mjncad
Super Member
Don't feel so bad about your project taking longer than expected. Some (most) of my projects move at a glacial pace if I'm lucky.
DIY Cab - Finally decided it was time
- Thread starter chim
- Start date
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chim
Elite Member
There are at least a few excuses for the schedule slipping. They range from Wifey wanting me around the house to keep tabs on a couple contractors to a death in the family. It isn't that I want to complain. My concern is that we'll have the only real snows fall before I get her home. I'm extremely thankful things went as well as they have. My original idea was to fab it right here at home. Wow, that would have been a wreck. Since any substantial amount of welding includes more bouncing sparks than would be safe in my cluttered garage (plus all the smoke) the welding would have to be done outside.
The guys at the shop have helped out during gaps in their work, and the available tooling has been a great help. Since there were no real plans, the slower pace allowed for thinking and research along the way. Since I'm a casual user and not a "Real Millwright & Cadd Guy" the best approach was to not frustrate myself with plans where the measurements were constantly wrong. Instead, there was a general concept that was followed a process of adding pieces here and there till it looked like the picture in my head.
The guys at the shop have helped out during gaps in their work, and the available tooling has been a great help. Since there were no real plans, the slower pace allowed for thinking and research along the way. Since I'm a casual user and not a "Real Millwright & Cadd Guy" the best approach was to not frustrate myself with plans where the measurements were constantly wrong. Instead, there was a general concept that was followed a process of adding pieces here and there till it looked like the picture in my head.
mjncad
Super Member
I've found that doing projects like your cab on the fly works out better in some cases than CAD'ing up plans since we don't have the manufacturer's computer models and drawings to easily base our CAD designs off of. If I'm building an implement or accessory that doesn't rely on lots of measurements off the tractor, then I usually CAD up a detailed set of plans. If it's something that's best designed as I go along, then I may do quick cartoon CAD studies for proof of concept.
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chim
Elite Member
Made some progress this week. The cab was disassembled into its main sections last week and primed. Monday it was finish painted. After agonizing over what color to paint which sections I went with all gray except for an orange top. Determining where to split the colors was getting to be a pain.
To keep the cab reasonably weather tight I found this neat "D" shaped self adhesive weatherstripping at Lowes. A single run of it to be squished between sections should do the trick.
Stayed after work and got all the glass glued in. The adhesive was a one-part butyl material from a car parts place and came in a regular caulk tube. I was fiddling around with some other stuff for a couple hours after doing the glass and the adhesive was only starting to develop a non-sticky skin after over two hours. I hope it cures fast enough to assemble the cab by Friday. Here are the pieces scattered around the shop. The glass is sandwiched safety glass with a slight tint (about like the factory side windows on my pickup). The angled brackets sticking up on the left side of the nearest section are for the forward-facing work lights.
To keep the cab reasonably weather tight I found this neat "D" shaped self adhesive weatherstripping at Lowes. A single run of it to be squished between sections should do the trick.
Stayed after work and got all the glass glued in. The adhesive was a one-part butyl material from a car parts place and came in a regular caulk tube. I was fiddling around with some other stuff for a couple hours after doing the glass and the adhesive was only starting to develop a non-sticky skin after over two hours. I hope it cures fast enough to assemble the cab by Friday. Here are the pieces scattered around the shop. The glass is sandwiched safety glass with a slight tint (about like the factory side windows on my pickup). The angled brackets sticking up on the left side of the nearest section are for the forward-facing work lights.
mjncad
Super Member
That's looking great. I can't wait to see what you do on the inside for creature comforts. If for some reason, the Lowe's weather stripping pukes on you, check out what McMaster-Carr has to offer. McMaster-Carr
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chim
Elite Member
Here's the weatherstripping I used in the picture above:
Shop Frost King 1/4" x 3/8" x 17' Grey, D-Section EPDM Rubber Weatherstrip Tape at Lowes.com
It's purpose is to perform as a gasket between bolted-together sections. I did get some really nice door gaskets from McM/C as you suggested earlier. It is really nice material. It has metal embedded in the rubber that grabs the flange and a hollow "D" profile that will really take care of any gaps.
Shop Frost King 1/4" x 3/8" x 17' Grey, D-Section EPDM Rubber Weatherstrip Tape at Lowes.com
It's purpose is to perform as a gasket between bolted-together sections. I did get some really nice door gaskets from McM/C as you suggested earlier. It is really nice material. It has metal embedded in the rubber that grabs the flange and a hollow "D" profile that will really take care of any gaps.
radioman
Super Member
I like how you did the curves on metal on doors for windows .. nice job. I couldnt do that .
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chim
Elite Member
Don't sell yourself short. I have some experience with metal but never attempted anything of this magnitude before.
Here are a couple pictures of the door weatherstripping from McMaster. It is very pliable and will take on whatever amount of compressing required to to seal the gaps at the doors.
mjncad
Super Member
Oops, I forgot I already suggested McMaster-Carr. That "D" shaped material you got from Lowe's looks preety good. The McMaster-Carr weatherstipping you got was exactly the style I was thinking about for your build.
mjncad
Super Member
Oops, I forgot I already suggested McMaster-Carr. That "D" shaped material you got from Lowe's looks pretty good. The McMaster-Carr weatherstipping you got was exactly the style I was thinking about for your build.
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chim
Elite Member
The McM/C weatherstripping looks like it was custom made for my cab. I'm really glad you mentioned them because even though we buy things from them at work, I wouldn't have thought to look there.
There's a 50% chance I'll get the cab back together on the Kubota today. It depends on how the window adhesive is setting up. I glued them in Wednesday afternoon and although the tube says the adhesive is popular due to its fast skinning and curing, it was still pretty gooey last night. It took a fair amount of force, but the glass could be wiggled slightly as late as yesterday afternoon. My plan is for a finish bead of black silicone on the outside. I assume the window adhesive needs air to cure and I'm hesitant to run the silicone and block that air route.
When I glued the glass in, it was with everything laying flat and it's still in that position. Excess adhesive was squeezed out the back (or inside) of each assembly and will need to be trimmed off and the glass scraped clean. Since there won't be any silicone applied on the inside, the adhesive will still be exposed to air on that side.
mjncad
Super Member
You're welcome on the McMaster-Carr suggestion, and they are my go to place for things I know I can't get readily elsewhere. I know they are pricey; but I just accept it as best as I can to get what I want.
How cold is the shop that your cab is in? Maybe the temperature is too low for normal curing times. I would think the adhesive should be plenty for water and air infiltration sealing. Any chance you may have gotten a bad batch of the stuff? Personally I hate silicone and only use it as a last resort because it's such a PITA
How cold is the shop that your cab is in? Maybe the temperature is too low for normal curing times. I would think the adhesive should be plenty for water and air infiltration sealing. Any chance you may have gotten a bad batch of the stuff? Personally I hate silicone and only use it as a last resort because it's such a PITA
smiley
Platinum Member
When I installed the velcro to hold the clear vinyl panels on my cab, I found out that most adhesives don't work below 40 degrees. After a lot of searching the net I found that Tite Bond Provantage - Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive -is supposed to be workable from 0 to 100 degrees. It was well below 40 when I used it and it adhered well, gave a little working time to position parts then set quickly and sure seems to be stuck permanently. It was a shelf item at our local Lowes.
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chim
Elite Member
Mjncad - The weatherstripping was around $60, but "perfect" has a price. I was looking over the different costs and was able to come up with right around $1,000 total. I believe there may be a couple hundred bucks of odds and ends that I bought cash and don't have receipts for. The build has been running around 6 weeks and SHOULD wrap up early this coming week. It's easy to lose track of the $10 or $20 spent out of pocket for fasteners, sandpaper, another can of this or that, hose clamps, etc. Slips for a cash purchase are not needed to verify charges on the credit card statement and tend to get tossed.
The shop is maintained in the 60's. One day when it was pretty chilly outside, I had to get down to a T-shirt to be comfy while working. The adhesive is curing, but slowly. It is a butyl goo that comes in a regular caulking tube and made for window installation. Bought it at NAPA. I'm going to cap the outside with silicone. The butyl formed a continuous bond and made a nice consistent black stripe on the inside of the glass where the glass and inside metal overlap. A little squeezed out around the glass, but not enough to make a finished-looking product on the outside. I hope silicone around the perimeter of the glass to provide a more finished look (and add another means of ensuring the glass will be held in place).
I did an application of silicone yesterday afternoon and am unhappy with the first window I did. After not being satisfied with the "finger method" of smoothing out the material, I found some heavy plastic that worked much better. Sometime this afternoon I'll head to the shop for a do-over on that one. It seemed like it would be easier to deal with if the silicone was cured and trimmed rather than slopping about in the schmootz*.
*Uncertain of spelling. Rhymes with books. Used in Lancaster County to refer to uncured silicone, roof mastic, Penetrox, anti-sieze and similar stuff
The shop is maintained in the 60's. One day when it was pretty chilly outside, I had to get down to a T-shirt to be comfy while working. The adhesive is curing, but slowly. It is a butyl goo that comes in a regular caulking tube and made for window installation. Bought it at NAPA. I'm going to cap the outside with silicone. The butyl formed a continuous bond and made a nice consistent black stripe on the inside of the glass where the glass and inside metal overlap. A little squeezed out around the glass, but not enough to make a finished-looking product on the outside. I hope silicone around the perimeter of the glass to provide a more finished look (and add another means of ensuring the glass will be held in place).
I did an application of silicone yesterday afternoon and am unhappy with the first window I did. After not being satisfied with the "finger method" of smoothing out the material, I found some heavy plastic that worked much better. Sometime this afternoon I'll head to the shop for a do-over on that one. It seemed like it would be easier to deal with if the silicone was cured and trimmed rather than slopping about in the schmootz*.
*Uncertain of spelling. Rhymes with books. Used in Lancaster County to refer to uncured silicone, roof mastic, Penetrox, anti-sieze and similar stuff
mjncad
Super Member
To me the $60 spent on weatherstripping is a reasonable amount, especially to get the job done right.
I hear you on the odds-n-ends causing petty cash amounts to disappear. :laughing:
Schmootz...neat word. Maybe it's the Amish version of spooge, which I hear has pornographic connotations. :laughing:
I hear you on the odds-n-ends causing petty cash amounts to disappear. :laughing:
Schmootz...neat word. Maybe it's the Amish version of spooge, which I hear has pornographic connotations. :laughing:
mjncad
Super Member
To me the $60 spent on weatherstripping is a reasonable amount, especially to get the job done right.
I hear you on the odds-n-ends causing petty cash amounts to disappear. :laughing:
Schmootz...neat word. Maybe it's the Amish version of spooge, which I hear has pornographic connotations. :laughing:
I hear you on the odds-n-ends causing petty cash amounts to disappear. :laughing:
Schmootz...neat word. Maybe it's the Amish version of spooge, which I hear has pornographic connotations. :laughing:
Chim, this has been a fascinating story! Like a few other posts, I don't add much, but have been following them for -- well, you know how long. Absolutely great job! I'm betting it will certainly turn out much better than "factory" or add-on manufactured cabs that I've seen.
I've thought about a cab for mine, but the idiot (me...:ashamed
that put the lean-to addition to my garage roof made it a bit shorter --well, a LOT shorter-- than it needed to be, so I'm not sure I'd ever be able to get a cab to fit under it... so I just wear the layers and brave the elements; the parking space is just too convenient not to use it.
Drooling over your cab, however! WBB in NH
I've thought about a cab for mine, but the idiot (me...:ashamed
that put the lean-to addition to my garage roof made it a bit shorter --well, a LOT shorter-- than it needed to be, so I'm not sure I'd ever be able to get a cab to fit under it... so I just wear the layers and brave the elements; the parking space is just too convenient not to use it.Drooling over your cab, however! WBB in NH
PILOON
Super Star Member
For silicone and other caulks a DIY trick that I read and tried is to use an ice cube to push/spread the caulking.
It works!
Sure better than wetting the finger tip.
It works!
Sure better than wetting the finger tip.
OP
chim
Elite Member
One of the guys in the weld shop suggested that and I used the idea. Inexperience with caulking resulted in me messing up the first window. The square tubing I used has radiused corners and I apparently wasn't careful about where I ran the tape. A few places where the I ran the tape over the edge of the radius the edge of the tape got behind the silicone. The other problem I had was Inconsistent Finger Syndrome. This was on the window I need to re-do today (got stuck painting family room all day yesterday). When I used my finger to smooth the caulk I used too much force and my finger became a squeegee. Too much silicone was removed from the joint. That's when I made a flexible putty knife from a piece of real heavy clear plastic I'll be using for seals on the cab.
Irvingj - The cab is being made so it allows for my height on the inside and yet fits in either a 12 x 24 prebuilt shed or my garage. Should be OK by a couple inches.
