Electric brake testing on old trailer
- Thread starter sailorman
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brain55
Veteran Member
Yes, I just crawled under trailer to look at back side. The axle is a bit strange though. Its kind of a drop axle ( my term ). Axle goes straight across, but on the end is an approx. 5 in. arm pointing upward. On the end of that is a plate that the backer bolts into. This makes the actual center of spindle, drum, and wheel/tire higher than the axle. Not looking forward to spending danger time under trailer unbolting even though I got safety jack stands in place and tongue hooked to tractor for no roll movement. I may have to soak bolts for a few days to break the rust.
Question: Can I remove the back plate and reinstall drum and wheel/tire without running into clearance problems with the thin layer of back plate missing.
brain55
Veteran Member
That should be no problem at all.
Brian
Brian
Diamondpilot
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Biggest issue I see is that the wheels you have are odd ball. I am thinking you are going to have to pick up some new 13" trailer wheels if you plan on finding modern brakes to work with it. Good news is they are about $30 each.
Chris
Chris
I 've been pondering that also. Seems like I would also have to get new drums with the correct number of lugs to match the wheels. If I have this right its gonna take new backer plate with all the guts, drums to match, and wheels. I 'm guessing the matching drums are sold separate from the backer plate. Add 7 pin plug for trailer and truck plus controller.
Now I know why people sometimes just buy the whole camper new :laughing: . But I got it for free and won 't end up with near the money in it as a new one :thumbsup:
CurlyDave
Elite Member
I bet the drums are still good, if you can find a set of brakes they would still fit.
Was rethinking the whole thing last night about tire rims and drums. If the drum depths and radius are right for the backer plate and shoes I don 't see why they wouldn 't work. Drums are expensive for my wallet and I could also save some bucks on 3 rims. Gotta do some more research.
Drum looked hardly used when I took it off except for a little light rust. Gotta do more research to figure out what to measure for proper fit. My knowledge is limited at this point and brain is slightly fried from the research I have done.
Check out the Dexter axle web site for current "standard" set-ups.
Most likely; diameter (say 10 or 11 inches ?) and shoe width (probably 2 inch ?, maybe 1 7/8, so measure to within an 1/8th) for the drums and shoes.
Then backing plate # of bolts (typically 4 on light axles, some are "adaptable" to 4 or 5 bolt hole axle flanges) hole diameter and spacing.
One thing that can be a PAIN is that the backing plate bolts are typically pressed into the plates and once you get to a 1/2 turn or so on the nut at the back the knurl of the stud head lets go of the plate.
Only way I know out of that is to grind off the head and punch it through, or blow it off with the cutting torch.
If you have tons of time on your hands hose the nuts and bolts off with penetrating oil every day for a week or two - THEN have at it (-:
Diamondpilot
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- Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work
These are all reasons I only run Disc Brakes on my trailer now. I till have drums on my 18' car hauler but the Disc are so much more effective and easy to work on just like with a car.
Chris
Chris