shop door, needs replacement,

[BHD]

You already have all the hardware for an overhead door. Why don't you replace/build new panels using your old hardware?

I may do that,
but nearly every thing is shot, all rollers need replacement, springs need replaced, panels (fiberglass is cracked in many panels), about three of the frames have bent, parts, the hinges are questionable, the pulleys are wore out, the cable is in need of replacement, about the only thing that is not bad may be the track,

approx 20 years ago I bought two doors that had been taken out of a local business, and bought them both for $35, I took the best door (panels) which was the wider of the two, height about the same, the best track, and best rollers and so on and assembled one door that worked but well used at that, even when I first installed it I had to cut some sections of fiberglass and patch over holes in the door I choose to use,

the simple is it is wore out, and not just a little wore out but really wore out, and needs replaced IMO, and I do not replace some thing just because it is not new, I usually end up working on it about every few weeks to keep it functional, (meaning to be able to open it up and shut it),

and for some reason I really do not see it logical to spend maybe 30% to 50% of a new door to fix a shot door, that when fixed still won't seal and will need replacing in a few years any way.

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and the track is the 2" track for very light weight doors so if I made new panels the weight would most likely be much heavier, and then even with new rollers and parts and pieces, I am not even sure the track would be heavy enough to do the job, (I most likely can do one panel but not three or four,

 

[BHD]

Nice door, but I wonder how a 15mph wind would affect when opening or when open.

At a place I worked years ago that had some large very heavy doors. They were all posted
with signs warning NOT to open if the wind speed was over 10 mph. These doors are much
heavier than what you are looking at though, way north of 10 tons and they were hinged
on the side not at the top. If one of them were to get caught by a strong gust, there would
be no stopping it. Still I wonder how these doors with a much lighter frame would hold up.
I guess you just don't open them up in bad WX. It would be easy to add a man door and
windows though.

from what I read the manufactures do not say that wind is much of a factor, on the larger doors are made similar to what a heavy farm implement frame would be made out of , (the one that was put up on the business that my son works at, is a 3x6 1/4 wall tube, and the frame work that is attached to the building is very heavy, I think the door was 20 some feet wide, and about the same height, and in our area if you had to have less than 10 mph winds you would only open it a few times a year, as having wind under 10 mph is seldom,

and my guess is that because it is a flat panel that basically stays horizontal it is not as subject to the wind as some thing that is vertical and can have a cross wind that can catch it, different having a 10' by 20' foot swing door than and edge of 6"x 20'.

It is like carrying a piece of ply wood on a windy day, if vertical with the flat facing the wind you end up on your butt,
but if it is carry on edge and down wind you can move it in a very strong wind. not saying that the wind is not a factor but I think that is partly why cables are not used, and only solid hydraulic cylinders.

 

[travis potter]

Some day I will figer out how to post pics. For now I built my doors for my shop. The opening is 12' X 12' 2 doors 6' X 12' i used 2x2 tubing 14ga 2 sides top and bottom with 4 cross braces the doors fit on the shop floor with clearence and the tin fits in the 2 in drop for the wall tin this seals the bottom. I work on comerical walk doors so I had a bunch of 4 1/2 in hinges I put 6 on each door no sag swing good and I can open 1 or both. I secure them with drop pins in the slab and a heavy chain and lock around the center of the doors. There is no lock on the outside. I used the same tin on the doors as on the sides when they are closed it looks like a wall. Hope this helps.

 

[BHD]

what I have chosen to do, (the insurance company choose to decline my claim on the door) If the damage would have been done mechanically they would have covered it, but since it was an animal it was not covered, the animal was never supposed to be in the building in the first place but that did not matter,

any way I found another panel it is narrower but I will build out a set of ends and mount the shorter panel in the ends and replace the springs with a torsion spring system, no it will not be a new door but most likely a better working door for a few years, the cost quoted to me for the springs from a local door man, said under $200 for the torsion spring system, and on the Net just the replacement extension springs like I have would cost me $82 each or $164 plus shipping, so the torsion spring system sounds like to me the way to upgrade the door,

also, I will replace the rollers, and patch the other panels some.

and I hope to make the bottom panel into a break away panel, Patent US5584333 - Releasable panel for overhead door - Google Patents

or about mid way down the page,
Edwards Door Systems Limited - Strip Doors

If I would have had some thing like this in the first place would not have a problem,

I have an idea on a lock that would lock the bottom section solid when closed, by a moving rocking lock that works when the door and the latch hits the floor, by rocking into a slot on the panel,

and the panel held in place up either spring loaded, pins with rollers, Abbey Trading 081368 HD SPRING LOADED GATE WHEEL

or a hose type seal, in two channels or angle irons set at a 45 degree angle with some space between, with a soft hose that would seal and yet soft enough to allow it to slip out if hit.

or even just use a few plastic bolts or a few zip ties,

as the bottom panel would be secured by the rocking locks on the edges of the door when closed,

that is my current plan,