When to use WD hitch

[Eric_Phillips]

We just got a new pop up trailer and pull it with a toyota sienna. This new trailer when fully loaded is at the max of the towing capacity of the van. On my truck the towing tables show at what weight to add a weight distribution hitch. The van just says max 3000lb. When the weather clears up I want to take it to a flat parking lot and measure how much sag the trailer causes and how much rise I need on the hitch to level it out. So how do you determine when just air bags or helper springs are needed versus a WD hitch?

 

[newbury]

If a mfg writes you need a WD hitch for XXlbs that's my determination to buy a WD hitch. No use having a big lawsuit or getting a ticket to save $150 on a WD hitch.

 

[Eric_Phillips]

The van says nothing about a WD hitch that is why I am wondering how to determine if one is needed or not. Or would there be any reason to not use one?

 

[Dftodd]

If your at max weight for the vehicle, then I would reccomend a weight distribution hitch. Worst case, it helps how the trailer handles.

 

[newbury]

The van says nothing about a WD hitch that is why I am wondering how to determine if one is needed or not. Or would there be any reason to not use one?

Yes, they add to the hookup process. And if you are OCD getting the balance JUST RIGHT takes more than dropping the hitch on the ball.

I pull a 12K rated trailer with my dually, other than less "oomph" when it's loaded I don't really notice it.

 

[fried1765]

We just got a new pop up trailer and pull it with a toyota sienna. This new trailer when fully loaded is at the max of the towing capacity of the van. On my truck the towing tables show at what weight to add a weight distribution hitch. The van just says max 3000lb. When the weather clears up I want to take it to a flat parking lot and measure how much sag the trailer causes and how much rise I need on the hitch to level it out. So how do you determine when just air bags or helper springs are needed versus a WD hitch?

A weight distribution hitch is a great thing.
I pull a 12k equipment trailer with a K2500 4x4 Suburban, and the "Equal-i-zer" WD hitch makes the pull much safer than it would be without.
You need to determine the proper tongue weight though (10-15% of the trailer GVW).
When loaded, I keep 1200-1250 lbs. on the tongue (yes - I do measure it, and the Suburban has "AirLift" bags.).

 

[dodge man]

A lot of times it’s what the hitch says. On my F150 it says 500 lbs hitch weight or 5000 lbs trailer weight I need a weight distrubuting hitch.

 

[check]

A lot of times it’s what the hitch says. On my F150 it says 500 lbs hitch weight or 5000 lbs trailer weight I need a weight distrubuting hitch.

Wow - only 5000 lbs.?

 

[crazyal]

The wife's Rav4 says 1500lbs(don't know if I've ever seen a 1500lb with brakes) with brakes and 1000lbs without. I put a hitch on it so our older dog has a step to get into the back but have towed with it. I used it haul my x500 mower which I'm guessing was about 800lbs total just fits on my 5x6 trailer so there's no adjusting tongue weight. The manual just says 9% to 11% tongue weight and I'm sure it was over the 80lb tongue weight but you wouldn't of known it by looking at how much the rear dropped. So I'm guessing that towing on a minivan or car is more based on what the brakes and drivetrain can handle. A weight distributing hitch isn't going to help your transmission. I will help put more weight on the front tires and help braking but if the trailer has brakes even that would only be a benefit if the connector comes loose.

The great thing about a pop-up is you can put the feet down and load it up safely while not connected to the tow vehicle. By using a bathroom scale you can move stuff around to get the tongue weight to about 10% of what you think the total weight of the trailer is. Then you can connect it up to your van and see how much it sags. But you should also load the van (including people) when you do your test. If you want to get a quick idea then just put about 300 lbs on the rear (maybe you with a couple bags of cement or cat litter) and see if it drops much. Most newer cars have the axles pushed as far forward and to the rear as possible to help with stability so tongue weight isn't going to have as much effect as it would with a truck.

 

[dodge man]

I think you will find a lot of trucks that say to use a WD hitch at 5000 lbs, most people don’t know it. It’s one thing I miss about the 3/4 ton Chevy I traded in, it had a class V hitch and was something like 11,000 lbs.

 

[newbury]

Wow - only 5000 lbs.?

Yup

I think you will find a lot of trucks that say to use a WD hitch at 5000 lbs, most people don稚 know it. It痴 one thing I miss about the 3/4 ton Chevy I traded in, it had a class V hitch and was something like 11,000 lbs.

My dually is rated for 12,000 lbs. The label on the factory hitch specifies WD over 5,000 lbs.

 

[YLee Kioti]

We just got a new pop up trailer and pull it with a toyota sienna. This new trailer when fully loaded is at the max of the towing capacity of the van. On my truck the towing tables show at what weight to add a weight distribution hitch. The van just says max 3000lb. When the weather clears up I want to take it to a flat parking lot and measure how much sag the trailer causes and how much rise I need on the hitch to level it out. So how do you determine when just air bags or helper springs are needed versus a WD hitch?

I would also be concerned about the word 'max'. Just cause one can don't mean one should.
So please take into consideration load rating of tires are the P rated or load rate D or E?
Is the transmission a CVT? Are they known to have any normal issues that can be amplified by running a full towing capacity?
Do you have a local grain/feed store near you? Some of them have a free public scale which means you can pull up with your loaded trailer and find out what you're really dealing with. If you go to eTrailer or someone else looking into a WDH they want to know to the best of one's ability all the weight numbers to get the correct set up.

If you're OK with all that then by all means enjoy the camper!

on edit:
"So how do you determine when just air bags or helper springs are needed versus a WD hitch?"

air bags and spring helpers help with sag and may be great for pulling tractors, equipment etc. but a TT is a tad different.
You are pulling a box of sheeted plywood for a visual. the WDH helps move some of the weight to the front wheels which helps with loading the wheels for steering control.
The ball is a pivot point and the wind whips the trailer pretty hard versus equipment where the wind is not blocked like holding up a sheet of plywood.
So with towing at full max a WDH may be the best option to ensure the load is spread to the front wheels for steering control.

Hope I didn't confuse the both of us still on my second cup of coffee.

 

[nikdfish]

Wow - only 5000 lbs.?

You are kind of in a trick bag with the F-150 factory tow setup. You are good for 1000 lb tongue/10,000 towed, but only with WD, otherwise 500/5000. You can't just pull the factory hitch & replace it without serious work - the bumper mounts are different with the tow package & dependent on the OEM hitch. We have a 2008 crewcab F-150 w/factory tow package & I looked into it a few years back.

 

[dodge man]

My 3/4 ton Dodge I used to own also said anything over 500/5000 lbs I needed a weight distributing hitch.

 

[motownbrowne]

I just looked at a 1994 Chevy 3500 dually with a 454. Factory mounted receiver hitch was rated at (drumroll please........):

500# tongue weight and 5000# gross trailer weight unless using a WD hitch.

They make higher rated receivers that bolt right up of course, but I was pretty surprised to see it that way from the factory.

 

[dodge man]

A true class V hitch is rated much higher. You can tell its a class V partly because the shank that goes into the receiver is much bigger. My Chevy with the class V came with an adaptor so you could use the standard size shank also. Also the hitch and draw bar the ball goes on come in different quality and weight ability.