Snow Attachments Snow PUMP

/ Snow PUMP
  • Thread Starter
#81  
You don't need maximum horsepower to move the truck you only need it to run the blower. So that means any automatic will do the job. You're not going back and forth so you don't need to worry about overheating the trans oil. All you need to do is keep the rpms up enough so that the torque convertor isn't in stall. Since you need rpm's for the snowblower the torque convertor stalling isn't an issue. Just don't run the snow blower off of the transmission. Run it off of a pulley on the engine. Preferably off of the rear of the engine.

A well built cummins will shred a 205 transfer case as will a built Chev 350 for that matter. You're better off with a 241 or a 271. But again that isn't going to be an issue unless you come to a dead stop at full throttle. Ford 271's can be economically modified to fit onto the rear of a Dodge standard or automatic. Also any of these three transfer cases can be made to drop to either side so that isn't an issue either.

The ability to drop the side-shaft to either side is a good thing to know, I'm bookmarking all of them tx-cases. See my answer to bigdeano also. As for the truck's own power on 4x4 with studs and chains I don't need 500 horses nor would I feel at ease at all with just a 4bt. There have been and will be times when all 4 need to spin in some ****-or-bust situation. I've seen such situations with the 426 and I'm sure I'll see some more with a truck.
 
/ Snow PUMP #82  
After doing some reading, I see the newer xfer cases like the 271 are a lot stronger than the 205. I haven't kept up with the newer stuff.
 
/ Snow PUMP #83  
The OP is going to put the Cummins in the bed of the pickup hooked to the transmission and transfer case. Power for the blower will be taken from the transfer case output to use the gear reduction for proper speed of the blower impeller.

The op is already knowledgeable on using gilmer belts from his present setup. If it was me putting a Cummins in the back I wouldn't even bother with a transmission/transfer case setup. Transfer cases are not overbuilt and if you're going to run full hp through then the I think a multi v-belt or a gilmer belt setup would be the way to go. The pulleys and belts for either setup are readily available. Seeing as this motor is already from a manual then even a clutch wouldn't be out of the question.

Edited to add: Then the direction of rotation isn't a problem then either as the motor can be mounted either way to accommodate either clockwise or counterclockwise rotation.
 
/ Snow PUMP #84  
I would put the engine on the blower and design some kind of hydraulically (or air or electric actuators) operated caster lift (similar to pull behind tractor implements) used just for sharp turns and transportation when not blowing snow. It will also save space in the garage, maintenance and expense of extra vehicle. Not speaking about complication with the transmission of the power from the track bed to the blower.
 
/ Snow PUMP #85  
The op is already knowledgeable on using gilmer belts from his present setup. If it was me putting a Cummins in the back I wouldn't even bother with a transmission/transfer case setup. Transfer cases are not overbuilt and if you're going to run full hp through then the I think a multi v-belt or a gilmer belt setup would be the way to go. The pulleys and belts for either setup are readily available. Seeing as this motor is already from a manual then even a clutch wouldn't be out of the question.

Edited to add: Then the direction of rotation isn't a problem then either as the motor can be mounted either way to accommodate either clockwise or counterclockwise rotation.

As soon as he started talking about transmissions and transfer cases, I was wondering about that myself. Why even use a transmission? I was thinking about side loads on the crankshaft, but the engine could drive a shaft with a coupler and the shaft could be supported by 2 pillow block bearings with the gilmer pulley in the middle.

We had a discussion a few posts ago about higher rpm transferring more power through a smaller shaft. What is the sweet spot on that cummins, 2000 rpm? What is the target rpm to serve the blower? Use 1 to 1 back at the engine and your step down in rpm would be up front?

As long as the blower doesn't freeze up with ice, the starter should be able to turn the engine and the blower to start the engine correct?
 
/ Snow PUMP #88  
As soon as he started talking about transmissions and transfer cases, I was wondering about that myself. Why even use a transmission? I was thinking about side loads on the crankshaft, but the engine could drive a shaft with a coupler and the shaft could be supported by 2 pillow block bearings with the gilmer pulley in the middle.

We had a discussion a few posts ago about higher rpm transferring more power through a smaller shaft. What is the sweet spot on that cummins, 2000 rpm? What is the target rpm to serve the blower? Use 1 to 1 back at the engine and your step down in rpm would be up front?

As long as the blower doesn't freeze up with ice, the starter should be able to turn the engine and the blower to start the engine correct?

I don't think you would need to be too concerned about side loads though I could be wrong. (again) :) I know engines can take more of a side load that you would think but a belt might be too much. A clutch is not hard to set up if you have the bell housing. Then a shaft with clutch splines and bearings isn't hard to set up. One bearing goes into the transmission alignment hole and the other is set up on a pillow with the pulley in between.

I agree that the starter would be able to start the engine with everything turning but if you ever get anything into the blower it's nice to be able to stop everything in a hurry. Also as it happens out here the neighbors stop by once in a while and it's nice to be able to bs without the whole machine running and you don't have to shut down the engine.
 
/ Snow PUMP #89  
The four cylinder Duetz engines are easily paired with Rockford manual clutches.
The Rockford clutches have individual replaceable clutch plates AND they are also
easy to adjust for clutch pad wear.

The rock ford clutches are also very easy to use and add V belt pulleys to power
attachments like a snow caster.
 
/ Snow PUMP #90  
As I understand it, the OP wants the transmission so he can vary the impeller RPM to suit varying snow conditions while keeping the engine at it's max HP RPM. It's probably a good idea. He has quite a bit of experience with the rig he has now and knows what he needs.
 
/ Snow PUMP #91  
As I understand it, the OP wants the transmission so he can vary the impeller RPM to suit varying snow conditions while keeping the engine at it's max HP RPM. It's probably a good idea. He has quite a bit of experience with the rig he has now and knows what he needs.
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That is never a good idea because the impeller needs to be filled fully to work well and to eject the snow sufficiently fast to continue to work otherwise the chute will plug.
 
/ Snow PUMP #92  
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That is never a good idea because the impeller needs to be filled fully to work well and to eject the snow sufficiently fast to continue to work otherwise the chute will plug.
For once we agree. I would just run the snowblower wide open or close to it the whole time. It cleans things up better that way.

Aaron Z
 
/ Snow PUMP #93  
But what is wide open? 500 RPM, 1000 RPM on impeller? With the transmission he could find the best speed. Is the best speed the same for powder snow as for heavy wet snow? I don't know as I have zero snow blower experience. He can find the best speed and leave it there if he wants to.
 
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/ Snow PUMP #94  
But what is wide open? 500 RPM, 1000 RPM on impeller? With the transmission he could find the best speed. Is the best speed the same for powder snow as for heavy wet snow? I don't know as I have zero snow blower experience. He can find the best speed and leave it there if he wants to.

He should already know the rpm he needs if he uses a setup similar to what he has now I would think. I agree also that ground speed should be varied, and just leave the blower wide open.

It would be nice to have a blower disconnect, but that's more complication also. I would definitely put a shear pin somewhere though if it was direct drive.
 
/ Snow PUMP #95  
To be honest, I agree with the no transmission. If the engines sweet spot is 2000rpm, blower sweet spot is the 1000rpm. Why not do a simple 2:1 ratio to get that, if you need more rpms, give the engine more throttle.


But if you used a transmision wouldn't you need a manual to keep it in gear cause a automatic in OD or D would keep shifting gears every time you get a load. Just like towing a trailer or going up hill. They downshift when they need more torque to do the job. Then your losing rpms which he wants. Only way to solve then would be to put it in 1st or 2nd. But on top of that wouldn't you also need some sort of disk or similar brake system to mimic how you would stop a truck and shift or how you have to have the brake on to shift out of park?? Also don't you lose some power with a automatic??

I think if a transmission was used i would go with a manual. A few needed linkages, then you can solect whatever gear you wanted.

Also there better be a good few shear bolts or slip clutches incase stuff goes south so you don't create a death trap
 
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/ Snow PUMP #96  
Just saw this on the local facebook market place. Figured it would be a good vision for what your doing. Unfortunately the tbn app wont let me post screenshots but heres the link

Log into Facebook | Facebook
 
/ Snow PUMP #98  
/ Snow PUMP #100  
Not a very impressive test. Light powder snow, the blower auger is not even full. Shove it into a heavy wet snow bank about 12-16 inches and let's see what it will do.
I know its not very impressive,, but its at least something to help out the OP. Something is better then nothing
 

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