Wind down my chimney

[PTRich]

About six years ago we had trouble with a wood stove we put in. The chimney was almost 40 feet long but we could not get a good draft. The people that installed the chimney installed something called a vacume cap. Looked like a ball made with 6 inch metal ribon. (kind of like a home made bow?) Worked like a charm. I wish I could recall the name but it sounds like this would work for you.

Good Luck PTRich

 

[jyoutz]

The product is called a vacu-stack and they run about $125. But they are absolutely worth it. You will get the best draft ever, and when the wind blows, the downdraft is reversed by the vacu-stack into an updraft. You will be very happy with this fix and its so very easy to do.

 

[Mrwurm]

Ok, I got up on the roof this morning. It's bitter cold here in Michigan with blowing snow. (I threw that in for sympathy) The chimney pipe sticks out of the roof 2 feet and the cap is 2 feet from the closest point on the roof angle. Definately fails all the 10/2 and 10/3 rules. The chimney has a stamp on it. It says 'type B galvanized vent, 1 inch clearance to combustables'. I looked through the vents in the cap and it does'nt seem to be a double-walled type. I also can't see how I would get the cap off. I does'nt seem to be one piece with the pipe, but there are no screws or rivets either. Is it just pressed on? It seems easy enough to add to the length if I can get the cap off. Oh yeah, the pipe is 21.5 in circumference. Looks like about a 6 inch diameter. Hard to get a good look at it, it's like a blizzard up there.

One other sad note: I used my tractor to steady the other end of the ladder. When I went to start my tractor I found a fresh pile of 'CRAP' on the seat. My wife has six cats that live in the garage. I have no proof, but........

 

[JJT]

1" clearance to combustables - the pipe must be insulated/double walled. My first cap was a press in/twist lock, when that blew away I went to a press in, twist lock, strapped down and screwed delux wind cap, (yes, I live on a hill with lots of wind....). Try to remove yours by twisting and pulling up, the twist lock on mine has less than 2 inches of interlock. Don't spend any time up on the roof screwing with it if the furnace is running, you'll end up oxygen deprived....

Re. the cat's new litter box - sounds like you have at least 1 too many cats.

 

[Mrwurm]

Ok, I got the cap off and added a section of pipe. I had a choice of 18 inch or 36 inch. I added a piece of the 18 inch. It was a pretty easy job aside from climbing on the roof in the snow and ice. I'll see how this works. If I have to I will put on a longer piece but I will probably need to brace it. Thanks for all the help.

 

[Egon]

Hope it works for you .

Egon

 

[RickM]

I'm glad you were able to extend the vent pipe. If your roof is in fact a 12/12 pitch you may need to go higher. Here is a link to a manufacturer of class-b vent pipe. Look down at the bottom of page 5 at Table 1. It gives the recommendations of the AGA on chimney height vs. roofline. <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.hartandcooley.com/vent_products/b_vent/bvent_instructons.pdf>http://www.hartandcooley.com/vent_products/b_vent/bvent_instructons.pdf</A> Another urgent concern is the fact when it is not venting correctly carbon monoxide can build up. You mentioned that your furnace is common vented with the water heater. If they are both running and not venting properly it could take very little time to fill the house with deadly CO. CO monitors are relatively cheap these days. I would put one in my house until I was satisfied the venting problem is fixed. Be careful on that roof /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif.

 

[Mrwurm]

Rick, I have a CO detector in the basement and I'm puzzled that it has never registered any amount of CO. It is a Night Hawk with digital readout. The reason that I say I'm puzzled is because when the furnace was running yesterday, warm air was blowing OUT of the hot water vent pipe. The hot water tank was OFF and the tank was cold. There was no source of rising heat that would have tricked me into thinking that warm air was coming down the vent. The force of incoming air was overpowering the furnace exhaust gases and they were coming back down the vent! ! My house is a cape cod style with a very steep pitch. It may even be steeper than 12/12. To work on the roof I use a 30 ft ladder. I lay it on the roof and it just reaches the chimney area. I then back the tractor onto the bottom end of the ladder to prevent it from shifting out on me. There is no way to walk or even sit on this roof.

 

[RickM]

Jerry, I'm curious why your alarm hasn't ever gone off too. Here is a link that explains proper CO monitor placement. <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.homesafe.com/coalert/detect.htm>http://www.homesafe.com/coalert/detect.htm</A> You said your CO monitor is in the basement and I assume that is where the furnace and HWT are located. CO will rise and accumulate at the ceiling of upper living areas. Bedrooms on the top floor are advised placement areas. Hope this helps.

 

[Mrwurm]

Ok, I know it's about a week late but I thought I would try my hand at attaching a picture. I've never done this before.

Anyway, if it works then you will see a picture of my roof. The chimney that serves my furnace and hot water tank is the second protrusion from the left. The chimney at the top of the house is from the gas fireplace. I have since added 18 inches to the problem chimney.

Here goes !