If they use the Doosan engine then it's the same as the newer Kioti PX series.
They previously used Perkins but switched to Doosan a few years ago.
Comparison T1054 Any Issues??
- Thread starter SplitHoof
- Start date
They previously used Perkins but switched to Doosan a few years ago.
DrericDO
Member
I just purchased the same tractor used.2019 version. So far so good. Have the same harmonic you are talking about.
As far as the fuel prime haven’t experienced it but the TYM dealer said to frequently “drain the water” out of the fuel filter sediment bowl. Says the tractor likes to accumulate h2o?
one major thing I am noticing is it has quite the lag time when shifting forward or reverse and it will lurch/jerk into gear. Don’t know if anyone else has that problem and if so how do you fix it? I know on my RX 7320 Kioti there was a feature where you could adjust speed for which it shifted forward or reverse with the power shifter but I’m not finding that feature on this tractor.
I also don’t have very smooth shifting on my range selector or in my gear speeds.
As far as features go I would definitely give it an A. The air conditioning system I would definitely give it an A+. Gets super cold. Hydraulics maybe a B. The detent hydraulic is very finicky. As for power probably a B+. Fuel efficiency and A+… Hi bailed 124 bales on less than a half a tank of gas on hilly terrain with the AC on. As far as the transmission goes I would definitely give it a D. Very jerky when going in forward or reverse with the power reverser/shifter. Very difficult gear shifter. Very difficult getting it into the different ranges from high/low/medium/creeper. Three point system probably a B-. There are lots of little sensors that control the position of the three-point since it is an electronic three-point system. If any of those sensors get knocked off or wires get disconnected the whole three point system will shut down. Also, the sensors that pick up whether you are going forward or reverse or making a sharp turn are very finicky so the “up when back” and “up with sharp turn” features don’t always work correctly….. but, when everything is working correctly the electronic three point system is amazing.
TimberFarm
Platinum Member
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- John Deere 3203, Jinma 354 LE, LS MT573
You didn't by any chance get that at auction within the past month+/-?
DrericDO
Member
Yes….and no. I bought it a month ago from the guy who bought it at auction. Came from the Fort Smith , AR area and serviced at Bush Tractor. Picked it up in Perry,OK and brought it to TX.
The transmission issue is getting worse. Drained all the hydraulic fluid and changed the filters . Didn’t do anything. TYM says the tractor is still under power train warranty and recommends taking it to a TYM dealer. Problem is no local dealers. Nearest dealer that will work on this big boy is 3 hrs away. Uggg. What a Pain in the a$& !
I’ve called several TYM mechanics as well as Mahindra folks and everyone says something different. One says replace the hydraulic pump…other says replace the main hydraulic sub valve…the other says it’s a sub valve solenoid issue…another says it’s a clogged filter screen (btw…there ain’t no inline filter screen on the main hydraulics that I could find!)..another says it’s a bad clutch pack and needs a split! Don’t know what to do. Any advice is appreciated !
TimberFarm
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2022
- Messages
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- Tractor
- John Deere 3203, Jinma 354 LE, LS MT573
I put in a couple bids on that tractor. It was on AuctionTime.
The more I looked at the video, I saw the hard shift when the guy put in gear and decided to stop bidding.
The more I looked at the video, I saw the hard shift when the guy put in gear and decided to stop bidding.
jigs_n_fixtures
Platinum Member
On my 233, and the 273, the filter screen is a metal screen, in the transmission, filters The hydraulic fluid, before it enters the suction line to the pump.. To get at it, you have to pull off the left rear wheel.
Just follow the suction line back to the tranny, and you should find it, if there is one..
DrericDO
Member
Nice eye! I didn’t pick that up! Honestly, I had driven another TYM 1104 as well as a Mahindra mForce and they were all difficult to shift so I figured “maybe that was normal “? My Workmaster 75 shifts like butter and has the power shifter. Unfortunately this tractor ain’t the same. But, to get a 3 year old 105hp cab tractor for $34k I figured it was a good gamble. Only using it to bale and cut and doing a little plowing so not too concerned.
DrericDO
Member
I’ll have to see if mine is the same.
DrericDO
Member
The more I think about this problem the more I’m leaning towards this being a problem with the solenoid accuated directional control valve situated on the main sub valve . Wondering if I removed the valve and cleaned it if that would help? Not sure what that process would look like though??? The valve controls the flow of hydraulic fluid which then pushes pins that then somehow moves the gears that places it in the forward position. Possible one of those pins is fouled up too?
jigs_n_fixtures
Platinum Member
Sounds like a complex project. You don’t know how often previous owners did things like fluid changes, or changed filters. And, if yours is hidden like mine, and a royal pain to get out and clean, they may have never done it.
I’d find the inlet filter and check it out first. It would account for the problem, and is one of the easiest things to remedy. First rule of trouble shooting is to look at teh easiest to do, and least expensive things to solve first.
When my Dad was in his decline, Mom’s Volvo started overheating, at least that is what the gauge said, and she ran out of gas a few times. I told Dad that there was a voltage regulator box behind the fuse panel. And, that if it went bad, it sent 12-volts to teh gauges, instead of 9-volts, and the gauges would read high. they went out frequently enough, and had been used by Volvo for a couple of decades at the time. I was near their place for a Doctors appointment so I swing by to say hi.
Dad had the radiator out of the car, and had dropped it off to be rodded out and rebuilt. I called Mom later in the week to see how things were going, and she said that Dad had the car back together, and it was still overheating. I told her that maybe it has an air block or something, and I’d come out that weekend and see if I could figure it out.
I went to the Volvo Dealer and bought the voltage regulator for under $20. I went out to their place on Sunday, arriving when they were at church, and put in the new relay. Then put a nice pork roast in the oven, and watched football until they got home.
After Lunch we went out and checked on Moms car. I burped the radiator hoses, and we took it for a test drive, and it didn’t overheat. I didn’t want to embarrass Dad, and tell him he wasted a couple hundred bucks. So, i never mentioned teh new regulator.
Lesson learned from Dad, Which he forgot as his age advanced, was to do teh simple stuff first. If you pull out the pre filter for the hydraulic system and it is in great shape, you have eliminated that problem. On T233, you have to drain teh hydraulic fluid, because the filter and pump inlet are at the low point, and all the fluid is coming out if you pull the filter. But you can catch the fluid if it is relatively new, and reuse it.
I’d find the inlet filter and check it out first. It would account for the problem, and is one of the easiest things to remedy. First rule of trouble shooting is to look at teh easiest to do, and least expensive things to solve first.
When my Dad was in his decline, Mom’s Volvo started overheating, at least that is what the gauge said, and she ran out of gas a few times. I told Dad that there was a voltage regulator box behind the fuse panel. And, that if it went bad, it sent 12-volts to teh gauges, instead of 9-volts, and the gauges would read high. they went out frequently enough, and had been used by Volvo for a couple of decades at the time. I was near their place for a Doctors appointment so I swing by to say hi.
Dad had the radiator out of the car, and had dropped it off to be rodded out and rebuilt. I called Mom later in the week to see how things were going, and she said that Dad had the car back together, and it was still overheating. I told her that maybe it has an air block or something, and I’d come out that weekend and see if I could figure it out.
I went to the Volvo Dealer and bought the voltage regulator for under $20. I went out to their place on Sunday, arriving when they were at church, and put in the new relay. Then put a nice pork roast in the oven, and watched football until they got home.
After Lunch we went out and checked on Moms car. I burped the radiator hoses, and we took it for a test drive, and it didn’t overheat. I didn’t want to embarrass Dad, and tell him he wasted a couple hundred bucks. So, i never mentioned teh new regulator.
Lesson learned from Dad, Which he forgot as his age advanced, was to do teh simple stuff first. If you pull out the pre filter for the hydraulic system and it is in great shape, you have eliminated that problem. On T233, you have to drain teh hydraulic fluid, because the filter and pump inlet are at the low point, and all the fluid is coming out if you pull the filter. But you can catch the fluid if it is relatively new, and reuse it.