What do i need to sharpen bsh hog blade?

[CMV]

Bush Hog BH 6. My impact driver is a smaller 3/8 one about the size of a cordless drill so I'm sure that isn't up to the task. Does anyone know what size/spec impact driver, socket size, or anything else I'll want to have on hand to do this? It's a remote site so don't want to make extra trip since i didn't think to bring X with me.

If i remember right from when it was new, 'sharpen' isn't right term. It was much more blunt that a typical mover blade new. So I just take an angle grinder to it & get the dings out - I'm not looking for any type of knife edge correct?

 

[Looking4new]

Bush Hog BH 6. My impact driver is a smaller 3/8 one about the size of a cordless drill so I'm sure that isn't up to the task. Does anyone know what size/spec impact driver, socket size, or anything else I'll want to have on hand to do this? It's a remote site so don't want to make extra trip since i didn't think to bring X with me.

If i remember right from when it was new, 'sharpen' isn't right term. It was much more blunt that a typical mover blade new. So I just take an angle grinder to it & get the dings out - I'm not looking for any type of knife edge correct?

It is better if you CANNOT shave with it. Your 1/4" impact isn't up to the job, but a 1/2" impact will do the deed. Almost guaranteed.

 

[AWSubie]

You don’t need an impact driver. I always use a half inch breaker bar and about 3 foot pipe extension.

 

[the old grind]

The nicks aren't so bad. Don't try to remove them, too much stock to remove. On mower blades we sharpen to a 1/32" flat (.030"). On a BH blade 1/16" (.060") is darn sharp.

btw, if anyone ever considers hard-facing a blade's cutting edge be sure it's done neatly or you may give up on sharpening it long before you grind an 'edge' on the bead.

btw, Chris, did you get that Howa to shoot OK? Getting the seating depth right first beats trying 'X' powders before knowing what the throat prefers for each pill.

(You new that. Others might not have heard yet. )

 

[CMV]

I got it to about an inch & a half, but not the cloverleaf I'm still chasing Your stuff helped a LOT!

 

[i7win7]

Amazon.com : torque multiplier

these maybe a wish list shop item for problem fasteners

 

[the old grind]

I use the blue wrench on a lot of chassis and powertrain stuff. The typical three ears holding a car's front wheel bearing cartridge to the knuckle are a common use to remove the bolts w/o snapping them off. I don't have to keep them hot to remove, they come out easily once they've been red. Monte Carlo (2R, 1L) and Jeep Wrangler (L) were my latest. ('17-'19)

Blades may mount by std or by shoulder bolts. Don't ever replace with SS hoping to dodge rust, they won't last. If you can get a jam nut on threads protruding through the flange, grease threads, tighten well, and remember they're there if you'll r&r the blades again someday.

(See below )

 

[RalphVa]

Guess I'm confused whether you're talking about removing the blades and/or sharpening them.

I remove mine with a 3/4" socket driver with a 6 ft piece of pipe that slides over it. Retorque it the same way: more or less give it all I have to tighten.

You do not "sharpen" the blades. You take the big lumps caused by gouges in the blade and smooth them out quite a bit on one side and a little bit on the other side. I grind mine on a bench grinder, keeping track of the # of times I pass the entire length of the cut edge so as to try to keep it near the same weight as the other other. It won't be anywhere near sharp, but it'll cut grass. I don't see how you could keep them in place to use a hand-held grinder on a drill.

Ralph

 

[3gunr]

Why take them off at all? reach under with an angle grinder and sharpen them in place. I do it all the time on 4 different rotary cutters. Raise it as high as it will go and put some blocks under it to be safe.

 

[JasperFrank]

I gently flip the bushhog over, using the FEL, and then run an angle grinder on the blades.

 

[MossRoad]

I like to keep an extra set of blades so all I have to do is swap them out. I can sharpen the spare at my convenience.

 

[Looking4new]

I took mine off (I have a 1/2" impact) both the walk behind and the ride on and sharpened them vice-gripped to the FEL bucket.

 

[skipperbrown]

I gently flip the bushhog over, using the FEL, and then run an angle grinder on the blades.

This is what I do too, held vertically. Just make sure its bombproof supported and there is absolutely no chance it can fall (on you). The torque specs for blades on my cutter are around 450 foot pounds. You need a big air wrench or a long cheater bar to loosen/tighten. Most manufacturers show a 1/16" edge as "sharp".

 

[FTG-05]

Why take them off at all? reach under with an angle grinder and sharpen them in place. I do it all the time on 4 different rotary cutters. Raise it as high as it will go and put some blocks under it to be safe.

The one time I did it: Standing comfortably vs. laying on the ground (and having to get up - eventually).

Far easier to just lift it with the FEL and work comfortably.

 

[Looking4new]

Far easier to just lift it with the FEL and work comfortably.

That is the way I do it. Chain the front bumper and hoist away.

 

[arizona98tj]

Why take them off at all? reach under with an angle grinder and sharpen them in place. I do it all the time on 4 different rotary cutters. Raise it as high as it will go and put some blocks under it to be safe.

That is how I do it. I use a couple of jack stands, as my safety blocks, to make sure nothing unexpected happens while I am sitting at the back end with my angle grinder in hand. Works great.

 

[MESSMAKER]

Why take them off at all? reach under with an angle grinder and sharpen them in place. I do it all the time on 4 different rotary cutters. Raise it as high as it will go and put some blocks under it to be safe.

The easy way, by far.

 

[DKCDKC]

Agree... Lift with FEL, brace in place and sharpen with a hand grinder - balancing the grinding on both blades to keep balanced. I don't go sharp, but a little sharper than most because I have a fair amount of grass to cut. Rather have a finish or flay mower, but can't justify the price... And the rotary cutter is mandatory for some brushy areas.

 

[RSKY]

I flip mine up against a big tree. Then brace the blade with a 4x4 and use an angle grinder.

 

[MESSMAKER]

Why take them off at all? reach under with an angle grinder and sharpen them in place. I do it all the time on 4 different rotary cutters. Raise it as high as it will go and put some blocks under it to be safe.

I don't understand either. Raise the cutter. Put some jack stands in place. Wedge the blade in place. go at it with an angle grinder. It is a 10 minute job at most.