Snow Equipment Buying/Pricing Snowblower gearbox

[dslanec]

Each auger has its own shear bolt' Remove and pull the augers off one side at a time. Then you can split the gear box and pull out the broken pto shaft end. The gear box has one side that is a cover. Try the auger on that side first as perhaps you have enough room to play.

Sorry I just don't understand. I removed the shear bolts.but if I'm trying to remove the whole auger shaft why do I need to do that? Should the whole auger pull out of the gear box? Or Does just the auger slide off and a long shaft stays? At the end of each auger there is a bearing that prevents the auger from sliding off. It is what bolts to the blower side wall. Am I supposed to remove that?
Thank you for bearing with me.

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[snonut]

The gearbox has a stub shaft coming out of it. Once the shear bolts are removed, the augers are supposed to slide off of the stub. Maybe they need a little persuasion (heat)?

 

[leonz]

Here is where I am. How do I separate the auger from the gear box???

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OKKKKK


NOW: the shaft is a one piece animal from worm gear back to
the PTO shaft carrier bearing? so that is clear to me now I think.

For some reason the shaft sheared directly behind the worm
gear in side the gear case.

This certainly reeks of Swamp Ape Stink because it takes huge
amount of energy to break a piece of round stock normally.
let alone friction welding a shaft assembly.

Its entirely possible to have sheared it off when you backed into the pile
if it was frozen solid as the augers would have stalled at the same time
due to the spur gear being stopped dead and the shear bolts not breaking.

The shear pins are your first line of defense with a snow caster and the only
thing that protects a worm gear driven snow caster like your and mine and
any walk behind unit.

The entire shaft has to be removed and then replaced meaning the worm to spur gear gearbox has
to be split and the entire shaft replaced.
new seals installed as well.


I guess you will have to decide if its worth fooling with and dealing with it.

I cringe every time I use mine as the worm drive gearbox is very expensive for an
RAD excuse for a snow caster.

The greater majority of the newer snow casters do not have the worm gear
driven cross augers that I know of.

Even a new four footer would work well for your cub.

The allied farm king snow casters always seemed pretty reasonable.
Send Ken Sweet a PM through the forum here and ask if he has any snow blowers
left to sell as he was selling them out to get them out of his inventory as he has
much better weather in Kentucky than most.

He ships right from his warehouses too.


I am not trying to spend your money but you have pig in poke there. I am sorry this happened to you.

 

[aczlan]

It looks like the part that broke is Kubota part 70060-00831 which has been superceded by 70060-04038 which is available for $119 from Messicks: Kubota SHAFT, INPUT Part #70060-04038
To get the exploded parts diagram with part numbers, visit Kubota Tractor Corporation - Parts List with a browser other than Firefox, enter bl2563 for your model and click the "Open" link in the far left column.


Aaron Z

 

[dslanec]

Well I will continue with the tear down Tommorow after work. If all ends up going well I'll have a working blower for about $150. If it doesn't go well I'll have the experience of trying and maybe next year I'll get a new one. Thank you for the advice everyone.

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[leonz]

Well I will continue with the tear down Tommorow after work.
If all ends up going well I'll have a working blower for about $150.
If it doesn't go well I'll have the experience of trying and maybe next year I'll
get a new one. Thank you for the advice everyone.

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For what its worth you will have to decide if you really want to just install the
shaft as you will not know if the gear is bad and you may have to replace it
and the bearings too so keep that in mind.

If there are metal chips in the oil etc the bearings are not well just be sure to
use a magnet to see how much metal is in the oil.

 

[PILOON]

At $130. for that short shaft that (from memory) is nothing but about 16" of 1 1/8' shafting with 2 ea 3/8" holes and a keyway cut at ends I'd be looking at a local small machine shop.

 

[rbargeron]

At $130. for that short shaft that (from memory) is nothing but about 16" of 1 1/8' shafting with 2 ea 3/8" holes and a keyway cut at ends I'd be looking at a local small machine shop.

The new OEM shaft price may not be unreasonable - looking at the parts drawing posted above by Aaron Z, the shaft has three keyways (2 straight, one Woodruff), a snap ring groove, two centered holes for roll pins and a change in diameter for the last few inches. At the break it looks like hardened material - possibly hardened after machining. A good shop can certainly make a duplicate, but it may not be much cheaper. A new OEM shaft may be quicker to get too.

 

[aczlan]

The new OEM shaft price may not be unreasonable - looking at the parts drawing posted above by Aaron Z, the shaft has three keyways (2 straight, one Woodruff), a snap ring groove, two centered holes for roll pins and a change in diameter for the last few inches. At the break it looks like hardened material - possibly hardened after machining. A good shop can certainly make a duplicate, but it may not be much cheaper. A new OEM shaft may be quicker to get too.

I agree that the OEM price is reasonable. I think that what you are calling two straight keyways are grease passages so that you can grease the fan and PTO shaft (to allow it to spread the grease across the width of area covered by the fan or the PTO shaft) and the holes are for shearbolts.

Aaron Z

 

[rrrkkk]

Interesting thread knowledge to keep on file

 

[rbargeron]

I agree that the OEM price is reasonable. I think that what you are calling two straight keyways are grease passages so that you can grease the fan and PTO shaft (to allow it to spread the grease across the width of area covered by the fan or the PTO shaft) and the holes are for shearbolts.Aaron Z

The parts diagrams at the Kub site for the 2563 blower show the impeller is located by a pin or bolt and is driven by a key. The pto yoke is also key driven. No grease passages on these products, fan is a static fit and bearing at the pto end is sealed.

 

[aczlan]

The parts diagrams at the Kub site for the 2563 blower show the impeller is located by a pin or bolt and is driven by a key. The pto yoke is also key driven. No grease passages on these products, fan is a static fit and bearing at the pto end is sealed.

So there is no shear protection for the fan?
It looks to me like the fan is a snug fit and then it is powered through the fan adapter (shown here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...52988-snowblower-gearbox-image-3689645411-jpg )

Aaron Z

 

[dslanec]

It looks like the part that broke is Kubota part 70060-00831 which has been superceded by 70060-04038 which is available for $119 from Messicks: Kubota SHAFT, INPUT Part #70060-04038 To get the exploded parts diagram with part numbers, visit Kubota Tractor Corporation - Parts List with a browser other than Firefox, enter bl2563 for your model and click the "Open" link in the far left column. <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/snow-removal/405820-snowblower-gearbox-blowerpage2-png"/> <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/snow-removal/405821-snowblower-gearbox-blowerpage1-png"/> Aaron Z

I just got back from dealer and got the shaft. The reason the part number changed was because of the exact problem I have. The new shaft stays thicker longer at the auger end. Therefor I had to also get a new bearing that goes over the shaft that is 1 1/4 inches. The old bearing was only 1". I also got all new seals. The prices are crazy for this stuff. I needed 3 seals and they were $19.00 EACH!!! The bearing was $40.00!! How do they get away with these prices???? The only benefit is the dealer is 2 miles from my house.

Unfortunately I blew out my back yesterday and am unable to work on it today. It'll probably be Sunday until I get back to it. I'll let everyone know how it turns out.

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[aczlan]

I just got back from dealer and got the shaft. The reason the part number changed was because of the exact problem I have. The new shaft stays thicker longer at the auger end. Therefor I had to also get a new bearing that goes over the shaft that is 1 1/4 inches. The old bearing was only 1". I also got all new seals. The prices are crazy for this stuff. I needed 3 seals and they were $19.00 EACH!!! The bearing was $40.00!! How do they get away with these prices???? The only benefit is the dealer is 2 miles from my house.

Unfortunately I blew out my back yesterday and am unable to work on it today. It'll probably be Sunday until I get back to it. I'll let everyone know how it turns out.

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If you have a good Napa or bearing supply house nearby, they may be able to cross reference them for less, but that might not be worth the hassle.

Aaron Z

 

[rbargeron]

So there is no shear protection for the fan?
It looks to me like the fan is a snug fit and then it is powered through the fan adapter (shown here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...52988-snowblower-gearbox-image-3689645411-jpg )Aaron Z

I agree - the fan is protected by a shear bolt in the fan adapter. But the adapter's static half is keyed to the shaft. See Kub's B/L2563 Panel 0010000 the key is 70060-00814. The other half of the adapter has an oilite bronze bushing in it for when the shearbolt breaks.

 

[dslanec]

Well I got the augers off. The shaft that is left is a lot longer than I expected?here is a pic. Why in the parts breakdown does it show it in 3 pieces?
My next move is unbolt the cover and start taking all the guts out so I can remove the old broken shaft correct? This will be the part that I hope I don't screw anything up.in order to change all 3 seals everything has to be removed I assume. At least I have a service manual with the pics. I will be attempting this Sunday afternoon when I get home from work. If I am missing anything let me know. Thanks all

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[aczlan]

I am pretty sure they intended it to be seen as one shaft (hence the "serrated" edges of the sections).

Aaron Z

 

[PILOON]

Sure thing, #13 is that one long shaft all one piece.(like 48/49" on a 48" blower)
Next you will need to dismantle the fan shaft in order to replace that.
Fan itself is easy, undo the fan sheer bolt and pull fan off.
On the tractor side, remove the bolt that holds U joint as well as a setscrew and yank the PTO shaft away.
Next will be 3 or 4 bolts that hold the bearing in place.
Probably the most difficult will be that flange that mates to the blower fan. Again a bolt and a key.

When you have the fan removed and 'in hand' you will notice 3 legs that support the 3 fan blades.
I have noticed that those legs (on mine) simply rotted to the point that they were crumpled (like compressed) from hard work and that my blades were twisted making for poor propulsion. I beat mine straight and replaced the legs or props with tougher ones which resulted in much better performance.
I simply did my best to make all three 'legs' as even as possible and welded in place.
Now I always blow at that 700 or so RPM and never noticed any vibration. (like 6 yrs or so now)
Were I to again need to dismantle I would also close up the gap between the blades and the fan drum.
If you have welding I'd close up the gap or at worst drill and add plastic or rubber flaps.

 

[dslanec]

Sure thing, #13 is that one long shaft all one piece.(like 48/49" on a 48" blower) Next you will need to dismantle the fan shaft in order to replace that. Fan itself is easy, undo the fan sheer bolt and pull fan off. On the tractor side, remove the bolt that holds U joint as well as a setscrew and yank the PTO shaft away. Next will be 3 or 4 bolts that hold the bearing in place. Probably the most difficult will be that flange that mates to the blower fan. Again a bolt and a key. When you have the fan removed and 'in hand' you will notice 3 legs that support the 3 fan blades. I have noticed that those legs (on mine) simply rotted to the point that they were crumpled (like compressed) from hard work and that my blades were twisted making for poor propulsion. I beat mine straight and replaced the legs or props with tougher ones which resulted in much better performance. I simply did my best to make all three 'legs' as even as possible and welded in place. Now I always blow at that 700 or so RPM and never noticed any vibration. (like 6 yrs or so now) Were I to again need to dismantle I would also close up the gap between the blades and the fan drum. If you have welding I'd close up the gap or at worst drill and add plastic or rubber flaps.

Thank you very much for the help and advice. I have heard and seen kits that close the gap between fan and drum. I have some thick rubber at work I might bolt to the end of blades. If I run into any other questions during repair(and I'm sure I will) I will be sure and ask.

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[aczlan]

I have heard and seen kits that close the gap between fan and drum. I have some thick rubber at work I might bolt to the end of blades.

Just make sure they are all the same size, have holes in the same place and your fan has its holes in the same place. Otherwise your fan could end up out of balance.

Aaron Z