m1garand762
Gold Member
I have an everything attachments extreme 60 it’s built like a brick crapper and I use and abuse it and it had never let me down. I cut 3-4 inch brush with it
All you need for annual rotary mower maintenance is a few wrenches, a vacuum powered oil evacuator, a laser thermometer and a cordless grease gun . Less than $250 for everything.I’ll have to try that
I’m still not comfortable with the slip clutch adjustment given the bell shield being in the way. Finger tight plus 3/4 turn? Yeah right. Maybe easy if all was clean shiny and new.All you need for annual rotary mower maintenance is a few wrenches, a vacuum powered oil evacuator, a laser thermometer and a cordless grease gun . Less than $250 for everything.
Is there not a drain plug for the oil in the gearboxAll you need for annual rotary mower maintenance is a few wrenches, a vacuum powered oil evacuator, a laser thermometer and a cordless grease gun . Less than $250 for everything.
I think it really depends on your soil. Mine is heavy clay, limestone & lots of rocks. Sheer pins do what they are supposed to do and break before you damage something. Clutches may cost a bit more and they do accomplish the same goal of not allowing something more expensive to break, but in the end (for me anyway), the extra cost is worth it. As I said in the initial post, those pins have a tendency of breaking at the most inopportune time (at least on my property).Didn’t know sheer pins were that bad
HahaI think it really depends on your soil. Mine is heavy clay, limestone & lots of rocks. Sheer pins do what they are supposed to do and break before you damage something. Clutches may cost a bit more and they do accomplish the same goal of not allowing something more expensive to break, but in the end (for me anyway), the extra cost is worth it. As I said in the initial post, those pins have a tendency of breaking at the most inopportune time (at least on my property).
Do I push the limit of my implements? Yeah, probably - what do you mean that PHD isn't supposed to use a 24" auger, it fits, doesn't it?![]()
I see titan products everywhere never used one thoughTitan Implement (not Titan Attachments)
I've got several titans (palletforks.com), 1 yd 3p hyd dump bucket, light duty forks & add ones, e.g., augers, flail hammers, etc, they get the job done and are considerably less expensive. If you do go with them for things, stay away from the "Bucket mounted" items e.g., forks etc. I know there is a whole thread on these kinds of things, but for me, they've never worked very well and are a real waste of money!I see titan products everywhere never used one though
I’ve look at their claw attachments for a skid steer good to know to avoid themI've got several titans (palletforks.com), 1 yd 3p hyd dump bucket, light duty forks & add ones, e.g., augers, flail hammers, etc, they get the job done and are considerably less expensive. If you do go with them for things, stay away from the "Bucket mounted" items e.g., forks etc. I know there is a whole thread on these kinds of things, but for me, they've never worked very well and are a real waste of money!
Bush hogs are super heavy dutyI have a 13 year old 6’ Bush Hog Squealer it is quite a bush hog. It has a two part rubber clutch and a shear pin.
When we first bought the farm the prior owner said there was a deep well some place on the farm, could not remember where. I found it, it went between the 1” thick forks on the root rake, running along the ground, right into the bush hog, a 2” galvanized with a 1 1/4” inside that cut both pipes half way, completely through side to side, shut the tractor off. Not a chip, dent or bend. Dug around the well, cut the double pipes off with a cordless saws all, buried it up.
On natural stuff, it cuts and smashes up to 3” or so stuff just like a bush hog should. It also mows grass.
I would add a 1 1/2” angle iron reinforcement around the outer edge. So you do not need a handy stump to straighten the edge out on.
NOT all the models are, some are quite light duty.Bush hogs are super heavy duty
You think a 32 hp ford could pull that
Yeah, trueNOT all the models are, some are quite light duty.
SR
I’ll look into thoseTheir MX5 would be a better match for a Ford 1910. It isn't as heavy as a CX, which comes only as a 15 or 20 foot batwing. It is north of 800 pounds and a relatively stout cutter for a compact tractor though. I have an MX6 and apart from replacing a broken bolt on the mast, I have used it quite a bit and it's been a good cutter.
There was also an HX in the Deere lineup, which is between a MX and a CX (medium, heavy, commercial). There is an HX-6 which runs on 40HP. There is also the smaller Frontier RC lineup.Their MX5 would be a better match for a Ford 1910. It isn't as heavy as a CX, which comes only as a 15 or 20 foot batwing. It is north of 800 pounds and a relatively stout cutter for a compact tractor though. I have an MX6 and apart from replacing a broken bolt on the mast, I have used it quite a bit and it's been a good cutter.
I’m not sure the OP could even run the HX-6 without a struggle and the MX would surely rattle bolts loose on his tractor.There was also an HX in the Deere lineup, which is between a MX and a CX (medium, heavy, commercial). There is an HX-6 which runs on 40HP. There is also the smaller Frontier RC lineup.
Cutters and Shredders | Medium & Heavy-Duty Rotary Cutters | John Deere US
Rotary Cutters from John Deere and Frontier. Learn about the features, specifications and more for medium and heavy-duty rotary cutters, and flex wing rotary cutters.www.deere.com