Flail Mower chain for top link, flail mower

[allen in texas]

In another thread I mentioned I was confused by those who say they use a chain for a top link when using their flail so the mower will float.

I don't get it.

If I used a chain for my top link, my mower will flop over on it's nose. My mower floats on the rear roller and moves up and down just fine over uneven terrain the three point hitch just moves up and down with the mower. I don't carry any weight on the three point.

Please explain to me what you guys are doing. Like I said, "I don't get it"

Here are pics
The first two are the mower lifted (obviously) and the third is to show it on the ground. The only thing that keeps it from flopping over on the PTO shaft is the top link.
I also realize from pic 3 that I need to raise my roller so I can keep the mower a bit more level. It is set where I used it to mow the grass you see in the background. I use the Hydralic top link to set my cutting height

 

[rjkobbeman]

I think the reason some use a chain is due to mis-matched implement with 3 point hitch. I have read where some implements just dont match up to some of the smaller tractors.

There was a thread going around where a guy bent his top link. I didnt understand how that could happen, until someone pointed me several pages back in the thread where it was pointed out that one of the brakets was upside down.

I agree, properly setup, the implement should raise up as a unit when going over terrain. Without a toplink (i.e., chain), the flail will just roll forward... the lower links will not raise.

 

[beenthere]

I suspect the chain is for a rotary cutter with a trailing wheel.

If for flail mower, post in that thread or link to it here (so your thoughts can be tied in with the apparent chain comments ).

Before the htl, I used a chain for better float on my rotary cutter. After the htlink, I put the chain on the rotary cutter. Works much better than the stiff steel straps (they will bend).

I don't see using a chain for a flail cutter either.

 

[allen in texas]

A quote
"If for flail mower, post in that thread or link to it here (so your thoughts can be tied in with the apparent chain comments )."

I started new thread so all would see it, not just those reading "that" thread.

There has been a lot of discussion on TBN about using a chain top links on flails and I have just kept them in my mind. I couldn't begin to link to all of them. One I read this AM finally put me over the top to ask the question.
Personally, I suspect that those who make those comments have never used a flail or seen one in action but I don't know that for a fact, thus this thread.


Perhaps my thread title should have read, "chain for top link, flail mower, who does it and why? Pics please"


(and somebody is going to have to 'splain to me how to quote only a portion of someones post)

 

[ninefinger]

Sorry about putting you over the top Allen. In my set up, I have an old Yanmar 2210BD with a QH and with the top link in , out and everywhere in between the flail will not let the front of the mower get low enough to get a good cut but with a chain the same length as the top link screwed together(shortest) the front of the flail floats as it should and cuts good. I may be hard on the pto shaft. I will need to check that. Sometimes the chain is tight and sometimes it has a belly. Will be happy to try and answer any other question you have.

 

[sodamo]

Thanks for the new thread Allen. As I was mowing today, I was pondering the same question. More I thought about it, the more I didn't understand how or why it would work. I use the manual, screw type top link with my flail. It appears I can adjust the cut somewhat by the length of the toplink. This is something I need to play with to understand better as the manual instructions haven't clicked in my tired brain. Maybe someone has a good pic?

My take on the chain was the mower would be leaning back, but have a tendency to flop forward. My ground is so uneven, I figured that could be an interesting look.

David

 

[beenthere]

......
(and somebody is going to have to 'splain to me how to quote only a portion of someones post)

allen
Just use the square brackets before and after what you want to quote, with the word quote in between those brackets. In the second ending set of brackets with quote, precede the word quote with a backwards slash / (some call it a forward slash).

That'll do it for you.

You can see the quote brackets by clicking on Quote and it will show those brackets.

Or, hit the Quote button, and delete any part of the quote that you don't want (like I did here).

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Or, hit the Quote button, and delete any part of the quote that you don't want (like I did here).

This is what I do also, easier than typing, for me anyway.

 

[allen in texas]

Re: chain for top link, flail mower who does it and why

allen
Just use the square brackets before and after what you want to quote, with the word quote in between those brackets. In the second ending set of brackets with quote, precede the word quote with a backwards slash / (some call it a forward slash).

cool!!! :cool2:

Learn sumthin' new ever day.
Like how to edit my thread title



UH OH! Didn't actually change the thread title.

 

[allen in texas]

more pics, different cut heights all set with the top link

#1 set to cut low, even scalping all the way to the dirt
#2 Set to cut high, about 5 inches
#3 The bar ditch on the edge of my property that I mow with this mower.

 

[pat32rf]

And here my first thought of a flail mower is always two pivoted pieces of steel flailing around horizontaly, like my homemade ofset bush-hog....

 

[Walter63]

I'm coming into this discussion little late, but thought maybe my experience might shed a little more light on the subject.

If you are using a flail mower on rolling terrain, it can be frustrating if you have a rigid top link. When the tractor crests a hill and heads downward, the flail is up in the air, and when you head down into a dip and then up again, the flail digs into the ground. The further the mower extends behind you, the worse the situation is. If you get good at it, you can minimize this effect by raising and lowering the 3 point hitch on the move, as the tractor pitches up and down. A floating top link helps, or replacing the top link with a chain. With this setup, the rear roller stays on the ground, and the front of the flail stays at the height preset by the lift arms. The tractor pitching changes the height of the front of the flail less, since it's closer to the tractor rear wheels.

As far as using a chain to replace the top link on a brush hog, the reason for doing it is the same as above. I've seen the posts warning of dangers, but this must only apply to a smaller unit. Many of the larger rotary cutters are available in a semi-mounted version, which means they attach only to the lift arms, not to the top link. That means you only need a tractor with enough HP to run the cutter, not a heavy enough tractor to pick it up. Running a rigid top link on a rotary cutter whose rear wheel(s) is nine feet behind the tractor only works on level ground, at least in my experience. On my larger three point rotary cutters, I pick them up for transport, but once I get where I'm going I disconnect the top link so they can ride the contour of the terrain. Then they become, in effect, a semi-mounted unit. I don't use a chain because if the chain length is long enough to allow the needed amount of variation, it's too long to pick up the unit itself.

I hope this information may be helpful.

 

[Dead Horse]

Walter, I think you have stated the case well. Your note on the flail trailing dynamics especially resonated with me.

As well, my MX10 is a semi mount and I also note that most smaller rotaries have a flexible top link connection that allows to rear of the mower to "float" quite a considerable amount, as long as the mower is properly connected to the tractor.

The only part of yout treatise that I am still noodling is the flail dynamics when the tractor turns up hill.......

However I think I understand what you are saying. In theory, since the lower links "float" the fixed upper link should function to control the "attitude" of the mower, IE actually force up the front of the flail while the roller remains on the ground. In your scenario, forcing the front of the mower up (standing taller on its roller) whild the mower is actually going down a hill, would rais the cutting height......... So I agree completely

I currently use a fixed top link, but the mower has several mounting points for it, one of which is slotted and thus allows for play of several inches. My observation is that it is still not enough "play" so I am going to convert to a chain top link this coming mowing season.

Thanks for putting the physics into mere mortal words!

 

[greg_g]

When the tractor crests a hill and heads downward, the flail is up in the air, and when you head down into a dip and then up again, the flail digs into the ground.

All that means is that your TPH is not adjusted to float adequately. Given enough float in the lower arms, what you describe shouldn't happen. And I'm not a flail mower guru, but I've never seen a (new) one that didn't have some kind of floating toplink bracket. On those used mowers where some previous owner bent/broke/lost them, they're easily obtainable as aftermarket replacements.

That said, a chain and a floating toplink bracket are mutually self-defeating.

//greg//

 

[SPYDERLK]

All that means is that your TPH is not adjusted to float adequately. Given enough float in the lower arms, what you describe shouldn't happen. And I'm not a flail mower guru, but I've never seen a (new) one that didn't have some kind of floating toplink bracket. On those used mowers where some previous owner bent/broke/lost them, they're easily obtainable as aftermarket replacements.

That said, a chain and a floating toplink bracket are mutually self-defeating.

//greg//

Since at least the front end of most 3pt implements are suspended from the lift arms in use the implement wont float downward to comply with terrain. A loose chain for a toplink helps by letting the tailwheel pivot up and down to comply with terrain. A floating toplink bracket is often best tho, as the tailwheel is allowed only a given amount of free motion. When it hits the limit of the bracket free motion going up it causes the lower lift arms to be driven upward as well. This can prevent the front of the implement from digging in badly.
larry

 

[RalphVa]

You could buy a couple of those big wheels that are used on trailer hitches. Attach them to the rear corners of your flail. I considered attaching a couple of them to the front edges of my bush hog but never have done it. You can buy a fairly heavy duty wheel and adjustable standard at TSC.

Our land here is very hilly and uneven. I run my bush hog with just a chain, or nothing, on the top link because the hog will follow the uneven terrain a lot better than my sliding top link will allow. The chain is only needed if you back into gulleys or off the side of creeks, etc.

If I run with the top link in place, the silly machine is banging around back there when I have it raised. It's a lot quieter when the bush hog is not running with no top link or just a chain.

Ralph

 

[blackie65]

I am new to tph and their versatility. Is there anyone that can post a pic of a floating top link or a chain top link.
what ya'll are saying makes sense but this silly brain just can't picture it.

 

[greg_g]

Since at least the front end of most 3pt implements are suspended from the lift arms in use the implement wont float downward to comply with terrain.

Yes. It will. Perhaps you don't understand the principle of "floating". The more you lengthen the distance between the upper and lower lift arms, the more the TPH will float. Short version; get your lower lift arms as close to the dirt as possible - low enough where you have to LIFT THEM UP to attach to the implement. This is done with the adjustable vertical links and/or moving them between/among the various pin holes on the lower lift arms. The more the implement is permitted to float, the less it gets picked up off the ground when cresting hills, and vice versa

Oh, and another thing you apparently don't realize Larry - is that there's no tail wheel on a flail mower.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

I am new to tph and their versatility. Is there anyone that can post a pic of a floating top link or a chain top link.
what ya'll are saying makes sense but this silly brain just can't picture it.

To the best of my knowledge, no responsible manufacturer produces a "chain toplink". They can't afford the liability insurance. Anything you've heard about them comes from folks who think they know better.

A floating toplink bracket is simply 1 or 2 extra pieces that pin to the top of certain implement A-frames (there are some implements that you do NOT want to float). The most common is the U-type (1 piece), followed by parallel straps (2 piece). In each case they're pinned to the implement A-frame. They pivot. The tractor's toplink then pins to them. The tractor-implement toplink configuration is now no longer 100% rigid, in that the floating bracket pivots between the toplink and the implement.

Here's a shot of one of mine. Depending upon the height relationship between the tractor and the implement, the bracket "floats" either above or inside the A-frame. In this case - when the front end of the tractor becomes lower than the back end - the toplink pivots the bracket forward, but does not extert any pull or lift on the implement unless/until full forward travel of the bracket is exceeded.

//greg//

 

[Heavyduty]

When the toplink is attached to the mower, the mower wheel will raise up when your rear tractor wheels crest a hill. This will cause the mower to slam down on the material your trying to cut. I learned this summer, while cutting weeds 5 foot tall, that my tractor engine didn't bog down as bad when I let the mower float with the ground. :thumbsup: