Tractor Rebuild: 1st Step - ID

Robert_in_NY · Dec 7, 2007

Your welcome. It gives me something to do while I am sitting around the house.

Thanks also for the well wishes on my recovery. I broke my back on October 15th and for the most part I think I am doing quite well. I am able to do just about everything I could before I was hurt except lift anything heavy and work and a couple other things.

WayneB · Dec 7, 2007

Well, this is just what you might end up with: Look at the 1953 SC W/F

TractorLinks.com - Antique Tractor Links Directory

Now here is a bunch of old tractor albums full of wonderful pictures

PictureTrail

Case World

TractorLinks.com - Antique Tractor Links Directory

cjcocn · Dec 8, 2007

WayneB

Thanks for the links. The look of that '53 SC is my ultimate goal.

It will get light out here within the hour, so I am getting ready to head out there with my air compressor and pump up the flat tire. After that I will hook it up to the truck and see if I can tow it home.

How do I get this thing in neutral so that I can tow it?

Thanks

joe48 · Dec 8, 2007

CJ
I worked for a Case dealer when I was a teenager in the sixties. I had to do everything from pushing a broom in the shop to manning the parts counter when no one else was around.
The other guys have given you lots of good info and places to look for help, parts etc. There are lots of parts still available for those models, just have to track them down thru clubs and specialists, also magazines like Antique Tractor or Aged Iron are good spots for that.
Your tractor is an 'S" standard model, the serial no. will give you year and model, when you get a cross reference.
Those machines were heavy built rugged and simple. Couple of things to look for is pull the inspection covers off trans and rear end and look at the condition of the gears and especially the rear chain drive sprockets. The amount of wear on the sprocket teeth will give a good indication of hours and how hard tractor was used. Compare the wear side of tooth to the slack side which should be like new so you can judge by the cupping on the wear side what percentage of life is used up. Hope you understand my explanation.
If your lucky you might not have to do anything except change trans oil.
The engines in these things were built like tanks, so unless they got water in them you may not need to do too much there
I could tell by the picture it has a WICO magneto on it, don't even fool around just buy a rebuilt one and new wires plugs etc. That was one thing we constantly rebuilt in the shop were magnetos. Also the carb is probably a MARVEL-SCHEBLER, a dinosauer by todays standards but very rugged, either rebuild it or better buy a reman, you'll have less troubles. Good Luck, Joe

Robert_in_NY · Dec 8, 2007

The gear shift lever should have a neutral in it, it appears the lever is up so push it down and if it can slide side to side it should be in neutral. If not, you have a Ford so yank that thing home

joe48 · Dec 8, 2007

CJ
I forgot the trans in that is a 4 speed , I think the pattern is a standard H ,but don'remember for sure. Like robert said should be able to find nuetral and gear posistions by just rowing lever around. Also if I remember the shift pattern is cast into the floor plate near the shifter. Joe

cjcocn · Dec 8, 2007

Well, it took a couple of tries, but it's home!

The first time I went out there was a bust as the air compressor couplers froze up by the time I got out there. I had to come back home and warm the air compressor motor back up before I could replace the air that I released trying to get the frozen couplers to work.

For the second trip out there I had the hose and tire inflater already hooked up. When I got out there, first thing I did was pump some air into the flat tire. The rubber is cracked in some places, but it held air.

I couldn't figure out where neutral was. I tried different configurations, but each time I tried to tow the tractor the rear wheels wouldn't turn. I don't know if it was the cold, some rust inside the gear case, or a combination of both. Finally I did what Robert suggested and just yanked it out of there and pulled it home.

The ditch was fun and the Case ended up making a new trail through the cattails as I had to put a few extra tow straps on for a while so I could cross the ditch with my truck before the straps tightened up. It didn't want to climb the ditch with that length of tow strap (60') so I took two off and was back down to one tow strap. That made the angle sharp enough so that the truck was able to make the tractor climb out of the ditch.

Now I have to see if I can make enough room in my garage so that I can drag it in there, let it warm up a bit, and start pulling covers off to see some of the internals. I figure that I can drag it to the garage door, but after that I may have to rig something up so that I can push it in without doing any damage to my truck or the tractor.

I took my camera with me, but I didn't have anyone to take pics and once I got going I didn't stop to take any pics myself. Sorry!

I am not sure how long it will take me to clear out the garage and drag the tractor in there, but once I do I will take many pics. I figure that I will have no choice then (I am bad at not taking pics when I should) since I will asking tons of questions and will need those pics to show you what I am talking about.

Thanks again for all your help and I will start a new thread once I have the tractor inside my garage.

Robert_in_NY · Dec 8, 2007

A 2.5" piece of pipe with flat stock welded on both ends (pipe only needs to be 4-5' long). Weld the flat stock so it can have holes blown thru it so you can drop a drawpin thru either end. Then pin the tractor to the truck and push it in. I hope that made sense but basically it is a simple tow/push bar. Just use a heavy enough pipe so it doesn't bend up if you put too much force on it. I will try to fashion up a drawing of what I mean as I use this all the time to push loaded hay wagons around while someone steers the tounge in the barn.

bindian · Dec 9, 2007

Robert_in_NY said:
With the information you have provided so far the only way anyone can help you is when you post a picture of post some part numbers. There are a lot of us guys that have plenty of information to help id your tractor once we get some new information. Each tractor has serial numbers in different places so it is hard to say look here or here. Do you have an idea what color the tractor and wheels are?

Good call Robert.
hugs, Brandi

BobG_in_VA · Dec 10, 2007

I've be "listening" to your thread up until now. If its as cold as I think it is where you are and that Case has been sitting out as long as it has,,,,I'm of the opinion that water has gotten into the trans case over time (and yes it will get in there) and has frozen. Hence the rear wheels won't turn when it seems to be in neutral. Once you get it under cover, find the trans drain plug, and get the old stuff out. Also let is set for a week that way. If you have a heater of some type (even a lit bucket of charcoal briquetts ) that you can put under the trans for a while will help if you have ice in there. Just my thoughts today....BobG in VA

cjcocn · Dec 10, 2007

Bob

Thanks for your input.

Right now I am determining which items to remove from the garage and take over to my hunting shed. I need to make some room in the garage as right now it is not possible to fit the tractor inside and have enough room to work.

I was thinking about the move into the garage and, even with Robert's idea on a tow bar (thanks, Robert!), those "frozen" wheels are going to make it a job.

I may fabricate some dollies to fit under each wheel so that I can just roll it in. This will also allow me to maneuver the tractor as I am working on it. I know that one can buy these dollies, but I want to make some with pneumatic high capacity casters that can handle my gravel driveway. I will be heading to the city in the next week or two and may price some out. If they are relatively inexpensive I may buy four and cut the casters off in favor of the pneumatic ones.

That seems like a long time to wait in terms of getting the ball rolling on this little project, so I am also looking around town here for some existing dollies that I can borrow long enough to get the tractor set up in the garage.

I was reading a Ford tractor book last night (planning my next one?) and was thinking that I would rather be out working on my Case. I'm thinking that if I plan it right I can have that tractor in there this week and get started on this project.

LOL .... wife's car is frozen (didn't plug it in) so I gotta go start up the diesel and drive her in to work.

Thanks all!

Robert_in_NY · Dec 10, 2007

cjcocn said:
even with Robert's idea on a tow bar (thanks, Robert!)

Thank my grandfather, it was his idea that I was able to share. His tow bar is handy as you can run a chain thru the pipe also if if you need to tow something that doesn't have a place to pin the bar to.

cjcocn said:
That seems like a long time to wait in terms of getting the ball rolling on this little project, so I am also looking around town here for some existing dollies that I can borrow long enough to get the tractor set up in the garage.

Don't worry, the tractor waited a lot longer for you to rescue it, it can wait a little longer

cjcocn said:
Thanks all!

Your welcome

bindian · Dec 10, 2007

joe48 said:
CJ
I could tell by the picture it has a WICO magneto on it, don't even fool around just buy a rebuilt one and new wires plugs etc. That was one thing we constantly rebuilt in the shop were magnetos. Also the carb is probably a MARVEL-SCHEBLER, a dinosauer by todays standards but very rugged, either rebuild it or better buy a reman, you'll have less troubles. Good Luck, Joe

Cjcocn,
Marvel-Schebler carburetors were installed on hundreds of opposed 4 cylinder aircraft engines on small airplanes. We never worked on them, just sent them out for overhaul. I am sure an aircraft place that rebuilds these carbs could rebuild yours if needed. I have found that diesel fuel or jet fuel if you have it, works great for loosening parts up that won't move, especially fronzen bolts. Just fill the cavity full and let it soak a day or two.
hugs, Brandi

cjcocn · Dec 14, 2007

Hello again!

I am heading into the city tomorrow (round trip) to get some work done on my truck.

While I am there I want to pick up some nice chunky casters so that I can build a dolly system to get my tractor into my garage (and, yes, our town is small enough so that I have to buy them in the city ... lol). After I have that accomplished I will start a new thread (with many pics) about the rebuild/restore.

My question now is, where should I start this new thread? Is it okay in this (Projects) forum? Or should I start it in the Vintage Tractor forum? ... or maybe Parts and Repairs?

It's only a 12 hour drive there and back and the work should only take a few hours. I will be leaving tomorrow morning at 03:00 so should be back by about 18:00. If I get really lucky and find some ready-made dollies I will move the tractor inside tomorrow night after I get home and will start the thread then. Hopefully I will have heard back from someone by the time I get back (I am still new here and don't know where to put the new thread).

Thanks!

Robert_in_NY · Dec 14, 2007

I think either forum would be appropiate. If the mod disagees he will move it to the appropiate place.

KYErik · Dec 14, 2007

cjcocn,

Nice find!

My main farming tractor is a 1943 Case SC (the C indicates a tricycle type front end- my avatar is an SC). They are very heavy, well built tractors. The serial number on the gray tag on right side of the "dash" will help you tell what year it was built. If the first 2 digits start with a 5 or 4, subtract 4 from it and that will be the year of manufacture. The later units started with a new series of numbers. Ex. My 1943's serial number starts with the digits 47XXXXXXXX. I am guessing that your's is a 1950 or older because of the lack of a foot clutch.

You are missing the belt pulley on the right side (the clutch lever has a brake attached that would rub against this when it is disengaged) but you could use it OK without the pulley.

The clutch is a wet type (shares oil with the crank case) and isn't too hard to adjust.

There is a conversion kit that was used to convert many (including mine) over to a distributor ignition system (I see that you still have the magneto).

The guys over at the yesterday's tractors website in the Case section will be a real benefit. Case Tractor Information - Antique Tractor Headquarters I have the original owner's manual (my great grandpa bought the tractor), but no parts or service manuals.

As others have said, the shift pattern is an H pattern, the gear locations are cast into the metal right around where the shifter goes down into the transmission.

Its nice to see that someone put a can on the exhaust manifold- hopefully that has been there since the day it was parked

To be honest, old Case tractors don't hold their value as much as other brands- but they are dependable and are fairly easy to work on.

I even added a hydraulic pump and three point hitch to mine. Unfortunately the older models did not have live PTO.

cjcocn · Dec 14, 2007

KYErik said:
cjcocn,

Nice find!

My main farming tractor is a 1943 SC (the C indicates a tricycle type front end- my avatar is an SC). They are very heavy, well built tractors. The serial number on the right side will help you tell what year it was built. If the first 2 digits start with a 5 or 4, subtract 4 from it and that will be the year of manufacture. The later units started with a new series of numbers. Ex. My 1943's serial number starts with the digits 47XXXXXXXX. I am guessing that your's is a 1951 or older because of the lack of a foot clutch.

You are missing the belt pulley on the right side (the clutch lever has a brake attached that would rub against this when it is disengaged) but you could use it OK without the pulley.

The clutch is a wet type (shares oil with the crank case) and isn't too hard to adjust.

There is a conversion kit that was used to convert many (including mine) over to a distributor ignition system (I see that you still have the magneto).

The guys over at the yesterday's tractors website in the Case section will be a real benefit. Case Tractor Information - Antique Tractor Headquarters I have the original owner's manual (my great grandpa bought the tractor), but no parts or service manuals.

As others have said, the shift pattern is an H pattern, the gear locations are cast into the metal right around where the shifter goes down into the transmission.

Its nice to see that someone put a can on the exhaust manifold- hopefully that has been there since the day it was parked

To be honest, old Case tractors don't hold their value as much as other brands- but they are dependable and are fairly easy to work on.

I even added a hydraulic pump and three point hitch to mine. Unfortunately the older models did not have live PTO.

Erik

You are correct about the age of the tractor (1950 is the year).

I was actually looking at the pulley by the clutch lever. I thought that something may be missing (it kind of looks like there was a belt there the way it is worn), but having zero knowledge about tractors I hadn't a clue as to what I was looking at or what was missing.

The conversion to 12V is probably something that I will do as well. I have gathered some info on it, including a few "how-to" write-ups that I will use in conjunction with my many questions that I will surely (continue to) have while undertaking this project.

The can ... LOL ... yep, it looks like it has been there for a while and I am not surprised to see it on there. Back when I was a younger fella someone told me about that and I still use one on my tiller since it sits beside my wife's garden shed during the summer. I have seen quite a few of those used locally for that same purpose.

As for its value ... well, I wondered about that since after all it was just left in a field, but I think that it will have a lot of value to me since it will be something that I will put my time and effort into, and it will also teach me a lot while I am doing it. I saw a few listed somewhere for under $1000 and it will surely cost me more than that to get this one up and running, but I have a hunch that it will be one of my most valuable (to me) tractors.

I am pretty excited about getting this project underway and while the learning aspect of it is a major factor, so too is the realization that when I am done I can climb aboard, start it up, and take it for a drive!

Thanks for the info!

KYErik · Dec 14, 2007

The clutch brake hitting the belt pulley does helps to get into gear from neutral a little faster (if the trans is spinning), but you can either find one or learn to work around it.

An FYI tip on the 12 volt conversion- unless you are going to show it, save yourself some money and just put a 12 volt car alternator on it and a 12 volt battery. Lots of folks say to have the starter rewound for 12 volts, but my tractor's original 6 volt starter has been running off 12 volts for the past 30 years.

Good luck- you might go ahead and pour a little diesel down the spark plug holes to help loosen things up. That hole in the front center "bumper" area should lead straight to the crankshaft pulley which will likely have grooves in it for using a crank to start it- at least that is the case with my '43.

The lever just to the right of the gearshift is what engages/disengages the PTO. Pushed in is "PTO off" pulled out is "PTO on". You'll have to pull in the clutch lever and wait for the transmission gears to stop spinning before you can engauge it though- but then again, I am getting pretty far ahead of your repairs to be telling you how to use the PTO... ha....