Which grapple?

[IslandTractor]

Good to hear, thanks!

Another question regarding tines. I like the long bottom style rather than the clamb-shell style. Most of the long bottom grapples have a tube going across the front, maybe 8-10 inches back from the tine tips. (like Xfaxman's wide grapple) Another type, has thicker tines with gussets, that don't have that front brace (like Xfaxman's narrower grapple). I can see where the front brace would make it hard to penetrate brush or hay. Has anyone had any experience / problems with this?

I saw another post where they describe rolling the grapple over and grabbing from on top, so maybe it's not that big of a deal.

No, I don’t find that the support/spacer tube interferes at all with collecting brush. Brush doesn’t bother a big hunk of steel pushed by a diesel. Loose brush is just pushed along and brush with roots will just be uprooted so you can clamp it. What the tube does do is limit the depth that the tines will easily penetrate soil. That can be a benefit as it isn’t often that you’re going to want to push the grapple forward and dig more than 6-8 inches deep. The tube doesn’t interfere with more focused digging as when digging up a stump.

 

[ArmyDoc]

It depends on you will be using it for.

For me it is the bigger opening.

I've been looking at the loflin monster grapples some more. They offer from 72 in all the way up to 96 inches. What width would you recommend on a v519? Is it better to have one that spans the width of the machine (96in) or is it better to have one that will fit into narrower places? Or does it matter?

 

[oosik]

When I choose the type/style of grapple I wanted - I looked at what I was going to be doing with it. In my case, picking and moving fairly large diameter to the largest diameter chunks of Ponderosa pine logs. The biggest pine logs on my property are 38" in diameter. So there, one parameter is set.

Next - large rocks - the biggest rocks I would be moving have a max diameter of 48". So there, the final parameter.

Both of these "grapple jobs" would require tough, thick and short bottom teeth on the grapple. So I chose a rock & root style grapple.

Width of my grapple was only important in that I wanted a grapple narrower than the width of the front and rear tires. Front tires are 68" - - rear tires are 80" grapple is 63.5" wide. Therefore - if the load is contained within the outer confines of the grapple it will fit thru any of my gates on my property line fence. Otherwise, such a 10 foot chunks of pine logs - I'd better be prepared to lift the load OVER the property line gate.

Finally - I wanted a VERY TOUGH grapple. I chose the Land Pride SGC 1560. I choose to carry the extra weight in steel thickness on the grapple and loose that weight in total lifting capacity to the goal of overall grapple toughness. I just HATE wimpy tools/implements just about as much as having to spend the money to replace them when they break.

Anyhow - that is the routine I generally went thru choosing my current grapple. A note - my grapple will very seldom be involved in any job involving brush. My property has bunch grass/field grass rather than much brush.

BTW - I also looked at the ANBO grapple. They are located about 72 miles north of me in Colville, WA.

Also note - in my previous post - #58 - I stated my grapple is 50" wide. INCORRECT - the operating width of my grapple is 60" - - OA width is 63.5".

 

[oosik]

View attachment 532735 This is the Land Pride grapple on my Kubota. Notice how I have the grill guard modified with expanded metal. This was done because of the hoar stories here on TBN about damage done to units without some form of added protection.

 

[cphilip]

That root grapple closes much tighter than most of the root grapples I have seen. Which makes it more useful if one were to need to do brush with it. I like the design. Do not like the 820 pounds though.

 

[oosik]

I understand what you are saying there - cphilip. In my case the heaviest thing I will be involved with is a green, large diameter Ponderosa pine log. I have developed a "log weight chart" for five and ten foot pine logs of varying diameters. Info obtained from - forestryforum.com.

BTW - the ONLY trees on my property are Ponderosa pine.

I did pick up a VERY large diameter pine log last summer. There was not sufficient space under that load for even a small garter snake. I firmly believe in the saying - "how low can you go".

All joking aside - you are correct. An 820 pound grapple simply is not an implement for a small utility tractor.

I chose my grapple because of the reasons I listed above( post # 63) and because on my tractor, that grapple has plenty of capacity to do anything I need done.

 

[cphilip]

Its certainly a good choice for a larger capacity tractor. No doubt.

 

[Xfaxman]

I've been looking at the loflin monster grapples some more. They offer from 72 in all the way up to 96 inches. What width would you recommend on a v519? Is it better to have one that spans the width of the machine (96in) or is it better to have one that will fit into narrower places? Or does it matter?

For me the width has never been an issue. I don't use it for pulling vines, bramble or brush.

It is 72 inches wide and covers the tracks of the V417:

I have used it a few times back dragging to level something:

For a V519, unless you need to remove plant growth with the 8 footer, the 7 footer will cover its tracks and the 6 footer will be much better than no grapple. :thumbsup:

 

[Turbys_1700]

When I was looking at adding a grapple the overriding issues for me in order of importance was...

1. Cost
2. Weight
3. Functionality
4. Logistics

I ended up with an American Attachments 72" double lid economy grapple. So far I have had no issues to date other than occasionally the tips of the top clamp will bend in extreme situations. Easy to straighten out with a sledge hammer. Simple fix to weld an additional gusset to the end of the tip. Just haven't got around to it yet.

Cost...$905
Weight...450#
Functionality...Would have preferred a larger opening but it works well enough.
Logistics...Had to drive 85 miles to pick up.

I have attached the specs of the unit. Is it the best unit out there? Absolutely not.
Does it serve it's purpose. Absolutely yes.
Am I happy with the purchase. Absolutely.

For my use it is a great fit.

•2” bore by 8” stroke tie rod cylinder.
•3/8” tines with 9” spacing.
•3”x3”x1/4” tubing frame.
•Cylinder covers.

 

[ArmyDoc]

For me the width has never been an issue. I don't use it for pulling vines, bramble or brush.

It is 72 inches wide and covers the tracks of the V417:

View attachment 532745


I have used it a few times back dragging to level something:

View attachment 532746 View attachment 532747



For a V519, unless you need to remove plant growth with the 8 footer, the 7 footer will cover its tracks and the 6 footer will be much better than no grapple. :thumbsup:

I plan to use it to:

Tree work:
a) push over dead pine trees (have used an excavator for this - push at about 15ft high, and extend the bucket -which puts a lifting force on the tree, and the tree pops right out - even 10-14" pines) I figure I will push at ~15ft up and curl the grapple upward, to have the same effect)
b) Hold said trees to cut in 8-10ft lenghts with chain saw
c) gather and haul said trees to burn pile
d) pick up trees knocked over by wind for b and c
Brush work:
e) grab wisteria off trees higher up and rip it down
f) move large brush piles of saplings (after pulling them up stacking them with tree puller)
g) pull out and move to burn pile brush (not a lot but some)
Ground work:
In areas with wisteria or a other plants with a lot of superficial roots, grub out roots using it as a root rake.

Monster grapple certainly opens wide, and because they are close enough for me to go pick up directly from the factory, I can get it at wholesale prices. Still 72" is less than 96", so trying to figure out what is best choice.

Machine width is listed as 83", but on the diagram, the out side width of tires is shown as 90 inches.

 

[sd455dan]

Good to hear, thanks!

Another question regarding tines. I like the long bottom style rather than the clamb-shell style. Most of the long bottom grapples have a tube going across the front, maybe 8-10 inches back from the tine tips. (like Xfaxman's wide grapple) Another type, has thicker tines with gussets, that don't have that front brace (like Xfaxman's narrower grapple). I can see where the front brace would make it hard to penetrate brush or hay. Has anyone had any experience / problems with this?

I saw another post where they describe rolling the grapple over and grabbing from on top, so maybe it's not that big of a deal.

I will disagree with some other members ( about having the tines connected together near the front), Other than possibly bending or breaking a non tied tine

imo there (may) be some advantages.



slash piles with logs- generally full penetration is possible in a single stab
getting under old wet hay and manure when cleaning stalls- works Just like a Pitch Fork no pushing the material like a bunch of old carpet piling up.
grabbing large square hay bales by stabbing the bale and clamping the lid down on the top of the bale it is also possible to get under the bale and clamp just like a standard tied tine design.

 

[4570Man]

I guess there's advantages both ways. I prefer the bar across the front because I can't do rough grading with it.

 

[Piston]

I guess there's advantages both ways. I prefer the bar across the front because I can't do rough grading with it.

You meant "can" right?

I use mine a LOT for rough grading as well. Backblading gives me a nice smooth finish. I almost never see a need for a bucket anymore, but I don't do farm chores with mine.

 

[Turbys_1700]

You meant "can" right?

I use mine a LOT for rough grading as well. Backblading gives me a nice smooth finish. I almost never see a need for a bucket anymore, but I don't do farm chores with mine.

I use my forks and grapple most all of the time now. I guess forks get the most use followed by grapple then bucket.

 

[John_Mc]

I see a number of comments in this thread about the width of the grapple: covering your tracks narrower than your tracks to fit through gates, and etc. this is an area that points out the importance of knowing how and where you will be using it.

My primary use is moving logs. I went with the Sundown GR40 Forestry Grapple (very similar to the Frostbite grapple). It works very well for the intended use. I also do not lose a lot of lift capacity, since the grapple weighs almost the same as the bucket it replaced. It also works very well in scooping up piles of brush and saplings that I have cut with my clearing saw.

Where is the grapple width comes in: my tractor spends a lot of time in the woods. With the narrow forestry grapple installed, the tractor is much more maneuverable when I need to get into tight spaces in the woods (at least when I am not carrying a load). Getting around tight corners with the grapple installed is a night and day difference versus when my 66 inch bucket is on the loader.

The only downside is that I no longer have a bucket (or a multi-tined grapple that will stand in for a bucket) when I need to carry some gear. I guess I will have to finally get around to adding some chain carrying boxes, chainsaw scabbards, and various other doodads for carrying tools

 

[IslandTractor]

I plan to use it to:

Tree work:
a) push over dead pine trees (have used an excavator for this - push at about 15ft high, and extend the bucket -which puts a lifting force on the tree, and the tree pops right out - even 10-14" pines) I figure I will push at ~15ft up and curl the grapple upward, to have the same effect)
b) Hold said trees to cut in 8-10ft lenghts with chain saw
c) gather and haul said trees to burn pile
d) pick up trees knocked over by wind for b and c
Brush work:
e) grab wisteria off trees higher up and rip it down
f) move large brush piles of saplings (after pulling them up stacking them with tree puller)
g) pull out and move to burn pile brush (not a lot but some)
Ground work:
In areas with wisteria or a other plants with a lot of superficial roots, grub out roots using it as a root rake.

Monster grapple certainly opens wide, and because they are close enough for me to go pick up directly from the factory, I can get it at wholesale prices. Still 72" is less than 96", so trying to figure out what is best choice.

Machine width is listed as 83", but on the diagram, the out side width of tires is shown as 90 inches.

I do all that type of grapple work with a 300lb 48" grapple with opening width of 42+ inches. Never had a need for a wider or heavier grapple. I've used the same grapple on a 20hp and 40hp tractor. 3/8" mild steel with 0.25" square tube and round tube construction. Simple unsophisticated construction. Works fine 12 years later.

 

[Piston]

Armydoc,

Your putting this on a telehandler right? You would absolutely pretzel a 4' wide, 3/8" mild steel grapple. Do not let anyone talk you into going with a narrow lightweight grapple with this machine. Many Many Many people have been talked into this, and it's a fine option, but for your machine, you would be simply throwing money away for scrap steel if you went with the infamous $500 Millonzi 48" grapple.
(I understand that I.T. is not recommending this, but just want this to be clear in case it's a little misleading)

 

[4570Man]

You meant "can" right?

I use mine a LOT for rough grading as well. Backblading gives me a nice smooth finish. I almost never see a need for a bucket anymore, but I don't do farm chores with mine.

Yes that's what I meant. It's not the best choice for grading but it works good enough.

 

[ArmyDoc]

Armydoc,

Your putting this on a telehandler right? You would absolutely pretzel a 4' wide, 3/8" mild steel grapple. Do not let anyone talk you into going with a narrow lightweight grapple with this machine. Many Many Many people have been talked into this, and it's a fine option, but for your machine, you would be simply throwing money away for scrap steel if you went with the infamous $500 Millonzi 48" grapple.
(I understand that I.T. is not recommending this, but just want this to be clear in case it's a little misleading)

LOL, no. I'm not looking to put a mild steel light weight grapple on it. Looking at the Monster grapple Xfaxman uses, and trying to decide how wide. Smallest is 72" widest is 96". Difference in cost is a couple hundred $. I don't want to get the 72" one and wish I'd gotten one bigger. Likewise, don't want to spend the extra $ on a bigger one if 72" is good enough. With a bucket, people have told me to go as wide as the tires. Don't know if that applies to the grapple... doesn't seem to. Heck, Xfaxman has posted pictures of him carrying the whole tree, so I doubt a few inches would make a difference.

 

[goeduck]

I do all that type of grapple work with a 300lb 48" grapple with opening width of 42+ inches. Never had a need for a wider or heavier grapple. I've used the same grapple on a 20hp and 40hp tractor. 3/8" mild steel with 0.25" square tube and round tube construction. Simple unsophisticated construction. Works fine 12 years later.

I wonder why no one can build a common sense grapple like that anymore. Wide opening, narrow, lightweight. Perfect.

Closest I see out there is the 48 inch WR Long obg2 but by the time I ship it, it is $2K.