Show What Tool You Made*

[Bison]

I build this tool some years ago, i call it the "axle saver"
I used it to crimp the threaded end of a stub shaft on a floating rear axle from a dodge 3500 back to round so the nut would fit again.
The nut had worked loose and the wheel and drive shaft where about to exit the axle and had buggered up the threaded end.
Only other alternative would've been a new axle.

 

[jwmorris]

An OTC 7402 outside thread chaser would have save you some time and will work on OD's from 1 1/4-5" with more than a dozen thread pitches.

I did have a shaft that lost too much off the major diameter of the thread once and built a nut much like yours out of a split set collar, so it was a locking nut, for the axle on an 8n.

 

[jwmorris]

An OTC 7402 outside thread chaser would have save you some time and will work on OD's from 1 1/4-5" with more than a dozen thread pitches.

I did have a shaft that lost too much off the major diameter of the thread once and built a nut much like yours out of a split set collar, so it was a locking nut, for the axle on an 8n.

 

[Bison]

An OTC 7402 outside thread chaser would have save you some time and will work on OD's from 1 1/4-5" with more than a dozen thread pitches.

I did have a shaft that lost too much off the major diameter of the thread once and built a nut much like yours out of a split set collar, so it was a locking nut, for the axle on an 8n.

A tread chaser would've been no good.
The threaded end was a 1/4 out of round and was split on the keeper key way.
With my tool i could squeeze it back to perfect.

 

[Bison]

An OTC 7402 outside thread chaser would have save you some time and will work on OD's from 1 1/4-5" with more than a dozen thread pitches.

I did have a shaft that lost too much off the major diameter of the thread once and built a nut much like yours out of a split set collar, so it was a locking nut, for the axle on an 8n.

A tread chaser would've been no good.
The threaded end was a 1/4 out of round and was split on the keeper key way.
With my tool i could squeeze it back to perfect.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Got my interest ... could you post how it works? thanks

I think this is a great tool so I try to help out.
The link with the pin is barely visable in the tool. You use the link to connect the two ends of your ice chains. With the two chain ends in the link you drive in the pin in against the tire to capture and connect the chain end links. The hard part is getting the pin backed out when you want to remove the chains. Tor Arne's tool is an anvil and a driver solidly connected together so you don't need three hands to hold hammer, pin driver, and an anvil all while you're trying to drive from the tire side out.

 

[Hirascomo]

I have made a couple recently, neither very complex, but maybe useful to someone out there.

The first, I modified a 17mm combination wrench so that I could bleed the air out the fuel lines to my MF253. The problem was that there was not enough clearance between the fuel line at the injectors and the engine casting to fit an open end wrench. I suppose MF must have a special tool recommended for this. After spending a few hours trying to bleed the fuel lines using alternate methods, I was at the point of having to remove everything above the engine....fuel tank (which is a bugger to remove on this model) sheet metal, turbo lines, etc to access the fuel line nuts from a possibly better angle.
I altered this wrench, and it worked beautifully. Bled the lines in 10 minutes and the tractor started again. I basically cut about a 1/4" slot in the end of the closed end of the 17mm wrench so that I could slip the wrench over the fuel line, then slid the wrench sideways (laterally to the fuel line) to engage the nut. This end of the wrench was small enough to fit between the nut and engine casting. The other problem, there was no clearance to move the wrench, so I cut off the open end side of the wrench which made the wrench handle much slimmer, which allowed me to make tiny strokes to loosen then re-tighten the fuel line nuts.




And the second tool is one that I have seen similar around and just made it to fit my needs. I needed to bury three runs of 10-2 direct burial wire to power a chicken coop, driveway gate opener, and green house. I read on TBN of guys using subsoilers to bury wire and pipe. So basically I just made a mini subsoiler that buries the wire about 8 inches below the surface. I bought a box blade shank from Agri Supply for about $ 20, and welded it to a 2 inch tube that fits into my 3 point receiver hitch. I don't have a pic of the finished part, but in addition to the pic below, there is a pvc conduit attached by zip ties to the holes in the shank. It inserts the wire into the ground as the shank digs the trench, so this device digs the trench and lays the wire at the same time. My longest run was about 200 feet and it probably took less than 15 minutes to dig and bury the wire. Before everyone lets me know that I did not bury my wire to code depth, which in my area is 3 feet, all I can say is "what wire?"

 

[BukitCase]

Just so you know, you just re-invented the flare nut wrench (if you're NOT a "toolaholic" like me, just ignore this :=)

Amazon.com: metric flare nut wrench: Tools & Home Improvement

They're also available in a "crowfoot" style, 6 or 12 point, etc (if you were to look in my tool box(es), you'd see why I'm aware of this factoid

BTW, in my book it still counts if you "invent" something that already exists, if you didn't know about it first :thumbsup: ... Steve

 

[beeforty]

Here is a link to a Proto set of 12 point "Crowfoot" wrenches. This style is a little deeper than a normal flare nut wrench, like a socket cut down and a square drive attached. These are pricey but it gives the idea of what to look for at the flea market etc. Crowfoot Wrench Sets | MSCDirect.com They also work great for reaching in with an extension in deep tight places.

 

[Hirascomo]

Bukit and Bee, Thank you guys for the links and info. Leave it to me to be the guy that tries to reinvent the wheel or in this case the wrench. I sacrificed a cheap import wrench, and the mod took me about 5 minutes so no big loss there, but if I would have known ahead of time that this type of wrench was available, I would have saved a couple of days of racking my brain trying to figure out how to loosen the fuel line. I appreciate the info !

 

[BukitCase]

Always glad to help a fellow TBN'er figure out new and better ways to spend HIS money

My older tractors all seem to be made with the idea that you can never have too much frustration, nor too many tools - only way I've found to bleed fuel lines on a couple of mine is a crowfoot like beeforty's link with a 10" extension and a SHORT handled FLEX ratchet.

Hydraulics on a backhoe can be even more of a challenge - not only are they really close together, they're TIGHT. Great combination ...Steve

 

[bcp]

Buy or make sockets for those tight spaces, based on this idea:

sensor/injector sockets

Bruce

 

[3930dave]

Bukit and Bee, Thank you guys for the links and info. Leave it to me to be the guy that tries to reinvent the wheel or in this case the wrench. I sacrificed a cheap import wrench, and the mod took me about 5 minutes so no big loss there, but if I would have known ahead of time that this type of wrench was available, I would have saved a couple of days of racking my brain trying to figure out how to loosen the fuel line. I appreciate the info !

Even if you are where a tool-truck delivers, plenty of pros do these mods all the time. You end up making better money modding a low cost wrench, than waiting for a tool to arrive to clear a vehicle off a hoist.

The way I look at it, if the job gets done, and you don't have to call 911, then anything is fair game ! :thumbsup:

Rgds, D.

 

[sixdogs]

Bending wrenches with heat for a specific use is the perfect application of a Harbor Freight wrench. I have a few I bent for one-time uses that wound up becoming tools I used frequently. With Harbor Freight a mistake is no big expense.

 

[RitchElbe]

MAN o MAN this thing would be awesome for cleaning shop floors after working with metal.. turn on to clean and off to clean it off!

 

[RitchElbe]

THE BEST thing for cleaning your hands after doing anything!! Centronella Oil..yep that stuff they put in tiki lanterns. I've used it for years.. In fact..I keep a 2.5 gallon bucket outside the shop just for that purpose. I've used the same oil for 4 years now..looks nasty..but man does it still clean..when time to renew it. I pour the used out into a container I use for burning brush etc.. keeps hands soft and bugs away too! just stay away from open flames while cleaning with it! Safety First~

 

[jhlittle]

MAN o MAN this thing would be awesome for cleaning shop floors after working with metal.. turn on to clean and off to clean it off!

What would?

 

[RitchElbe]

I was replying to the magnet posted on here...dunno why it showed up at the end.. most of the time my replies show up twice as well

 

[rasorbackq]

I was replying to the magnet posted on here...dunno why it showed up at the end.. most of the time my replies show up twice as well

Your reply will always show up at the end . If it didn't then your reply wouldn't be see as we are long past it.
Reply with quote puts a statement to the answer you give.

 

[RitchElbe]

that's the thing. I replied late at night and actually went back to the page a few times and I was right after the post about the magnet..then it was moved..but its all good