Water line question

[ranger danger]

What ever pipe you use, don't sleeve it. Just shade the pipe with 6" of construction sand.

 

[EddieWalker]

I ran 11/4 pvc from meter to house which was about 270’ I then continued the run to shop with 1” pvc. I had purchased two can of blue cement and 2 cans of purple primer. I took the blue back and got the green. Always thought blue was the best. Thanks guys for your help.

What is green cement? My Water Utility requires "Heavy Duty Clear Cement and Purple Primer" Every Inspector that I've ever dealt with in every city that I've worked in has required "Heavy Duty Cement and Purple Primer" on all PVC lines. That includes drain and vent lines. Other stuff might work for something like a vent line, but the first thing they look for is the purple color on the pipe. Once they see that, they usually trust that you used Heavy Duty Clear Cement. I've only been asked about that once, and I think he was kind of new to the job.

Talk to the person in charge of the Water Utility on what you should use.

Almost every failure is from the connections.

 

[the old grind]

Some localities near here require an air-leak test of all drain/vent as well as supply lines on new builds. Plumber doesn't like climbing roof to remove caps on stacks after getting green tag.

 

[rickyb01]

I’m in a very rural area and we are lucky to have city water. It was only possible years ago with a grant from federal government.

the green can cement I got was heavy duty clear.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I sure wouldn't consider it "luck" to have city water! lol

SR

 

[3Ts]

We had a choice to have a well or be on city water. The city water is on the other side of the state highway and would cost as much in connection charges as a well would cost. There are additional monthly fees, frequent boil water notices, and their pumps quit on a regular basis among other issues with the water company. We made a good decision to go with a well.

 

[grsthegreat]

My hook up to a 2” community water meter was included in purchase price of my property. I pay $35/ month off season, about $100 at peak of hot season.

got a bid on a well and small holding tank 15 years ago. $45,000

ill stick with community well. Plus its backed up with a pair of 130kw generators and 2x250,000 underground holding tanks.

 

[EddieWalker]

We had a choice to have a well or be on city water. The city water is on the other side of the state highway and would cost as much in connection charges as a well would cost. There are additional monthly fees, frequent boil water notices, and their pumps quit on a regular basis among other issues with the water company. We made a good decision to go with a well.

City water line was across a State Highway for me too. In 2005, it cost me $3,500 to have a bore drilled under the highway and then a metal pipe pulled through that hole, and then they installed the gasketed water lines through the hole and tapped into the main water line. They also installed a valve inside my property line. From that valve, I installed the gasketed pipe to my home, and the Water Department came back and inspected what I did, and they installed the meter. By installing the meter next to my house, they became responsible for the line leading up to the meter. I forget why this was something they wanted, but I didn't see any negatives to it. About 5 years later, I had a leak in the water line and they came out and fixed it.

Couple years ago I had a Natural Gas line installed from across the highway to the house. Cost of the bore hole, pipe, sleeve and their labor was $3,800

I've never heard of a well that was drilled for less then $4,000

 

[3Ts]

City water line was across a State Highway for me too. In 2005, it cost me $3,500 to have a bore drilled under the highway and then a metal pipe pulled through that hole, and then they installed the gasketed water lines through the hole and tapped into the main water line. They also installed a valve inside my property line. From that valve, I installed the gasketed pipe to my home, and the Water Department came back and inspected what I did, and they installed the meter. By installing the meter next to my house, they became responsible for the line leading up to the meter. I forget why this was something they wanted, but I didn't see any negatives to it. About 5 years later, I had a leak in the water line and they came out and fixed it.

Couple years ago I had a Natural Gas line installed from across the highway to the house. Cost of the bore hole, pipe, sleeve and their labor was $3,800

I've never heard of a well that was drilled for less then $4,000

The well was a lot more than $4,000. The cost for boring under the road, the connection, all the things up to and including the meter was more than $10k. Don't remember exactly, but was close to the cost of the well estimate. Mine was done in Oct 2013.

 

[plowhog]

Eddie, the "green can" cement is Heavy Duty. I bought a can at Lowe's yesterday-- it has green on the label.

I just changed my well pump to a Subdrive 20 constant pressure system. I really like it-- I have the benefits of a well and city-type pressure. I now have constant 60psi no matter what is going on in the house or irrigation.

The well pump is also 3 phase, so if you only have a very small draw like opening a faucet, the pump spins very slowly keeping up with the small demand As demand increases it spins as fasts as needed to keep up.

 

[LouNY]

My drilled well that replaced the dug well was $3500 in 1994.
97 feet of casing and 160 ft deep well.

 

[Frankenkubota]

City water line was across a State Highway for me too. In 2005, it cost me $3,500 to have a bore drilled under the highway and then a metal pipe pulled through that hole, and then they installed the gasketed water lines through the hole and tapped into the main water line. They also installed a valve inside my property line. From that valve, I installed the gasketed pipe to my home, and the Water Department came back and inspected what I did, and they installed the meter. By installing the meter next to my house, they became responsible for the line leading up to the meter. I forget why this was something they wanted, but I didn't see any negatives to it. About 5 years later, I had a leak in the water line and they came out and fixed it.

Couple years ago I had a Natural Gas line installed from across the highway to the house. Cost of the bore hole, pipe, sleeve and their labor was $3,800

I've never heard of a well that was drilled for less then $4,000

I wish i would have looked into meter placement. It never occurred to me to ask.

It was more $ for me to dig a well than to hook up to county water and bury a 2 in, 2600 ft pipe. I've had a few wells and a few problems...... i prefer county water

I've got 115 psi at the road and after falling about 30 ft, i bet i got 130-150 psi at the house sit. yea, i've got pressure reducers installed.

 

[lennyzx11]

I would avoid PVC. To many fittings and junctions can cause leaks.
Have you though about black poly? I have 400ft of 1in (80 or 100psi) sitting on the surface from a spring for 2 yrs now. The 160psi stuff is quite a bit thicker. I wouldnt bother with sleeving the 160psi black/blue poly. I do believe that it's also cheaper and thicker than pex but I could be wrong.

This. ^ Black Poly. I just finished 200+ feet with 1” and 2 crimp rings at each connection. Laid in a sand bed about 6” deep under and over.
Last one I did is going on 30 years old and daily use and never one problem.

You’ll want to lay it out in the sun and unroll it though.
It’s like fighting an anaconda when cold and stiff!

 

[hslogger]

Schedule 40 You "might " think about a few other things. Black Poly has a way of being eaten by gophers or moles. Ask me how I know. Run a wire alongside you new buried pipe so SOMEDAY you or your successor will know where exactly the pipe is. Draw a map with full description and put it in a file cabinet where you keep or should be keeping stuff like this. When it comes to uprights that you might want to add, use street elbows so that If it ever gets backed into or hit, it won't break the line itself.

 

[suncoast]

I agree with the suggestions of larger diameter piping. I have irrigation covering 8 acres of palm trees. I ran 2” pipe for mains and first branch. What was originally run from well pump to house, stable and guest house was 1 1/4”. Flow test was quite different between. Both tested with 5hp pump. The longer the lengths the better results. Admitting I’m not the norm, but much greater performance.
I haven’t worked with pecan outside so can’t advise on that. PVC 40 is what I used and have not had any failures in almost 20 years.
We use 80 for irrigation uprights as they are exposed to working areas. Might be overkill for underground. Don’t know if I would trust slip / compression fittings. Correct glue procedure welds fittings. Again, I’ve never had a failure. Different people, different opinions. But you will not regret going with a larger size.

 

[suncoast]

Not pecan(spell check stepped in) PEX

 

[Williy]

If you use PEX make sure its type "B"
Personally I would go with the PVC been in
the ground for 36 years and no leaks yet!
There are a lot of pro's and con's on PEX!
You can hear all kinds of stories about PEX!
Some good and some bad. All it takes is
for someone using pex has a leak and its
trash, sound fimilar???

willy

 

[Handloader109]

If you use black poly, do not have any connections along the way. One continuous length. Otherwise it can fail. I have a line that was put down about 20 odd years ago that I had leak about halfway of a 1300 ft length. Stainless steel clamp had rusted through. The SS clamps are Ss, but most of the screws in them arent.... And once it had let go, the line pushed apart. New home for my daughter this year, Pex throughout and for the main line. I had pvc for my home in MS. 25 years and no issues on the main line, but **** in the house. Never again.

 

[Menagerie-Manor]

If you use black poly, do not have any connections along the way. One continuous length. Otherwise it can fail. I have a line that was put down about 20 odd years ago that I had leak about halfway of a 1300 ft length. Stainless steel clamp had rusted through. The SS clamps are Ss, but most of the screws in them arent.... And once it had let go, the line pushed apart. New home for my daughter this year, Pex throughout and for the main line. I had pvc for my home in MS. 25 years and no issues on the main line, but **** in the house. Never again.

The same SS pinch clamps are now very common on the poly installations these days, faster, better and cheaper is the motto.

 

[grsthegreat]

Thats why i went with the compression brass fittings instead of the insert with 4 SS clamps. I did not want to cheap out on a fitting 5 feet underground.