Well Pump issues

[Yander]

My son's well pump stopped working, he said it had been starting to make a lot of noise and had been that way for a while. Then it just quit today. We went and put on a new pump and were able to get it primed and pumping and then it would shut off with all the water lines still open and then kick back on and run for a while and then shutoff again.

It did that for several minutes. The water pressure never got very high either. I messed with the pressure adjustment but it didn't seem to change. It was pulling water out of the well so I don't think it is restricted there. I do wonder if it is sucking air from somewhere because that is kind of what it acts like. But I cannot figure out why the pump would ever shutoff if the pressure were not met.

I'm going to replace all of the hose clamps tomorrow and try to prime the line from the well better tomorrow. I know one of the hose clamps would not tighten right so it may be that. Any thoughts from you guys.

The biggest mystery to me is why it would shutoff on it's own when it hasn't gotten any real pressure built up. Also, do those above ground pumps run so hot you cannot touch the motor, because this one was?

Here is the model of the new pump.

 

[oldnslo]

If to hot to touch suspect thermal overload was being met and shutting the motor off.

 

[Carl_NH]

Yander - assume single pipe into well so a shallow well or two pipe system ?

Either way, a hot pump/heat build up means the ejector inside the pump is blocked. It's pushing enough water pressure to cut off the pressure switch but limited to no volume, which points to a plugged jet in pump or down in the well if a two pipe system.

If two pipe systems you could try to remove the blockage with compressed air down the smaller pipe, but thats a long shot.

 

[Carl_NH]

Re-reading your post - get some new clamps and double clamp the fittings. If it doesn't change you could hit the fittings/poly pipe briefly with a torch then tighten, but getting the poly off after you heat it up will be a PIA, so remove the pipe first and if a single pipe system, take the pump apart and check the ejector.

 

[Yander]

It is just one pipe, that is not good news. I'm thinking the thermal overload is shutting the pump off and not the water pressure. That would explain why it is shutting off without pressure.

Could this be the pump is not designed to lift from the distance the well is at? I know his well is not close to his house, probably over 75 feet in front of his house and I do not know how deep it is. This pump is only designed to lift from 70ft. deep. I know that wayne makes one with 186ft head lift. I may have him try that pump.

 

[camshawn]

You need to size the hp and pump to the lift (head) and flow needed. If the head is too big or too small the motor could be overloaded ( causing the thermal ol’ to trip). You could try to close the taps down to limit the flow. An ammeter and the pump curve are your friends.

 

[BigGG]

If there is only one pipe from the well to the pump, it is a shallow well. A shallow well pump can only lift 30' maximum. The 70' stated on the box is for a deep well, two pipe setup.

As stated above, the pump can be stopped by the pressure switch or the thermal over-load switch in the motor, which seems to be your issue. Most people don't realize that a high flow will cause a high load on a centrifugal pump. As noted above, throttle the discharge valve to reduce the flow.

But, first, how was the pump hooked up? Is a shallow well ejector installed? You can't just plug the small hole on the pump and hook the suction pipe to the large one. That would cause the symptoms you're seeing though.

Can you post a picture or two?

Edit, I meant to add that low voltage to the motor can also cause over heating. Measure the voltage with the pump running. You don't have a 220v motor running on 110v, do you?

 

[mrmikey]

Also, do those above ground pumps run so hot you cannot touch the motor, because this one was?

Any chance you've got it wired up 120V instead of 240V or the other way 'round?

 

[Jstpssng]

Any chance you've got it wired up 120V instead of 240V or the other way 'round?

His pump can be run either way, but the wires are hooked up differently.

 

[steve tym]

My first thought is the voltage. Most motors are multi voltage and easy to change. Check the incoming voltage, then check which way the motor is wired.

 

[steve tym]

And as stated above, physics only allows a single pipe jet to lift water about 30' at sea level. Doesn't matter who the manufacturer is.

 

[Jstpssng]

If it had a shallow well pump before it should be able to handle another. Getting the pump primed again can be a challenge though. I have a dug well and it's 275 feet from the house, with no vertical lift. When I replaced my pump I had to take the foot valve off, then pump water from a bucket backwards up to the spring.

Is it a drilled or dug well?
Don't leave the water lines open, that's one reason it isn't building pressure. Let it build as far as it will go, then crack one faucet until the pressure starts to drop again. It does sound like you have air someplace but unless there's a leak unrelated to the pump failure; either in the line, foot valve or pitless adapter; you should be able to bleed it out.

 

[Egon]

Check The well water levels.

 

[Yander]

Thanks for all of the input, I have a few things to check now. I also am wondering if the foot valve could be bad. I have to ask my son some more questions also.

It is a 110 breaker, I need to check that the pump is switched to 110v. I assumed it was and shouldn't have assumed that.

 

[mrmikey]

His pump can be run either way, but the wires are hooked up differently.

Understood but I was meaning could it have been wired incorrectly either by being supplied one way and powered another.

It is a 110 breaker, I need to check that the pump is switched to 110v. I assumed it was and shouldn't have assumed that.

You know what ass-u-me does

It comes wired for 220V according to the specs.

 

[steve tym]

It's the voltage. And it's very lazy starting and never comes up to speed. The starting switch is probably engaging and disengaging. Eventually the thermal overload opens and the pump stops running.
Nothing to do with water levels, single pipe or two pipe. Unless they melted the impeller from running too long without moving water. And, you don't get to take it back under warrenty if you did.

 

[Carl_NH]

Your pump should have the ejector on the front like this one. Zoeller 1 HP 463-0006 Cast Iron Convertible Jet Pump With Power Plus 56 Frame MotorDefault Title

The 220-110 wiring change should be a matter of moving a few spade connections on the back of the motor.

 

[Smokeydog]

If 240v check amps on both legs. Should be similar. Sometimes when one conductor or connection is compromised it will read voltage but read low amps. Running on half power will heat up the motor up.

 

[Yander]

We switched the wiring to 115v and it is working fine now. I also put all new clamps on and doubled them up. I didn't think the motor sounded right yesterday. And Ass Ume certainly made an @$$ out of my yesterday.

Based on your comments I told my son to read the instructions and make sure it didn't come wired for 230v. Then when I was in Lowes getting parts today I looked at the box that the exact pump came in on the shelf and it said comes wired at 230v and I called my son immediately and said, its the voltage.

Thanks for all the input guys!

 

[grsthegreat]

Real men don’t need instructions .

you would not believe the number of service calls I’ve been on due to someone not following instructions. But I like earning easy money.