Snow Attachments Snow PUMP

[fitterski]

RQV governs the engine to where you set the throttle. In other word if you set the throttle for the engine to run at 1500 rpm the governor will attempt to keep the engine rpms at that speed within the limits of engine power. The RSV type governor which is what you have on the automotive motor governs idle and full throttle. In between is governed by the throttle pedal in the cab of the vehicle. So if your blowing snow at 1500 rpm and run into a heavier load the motor will slow down because the governor isn't reacting to the load. Conversely if the load lightens the engine rpms will increase. Whereas with an RQV style governor the injection pump will automatically adjust the throttle to try to keep the engine at 1500 rpm. Believe me you will be a lot happier with an RQV style governor.

I suppose the RSV type became necessary with the onset of digital controls as protection against the wire monkey. There are 'fuel plate' kits for raising the max rpm but they're another story. On my Perkins and the Deutz engines these stops are just screws, as they have been for almost two centuries on every form of engine. That RQV type could be useful but here again I will possibly want to use the fan itself as rpm reference. It's something to keep in mind for sure, seeing that with this Cummins I might just have enough power on tap not to have to use all of it all the time.

 

[pmsmechanic]

RSV has been around for years in stationary equipment like generators and agricultural equipment. It had nothing to do with electronics. Generators have widely varying loads as do tractors and combines.

 

[franklin2]

RSV has been around for years in stationary equipment like generators and agricultural equipment. It had nothing to do with electronics. Generators have widely varying loads as do tractors and combines.

Little push mowers have governors. When they work right, you don't even realize they are there. Only when they don't work or you don't have one is when you realize how important they are. When you hit tall grass with a push mower and hear the engine starting to "talk" a little bit under the load, that is the governor opening up the throttle automatically to keep the rpms the same. Realize with the mower sitting there not cutting grass, the engine may be turning 3600 rpm, but the carb is only open about 1/4.

 

[fitterski]

I know about them too, my Club-Cadet has it. What I didn't know about was what's on the truck engines, never having thought of low-idle and red-line as being governor related.

 

[fitterski]

It's still on, just not very active at the moment. Still working on an engine stand, still haven't started it up, everything that could go wrong is going wrong, but I gave the Jimmy to one of my sons so that dilemma is toast

Later

 

[fitterski]

Finally tried starting the engine, it loos like a rebuild, won't even fire with ether, the compression must be very low and I have nothing to test it with. Maybe I'll borrow one but it don't look good. Not to complain since this was a likely outcome given the price. Meanwhile, IF a rebuild takes up my time this summer then for the 17/18 season I'll just re-engine the existing rig and leave the truck platform swap for 2018/19. Looking at the power curves and keeping the existing 2.5:1 gearing I should be ok to operate in the 1500-2100 range without a governor. Consideing that a lot more will be on tap, I should also be able to size it all up for any subsequent mods/configs.

 

[fitterski]

Opened the engine, not to bad at all, the cylinders were dry like the engine had not run for ages but provisional measurements are in the acceptable range so a rebore may not be required (maybe some kind of refinishing and then re honing). The crosshatch is quite visible in may places, I never built an engine that didn't need a +20 or more rebore. Tomorrow I plan to look at the pistons and bearings. I still don't know why it would not fire.

Another peculiarity is that watching videos about this engine and the p7100 pump I was under the impression that the pump lock-tongue would be visible at the proper timing BTDC, in this case 12.5 degrees . So I set the engine to TDC and backed off 12.5 degrees expecting to then see lock-tongue, but never did. Finally saw it if I did NOT back the engine off at all i.e. it's visible ALSO at exactly TDC. I'm a little confused, could it be that someone had improperly installed the pump, which then resulted in realy poor performance or total inoperabilty, and ultimately engine condemnation explaining that it hadn't run for maybe a couple of years?

I'm going to get these readings validataed in a machine shop while also getting the block hot-tanked. No rebore would mean (maybe) no new pistons and no boring (around here these two alone go for about $1800cdn).

 

[fitterski]

Opened the engine... readings validataed in a machine shop while also getting the block hot-tanked. No rebore would mean (maybe) no new pistons and no boring (around here these two alone go for about $1800cdn).

View attachment 514119

here's the poorly done video that threw me

pulled crank and pistons, could shave in the bright journal polish, all pistons have small scratches on lateral sides probably from soot and carbon.


Fastest Way To Set P71 P-Pump Timing on a 5.9 Cummins 12v - YouTube

what I observed during stripping is evidence or correct assembly, the pump is pre-timed to be installed at tdc, lots of remarks on video page make this very clear.

 

[fitterski]

Re: Snow PUMP [engine #2]

Just bagged another engine, now I have one for the truck as well i.e. this one is better suited for the blower. It's a 1998 industrial 12-valve suggested earlier in the thread by several members. It used to be a fire pump in a factory, they pulled it for unknown reasons. It gives me the flywheel housing that I want as well as more power (208hp@2100). I've never seen one of these and have a dozen or so pictures with questions but first things first.

It has a custom cooling system shown on this picture, and I need to hook it up to a hose before any extended running beyond a few seconds. The reason I need extended testing is the presence of some questionable sounding coughs above idle, could be nothing, or more.



I presume the upper arrow shows the outlet and the bottom ones the inlet line. What I do NOT know is how it's made inside, it appears strange (to me) that the inlet should be right next to the outlet unless there is more elaborate internal piping.

Once I get the cooling done I'll need to set up an oil pressure indicator but only if I cannot get the provided one to work (a later topic).

While on cooling, the existing system will have to be removed because it's water based and would freeze up in winter. If I use just coiled piping instead of a radiator (or a radiator) then the jacketted approach will not be needed.

 

[aczlan]

Re: Snow PUMP [engine #2]

Just bagged another engine, now I have one for the truck as well i.e. this one is better suited for the blower. It's a 1998 industrial 12-valve suggested earlier in the thread by several members. It used to be a fire pump in a factory, they pulled it for unknown reasons. It gives me the flywheel housing that I want as well as more power (208hp@2100). I've never seen one of these and have a dozen or so pictures with questions but first things first.

It has a custom cooling system shown on this picture, and I need to hook it up to a hose before any extended running beyond a few seconds. The reason I need extended testing is the presence of some questionable sounding coughs above idle, could be nothing, or more.

View attachment 516298

I presume the upper arrow shows the outlet and the bottom ones the inlet line. What I do NOT know is how it's made inside, it appears strange (to me) that the inlet should be right next to the outlet unless there is more elaborate internal piping.

Once I get the cooling done I'll need to set up an oil pressure indicator but only if I cannot get the provided one to work (a later topic).

While on cooling, the existing system will have to be removed because it's water based and would freeze up in winter. If I use just coiled piping instead of a radiator (or a radiator) then the jacketted approach will not be needed.

That appears to be a water to water heat exchanger such as would be used on a engine on a boat so that you run your lake or river water through the small pipes that you have identified as in and out and then your coolant runs through the larger pipes. If you were to look inside the long tube there is probably a U-shaped piece of copper pipe with fins on it that goes from the inlet to the outlet and is surrounded by the engine coolant.

Aaron Z