Snow Attachments Snow PUMP

fitterski · Jul 23, 2017

Re: Snow PUMP [engine #2 ]

aczlan said:
That appears to be a water to water heat exchanger such as would be used on a engine on a boat so that you run your lake or river water through the small pipes that you have identified as in and out and then your coolant runs through the larger pipes. If you were to look inside the long tube there is probably a U-shaped piece of copper pipe with fins on it that goes from the inlet to the outlet and is surrounded by the engine coolant.Aaron Z

I uploaded a 2mb picture, don't know where it got so small. I know about the water2water detail, and you gotta be right about the finned loop or coil inside, it just wouldn't make sense any other way. I'll get some plumbing fittings tomorrow, remove the rack with all the valves and connect a hose, planning to choke outflow with a sprinkler nozzle to keep it 'not more than just warm'. I need to warm the engine up to see if cold coughing above idle is temp. related.

pmsmechanic · Jul 23, 2017

That's a heat exchanger. Just run your garden hose through it. That'll be lots of cooling to just let it run with no load.

Edited to add: I looked at the picture again. I wouldn't change too much on it. I'm thinking that if you ran antifreeze from your vehicle through the heat exchanger there would be more than enough cooling in winter.

The two "Y's" at the bottom are inline filters along with some pressure regulators. It looks like the valves are set up so that you can run water through either filter setup. If your going to test make sure you run water in at the bottom. That way the heat exchanger stays full of water.

leonz · Jul 24, 2017

You have a turbocharged engine there with straight water to water cooling substituting for the radiator and aftercooler.

You have two sets of ball valves and Y strainers there as well with the ball valve in the upper pipe loop removed, its best to check to see if it is closed or open before you go any further as the galleries are most likely empty of water to prevent it from freezing and cracking the block.

Your going to need a radiator and after cooler if you expect to use this engine.

fitterski · Jul 24, 2017

Thanks for the info, I already removed the plumbing rack so at least temporarily I'm just running a hose through the the jacket. Ultimately when on a snow blower the cooling might be less of a problem, keeping the preset setup with another prestone radiator on tyhe water-jacket primary side could be an idea but that's still far down the road. After about 10 minutes of idle there was nearly no increase in the draindown temperature but I figured that the engine was warm so I then tried to go above idle for a few minutes. I just uploaded about 250mb of temporary stuff to (view an image separately for much better res). I have to apologize for not having thought of reducing the file sizes, it's a looooooooooooong loading page, will fix that too tomorrow...

http://trixtar.org/temp-pub-buffer/2017-07-early-data/index.html

with initial id pictures and a short video. The engine seems to smoke too much at idle, and coughs and barks above idle but I don't hear any dramatic noises. I didn't feel good about pushing it at this stage. Funny how much less a video tells when you cannot see the smoke stack, I'll fix that tomorrow with a better video.

It's too early and my familiarity with this engine is zero, LOTS of questions remain. The injection pump is a lucas and I might have to learn to time those, one possibility is retarded timing but I have no idea if these lucas jobs can slip off-time like the p7100's can. I'll be trying to get spooled up on such issues tomorrow.

fitterski · Jul 31, 2017

Had the injectors tested today, 3 of 6 were waaaaay out leaking and dripping or even flowing like a hose at higher pressures , I don't know how that can be with an engine that has only 1300 hours. Anyway all 6 are going in for rebuild/replacement and I'll run the engine again when I get them back.

leonz · Aug 5, 2017

if the fuel was not filtered down to 2 micron this is the result.

fitterski · Aug 5, 2017

leonz said:
if the fuel was not filtered down to 2 micron this is the result.

With nozzle sizes upward of .010 I don't see how 5 micron particles would destroy an injector spray/mist pattern. The filter on it is a Baldwin BF788, the engine was in a Cascade factory as a firepump driver, possibly since new. I'm only guessing that if you raise the pressure high enough than even a 3/4" hole will produce a mist, so it would be intesting to know what the test pressures were as opposed to what they should have been but I didn't get that info. Those springs should certainly not weaken in 1300 hours so there again I'd be at a loss trying to finger out the issue.

BTW, don't the 2 micron filters require some workaround footwork involving flow and freezeing up?

KubotainNH · Oct 12, 2017

Any updates on this fitterski? Feeling pretty chilly out here in NH.

fitterski · Oct 12, 2017

KubotainNH said:
Any updates on this fitterski? Feeling pretty chilly out here in NH.

Busy with related subroutines such as engines, in fact for this next season I'm going to use the old rig as-is for it's 9th (i think) winter. I bagged 2 Cummins 12-valves one of which will go to snow blowing next year. One is a 208hp one that's in pretty good shape except for some mysterious bug (can't link off hand but you'll find it under my handle on this forum), the other one is a 175hp truck survivor that just went to the machine shop for some work. BOTH are low-timers and generally in A1 condition so I'm very happy and confident in the 'power-plant' department.

Once I have commited to one of the engines (likely to be the automotive one after all) I'll decide about the first platform to attempt it on. My son insists I should stick with the existing rig (it's more exotic than some 'truck'). Concurrently I wrapped myself around a novel 3-point idea to make truck use less involved i.e. not necessarily requiring a dedicated truck at all. It revolves around a 3-point interface that is actually ENTIRELY on the implement with its hydraulic cylinders and all and nothing more than 3 discrete *hard-points* on the truck (2 of them being the front hooks). I may need to relocate the radiator, maybe not even that. The idea would be to use my everyday truck in otherwise instant drop/pickup mode. If I go the truck route later, with reference to trucks that exist today, the RAM 3500 will be _it_. One look at that thing on my back underneath it convinced me.

So that's it in a nutshell, there WILL be more discussion this winter. I also got me a hydraulics expert to run to for some advice as that avenue hasn't been discounted either, not at all although it is pricey :laughing: