Show What Tool You Made*

   / Show What Tool You Made* #301  
Is a little unsure if it qualifies as a tool but it can certainly give someone a idea. Had a small project truing up a drum on a excavator, a piece of flat steel tacked to the machine to keep the grinder steady so I get correct diameter to fit new sprocket wheel.

 
   / Show What Tool You Made* #302  
Thought ya'll would enjoy this. Pops came up with his back in 1999, been using ever since. Perfect for lining up round stock of wood, metal, etc for placing a straight hole or pass thru to the other side in alignment 20140827_185921.jpg20140827_185921.jpg20140827_185926.jpg
 
   / Show What Tool You Made* #303  
Thought ya'll would enjoy this. Pops came up with his back in 1999, been using ever since. Perfect for lining up round stock of wood, metal, etc for placing a straight hole or pass thru to the other side in alignment

Is your goal to drill the wood or the steel rod?
 
   / Show What Tool You Made* #304  
This go round, I was drilling the wood and the rod. The "Roller" is for a weaving loom. We found that using a 3/8 rod pressed in 4" on each end and pin with a 1/8 roll pin provided the best results. the metal "axil" will mount into the loom allowing free roll of the roller.
 
   / Show What Tool You Made* #305  
Was having trouble getting the outer end off of a cv axle on my 4 wheeler. Just slide the pipe over the axle, put the axle in a vise and give the rod a couple good taps with a hammer.
 

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   / Show What Tool You Made* #307  
or for those without welding ... a piece of 1 1/2 water pipe and a T fitting ... screw the pipe into the leg of the pipe and slip over the shaft ... bang on the pipe close to the fitting ....
 
   / Show What Tool You Made* #308  
1 1/2 would probably be too big. The fitting needs to be just big enough to go around the axle. Too big and you would be hitting on the cage( I don't know what it's actually called) and they are fairly fragile. But I guess that would ultimately depend on the axle size.

This is the hardest axle I've had to take apart so I don't know if a T would have worked. The 1st tool we made was closer to a 45* angle and it wouldn't break it loose.

Also this wasn't my idea. I saw a video on YouTube where a guy had a tool he had bought that was made for that. His looked to be heavier duty than what I built and it only went halfway around the axle. But I'm happy with the results I got with what I made.
 
   / Show What Tool You Made* #309  
pickle fork would work too ( for splitting ball joints ) driven at a steep angle .... those e-clips can be a pain

also try putting the joint in a vise , an old sledge head and then a pair of grips on the shaft... ( slide hammer style )

not meant to detract from your tool ( it works well doesn't it ?) , just tossing in other solutions ( pipe fittings could be sized to suite application )

sometimes ya just gotta work with what you have hanging around ( or can fab up quickly );)
 
   / Show What Tool You Made* #310  
I made up this little jewl at work a week or so ago. Doing body work on the boss' truck, welding in patch panels. My air chistle has a really neat off-set anvil attachment that is made for over-lap seams but it required about an inch of clearance on the back side of the sheetmetal. Where the inner cab corner comes out to meet the outter cab corner, it wouldn't fit. So, about 10 minutes later and a few scraps of metal, I made the anvil part that would fit in the tight spot, chucked up a dull-ish chistle, and finished the offset. Being 2 pc, it's a little more aqward to use, but it did what I wanted. More detail on my repairs can be seen in my thread 'F250 rust repairs'


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/318655-f250-rust-repairs.html


 

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