snow blade tilt?

[moeh1]

l'm slowly working towards putting an old truck plow on in place of the bucket on the front loader. It can be angled using the hydraulic cylinders or manually if I pulled them off. I'm on the fence about tilt, talk me into or out of it... I currently have another light blade clamp mounted to the bucket, so it sits farther out front, and I can't use tilt without losing steering on the front end even with chains. I don't have a spare hydraulic, so that's another bridge to cross.

 

[rtm038]

Snow plows have 4 movements: angle right, angle left, raise and lower. By "tilt", which type of movement do you mean?

Ryan

 

[moeh1]

Sorry I wasn't clear, I meant angle right and left. The loader frame would permit up and down. I've gotten used to straight plowing with the current clamp on the bucket setup, wondering if folks really use the angle function much and if it really alllows steering with the plow closer to the tractor. I spent alot of time making my current setup angle and it was a waste of time....

 

[nybirdman]

I have power angle on my FEL mounted plow:manual angle would be better than none at all.I plow 1/2 mile road..impossible without an angle function.
Loss of steering has a lot of factors,width of plow,amount of snow,weight of your tractor ect.My tractor weighs 7000lbs and pushes a eight ft.plow.Keep as close as you can and still be able to angle.

 

[rtm038]

Oh, ok got it. If you can, I would have some type of angling ability, especially if you're plowing good distances.

Ryan

 

[Ford850]

I had a plow with manual angle adjustment, and I changed the angle occasionally. then I upgraded and my plow has hydrualic angle adjustment and I use it all the time. I'm much more productive with it. There's no way I could plow with no angle adjustment.

 

[GPintheMitten]

You could mount it with manual angle now and upgrade later to hydraulic angle. Didn't the original truck plow have angle capibility?

 

[moeh1]

Yes, I absolutely could do the manual angle, but don't want to do anything now that I'd regret later. I even wondered about tying the 2 cylinder hoses together thru a valve and using the hydraulic cylinders to hold it at a certain angle. I saw a previosu thread where they mounted the plow pretty close and had the cylinders coming back under their quick hitch bracket. Eventually I'd have to pull my bucket and mock this up on my machine but I let the summer get the best of me, so its one more year with the clamp on plow while I gather more ideas.

 

[slowzuki]

You can't run the pair of single acting cyl off a normal remote anyways. I pinned mine as a manual angle. You get used to it, end up not angling. I came from a truck so it was irritating at first, then I would turn the snowblower on and forget about it!

 

[DK35vince]

You can't run the pair of single acting cyl off a normal remote anyways.

It does work off a rear remote valve.
I have my plow with 2 single acting cylinders plugged into a rear remote valve and it works fine.

 

[jeffmac]

It does work off a rear remote valve.
I have my plow with 2 single acting cylinders plugged into a rear remote valve and it works fine.

I sure hope so I just bought a used 72 inch bobcat plow with 2 sa cylinders and am banking that it works on my dk40se rears. Hopefully I receive it this week...

 

[JasG]

Our plow at work has 2 single acting cylinders. It is mounted on the front of of a backhoe which has remoted on the front just like a tractor has on the back. Works just fine.

 

[moeh1]

I can't add a standard "remote kit", my B2150 was built before they thought CUT owners would actually do any hydraulic work with them.... Ill have to tap in on the power beyond side of my loader valve. It always was on my long range project list, but until now didn't have an actual use. From peoples experiences, it sounds more like I'd actually use if if I had it, could live without it if I don't like I am now. I'm not giving up that easily will take a better look at stuff this weekend. I went back and looked again at 4Shorts and Kubota Tees setup, that really looks like a great approach.

 

[DK35vince]

A front blade isn't much better than just using the bucket if you can't angle it. So manual angle is a whole lot better than not be able to angle at all.
Power angle would be a lot better yet.

 

[rayclar]

This is my set up controlled from rear remotes and it works great, manual angle would be a pain.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I could not do the plowing that I do in without the hydraulic angle function. Ok, I could but it would take 3 times as long easy. No way I would live without it.

Chris

 

[jimmysisson]

Rayclar's is the bees knees, since it keeps the blade close-in. Plus it's beautifully done.
My 8' Fisher hangs off a modified truck A-frame setup welded to the Ford quick-attach. Power angle works fine off the rear remotes with 2 s/a cyls. Speeds up plowing over manual angle at least 2x. Steering is fine. I keep a heavy Gannon box on the back and weight distribution is good. I'd guess my setup weights 6500# or so, R1 tires. YMMV with a lighter rig.
Jim

 

[CJBOTA]

My front blade has 6 movements, angle left, amgle right, rais, lower, tilt up, and tilt down. It is brand new and I haven't used it yet but I was wondering about the tilt up and down. I was planning on starting out with the skid shoes square to the ground but I was wondering if there were any pluses to running on the toes or heels of the skid shoes. I have it set with the shoes square I have a 1/2" of ground clearance at the blade. ( gravel Drive ) As i tilt down it has less clearance and tilt up for more clearance. I am guessing having the shoes square with the ground is best. Any advice?

 

[4shorts]

Marty. You'll need a way to change the angle of your snow plow either by hydrilics or manually. It's a must do in order to get the full benefit of the blade. When I built my conversion I added two rear shoes to the system so the rear of the attachment couldn't dig into the ground which is a nice feature.
I'm not a fan of swinging a chain from these blades because you loose your down pressure then and considering I plow on paved parking lots 99% of the time I need that down pressure.
One other thing you could consider if you wanted to avoid your power angle issues would be to convert your blade into a snow pusher. You'd just need to add sides to the blade and man they can move a lot of snow. That will be my next project actually. Might be something that would work better for you.

That being said. I has over 300 hours plowing commercially with my set up and there's nothing I would change on it. My buddy "Kubota Tee" went by my design and really likes it. Done right, a properly fitted snow plow can move a lot of snow efficiently and fast. Good luck

Paul


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/131136-snow-plow-adapted-front-end.html

 

[Ford850]

My front blade has 6 movements, angle left, amgle right, rais, lower, tilt up, and tilt down. It is brand new and I haven't used it yet but I was wondering about the tilt up and down. I was planning on starting out with the skid shoes square to the ground but I was wondering if there were any pluses to running on the toes or heels of the skid shoes. I have it set with the shoes square I have a 1/2" of ground clearance at the blade. ( gravel Drive ) As i tilt down it has less clearance and tilt up for more clearance. I am guessing having the shoes square with the ground is best. Any advice?

I use the tilt on mine to go from shoes to blade. I tilt it back to get the blade up as it rides on the shoes for most work including the gravel drive. But I can also tilt it down/forward to get the blade contact so I can scrape the concrete portion of the drive clean.