trail clearing technique and tools

[ArlyA]

You may need to construct some puncheon. I looked for a video showing how it is done and couldn't locate anything I liked. Here is a photo of the idea.

 

[kenmbz]

That might work, would have to make wider since it will need to have a tractor roll on it.

 

[ArlyA]

That might work, would have to make wider since it will need to have a tractor roll on it.

What we've done is stake 6x6 down the width you need to be. Add 4x4's to hold the left and right 6x6's together because the material you add with be pushing the sides (6x6s) outwards. All these are of course ground treated wood. Add geo mat and put in the sand/gravel. If you have water flowing to the other side, then you'll need to add culevrts so your puncheon doen't make a dam. This is over simplifed but that's the idea..

 

[ArlyA]

I need to give fiskars 32" gear loppers a shout out for the great tool they are. We've used these for many years and resharpen them over then over again. We occasionally do break the blade part and email a photo of it to fiskares and a new one is sent. No calling, just email them the photo with your address. Great tool and service!

 

[hayden]

I've built and/or reopened miles of trails. Most are old skid trails from logging, and provide a good starting point. My weapon of choice is a mini-excavator. It doesn't give you quaint walking trails, but it does give you great rails for hiking, skiing, UTVs, horseback, etc. I've actually learned to cut back the foliage as far as possible simply because it will then take longer for the trail to get choked back in by growth.

For an initial clearing, I run through with a bucket and thumb and remove all the fallen logs and bigger shurbs and trees that are right in the path.

Then I come through with a mulcher head on the mini to clean up and cut back as far as it will reach.

Subsequent maintenance is will a tractor and rotary mower, but after a few years the adjacent trees all grow sideways and start to choke the trail back down, and which point I do another pass with the mulcher.

 

[tomplum]

Nice looking trails. Envious of the lack of blackberries. Did a tank of gas in mine this afternoon. Anyone that deals with blackberries and the like, this is the best blade ever. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RZH0V4G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[two_bit_score]

Always good info in these threads @ArlyA! Thanks for another one!

 

[ArlyA]

Out checking trails yesterday. Top two is a newly built ADA trail that needs further water control done to it...

Maple shoots we'll need to cut on a different one.

 

[ArlyA]

I work like to try one of these blades to cut the shoots down as seen in the above photos. Might be better in the gravel and rocks we work in. Has anyone used these?

 

[cqaigy2]

Very cool thread!


Many years ago, did trail work up in the Cascades. Most of the sweat was breaking up basalt, very little brush clearing. Making switchbacks was very interesting too. Was very annoying when something got away from you and you had to climb down 600 feet to where it fetched up against something and haul it back up. Loved it all. Sometimes navy jets would come over from the west side of the state and they'd buzz you when up on a ridge.

 

[Elvenhome21]

ArlyA Don't waste the money. The rivets break and send the knives flying. I had 2 that disintegrated cutting under 1" brush. When one gets knocked off it goes out of balance and all the rest go within a minute or 2.
Depending on what your doing a 12" saw blade works wonders for samplings, sucks in grass. All of the 3-4-6 knive blades only work for grass and weeds. I've gone back to just using .105 string and saw blade.

 

[ArlyA]

ArlyA Don't waste the money. The rivets break and send the knives flying. I had 2 that disintegrated cutting under 1" brush. When one gets knocked off it goes out of balance and all the rest go within a minute or 2.

Thanks for the review! Could the rivets be replaced with 10-24 cap screws or some size along with nylon lock nuts??

 

[Elvenhome21]

Wouldn't waste the time. The knives bent when they hit hard stuff. You'd be way ahead getting the plastic knives gator head from the home improvement store. They work and last way better.

 

[Elvenhome21]

I was lucky I had steel toes and thick pants on when the steel knives came off. I had one slice thru my pants and catch on my boot. They are way to chinsy and dangerous to be any good.

 

[kenmbz]

ArlyA Don't waste the money. The rivets break and send the knives flying. I had 2 that disintegrated cutting under 1" brush. When one gets knocked off it goes out of balance and all the rest go within a minute or 2.
Depending on what your doing a 12" saw blade works wonders for samplings, sucks in grass. All of the 3-4-6 knive blades only work for grass and weeds. I've gone back to just using .105 string and saw blade.

Lucky no one got hurt. Sounds like a wonderfully dangerous tool from a place where liability is non-existent.

 

[airbiscuit]

This

 

[ArlyA]

I was out knocking down some grass, weeds and tree shoots this week. This is with .155 string on a a Echo power head. Top photo shows some of the shoots which are not a problem for this weight of string.

 

[ArlyA]

ArlyA Don't waste the money. The rivets break and send the knives flying. I had 2 that disintegrated cutting under 1" brush. When one gets knocked off it goes out of balance and all the rest go within a minute or 2.
Depending on what your doing a 12" saw blade works wonders for samplings, sucks in grass. All of the 3-4-6 knive blades only work for grass and weeds. I've gone back to just using .105 string and saw blade.

You do know you can get a head to hold 155 string or larger, correct? Years ago, we gave up on smaller strings and today trying to get a .170 head Stihl is suppose to be coming out with. These large string machines rock!

 

[ArlyA]

This week we picked up a string head for our Stihl Kombi. Didn't get any good photos of it but will get some soon.

 

[Elvenhome21]

You do know you can get a head to hold 155 string or larger, correct? Years ago, we gave up on smaller strings and today trying to get a .170 head Stihl is suppose to be coming out with. These large string machines rock!

I've seen them but always figured they were a total pita the have to re string all the time instead of a bump head.
Are they worth it time wise. It's already annoying winding a spool of 105 every 20 min of cutting