SMALL TREES

[flINTLOCK]

I'm planning to open up a new trail to access a food plot that will hopefully be cleared by end of summer. I have read several similar threads, but still have questions. The trees I need to remove are small birch and scrub oak up to 3 " diameter. We could just chainsaw them at ground level, but will have trouble discing for several years with stubs remaining. Besides the # of chains we'll dull cutting dirt. Alternatively, I could try pushing them over to expose roots for grappling. I wonder whether factory bucket without additional reinforcement will be bent in process?? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Havoctec]

I made a road about 400' long that needed many trees taken out that diameter and smaller using a JD 4310 430 loader and their heavy duty bucket. It worked like a charm accept for the one white oak. It was imposible to get out and was only about 2 1/2" at the base.

So, I think you will have a very hard time with the oaks but you should be able to push over the rest and curl them out with the bucket.

 

[Oleozz]

The biggest problem I've had has been with the locust. Even ones as small as 3 inches are tough to deal with. As mentioned by Havotcec the oak could be a problem, the birch should be easier. I haven't found a toothbar to do much good because of the large amount of dirt that it digs out, if you can get a good grip with the grapple you might be in luck. I've never bent my bucket doing that type of work and I wouldn't consider it super heavy duty.

 

[ToadHill]

Cut the trees about 4 ft from the base. Paint the stumps with roundup full strength just after you cut, this will kill the roots quickly and stop the roots from sprouting. After a season or two you will be able to push them over with the bucket on your tractor.

 

[flINTLOCK]

Thank you all for your comebacks. Would like to get this trail/road into pasture mix this summer followed by clover next year when lime effects kick in. Need to get it cleared this spring. May have to rent a dozer and use grapple for cleanup. Thanks

 

[flINTLOCK]

Does anyone use pallet forks to dig out trees??

 

[CurlyDave]

Does anyone use pallet forks to dig out trees??

Have never tried that.

My 4-n-1 bucket works pretty well. If the tree is short I can lower the open bucket over it, clamp down on it & lift it out.

If the tree is 10' to ~15' tall, I can approach the tree offset to one side, lift the brake lock and by using one brake swivel the open bucket to one side or the other, which will push the tree down until it pops up between the open bucket. Lower, clamp & lift.

 

[bjcsc]

Why wouldn't you use your root grapple?

 

[dillo99]

I have done a lot of trails and removed more scrub trees than I care to remember. Some ways I have done it:

1. Cut off the larger trees close to the ground as you suggest - bush hog the rest (1-1.5"). This works great for trails, as you point out not ideal for a field you want to disk.

2. Use the loader to push over the trees and pluck them out. This is time consuming but it works. Is most effective when the ground is as wet as possible without causing mud problems. The downside is that this creates lots of holes and uneven ground. Also, be careful of backing up over partially removed trees - they can wreak havoc on your underbelly.

3. use a chain or something to pull the trees out. Also very effective on small trees but not real convenient - you will get on/off the tractor for every tree.

The best solution as toadhill suggests is time. I have spent many hours trying to get green stumps out of the ground. If I leave them for a year or two they pop right out with very little effort.

The Dozer sounds like a very attractive option to me if you want this done quick.

 

[bjcsc]

The best solution as toadhill suggests is time. I have spent many hours trying to get green stumps out of the ground. If I leave them for a year or two they pop right out with very little effort.

The Dozer sounds like a very attractive option to me if you want this done quick.

You guys realize he's talking about trees that are 3 inches in diameter, right? A dozer?

 

[jmc]

CurlyDave's technique ought to handle those small trees if you could somehow grab the trunks with your root grapple. I have a WR Long grapple and have been thinking about making a bolt-on accessory for jobs where the standard tooth spacing is too wide. This accessory would be nothing more than a steel cross bar that connects the tines, near their tips, for the grapple's central 2 feet or so. (both jaws) My interest would be for picking up small, flat rocks and for dragging out trees and logs from narrow access areas. I might post this idea on the "build it yourself" forum to see if anyone else has tried it.

John

 

[frank_f15]

Cut the trees about 4 ft from the base. Paint the stumps with roundup full strength just after you cut, this will kill the roots quickly and stop the roots from sprouting. After a season or two you will be able to push them over with the bucket on your tractor.

Wen you say PAINT THE STUMP with roundup do you mean just the fresh cut or entire stump?

 

[rjgogo]

I have taken out hundreds of Russian Olive trees using the bucket on my small tractor, they come out so fast the only problem I have is getting them out of the way to pull out more. One other method that works pretty well is a chain snatch attaned to my winch on my jeep, that is the method I use for hills where I can't use the tractor. The smaller ones pop right out. It does leave a lot of holes when you use the bucket. The winch actually does much less damage but it is more work. Don't know how well the chain would work for less bushy trees. You can also put the chain over an old rim so it has some up force.

 

[ChuckinNH]

I have taken out hundreds of Russian Olive trees using the bucket on my small tractor, they come out so fast the only problem I have is getting them out of the way to pull out more. One other method that works pretty well is a chain snatch attaned to my winch on my jeep, that is the method I use for hills where I can't use the tractor. The smaller ones pop right out. It does leave a lot of holes when you use the bucket. The winch actually does much less damage but it is more work. Don't know how well the chain would work for less bushy trees. You can also put the chain over an old rim so it has some up force.

Do you use a toothbar? How little is your tractor?

 

[rjgogo]

Do you use a toothbar? How little is your tractor?

the tractor is a JD 2305, the winch is a 8274 Warn. No toothbar needed as I have some sandy soil. the winch is an 8000 pound winch with double that with the snatch block.

 

[ChuckinNH]

the tractor is a JD 2305, the winch is a 8274 Warn. No toothbar needed as I have some sandy soil. the winch is an 8000 pound winch with double that with the snatch block.

Thanks for the info. It is really surprising what these scuts can do, and how very versitile they are! The winch info is interesting too as I had thought about getting something like that when I had the BX. I may still end up with another tractor that size.

 

[flINTLOCK]

I haven't figured out best way to use grapple for standing trees. If small enough to bend to the side, could certainly grapple them up and out. Course that would probably be limited to under 3 inches, I guess.

 

[bjcsc]

I haven't figured out best way to use grapple for standing trees. If small enough to bend to the side, could certainly grapple them up and out. Course that would probably be limited to under 3 inches, I guess.

You can get the bigger ones, too. I'll try to describe the way I do it. Open the grapple all the way and raise it up to about 5 or 6' from the ground, roll it so it's perpendicular to the ground. Drive it directly into the tree you want to pull out, dead center. The top and bottom jaw tips should both be in contact with the tree. Push the tree away from you just a little by driving forward. Now, roll the grapple (dump) until the tree begins to fold in half away from you and starts to break. You may or may not have to inch forward to keep the bottom jaw in contact. As it starts to break, start to close the jaw. You'll have to judge the timing, but when you get it right, you'll have the lower part of the tree and the upper part (upside down) still connected to each other (but broken) all in the jaw of the grapple. When you get it to that point, clamp down hard, curl the bucket, and then raise the loader. It will pull it right out of the ground, roots and all. Hopefully that makes sense...

 

[rjgogo]

Thanks for the info. It is really surprising what these scuts can do, and how very versitile they are! The winch info is interesting too as I had thought about getting something like that when I had the BX. I may still end up with another tractor that size.

The winch is on a lifted Jeep TJ (2000 Wrangler). It has 33s and is locked on both ends so I have a bit of an advantage there with traction. Your results will not be the same on a BX. ;-)

 

[ChuckinNH]

I'm sure you are right about that! I sold the BX, so I am open on tractor sizes right now. I've actually been thinking of getting something big enough to put a small logging winch on.