TroyBilt 8HP Horse Refurb

   / TroyBilt 8HP Horse Refurb #51  
For sure. Just keep in mind not any Honda will work. Small Engine Warehouse makes a repower kit for the Horse. The crank is turned down to fit the top pulley. You might or might not need some shims to align both pulleys. Love those Honda engines
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   / TroyBilt 8HP Horse Refurb
  • Thread Starter
#52  
For sure. Just keep in mind not any Honda will work. Small Engine Warehouse makes a repower kit for the Horse. The crank is turned down to fit the top pulley. You might or might not need some shims to align both pulleys. Love those Honda enginesView attachment 725141
Understood - but good to clarity for all. Nice comparison photos.

Looks like someone was yankin' on it...

Me, I'm a happy pooch with my electric starter working again.
 
   / TroyBilt 8HP Horse Refurb #53  
I have a Horse (with PTO) that my mother bought in 1978 and then gave to me when she was diagnosed with terminal cancer about 6 years ago. At the time, the PTO version was supposed to be only available in Canada (according to the Troybilt site), but she got one. She and my stepdad were still keeping a garden after I left for college in 1976, but not one so big as needing the 8N or the Cub Farmall anymore. The old plow horse was sold along with all of the cattle when my step-grandfather got too old to be out amongst them (but you couldn't tell him that), so they didn't have her to work the garden with either. So, my mother bought the Troybilt 6HP Horse with hiller and furrower so my stepdad could still work the garden. The plow attachment had never been used until I did after I got it, mostly out of curiosity and while prepping a new garden plot. It had the 6 HP Tecumseh on it, cast iron block and that was probably one of the quietest air-cooled engines I've ever been around. Unfortunately, parts for it simply aren't available now, so I wound up repowering it with one of Harbor Freight's Predator engines, which looks very much like a Briggs & Stratton. That thing is even quieter, and a lot stronger than I remember the Tecumseh being. Probably the overhead valve thing, dunno. I didn't have to do a thing to the shaft or any shims or anything. It bolted right on, the pulley (which I should have replaced) fit like a glove, and it went on so fast I kept thinking I'd missed something. I still need to refit the throttle cable, but it really isn't that big a deal because the Predator came with a throttle lever on it as well as a cut-off switch, and best of all, a fuel cut-off valve. When I get ready to store it for the winter, I just shut the fuel valve off before I pull it into the shop, and let it run out of fuel to drain the carb and keep the ethanol from screwing it up. I liked that so much, I've added fuel cut-offs to ALL of my small engines. I haven't replaced a carburetor in a long time now. The Predator is a good bit lighter than the Tecumseh too, cast aluminum versus cast iron, etc. That really didn't seem to affect the performance much, albeit it's a little heavier in transport holding the tines off the ground. Not a problem if I put the depth gauge all the way down, though. If anything, it makes it work better in the clay and rocks I have here versus the nice soil I grew up on. I've used it to clean up and flatten a few places in my yard but getting grass to grow back on this deadpan makes me hesitate to do that anymore. Now, I use it when me and the missus build a new flower bed and need to mangle small roots and chew up the clay some and mix in chips and stuff to loosen it up.

I need to give the Horse a complete overhaul/restoration. Tranny sounds/feels good, no noise from the PTO, but axle and PTO are both leaking, so I figure seals and fresh dif grease should do the trick. It could use a set of tines as well. I would LOVE to sandblast and powder coat it, which would be a better paint job than it had originally, but I'm not sure if I want it out of service that long. Most of the decals have peeled off because it was left sitting in a lean-to next to our storage shed, (and then under my deck for about 6 years) so not really inside any part of it's life. I found out the decals are still available from Troybilt, though. I put tubes in the original tires, and it's working like a champ. It has the original turf tires on it, but I'm thinking bar-lug if I restore it. My folks' place had really nice sandy soil, easy to work, and the turfies were fine for that, but this sticky clay fills them up QUICK.

I managed to get the old Tecumseh to start when I first got it up here from the home farm, but it was using more oil than fuel because the piston rings are stuck. It was blowing oil out the muffler, but still, it ran (poorly). The blow-by was so bad it started pushing oil through the PCV into the breather housing. Needless to say, I knew it was done-for without a major overhaul. Those were TOUGH engines. I tried to find a new carb for it because it STILL had some sludge in the fuel tank which says it just got parked with a full tank and never used again. In the mean time, I just took it off, disassembled, soaked it in some Seafoam for a couple weeks. Put it back together, and it fired up. I was impressed that it wasn't completely seized up. I was going to break it down and see if I could salvage it, but HF had a sale on the 6.5 HP Predators for $100 about the same time I was researching parts for a 50-year-old Tecumseh. Nearly every major component in the engine shows up as "No Longer Available" on the Tecumseh site. That made the decision to repower a no-brainer. I was going to wind up spending that much in parts to resuscitate the old Tecumseh, and still have no guarantee it would run any better. I wanted to keep it original through and through, but it just wasn't in the cards.

I still have EVERY piece of the original documentation on that thing, Owner's manual, all the marketing pamphlets, bill of sale, even the freight bill where she signed for it when it was delivered. She even put a copy of the cancelled check in the file with it. Now I know why I'm such a packrat. I added the receipt for the Predator engine to the file.
 
   / TroyBilt 8HP Horse Refurb #54  
If you have a powder coater in your area you might check on turn around time. Since you will have it tore down to do the necessary seal replacements and other repairs it would be a perfect time to take the sheet metal to them for sandblasting and coating. The cast iron parts can be wire brushed and painted by you, International red rattle can. Decals can be purchased online and maybe consider new tires, easier to paint the wheels prior to mounting the tires. You will have a like new 1978 Troy Bilt.
Here’s a 1964 Lincoln Idealarc250 I restored for a customer that his Grandfather bought new. He wanted to give it to his grandson. Powder coat is a wonderful process. This old welder still welds as good if not better than new ones
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   / TroyBilt 8HP Horse Refurb #55  
I bought this 1976 Horse with 6 hp Tecumseh little over two years ago for $200

Replaced a drive belt, wheel shaft & tine shaft oil seals, also added fuel shutoff valve & proper fuel filter and $10 carburetor from eBay, but other than that it's all original.

The engine starts easy and does not burn oil so the plan is to use it as is.


In other words:
The guy (math teacher) who sold it for $200 made the right decision to sell it because he was not interested (capable or willing who knows?) in doing the needed repairs and it would not have made sense to hire someone to do the work.

Cheers,

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   / TroyBilt 8HP Horse Refurb #56  
I agree, run her until the rod leaves the block. Keep the oil changed and tip top full at all times. It will last a long time.
 
   / TroyBilt 8HP Horse Refurb #57  
I bought this 1976 Horse with 6 hp Tecumseh little over two years ago for $200

Replaced a drive belt, wheel shaft & tine shaft oil seals, also added fuel shutoff valve & proper fuel filter and $10 carburetor from eBay, but other than that it's all original.

The engine starts easy and does not burn oil so the plan is to use it as is.


In other words:
The guy (math teacher) who sold it for $200 made the right decision to sell it because he was not interested (capable or willing who knows?) in doing the needed repairs and it would not have made sense to hire someone to do the work.
Same Tecumseh as mine with some very minor differences in 76 model and 78. In 78, Tecumseh changed the carb/intake to put a larger air filter on it with vertical orientation. The muffler on mine is quite different too. It's about half the size of a 1 lb coffee can and mounted with standard pipe fittings (the exhaust port is 3/4 NPT) instead of the little flat mufflers with a spark arrester. My folks paid $1000 for the Horse in '78, so you got a pretty good deal at $200, especially in that condition. IMHO, if folks don't want to take the time to learn how to fix their equipment, someone who does deserves a good deal. Just know when that Tecumseh gives up, you're not going to get parts from Tecumseh. It's a discontinued engine. I spent HOURS trying to find an alternate source. I didn't want to open it up and risk breaking something without recourse for replacements. But, as I said, the Predator 6HP engine from HF bolts right on. I like the nerf bars. That's about the only option my mother didn't get when she ordered it. Electric Start was available with the 8HP Kohler, but not the 6HP Tecumseh. I never considered anything under 10 HP to be worthy of an electric starter anyway. As I get older, though ....
 
   / TroyBilt 8HP Horse Refurb #58  
I agree, run her until the rod leaves the block. Keep the oil changed and tip top full at all times. It will last a long time.

Yes, with proper oil change interval it should.

I have a good spare Tecumseh 6 hp engine with electric start & larger vertical air filter, just in case my rotator cuff issue ever comes back....
It's about the same engine, axcept cast aluminum block & ignition.
 
   / TroyBilt 8HP Horse Refurb
  • Thread Starter
#59  
Enjoyed OldPaint's account of that machine's history, and his family's engrams imprinted on it, and now its future.

Recognize the '76 shown by art98607 as the model my Gramps had, and the first one I used.

I run full synthetic oil in everything, and the high octane no-ethanol fuel which is available here. Each 5 gal. can gets a dollop of StarTron. Since establishing that some years ago, I've had no carb problems in anything.
 
 
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