Show What Tool You Made*

[chim]

Poured a sidewalk on Friday. The forms were mostly thin plywood strips. I staked it with (many) pieces of 3/4" EMT and then used self-drilling screws from the inside of the forms. Figured the easiest way to strip them would be to smack the conduit so the screws would break loose and pull the conduit out with a big pump pliers.

It all worked out fine until the pulling part. I didn't have near enough strength to pull most of them. Next attempt was using an old Visegrip pliers. I removed the adjustment bolt and ran it through the last link of a piece of chain. Then I used the FEL to pull the pegs. MUCH better!

 

[chim]

I dug this out for grading some of the fill along the sidewalk. The fill ranged from at least a foot down to nothing at the other end. It is a large pipe flange welded to a couple pieces of beam. It originally was a simple drag that I'd use with a lift boom and drag with chains. Last year I added the flange for weight and there's a pin in the front that allows me to rotate and lock it.

Here are pics that show the original on a B7500 (and I can't figure out why it's a link instead of a thumbnail), and the current configuration on a Ford 1210:

 

[k0ua]

I dug this out for grading some of the fill along the sidewalk. The fill ranged from at least a foot down to nothing at the other end. It is a large pipe flange welded to a couple pieces of beam. It originally was a simple drag that I'd use with a lift boom and drag with chains. Last year I added the flange for weight and there's a pin in the front that allows me to rotate and lock it.

Here are pics that show the original on a B7500 (and I can't figure out why it's a link instead of a thumbnail), and the current configuration on a Ford 1210:

That setup on the Ford, looks pretty darn useful. And the setup on the B7500, sure is a unique way to have a chain drag, and be able to lift it too!:thumbsup: I would never have thought of that...cool.

 

[dieselcrawler]

I made a really long handle mini-wire brush... thoes are 9" tiles, its about 24" long. Used it to knock off paint inside some truck cab door jambs where heat from welding floor panels in had made it peel. Another stick with a sponge stapled to it became a paint brush to re-coat the bare metal.

 

[Sodo]

Welded threads together to make a 'holder stud' for the fittings on the angle grinder. It screws into the hole for the handle. I never use the handle on the 4 1/2" grinder. This is a Milwaukie, thds are 5/16-18, and 5/8-11.
DeWalt uses M8-1.25 and 5/8-11





Here's another good place to weld a holder.

 

[Botheyesopen]

I have my eyes on a section of rail that appears to have been abandoned next to a track locally. it looks to be 12'+ long, and has been laying there rusting for nigh on 2 years.

Does anyone have any idea about how much that long a piece of RR track would weigh in at?

If its straight, hang it under your truck. I moved a 32' 10 inch "H" beam with 6" flanges under a Ford F150 a few miles once. You gotta be very aware of grade changes...no stopping at the Kwik Mart on the way...

Also, all rail in the US is "closed cycle" meaning its never not railroad property, so if you take that piece, you are stealing it. Just FYI, I'm not judging, I might snag it myself, but be aware that justice is usually harsh and very unforgiving when the railroad is the victim and the have their own police force.

 

[RitchElbe]

Rails are 30lbs per foot. Pops worked the rails back in the day..when I was a teenager and wanted a weight set..he brought home a few 10ft pieces for me to "work out with".

 

[skyhook]

Rails are 30lbs per foot. Pops worked the rails back in the day..when I was a teenager and wanted a weight set..he brought home a few 10ft pieces for me to "work out with".

That sounds about right, a 4x4 inch solid square piece of metal weighs in at 50lbs per foot.

 

[Cpjlube]

Rails are 30lbs per foot. Pops worked the rails back in the day..when I was a teenager and wanted a weight set..he brought home a few 10ft pieces for me to "work out with".

Some rail is 30 lbs/ft. If you get near rail and have a tape measure, you will see there are numerous different sizes.
Mainline "high" rail is usually the largest, heaviest rail. Usually welded, ribbon rail, no bolted connections.
Smaller rail for sidings and small branches is different size.
I worked for a small RR construction company in Columbus, Ohio. They built and rebuilt sidings and maintained track. As a 19 year old novice, I was given the exciting task of organizing the fittings or adapters to connect two different kinds of rail. Trust me, there are is a dizzying array of differing styles and sizes. Think of how long some rail has been in place, manufacturers long gone and new improved designs.
Some of the nomenclature escapes me but I seem to remember many types of rail refered to by weight of a three foot stick. So a 30 lb/ft rail would be 90lb rail.
The RR experts on here will correct me.

 

[Kernopelli]

I dug this out for grading some of the fill along the sidewalk. The fill ranged from at least a foot down to nothing at the other end. It is a large pipe flange welded to a couple pieces of beam. It originally was a simple drag that I'd use with a lift boom and drag with chains. Last year I added the flange for weight and there's a pin in the front that allows me to rotate and lock it.

Here are pics that show the original on a B7500 (and I can't figure out why it's a link instead of a thumbnail), and the current configuration on a Ford 1210:

Using the pipe flange is brilliant! Nice, heavy ( and easy) way to make a locking pivot......great idea!!