpinnings as well. usually don't cost THAT much different than a 16' car hauler anyway.

have a good'un

This is true but not always the case. Mine is 18', full wood floor, 5' pull out rear ramps, 8 d-rings, brakes, and most important feature is a full wrap around 4" tongue. This is a feature most lack.

Chris

 

[Gary Fowler]

Man how do folks pull these 2 and 3 year old posts up. I sure hope the OP has finalized his deal on this. Be interesting to see if he still has the open deck trailer after 3 or more years which I suspect that he has upgraded to a solid deck IF he bought it.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Very old post but for what its worth, I use a car hauler to haul my tractors. I prefer the flat deck and no rails on the sides for hauling equipment. The rails do stiffen up the frame a bit but most landscape trailers use the rails for strengthening rather than make the sides and cross braces heavier. Just my 2cents worth on trailers. Oh, and the ramps are usually much flimsier than carhaulers and may bend under a tractors weight.

 

[schmism]

hey at least they search!

 

[Soundguy]

true!

 

[rimshot]

I use a car hauler for my tractor but the ramps really flex. My solution is a simple 2X6 stiff leg box I made up with the duplicate angle of the ramp placed right in the middle beneath the ramp. If you do this slide the stiff leg up until there is about a half inch space between ramp bottom and stiff leg. This allows ramp to flex just enough to avoid any tetering of ends of ramp with the load aboard.

rimshot

 

[Soundguy]

must have some real wimpy ramps for a car hauler if they flex on a tractor that will fit on a car hauler?

the ramps on my car hauler will hold more tractor than the trailer will

 

[rimshot]

must have some real wimpy ramps for a car hauler if they flex on a tractor that will fit on a car hauler?

the ramps on my car hauler will hold more tractor than the trailer will

=================

well, maybe so but you have to remember my tractor has a backhoe and with that attached the
CK20 with backhoe and front end loader weighs in at 4000 lbs. But you are probably thinking what makes that different than a car. The difference is the entire weight of the tractor is solely on the ramp as it has a much shorter wheel base then most cars that only usually accomodate one axle at a time unless maybe it gets compared with a YUGO. The trailer gross rating is 7000 lbs. and is adequate for the tractor.

 

[Soundguy]

I know you probably think I've never seen a tractor before. don't own one.. or have never laoded one.

but I in fact, do have a tractor.. have trailered them, etc.

I have a few different trailers, including a couple flatbeds.. one being a car hauler.

I have tractors weighting from about 900# up past 13k with no attachments.

I also own a unit similar to that ck 20 size, with a laoder and a backhoe.. and do haul it.

4k is a medium tractor and an average auto.. a large auto can hit a couple higher, easy.

imho.. the ramps should be quite a bit heavier rated than thir intended load.

if a ramp flexes excessively with it's rated load.. I'd scrap it and get a real ramp.

just sayin.

be safe.. happy neaw year.. etc.

=================

well, maybe so but you have to remember my tractor has a backhoe and with that attached the
CK20 with backhoe and front end loader weighs in at 4000 lbs. But you are probably thinking what makes that different than a car. The difference is the entire weight of the tractor is solely on the ramp as it has a much shorter wheel base then most cars that only usually accomodate one axle at a time unless maybe it gets compared with a YUGO. The trailer gross rating is 7000 lbs. and is adequate for the tractor.

 

[rimshot]

I agree and would not have kicked a bit if the ramps were a bit stronger. They are heavier than the dickens now and they have to slide in the side as opposed to sliding strait in the back which means I have to walk those darn things over to the side. Also they are a bit long because the trailer bed is all flat with no dove tail on the back to lower the grade.

 

[Trials]

:laughing: you guys just listed all the reasons I didn't buy the ramps with my utility/dump trailer.

 

[Soundguy]

I agree and would not have kicked a bit if the ramps were a bit stronger. They are heavier than the dickens now and they have to slide in the side as opposed to sliding strait in the back which means I have to walk those darn things over to the side. Also they are a bit long because the trailer bed is all flat with no dove tail on the back to lower the grade.

mine don't slide in eihter, and there is no dt onthe car hauler.. and I have to carry them to the side. but they have held 8k and not even deflected a bit. I hate loading on an unstable platform. at least in an auto you are somewhat safe.. in a tractor..it's scarry when the thing you are driving onto bows or moves..